NoelA11

12v sealed lead acid battery is the easy option, as are laptop chargers, or wall wart style suppies.

how do i exactly change the code to work with a S13BG tube? im totally a novice at Arduino, this is my first project with one. i really like your design, and i purchased the S13bg tube as its cheap as and smaller size.

If you add a PWM unit into the pwoer supply you will have full control of speed, they can be brought cheap as on ebay

the often cause of the flickering is the energy saver mode, so by turning it off via settings on the menu function on screen can often fix it without the need for getting out the screw driver and wire cutters. if you do resort to this drastic solution, please be aware of the dangers involved. there are live components if plugged in, and even after unplugged there are still capacitors on the power supply that can hold a charge, so a dropper tool or screw can cause major damage. take care.

Technically not a tesla coil, as tesla coils are an air cored high frequency transformer outputting HV HF AC, by using a crt flyback instead of the distinctive exposed primary and secondary you are outputting DC, and that's limiting your output potential.

the spark gap is what charges and discharges the capacitor bank into the primary coil. the width of the spark gap is dependent on the size of the power source and the capacitance of the cap bank, and this width can change the output of the coil as the wider the gap the higher the discharge but the slower the pulse rate. its something you have to tune to your coil.

Earth, and thats what the bottom end of the secondary should be wired to.

then buy a NST locally and use that, im in NZ and have 230v supply, and all my coils run on it fine. i reckon it's even better.

the taser type high voltage sources are DC and not suitable. they use a voltage multiplier to get the high voltage and this make the output DC and this will not work. A tesla coil runs on AC and needs to be HV

I built something similar but with a strange Crank Brothers Downhill Race wheel i came by that has really strange spoking system that i wouldn't trust to ride with but it makes a great talking point. also used simple LED strip lighting glued to the rear side of rim, and the wheel is mounted on a simple L bracket through the 20mm axle hole. simplified, and runs on a hacked power supply from some random applience sorced from the local second hand super store for $2. all up the project cost me about $10 and the wheel itself was free as was on a bike i brought and sold with matched wheelset. will try and get a picture and post it here.

can you please provide a link to where you got the PC board? have a friend who wanting me to build one of these set ups for so would really help

the other obvious use for this circuit is for a induction heater

a little tip with drying, the use of heat to dry damages the parts of the plant used for this purpose, and long slow drying is prefered, as they say, all good things take time.

yeah its an old school name for it, and didn't know it myself until recently even though ive been making this for years, and just didn't know what it was really called.

potato ricers are more common tool in america, here in NZ they are rarely available. they are great for this use as it gets all the possible oil and is a simple tool to use, and maximises the pressure your able to apply. i have used it for many similar tasks, but yet to ever use them for their stated purpose lol. you would be able to find them on amazon or any online kitchen tool site.the use of fresh flowers means less of the good stuff is available as the drying process helps release it prior to use, but to use fresh flowers you can bruis up in a mortar n pestle to get into the good stuff.

Im thinking of doing a similar build but plan on mounting neodymium magnets around the rim, flush mounted so they are out of sight, then have a concealed coil, hopefully this will provide enough current to provide USB Charging and lights.using deep vee style rim on my single speed commute bike, so i can charge my phone while being able to use it as gps when needed. plan to make it as concealed as possible and leave people scratching their heads trying to work it out. willl try and write a Instructiple when done and will post a link.

i have salvaged 18650 batteries from cordless tool batteries, and mannged to retain some of the tabs that are spot welded and using thes it made soldering a little easier. alternitivly there are many instructibles on building spot welders from MOT salvaged from microwaves.

any chance of some measurements for the different ingredient, or approximates, kinda want to get it to work first time then go from there. great instructable by the way

Nice knife but sadly wrong material used. saw blades with tungsten teeth are no good for knife blades, the metal is to soft and will not hold an edge, and no amount of heating and quenching is going to change that. the only saw blades that can be used are the old type without added teeth, and some older hand saws as well, but any hand saws with blue teeth or bymetal, these use wrong material also. easy mistake, lucky for me im an engineer and blade smith so know my materials. will be posting an instructable soon, just finishing a blade made from accessible tools and materials that are 100% recycled.

using a sealed helium gas cooling circuit would increase production. better thermal characteristics than air without the water issues that comes with pressurizing air.

the solution would be rivnuts, like a rivet but a nut that acts as a captive nut, and allows for the use of standed bolts or similar. either that or tap the holes themselves

