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  • Engraving Plastic With a Dremel

    a lot of plastics are ABS. so using a ABS slurry works well as a paint for ABS. the acetone will soften the part as its still has unevaporated acteone, but it will get hard again. once its hardened the slurry will basically join the part as if it was there from the start (not as a surface treatment like paint)a ABS slurry is ABS plastic dissolved in acetone. this is commonly used in 3d printing.when i use slurry, i use a stick and not a brush. depending on how much needs filling i go with a q-tip with the cotton removed, a 2mm swab with the tip removed, or a toothpick, (the 2mm swab is plastic not sure what type, but its not ABS so acetone will not soften it) the above makes for very sharp and percise linesif acetone scares you then model paint will work ok too. and i still recommend a to…

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    a lot of plastics are ABS. so using a ABS slurry works well as a paint for ABS. the acetone will soften the part as its still has unevaporated acteone, but it will get hard again. once its hardened the slurry will basically join the part as if it was there from the start (not as a surface treatment like paint)a ABS slurry is ABS plastic dissolved in acetone. this is commonly used in 3d printing.when i use slurry, i use a stick and not a brush. depending on how much needs filling i go with a q-tip with the cotton removed, a 2mm swab with the tip removed, or a toothpick, (the 2mm swab is plastic not sure what type, but its not ABS so acetone will not soften it) the above makes for very sharp and percise linesif acetone scares you then model paint will work ok too. and i still recommend a toothpick and to paint with

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  • EBike Conversion - Coffee Hauler

    step 1 "WATTS=POWER the higher the voltage, the more power your going to have" is a very fuzzy statement, and has no real meaning cause by power means nothing in electricity. i think you mean torque. higher voltage = higher torque (and slower)and higher amps = fasterso both are importantoh and 1 more important equation that im goiung to simplify is Volts*Amps=Wattswatts is actual consumption,.heres a couple of things you may want to readelectricity water anology (its a great example of how electricity works) https://learn.sparkfun.com/tutorials/voltage-current-resistance-and-ohms-law/voltageand this article on motors https://www.jameco.com/Jameco/workshop/ProductNews/motor-buyers-guide.html

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  • Audio Technica ATH M50s Removable Cable Mod

    you can buy pre made cables for this exact purpose off ebay. they work well when not DOA. some even have a switch to flip between android and IOS mode. heres the style i use with my sony MDR-7506s (the black one) https://www.ebay.com/itm/HB-Male-Volume-Control-AUX-Audio-Adapter-Cable-with-Mic-for-Speaker-Headphone-3/202914239258

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  • DIY Solder Tip Cleaner

    i honestly dont remember what my pads are made of as they came in a 5 pack with each pad sealed seperately in a unmarked baggie. but it shouldnt matter as long as its not intended for general cleaning as i mentioned in another post 99.99% of the times the general cleaning ones contains additives that will destroy your tip (ive done it, and solder tip tin did not help)since you said spark fun i will assume its safe for electronics soldering as thats their target demographic)

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  • i get my Isopropyl Alcohol from Walgreens as they commonly have a 32 oz bottle of 91% for less then $4, many times on sale (right now its on a a buy 1 get 1 half off)i just put a spray top on it (i have a bunch of brand new tops (meaning unused, not reclaimed (because many plastics will absorb a little solvent). i cant remember where i got them from, its been years.)spray it on the board where i need it, and brush awayi also use this bottle of alcohol to turn toilet paper into alcohol pads, and to clean around the House, works well on many adhesives and sharpie markers. to steralize food prep area before beginning vacuum sealing food.no spray lids? then a Zep 32 oz bottle is a wonderful thing. home depot, menards, and lowes sells these for under $4 each, and the sprayers are NICE. (the HD…

