Prfesser

Caution is advised when the bits will be used to drill in steel/iron. The magnets will make the bits slightly magnetic, and it's hard to get all the chips off. For woodwork or drilling non-ferrous metals, however, it's a great idea!

Very well done! I cobbled up something similar for my lathe, but your design is far more elegant. In particular, using a waste piece as the shroud is a nice touch.

Wow.... just wow. Turn square stock into a $2000 anvil... you got my vote!

That looks absolutely FABULOUS! Yet another dessert for me to try...

Outstanding! Our office has one with a plastic base which cracked after the first few uses. I think I'll make a new wooden base using your instructable as inspiration. Thanks!

A very nice looking model!You may have a lot less mess and smoother finish if *extruded* styrene foam is used instead of *expanded* foam (beadboard). Construction sites for new housing often have scraps of the extruded foam after they're done with insulating. Two things to remember: make sure it's polystyrene and not polyurethane (PU) foam. PU foam can give off nasty gases when it's hot-wire cut. And the extruded foam usually has a vapor barrier on each face. Peel those off before hotwiring or gluing.

Nice! I made something similar for curing epoxy-fiberglass parts, except that the panels you creatively acquired weren't available around here, at least not for free. I used 1/4" tile backerboard for the box, surrounded by 2" thick blueboard styrofoam, glued with epoxy, and with edges protected with Gorilla tape.Got a thermostat similar to this one on eBay, runs around $20-25:https://www.ebay.com/itm/AC-112-Pets-Digital-LED-T...or search for 'aquarium thermostat'. With a 60 watt bulb and a small fan to distribute the heat, an internal temperature of 150 F could be maintained against 45 F outdoor temperature.Also: check furniture store dumpsters, I was able to scavenge large pieces of 2" styro beadboard for another curing box.

A very well-illustrated instructable! I need one of these for home, as I sit at the computer much of the day; I'd rather stand!

What size pan is used for this? It makes a huge difference.

I am going to be ten pounds (about 5 kilos :-)) heavier after making this cake... Your idea for cutting cake layers evenly is excellent, simple but accurate; I must remember that one!

I like it! A suggestion: find a machine shop nearby. Ask if they have any old bandsaw blades that they'd like to get rid of. Since the blade is hardened steel, you'll need to anneal the ends (heat red-hot, cover with dry sand or ashes and allow to cool) in order to drill the ends. But it'd be less work than grinding a bunch of teeth. (And you'd have an actual working hacksaw!)

This one looks like a keeper! We always have leftover mashed potatoes. BTW nutmeg goes great in a lot of potato dishes---I use it in potato soup. And it will nutmeg you sick... OK, I'll leave now...:)

I agree that adding fat to a hugely-overheated skillet can be hazardous to your health. OTOH "The Frugal Gourmet", Jeff Smith, gave a tip on TV that I've remembered and used for decades: "Hot pan, cold oil, food won't stick." Just don't heat the pan rocket-hot before adding oil. Works nicely.

I very STRONGLY suggest making arms of different lengths to accommodate different bowls. NOT a single set of arms that project from the lathe chuck, with holes for adjustment. If a piece of steel spinning at several hundred rpm hits a finger, it is likely to remove the finger(s) rather than just bumping the hand aside. There is a video on the web of a man whose sleeve was caught in the lathe. Not pretty. Safety first, please.

Wish I'd seen this about a year ago, when I was construcing my cat tree. Yours would have been much easier to make, and sturdier. Looks like it'd be easy to cover it with scrap carpet too.Besides carpet, the only thing I'd add would be weight to the bottom. Paving stones, maybe? If my 15-lb cat junped from the floor onto one of the platforms, he might tip the whole thing over.Great job! You've got my vote!

FanTASTIC! Very well illustrated and explained. I'm willing to bet that your replacement will outlast the grill itself! You've got me thinking about my own grill, which has four burners. Time to take a careful look and see what I can do with it...

I just checked eBay and pectinase is available in bulk, $10/lb. Thank you OP!

