NoelA11

Really need the code for this project as i have built it all up and when i went to load the firmware the link is broken so now im stuck with a project that will not work without code, and i have no idea on how to write the code myself. i do electronics not code. please can somebody help me with this? either the author or others in this community?

Another easier way is to use blackbord paint then apply clear finnish over top to suit. its crude but actually looks pretty convincing. but i still prefer the backyard chemisty. if you add a little hydrogen peroxide with the vinegar to speed up the reaction.

this is pretty awesome and something i have been wanting to do, but you missed an important sensor, the geiger counter. this is what i build so know a thing or two about getting one integrated, but the software thing is beyond me, my coding sucks

I have just recently built my first Wimshurst, but im having a little trouble with it and hope you or others here can help me out. it works but the output is very low and there is arcing at the neutralizers and eventually arcing between segments on the disk. the whole machien is built from clear acrylic and brass, and it looks really good. it has 380mm disks and is motorized.

would i be able to use a nano for this instead of an uno? and yeah having a downloadable code would be better

Are you able to help with a modified code for this project to include Alpha detection as well? i have a new Geiger tube on its way for my mk 2 version of this project, and its an end window version that is an upgrade to the SMB-20 tube. building the physical geiger counter is easy for me but as for the code, im totally out of my depth

I love Jek Chicken but its very rare to find here in NZ. must try this some time but may go for a slightly hotter chilly as i have some chocolate ghost peppers that would work mint to give it a real bite.

Been wanting to build something like this for ages, but i want to take it one step further and include a working geiger counter as i have built a few working geiger counters and know a basic oine that would do the job.

would this run from a single 18650 battery? i ask because i have these on hand and it would allow me to add usb charging.

major problems with the new pcb footprints. neither the esp8266 or the boost converter pin sizes match. the esp8266 footprints are too narrow with the pin rows being much to close together. and the boost converter is also to narrow. have not tried to add the HV boost board but think that will also have problems. the only way i can get it to work is by removing the headers and replacing them with bent wires which is going to be a real hard job.

Awesome thanks for that, really look forward to getting this working, and will share here when i do. my case is going to be radiation yellow with black radiation symbol, have just finnished the prep work so the project is coming allong nicely. the only hold up is waiting for ebay purchases to arrive, as it takes for ever to get them here to New Zealand.

Nice Build, im working on building your previous model at pressent and have added usb charging with a simple mod, and think it will easily fit my needs. i don't work with SMT if i can avoid it as prefer the ease of through hole. i have the pcb for it partially populated with the parts i have, just waiting for the last two items so i can complete the build. is there any update to the code for the previous model? i haven't programmed the board yet as it is one of the parts im waiting for. im not very experienced with code and arduino in general so having your help with this would be gratefully received..

the resistor is a current limit to protect the tube i believe. im currently building it and will post comments once its finished to help others, as the author isn't responding to anyone, both here and on the youtube video. hopefully my build goes well and i can help others. i also recently found another one gieger counter build on here that features a touch screen, so maybe worth checking out.

by the way, im in New Zealand, not the US

this is the board i have

the Headphone amp module link goes to a different board than the one you use in this project, why is this? and will it work for this project? i have one and not sure how exactly to use it. i have the rest of the build waiting for installing the board but im at somewhat of a standstill as i don't want to screw up this project.

12v sealed lead acid battery is the easy option, as are laptop chargers, or wall wart style suppies.

how do i exactly change the code to work with a S13BG tube? im totally a novice at Arduino, this is my first project with one. i really like your design, and i purchased the S13bg tube as its cheap as and smaller size.

If you add a PWM unit into the pwoer supply you will have full control of speed, they can be brought cheap as on ebay

the often cause of the flickering is the energy saver mode, so by turning it off via settings on the menu function on screen can often fix it without the need for getting out the screw driver and wire cutters. if you do resort to this drastic solution, please be aware of the dangers involved. there are live components if plugged in, and even after unplugged there are still capacitors on the power supply that can hold a charge, so a dropper tool or screw can cause major damage. take care.

Technically not a tesla coil, as tesla coils are an air cored high frequency transformer outputting HV HF AC, by using a crt flyback instead of the distinctive exposed primary and secondary you are outputting DC, and that's limiting your output potential.

then buy a NST locally and use that, im in NZ and have 230v supply, and all my coils run on it fine. i reckon it's even better.

Would suggest using thinner wire for the secondary, anything from 29 to 32 gauge, any thinner and you will end up frustrating, and build a basic jig using a drill or better, easy enough to make from basic hardware store materials, and provide a center to freely unroll. take your time and get it right. this is the most important part. once finished use a Function generator and a couple of LEDs to and finds its resonant frequency, then use this to tune your primary, when you get this right you get the free air discharges that don't need a earth wire. be warned, if you make one, you will make another. have 12 and working on number 13 that is a 6.5" secondary 15kv. big and scary.

to convert DC to Ac you need an inverter, something best done with low voltages. the tesla coil is an AC transformer, and runs on AC. Neon sign transformers are AC and are the normal power source. the only DC high voltage Transformers i know of are old CRT TV flybacks, and these are not really suitable for tesla coils. all other transformers are AC as this is how they work.

the spark gap is what charges and discharges the capacitor bank into the primary coil. the width of the spark gap is dependent on the size of the power source and the capacitance of the cap bank, and this width can change the output of the coil as the wider the gap the higher the discharge but the slower the pulse rate. its something you have to tune to your coil.