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    i get my Isopropyl Alcohol from Walgreens as they commonly have a 32 oz bottle of 91% for less then $4, many times on sale (right now its on a a buy 1 get 1 half off)i just put a spray top on it (i have a bunch of brand new tops (meaning unused, not reclaimed (because many plastics will absorb a little solvent). i cant remember where i got them from, its been years.)spray it on the board where i need it, and brush awayi also use this bottle of alcohol to turn toilet paper into alcohol pads, and to clean around the House, works well on many adhesives and sharpie markers. to steralize food prep area before beginning vacuum sealing food.no spray lids? then a Zep 32 oz bottle is a wonderful thing. home depot, menards, and lowes sells these for under $4 each, and the sprayers are NICE. (the HD brand used to be even better cause it has wide mouth by design and the exact same sprayer, but the last time i bought some, the sprayer was cheeped out on.)

    as others have said be careful with acetone, it will break down ABS.more importantly if your using a professional PCB (like from OSH park) then it can damage the solder mask as it breaks down epoxy (and solder mask is epoxy most of the time)

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  • i do exclusively use brass pads and recommend you do as well. your better solder stations will include a brass pad holder (and maybe a sponge holder as well)if you do follow this tip DO NOT GO EXTREMELY CHEAP ,unless you want to risk destroying your iron. the cheap ones are made for general cleaning and will (more than likely) be coated in chemicals that instantly cause the complete oxidation of your tip. and by complete i mean with no method of recovering the tip (even with tip tin compound) other than sandpaper.you can buy proper ones for pretty cheap.before i got my hakko, i bought a holder and 1 brass sponge from menards for a few dollars. (it was in the plumbing section)and at micro center between 1 and 2 years ago, bought a 5 pack of replacement pads for $6.99 +tax (and i know it wa…

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    i do exclusively use brass pads and recommend you do as well. your better solder stations will include a brass pad holder (and maybe a sponge holder as well)if you do follow this tip DO NOT GO EXTREMELY CHEAP ,unless you want to risk destroying your iron. the cheap ones are made for general cleaning and will (more than likely) be coated in chemicals that instantly cause the complete oxidation of your tip. and by complete i mean with no method of recovering the tip (even with tip tin compound) other than sandpaper.you can buy proper ones for pretty cheap.before i got my hakko, i bought a holder and 1 brass sponge from menards for a few dollars. (it was in the plumbing section)and at micro center between 1 and 2 years ago, bought a 5 pack of replacement pads for $6.99 +tax (and i know it was $6.99 because the bag has the price sticker on it of $6.99.)at this time i have only completely used 1 pad and am on my second pad, so i have 4 pads left over (5 in the refill pack + the one that came with my holder - 2 used or in use)also use something to hold the pad. because the solder will flake off and make a pile of solder dust. (the holder really makes cleanup much easier)my iron is a hakko FX-888D and it uses smaller pads then the standard sized ones (so i will tear the pads in half (they are soft and no need for scissors))the included iron stand had 3 parts, the holder with drip tray, brass pad slot, and sponge holder. because i dont use sponges, this will generally hold accessories and consumables (like solder wick, my roll of solder, and my extra tips (because i dont have a spot for those yet)

    the pads made for tip cleaning are brass (which alloy of copper and zinc) not pure copper i do exclusively use brass pads and recommend you do as well. your better solder stations will include a brass pad holder (and maybe a sponge holder as well)if you do follow this instructable DO NOT GO EXTREMELY CHEAP, unless you want to risk destroying your irons tip. the cheap ones are made for general cleaning and will (more than likely) be coated in chemicals that instantly cause the complete oxidation of your tip. and by complete i mean with no method of recovering the tip other than sandpaper.you can buy proper ones for pretty cheap.before i got my hakko, i bought a holder and 1 brass sponge from menards for a few dollars. (it was in the plumbing section)and at micro center between 1 and 2 year…