An end-grain cutting board has the end grain of the wood as the surface. Look at your first photo of all those boards; an end-grain board has those ends facing up, like this:https://www.instructables.com/End-Grain-Cutting...A knife blade dulls less when used on an end-grain cutting board, due to the natural tendency of the blade to fit between bits of the grain.Best -- Prfesser

I did not watch any videos (and generally don't). What are the ingredients? (It would be nice if the list was at the beginning.)

FWIW tempered glass usually will fracture into rounded bits if it's scratched heavily or struck hard. Working tempered glass is not advisable; ordinary window glass, or plate glass (3/16" thick) is better.

Very interesting! Of course, I'd end up damaging myself if I tried to ride it...:-)One suggestion: Some stiff foam pipe insulation or similar, held in place with the handyman's secret weapon---plenty of duct tape--- would minimize possible injury to the user in the event of a fall.Keep us posted on progress!

Looks delicious! It's not quite gluten free as Oreos contain wheat flour, but it undoubtedly has a lot less gluten than most cakes.

Hi, about 20 years ago I wrote a pamphlet on making spiral-wound paper tubes, very similar to your methods. It's currently sold by Apogee Components: https://www.apogeerockets.com/Rocket_Books_Videos/...Like qdogg, I found that gummed kraft packing tape works best. It's often made from virgin kraft which is stronger than the recycled stuff. It doesn't wrinkle significantly (a BIG plus, let me tell you!). Tubes of almost any length can be made---cutting a strip of kraft paper more than 3-4 ft long with parallel edges is something of a chore. And it's quite cheap---$7 for a 600 foot roll of 3" wide, which works nicely for tubes over 1.5" diameter.http://www.dickblick.com/products/kraft-paper-tape...2" wide and even 1.5" wide tapes can be found on eBay and Walmart:htt…

Hi, about 20 years ago I wrote a pamphlet on making spiral-wound paper tubes, very similar to your methods. It's currently sold by Apogee Components: https://www.apogeerockets.com/Rocket_Books_Videos/...Like qdogg, I found that gummed kraft packing tape works best. It's often made from virgin kraft which is stronger than the recycled stuff. It doesn't wrinkle significantly (a BIG plus, let me tell you!). Tubes of almost any length can be made---cutting a strip of kraft paper more than 3-4 ft long with parallel edges is something of a chore. And it's quite cheap---$7 for a 600 foot roll of 3" wide, which works nicely for tubes over 1.5" diameter.http://www.dickblick.com/products/kraft-paper-tape...2" wide and even 1.5" wide tapes can be found on eBay and Walmart:https://www.walmart.com/ip/Pacon-Pre-Gummed-Self-A...A few hints from my own experience:--A layer of waxed paper, with ends scotch-taped to the mandrel, and/or a little talcum powder (talc, not cornstarch) makes it easier to get the tube off the mandrel. Careful: tape doesn't stick well to wax paper and it's easy to wrinkle the wax paper while winding.--As you pointed out, the tube shrinks when drying. For near-perfect sized tubes, use a double layer of waxed paper and talcum on the mandrel. Slide the finished tube off, a little more talc on the mandrel, then slide it back on to dry. Usually it will shrink to a tight but still-can-get-it-off fit. If it is still too tight, three layers of waxed paper.--Tubes much over 2' long may warp a bit after they're made. Winding layers in opposite directions helps some, though it's tedious.--For you rocketry nuts, 1/2" EMT conduit is just about right for 18 mm (BT-20) tubes. 3/4" EMT is a bit small for 24 mm (BT50) but can be built up with a few layers of tape. 1" conduit is about right for 29 mm tubes.

Had a woodworker friend make one for my wife's birthday. Wish I had had this 'ible back then, I'd have made it myself. Well done!For a bit of verisimilitude, wrap the rubber balls in a small disk of chamois (found in automotive department, used to wash/dry car) and tie around the drumstick with a thin leather strip or a string. Adds to the realism.

That looks wonderful! One question: what is Quark? I don't think we have it in the US.

My understanding is that twisting the wires and covering with electrical tape is only permitted by code if the wires are soldered/brazed/welded.

Be aware that some dial calipers have a knurled knob that, when loosened, allows the entire dial to rotate. Close the caliper, loosen the knob, rotate the dial so that the pointer is on zero. Tighten the knob. Of course, as you point out, this leaves the zero in a position other than 12 o'clock...

