MolecularD

Thank you for an interesting suggestion. I looked Nomorob up and learned that it (currently) works only on VoIP lines. Hence, creating the "first ring killer" would be a whole new project which would be, I suspect, quite different from this Instructable that works on POTS lines...

This should not be much of a problem, since the same reference design, MAXREFDES#117, should work with MAX30101. According to MAXIM: https://maximintegratedsupport.force.com/support/s...the only modification is an additional green LED that may need to be connected. Now, the ease of hardware design does not compare to the complexity of a new application you (probably) have in mind: monitoring HR/SpO2 during exercise, right? Wrist mount and huge motion artifacts pose significant problems and my code is not designed to deal with these. An additional accelerometer is required to compensate, at somewhat, for this additional noise. Fortunately, MAXIM offers such a kit that you may want to consider:https://datasheets.maximintegrated.com/en/ds/MAX30...https://www.maximintegrated.com/en/products...

This should not be much of a problem, since the same reference design, MAXREFDES#117, should work with MAX30101. According to MAXIM: https://maximintegratedsupport.force.com/support/s...the only modification is an additional green LED that may need to be connected. Now, the ease of hardware design does not compare to the complexity of a new application you (probably) have in mind: monitoring HR/SpO2 during exercise, right? Wrist mount and huge motion artifacts pose significant problems and my code is not designed to deal with these. An additional accelerometer is required to compensate, at somewhat, for this additional noise. Fortunately, MAXIM offers such a kit that you may want to consider:https://datasheets.maximintegrated.com/en/ds/MAX30...https://www.maximintegrated.com/en/products/sensor...

I have just finished a similar project of converting my old Sony Digital8 camcorder into a microscope. The differences are:1. I bought an extra macro lens for it (found by camera type on Amazon), which lets me achieve quite good magnifications up to 60x. Useful in detecting microscopic solder cracks. :)2. It is connected through a FireWire to my old iMac. The iMovie software nicely interfaces with it and lets me record and edit videos.3. The camera mount is motorized 9made out of an old professional CD burner), but it moves it only up and down. Seems your boom arm is better in this respect.

This question has just been resolved over e-mail.

Nice project, thank you for sharing. There seems to be only one tiny bug in the code as posted. In the main loop you have the following construct: if ((analogRead(0)>130) && (analogRead(0)<160)) { <part 1> } else if ((analogRead(0)>130) && (analogRead(0)<160)) {<part 2>}Huh? Apart from the missing last bracket, <part 2> will never execute.

On a car - that would increase car's air resistance. So, yes, you would get electrical energy (with very poor efficiency) at a cost of burning more gasoline.

Thank you. Wow, you've been very productive: 53 Instructables! However (correct me if I'm wrong), none of these involves phone hacks. Please share at least some these since I'm at the moment interested in landline phone electronics.About the ringer-off switch: Do you solemnly swear to dutifully and manually turn the ringer off every evening and back on every morning? :)Although my phone has such a switch, too, I am not that disciplined. I have better things to do than remembering about the switch all the time... This is what machines are for.

Done, in Step 3.

Very nice work. There is only one tiny snafu: your LED screen still reads "SYSTEM ON" when it's in the OFF state.

Thank you for excellent tips!

Thank you. Yes, timed switch would also work (although you wouldn't be able to make calls). There are many ways to skin a cat. ;) In fact, Amazon sells an ordinary switch + RJ11 jack combo for $15!https://www.amazon.com/Telephone-connected-Interru...Amazing what nowadays people make money on. :)

Why drive to a mailbox that is 60 feet away from home (I've seen people actually do that), when one can just walk? Why complicate things with some fasteners (I have to buy form a specialty store miles away) when two nails are so simple? (Actually, two wood screws in my case.)There are many ways to skin a cat, according to one popular saying. I chose the simplest one.For our foreign readers: 60 feet is about 20 meters. Yes, I literally saw a person opening the garage door, getting into a car, then driving these 20 meters to pick up mail, then making a U-turn and driving back to the garage... Wonders of America.

Sure, there are many ways to skin a cat, according to one popular saying. I chose the simplest one. Fasteners - these I would have to buy form a specialty store miles away. What could be simpler than just two nails?Actually, my picture hangs on two wood screws. But these are only marginally more complicated than nails :)

If your transmitter does not work - and you verified that all connections are OK - then it may be that the oscillator does not oscillate (I've found it the hard way). Desolder your antenna and try again at close distance. I've used the (advised elsewhere) quarter-wave flexible wire antenna and my oscillator worked only at super high frequencies. At lower ones it was damped down - see attached images.

This cool product from Adafruit: https://www.adafruit.com/products/292will let you display data on an LCD screen using just 2 Arduino pins.