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    the pads made for tip cleaning are brass (which alloy of copper and zinc) not pure copper i do exclusively use brass pads and recommend you do as well. your better solder stations will include a brass pad holder (and maybe a sponge holder as well)if you do follow this instructable DO NOT GO EXTREMELY CHEAP, unless you want to risk destroying your irons tip. the cheap ones are made for general cleaning and will (more than likely) be coated in chemicals that instantly cause the complete oxidation of your tip. and by complete i mean with no method of recovering the tip other than sandpaper.you can buy proper ones for pretty cheap.before i got my hakko, i bought a holder and 1 brass sponge from menards for a few dollars. (it was in the plumbing section)and at micro center between 1 and 2 years ago, bought a 5 pack of replacement pads for $6.99 +tax (and i know it was $6.99 because the bag has the price sticker on it of $6.99.)at this time i have only completely used 1 pad and am on my second pad, so i have 4 pads left over (5 in the refill pack + the one that came with my holder - 2 used or in use)also use something to hold the pad. because the solder will flake off and make a pile of solder dust. (the holder really makes cleanup much easier)my iron is a hakko FX-888D and it uses smaller pads then the standard sized ones (so i will tear the pads in half (they are soft and no need for scissors))the included iron stand had 3 parts, the holder with drip tray, brass pad slot, and sponge holder. because i dont use sponges, this will generally hold accessories and consumables (like solder wick, my roll of solder, and my extra tips (because i dont have a spot for those yet)

    i do exclusively use brass pads and recommend you do as well. your better solder stations will include a brass pad holder (and maybe a sponge holder as well)if you do follow this tip DO NOT GO EXTREMELY CHEAP ,unless you want to risk destroying your irons tip. the cheap ones are made for general cleaning and will (more than likely) be coated in chemicals that instantly cause the complete oxidation of your tip. and by complete i mean with no method of recovering the tip other than sandpaper.you can buy proper ones for pretty cheap.before i got my hakko, i bought a holder and 1 brass sponge from menards for a few dollars. (it was in the plumbing section)and at micro center between 1 and 2 years ago, bought a 5 pack of replacement pads for $6.99 +tax (and i know it was $6.99 because the bag …

    see more »

    i do exclusively use brass pads and recommend you do as well. your better solder stations will include a brass pad holder (and maybe a sponge holder as well)if you do follow this tip DO NOT GO EXTREMELY CHEAP ,unless you want to risk destroying your irons tip. the cheap ones are made for general cleaning and will (more than likely) be coated in chemicals that instantly cause the complete oxidation of your tip. and by complete i mean with no method of recovering the tip other than sandpaper.you can buy proper ones for pretty cheap.before i got my hakko, i bought a holder and 1 brass sponge from menards for a few dollars. (it was in the plumbing section)and at micro center between 1 and 2 years ago, bought a 5 pack of replacement pads for $6.99 +tax (and i know it was $6.99 because the bag has the price sticker on it of $6.99.)at this time i have only completely used 1 pad and am on my second pad, so i have 4 pads left over (5 in the refill pack + the one that came with my holder - 2 used or in use)also use something to hold the pad. because the solder will flake off and make a pile of solder dust. (the holder really makes cleanup much easier)my iron is a hakko FX-888D and it uses smaller pads then the standard sized ones (so i will tear the pads in half (they are soft and no need for scissors))the included iron stand had 3 parts, the holder with drip tray, brass pad slot, and sponge holder. because i dont use sponges, this will generally hold accessories and consumables (like solder wick, my roll of solder, and my extra tips (because i dont have a spot for those yet)

    brass. its the industry standard for a few reasons.a) although brass is a copper alloy, it is softer than copperb) brass is more corrosion resistant than copperc) this is my personal reason, 1 pad will last a LONG time. (over a garbage can simply stretch the brass a little (only a little so it returns to near the original form), and shake out to remove any solder flakes. do this in multiple directions and your pad will last even longer).