Please note: this Instructable says "chromate" in one place and "dichromate" in another. It should be "dichromate" according to the bottle in the first image.

I know this is an old 'ible but for the benefit of those who haven't read it before...Nozzles made with Durham's water putty work okay with "sugar" propellant and blackpowder. They do NOT work well with ammonium perchlorate composite propellant, especially if the propellant contains any metal as a fuel. Sugar propellants burn at about 3000F; APCP with aluminum, in excess of 5000F. And exhaust from APCP contains a lot of hydrogen chloride (hydrochloric acid= hydrogen chloride dissolved in water). You can imagine what 5000F hydrochloric acid does to almost anything...FWIW I have attempted nozzles for APCP motors using water putty, plaster of paris, portland cement, clay (molded to shape and kiln-fired before use), graphite powder mixed with epoxy, and a number of other material…

I know this is an old 'ible but for the benefit of those who haven't read it before...Nozzles made with Durham's water putty work okay with "sugar" propellant and blackpowder. They do NOT work well with ammonium perchlorate composite propellant, especially if the propellant contains any metal as a fuel. Sugar propellants burn at about 3000F; APCP with aluminum, in excess of 5000F. And exhaust from APCP contains a lot of hydrogen chloride (hydrochloric acid= hydrogen chloride dissolved in water). You can imagine what 5000F hydrochloric acid does to almost anything...FWIW I have attempted nozzles for APCP motors using water putty, plaster of paris, portland cement, clay (molded to shape and kiln-fired before use), graphite powder mixed with epoxy, and a number of other materials and mixtures. With APCP, fired clay erodes but not too badly if the propellant doesn't contain aluminum or magnesium. Graphite powder mixed with a resorcinol glue is about as good as commercial phenolic nozzles (e.g., Aerotech), though the glue shrinks a lot.Bottom line: for APCP, machined graphite is far and away the material of choice.Best regards -- Terry

It's a good idea to level the piece very carefully before pouring the resin, for an even coat.

I didn't get what this was at first from the thumbnail, but...INGENIOUS! Well done!

You can purchase left-hand drill bit sets with corresponding screw extractors. The bit cuts in the opposite direction of a normal drill bit; sometimes, just drilling into the screw with a left-hand bit will remove it. If not...that's what the extractor is for. Check out eBay:http://www.ebay.com/itm/10PC-SCREW-EXTRACTOR-EASY-OUT-LEFT-HAND-DRILL-BIT-/290556839769?hash=item43a6898759:g:Vf8AAOSwepJXYJOR

Simple and very useful! Commercial 'trammel points' are rather expensive; this is a great alternative!

VERY nicely done and illustrated, and a beautiful project! (Personal opinion: All too many Instructables have only a video. I know they're easiest to prepare but they simply can't tell the whole story. I no longer even bother to view the video-only Instructables. SO glad to see detailed photos instead!)

Nicely done!A suggestion: aluminum beverage cans are made by pressing in stages:http://www.my.all.biz/img/my/catalog/25321.jpegI don't know how practical it would be to make an intermediate die of shallower depth...Also, the aluminum and die are well-lubricated before pressing. Might cut down on the tearing.

Marvelous! Time for me to dig out a chunk of aluminum from my scrap box and get to work! Thank you!!

Grog is already-fired clay. You can make grog by grinding up ordinary ceramic flowerpots.

As someone who had back surgery a couple of years ago...thank you! If we get snow this year I'll definitely try this.

Nicely done! I can see a practical advantage to this gadget. When the roll runs out, you still have the paper that's running on the spindles to use; it'll do until you can get another roll.

Black raspberry flavor is way above either blackberries or red raspberries. I have a few quarts of frozen Pennsylvania wild black raspberries that my sister gave me a couple of months ago. Looking forward to making your recipe!

X-rays only. Gamma rays and beta particles are from nuclear decay.

Here's a typical recipe. Buttermilk is a cultured product, similar to but thinner than yogurt. http://www.food.com/recipe/southern-buttermilk-biscuits-26110