My father built me and my sister something similar when we were kids. his was a replica of the 1903 curved dash oldsmobile, and was powered by an model T ford alternator, powered by a single 12 volt car battery. was a great toy, didn't go fast but went in style big time. was a regular feature in the local sata parades and vintage car meets, and was my pride and joy. sadly im yet to have kids, but when i do they will be spoiled rotten with many similar toys as im a real jack of all trades. currently working on a couple of instructibles and this has given me a target to aim for. Awesome work mate!

http://www.suttontools.com/products/diamond-core-bits-blue-ceram-d605/

A tip on drilling, as a lot have mentioned heat being a problem, the secret to cooling is use of soapy water, dishwashing liquid is best, and if necessary build a dam to keep the water where you wants it and keep it flowing as this will stop heat from building up. The dishwashing liquid acts to break the water tension that prevents the water getting directly to the cutting surface. This prevents an adverse temperature differential that can cause the glass to crack.also find that smooth full circular diamond drills work best, as the consistent pressure leads to fewer vibrations which can also cause cracks to form. here in New Zealand i can get very good drills from Sutton Tools, and they also sell a dressing stone that also helps.

using a basic drill mill or cross slid for a drill press, 1/2 inch end mill or 12mm , and for the angle part either use a dremel or a reversed 45 cutter. makes mass producing with a whole rim or several rims, easily made in an afternoon. also you can get creative and use chain links between sections of rim to make a snake style effect..

I have built a project very similar but used a motor from a sewing machine, so mains powered. the window wiper motor isn't ideal as not designed for continuous running and as you point out there's a resulting heat issue. even though heat was minimal with mine i added a fan salvaged from a pc, and powered it with a simple plug pack power transformer. currently working on mk 2.......

if you were to make this from steel rather than alloy, you could be really cheeky with the center ball by using physics. if the finished cube set was evenly heated the metal would expand enough to be able to trap a ball bearing in the center,. best option would be to heat in a brine, that way you would get even expansion. just find the right size bearing and chill it before fitting. the brine would also colour the metal as it is how firearms are blued. just a suggestion from an engineer with a nerdy side.

the heating process would also remove any hot glue used to secure the cubes for finishing.

i have fabricatored a few billet molds out of plate but found the angle was a simple mold that will handle alluminium and brass and verious other mix. i tended to tap them out when i could do so with a welding guaghlet with minimal smoke, hope that makes sense. the problem you had with the bake ware is easy to understand when you consider the brazzing method of welding. i often dusted my ingot molds with casting sand ot aid seperation. one of my favorit little mold is an old cast iron jem iron used in the days of coal ranges.keeping it simple is a good rule of thumb when finding the best option, differing enviromental factors will make some good one place but no good elseware in the world. im no expert but have 30 years of playing with metals. Knowledge is useless unlesss shared.

i have found the best option is to use a section of heavy angle the hight of the crucible yoiu use. stand on its point and weld a couple of ends out of the same angle with flat facing down as feet. after poring the alloy tends to shink a bit so a light tap with a hammer will pop out perfect ingots. the other idea that Grant Thompson "The King Of Random" uses old muffin tins with sucess. cement is hydrosopic so even when dried completely and stored it will take water from the atmopher and this means the mold made from it could exspode with little warning.

excellent instructable and i really appreciate the template design for download, plan to make a couple in brass, recycle a bit of rifle brass for it.

something that is fustratin is the difference in pipe fitting here in New Zealand. the common parts here don't really work the same. i working on a work around though.......

well put my fellow bladesmith/engineer, if more people had this knowledge alot of time would be saved. complex metallurgy knowledge is not needed, just a few key points about steel. i know many who have made what were some very nice blades from files but that tends to end in tears as its to high carbon. an old saw with no tips and a large tooth is the best bet if you don't have a decent steel supplier where you live, or find a reputable online supplier. if in doubt a simple google search will find the perfect metal option for your purpose, as every type of knife have a prefered metal as every job has different needs. if you have a local spring maker that makes leath type springs, they will often both sell you a piece of correct steel or even give it to you if its an offcut, and they wil...

well put my fellow bladesmith/engineer, if more people had this knowledge alot of time would be saved. complex metallurgy knowledge is not needed, just a few key points about steel. i know many who have made what were some very nice blades from files but that tends to end in tears as its to high carbon. an old saw with no tips and a large tooth is the best bet if you don't have a decent steel supplier where you live, or find a reputable online supplier. if in doubt a simple google search will find the perfect metal option for your purpose, as every type of knife have a prefered metal as every job has different needs. if you have a local spring maker that makes leath type springs, they will often both sell you a piece of correct steel or even give it to you if its an offcut, and they will also be able to heat treat it for you to take the hardest part of the process out of your hands, and into skilled hands. most workshops are pretty freindy and its amazing what a box of beers will get you.......