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  • Overlord_Laharl commented on kobyx's instructable Simple Drill Holder

    make it out of 2 2x4's glued together. simple and somewhat weighty (so it wont fall over)

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  • a good pair of scissors do not cost $4. more like $10-$20. more if its a specialty (like sweing) or better material (like titanium or diamond coated blade)the only $4 scissors you will find are the small kids pairs for school. or dollar store scissors.and i keep a small kids scissors in the car for when it is needed. (because these came with a sheth (blade guard) and i wont be too worried if they do break due to the heat)these car scissors are used for clipping coupons neatly, cutting some rope, or making a stress relieving cut in a bag that is tearing/fraying.

    thanks for this instructable. i have never had a pair of good scissors have a fractured handle my only issue with a good pair was in a pair with a rubber inlaid grip. where the rubber came off (im still using them).i am marking this as a favorite for when i need it

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  • i have one unusual use for them.but before i state what let me state the background of it.i am a somewhat outdoory person (i love cycling). i wanted a waterproof case that i could turn attach a cellphone mount to for my bike.i have a LG G4.now the LG g4 is a great device (im still using mine, no case and i have NEVER cracked my screen, but my bezel has seen better days) my only issue with the G4 is the lack of water porof cases on the market. the only problem was the only non-universal waterptroof case i could find was on ebay, it was made of silicone sandwitched between 2 almunium plates with a built in screen protecter.will it didn't keep out the water AND it killed my signal. so my search resumed. after 2 days on amazon and ebay (and because there was no lifeproof case for the g4) i de…

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    i have one unusual use for them.but before i state what let me state the background of it.i am a somewhat outdoory person (i love cycling). i wanted a waterproof case that i could turn attach a cellphone mount to for my bike.i have a LG G4.now the LG g4 is a great device (im still using mine, no case and i have NEVER cracked my screen, but my bezel has seen better days) my only issue with the G4 is the lack of water porof cases on the market. the only problem was the only non-universal waterptroof case i could find was on ebay, it was made of silicone sandwitched between 2 almunium plates with a built in screen protecter.will it didn't keep out the water AND it killed my signal. so my search resumed. after 2 days on amazon and ebay (and because there was no lifeproof case for the g4) i decided to see what i could build. so i look all over my house. eventually i am in my kitchen and i see my cling wrap and thought this could work but i wouldnt be able to use my headphones (they are wired, and it would be too hard to disconnect my buds) so i cvontinue looking and decide to try a ziploc bag. the bag mostly sealed (with only my wire coming out) and folded over, worked well. plus it didnt interfere with my touch screen.infact this worked so well i now keep a box of gallon and quart bags near my enterance so i can replace broken/torn bags.now this didnt solve my inital issue of waterproof AND bike mountable so i got a generic "universal" waterproof mount for my bike it works well as well.

    check craft stores in the bead section. i get mine from michals.https://www.michaels.com/2-in-x-3-in-resealable-zi...http://www.michaels.com/1.5-in-x-2-in-resealable-z...

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  • I would Love to build this. But first I must make a reprap

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  • it should work, but it will not work with reserved characters The following reserved characters:< (less than)> (greater than): (colon)" (double quote)/ (forward slash)\ (backslash)| (vertical bar or pipe)? (question mark)* (asterisk)if not then its outside my expertise

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  • encase each folder name in quotes. for example if i wanted folder a, folder b, folder c. then my command would be md "folder a" "folder b" "folder c"

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  • this is a great method. i will have to try this out when i start my next seedlings.home made biodegradable pots.

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  • different stores call those different names but the real name is TRRS, finding high quality TRRS plugs can be a difficult task. Sometimes they are called 4 conducted stereo, it cell phone audioJust make sure you get the same diameter one that you need (for Android and iPhone it's 3.5 mm TRRS) I have seen 2.5 mm TRRS. FYI the standard stereo plug is called TRSRead all about TRRS here https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Phone_connector_(aud...T = tipR = ringS = sleeve

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  • if you 3d print a mold and are using sugru, try undiluted dish soap as a release agent (i used it and it worked well.) brush on the soap before just before use and the mold should release fairly easily when fully dry.i printed a custom PS vita usb mold on a maker bot replicator 2. i then brushed on some dawn ultra, them made the replacement sleeve, worked well and it fits the stupid vita charger like a glove.

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