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I didn't have enough time to make those
The file names are a good place to start. They are somewhat descriptive such as "Dome Back Bottom" and "Dome Back Middle". Look at photos 5 and 6 in Step One, they are assembled but not painted yet. Try doing one side at a time so you aren't mixing right and left side pieces.
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It's been a while since I worked with these. Did you double check all the connections? Maybe there's not enough power? Try working with one matrix. Once that is operational, try the full set. There should be plenty of tutorials to get you started. Good luck!
Most of the parts are for the left side only, so all but one of them (Back Wire Harness) will need to be mirrored for the left half. I don't recall the exact number of parts, but 58 seems correct including the mirrored parts.
I printed without modifying the size
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It's been a while, I forget the exact cost. If you have all the tools already, it would be $200-$350 for the Guy Manuel helmet and $150-$300 for the Thomas helmet to build them yourself.
it's been a while, so I dont remember the exact price. Probably around $250-$350 for the Guy Manuel and $150-$250 for the Thomas helmet, if you already have the tools.
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Yes, there's a link to it in Step 12. I used one for each helmet.
That's right, the whole thing only needs one pin to control from Arduino! The ws2812b LEDs are programmable RGB, so you can do everything in the code. You can think of it as an 8x8 ws2812b matrix; in fact I used an 8x8 matrix to learn how to code the light bars.Here's a guide for working with a matrix:https://learn.adafruit.com/adafruit-neopixel-uberg...
I ended up disconnecting the Parallax controller and replacing it with Arduino so I could program it myself. The Parallax is definitely a much better controller, but I already know how to program Arduino.Try wiring the light bars up as if they were a single, continuous strip. Then run the Neopixel demo code from Adafruit:https://learn.adafruit.com/adafruit-neopixel-uberg...It will look awesome just with the demo code. You can then re-program it to be more like the original if you have time, add a microphone and preamp to do the VU meter, etc.If you want to be able to switch between modes, you will need to use an interrupt on the Arduino. And don't use the delay() function for timing if you are using interrupts!
I improved the design since the picture was taken, so don't worry if it looks a little different.
I really appreciate the post and the photos, love seeing what other people are doing with the Instructable
Excellent work on the helmet! And great jacket, is that black sequins? I had a problem with the visor seam also. I posted new files on my Thingiverse page for single-piece visor frame (upper and lower), but it requires a printer larger than 150 mm x 150 mm. I made another Thomas helmet for my son this year (12% smaller size) and used pre-tinted acrylic for the clear visor and it worked great. How did you do the visor?
I printed it 5% smaller and epoxied or acetoned it into place
I'm trying out a new method that looks promising...1/8 thick pre-tinted acrylic sheet. At about 310 degrees F in the oven it is soft enough to drape over a form, but not so soft that it is optically warped. Test piece worked great. I'll post it if the final one works.
Very visible. I highly recommend you use a different method. Take it to an auto tint shop, or use dye.
By the way, I see some cracking at the corners. Get some 2-part epoxy and reinforce the inside behind the cracks, otherwise they will continue to re-appear, even if you patch them
Sounds like you're doing to correctly. Pictures would really help.It should only take 5-10 hours, not 40. Which helmet is it?
Those are looking pretty good, you're getting close. Patch 'low' spots with little dab of Bondo ("Glazing & Spot Putty", the red stuff in the Instructable...if you have it, otherwise a small batch of the two-part stuff should work) then hand files and/or 60 grit sandpaper for the worst 'high' spots - especially in hard to reach spots. This does mean you'll have to go over it with 120, 240, 300, etc, etc, again, but it will be MUCH faster than trying to do it all with fine grit.
It shouldn't take that long. Is this Bondo on top of PLA? Or Bondo on epoxy on PLA? What grit are you using? Can you post or link pictures?If you use too fine grit initially, you won't get rid of the deep imperfections. You need to go from rough to medium to fine to ultra fine grits.
Also, how did you tint the visor? Since this one doesn't have to be vacuum formed, you can probably use pre-tinted material?
Well done and thank you for posting! What type of helmet did you use inside? I thought about doing that too, might have made it a little more comfortable. Good idea with the membrane buttons in the chin!
As I recall they didn't fit perfectly. The Bondo will fix a lot of little gaps. If there's a big mismatch, you may want to reprint that part. Does the other side fit?
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Thanks for the reminder, here's the file:https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1883799Yes, they are version 1.5
Thanks for the reminder, here's the file:https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1883799
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Mike, I printed them at 95% and had to sand a bit to get them to fit. To attach I used acetone (acetone only works with ABS, you'll have to use epoxy if you printed with PLA or something else).
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I appreciate the offer, Jared, but they aren't for sale. Do a search on etsy.com, you'll find plenty you can buy there.
Thank you for your vote!
I appreciate the offer Jared, but they aren't for sale. Do a search on easy.com and you will find plenty for sale.
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