author
1Instructables1,504Views2CommentsJoined February 21st, 2017
An artist, tech enthusiast, and computer programmer with a variety of cosplay prop making experience. Currently working with Eclectic Elathera making a variety of interesting geek art and cosplay items.

Achievements

  • Hack Disney's Made With Magic Products to Power a LED Skirt

    Soldering at that point and skipping the resistor should work fine since there is a resistor on the MWM board anyway. Skipping the resistor on the WMW board was really to try and keep the LED's at the same current as much as possible. One thing I noticed was you can start losing some of the combined colors if you drop the current down (splitting the LED too many times or adding in too large a resistor). Most colors will show up fine, but some of the combined colors (e.g. purple) will lose a color (usually red I think) and turn out wrong.The problem was the old bow having just printed circuit contact points which tear off the board with the slightest pressure. My ideal with the current tech would actually be to use the Mickey Ears which have two flat cables going to IR receiver &...

    see more »

    Soldering at that point and skipping the resistor should work fine since there is a resistor on the MWM board anyway. Skipping the resistor on the WMW board was really to try and keep the LED's at the same current as much as possible. One thing I noticed was you can start losing some of the combined colors if you drop the current down (splitting the LED too many times or adding in too large a resistor). Most colors will show up fine, but some of the combined colors (e.g. purple) will lose a color (usually red I think) and turn out wrong.The problem was the old bow having just printed circuit contact points which tear off the board with the slightest pressure. My ideal with the current tech would actually be to use the Mickey Ears which have two flat cables going to IR receiver & LED's, replace that FFC with one running to a custom board that could be mounted on top of the MWM board kind of like an Arduino shield. That way nothing has to be unsoldered from the MWM board, and if you got the custom board printed it would look very clean.The DIY board will make things a lot easier if it ever goes to full production, but I agree on the 12v issues. While 12v LED string lights aren't any harder to come by (even finding 5v "dumb" rgb string lights required buying direct from China), I would miss the simplicity of the simple cell phone battery pack. You can pick up a 20kmaH battery pack for ~$25 from Amazon and then just get the correct USB to power connector. You can also get the Fuel Rods that they have around the parks now and be able to power your custom MWM gear forever. An equivalent lipo battery in 12v would cost a ton of money and have all the special charging needs that lipo batteries do.

    View Instructable »
    • Hack Disney's Made With Magic Products to Power a LED Skirt
      866 views
      9 favorites
      4 comments
  • Hack Disney's Made With Magic Products to Power a LED Skirt

    In my first couple attempts at this I actually removed the LED and soldered directly to the contact points there. That was to remove the light and power consumption of that LED, however contacts proved to be too fragile and afterwords I have soldered on the MSP430 side of the resistors. The pictures are just a bit old (even the Minnie bow doesn't really exist anymore). My ideal would be to find an appropriate cable to connect using the two ribbons on the Mickey ears. That would allow the IR sensor to be moved as well as removing the need to solder to the board.As for the 5V, it was never something I really looked into, but knowing it can handle it does simplify things a bit. If you have a switched 5v battery pack you can even make the switch permanently "on" for the MWM b...

    see more »

    In my first couple attempts at this I actually removed the LED and soldered directly to the contact points there. That was to remove the light and power consumption of that LED, however contacts proved to be too fragile and afterwords I have soldered on the MSP430 side of the resistors. The pictures are just a bit old (even the Minnie bow doesn't really exist anymore). My ideal would be to find an appropriate cable to connect using the two ribbons on the Mickey ears. That would allow the IR sensor to be moved as well as removing the need to solder to the board.As for the 5V, it was never something I really looked into, but knowing it can handle it does simplify things a bit. If you have a switched 5v battery pack you can even make the switch permanently "on" for the MWM board and just use the battery pack to switch the entire setup.

    View Instructable »