I built something similar but with a strange Crank Brothers Downhill Race wheel i came by that has really strange spoking system that i wouldn't trust to ride with but it makes a great talking point. also used simple LED strip lighting glued to the rear side of rim, and the wheel is mounted on a simple L bracket through the 20mm axle hole. simplified, and runs on a hacked power supply from some random applience sorced from the local second hand super store for $2. all up the project cost me about $10 and the wheel itself was free as was on a bike i brought and sold with matched wheelset. will try and get a picture and post it here.

can you please provide a link to where you got the PC board? have a friend who wanting me to build one of these set ups for so would really help

the other obvious use for this circuit is for a induction heater

yeah its an old school name for it, and didn't know it myself until recently even though ive been making this for years, and just didn't know what it was really called.

a little tip with drying, the use of heat to dry damages the parts of the plant used for this purpose, and long slow drying is prefered, as they say, all good things take time.

potato ricers are more common tool in america, here in NZ they are rarely available. they are great for this use as it gets all the possible oil and is a simple tool to use, and maximises the pressure your able to apply. i have used it for many similar tasks, but yet to ever use them for their stated purpose lol. you would be able to find them on amazon or any online kitchen tool site.the use of fresh flowers means less of the good stuff is available as the drying process helps release it prior to use, but to use fresh flowers you can bruis up in a mortar n pestle to get into the good stuff.

Im thinking of doing a similar build but plan on mounting neodymium magnets around the rim, flush mounted so they are out of sight, then have a concealed coil, hopefully this will provide enough current to provide USB Charging and lights.using deep vee style rim on my single speed commute bike, so i can charge my phone while being able to use it as gps when needed. plan to make it as concealed as possible and leave people scratching their heads trying to work it out. willl try and write a Instructiple when done and will post a link.

i have salvaged 18650 batteries from cordless tool batteries, and mannged to retain some of the tabs that are spot welded and using thes it made soldering a little easier. alternitivly there are many instructibles on building spot welders from MOT salvaged from microwaves.

any chance of some measurements for the different ingredient, or approximates, kinda want to get it to work first time then go from there. great instructable by the way

Nice knife but sadly wrong material used. saw blades with tungsten teeth are no good for knife blades, the metal is to soft and will not hold an edge, and no amount of heating and quenching is going to change that. the only saw blades that can be used are the old type without added teeth, and some older hand saws as well, but any hand saws with blue teeth or bymetal, these use wrong material also. easy mistake, lucky for me im an engineer and blade smith so know my materials. will be posting an instructable soon, just finishing a blade made from accessible tools and materials that are 100% recycled.

using a sealed helium gas cooling circuit would increase production. better thermal characteristics than air without the water issues that comes with pressurizing air.

the solution would be rivnuts, like a rivet but a nut that acts as a captive nut, and allows for the use of standed bolts or similar. either that or tap the holes themselves

My father built me and my sister something similar when we were kids. his was a replica of the 1903 curved dash oldsmobile, and was powered by an model T ford alternator, powered by a single 12 volt car battery. was a great toy, didn't go fast but went in style big time. was a regular feature in the local sata parades and vintage car meets, and was my pride and joy. sadly im yet to have kids, but when i do they will be spoiled rotten with many similar toys as im a real jack of all trades. currently working on a couple of instructibles and this has given me a target to aim for. Awesome work mate!

http://www.suttontools.com/products/diamond-core-bits-blue-ceram-d605/

A tip on drilling, as a lot have mentioned heat being a problem, the secret to cooling is use of soapy water, dishwashing liquid is best, and if necessary build a dam to keep the water where you wants it and keep it flowing as this will stop heat from building up. The dishwashing liquid acts to break the water tension that prevents the water getting directly to the cutting surface. This prevents an adverse temperature differential that can cause the glass to crack.also find that smooth full circular diamond drills work best, as the consistent pressure leads to fewer vibrations which can also cause cracks to form. here in New Zealand i can get very good drills from Sutton Tools, and they also sell a dressing stone that also helps.

using a basic drill mill or cross slid for a drill press, 1/2 inch end mill or 12mm , and for the angle part either use a dremel or a reversed 45 cutter. makes mass producing with a whole rim or several rims, easily made in an afternoon. also you can get creative and use chain links between sections of rim to make a snake style effect..

I have built a project very similar but used a motor from a sewing machine, so mains powered. the window wiper motor isn't ideal as not designed for continuous running and as you point out there's a resulting heat issue. even though heat was minimal with mine i added a fan salvaged from a pc, and powered it with a simple plug pack power transformer. currently working on mk 2.......

the heating process would also remove any hot glue used to secure the cubes for finishing.

if you were to make this from steel rather than alloy, you could be really cheeky with the center ball by using physics. if the finished cube set was evenly heated the metal would expand enough to be able to trap a ball bearing in the center,. best option would be to heat in a brine, that way you would get even expansion. just find the right size bearing and chill it before fitting. the brine would also colour the metal as it is how firearms are blued. just a suggestion from an engineer with a nerdy side.

i have fabricatored a few billet molds out of plate but found the angle was a simple mold that will handle alluminium and brass and verious other mix. i tended to tap them out when i could do so with a welding guaghlet with minimal smoke, hope that makes sense. the problem you had with the bake ware is easy to understand when you consider the brazzing method of welding. i often dusted my ingot molds with casting sand ot aid seperation. one of my favorit little mold is an old cast iron jem iron used in the days of coal ranges.keeping it simple is a good rule of thumb when finding the best option, differing enviromental factors will make some good one place but no good elseware in the world. im no expert but have 30 years of playing with metals. Knowledge is useless unlesss shared.

i have found the best option is to use a section of heavy angle the hight of the crucible yoiu use. stand on its point and weld a couple of ends out of the same angle with flat facing down as feet. after poring the alloy tends to shink a bit so a light tap with a hammer will pop out perfect ingots. the other idea that Grant Thompson "The King Of Random" uses old muffin tins with sucess. cement is hydrosopic so even when dried completely and stored it will take water from the atmopher and this means the mold made from it could exspode with little warning.