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  • Rahere commented on Biotele's instructable Ganzfeld: Hack Your Brain the Legal Way4 months ago
    Ganzfeld: Hack Your Brain the Legal Way

    The hassle here is that the full study takes hours, and paper doesn't stand up to that much wear - the shrinks get some experience in it and don't go for hard shells for nothing.Having played with a custom fit for me, and being a swimmer, I have close-fitting goggles around the house. Cutting a ball in half along the seam is only the first step - you can see out of the sides, and so, comparing it with the curve of eye goggles which fit me, I need about 3mm more off top and bottom. To get this, I simply removed the straps off a pair of goggles, put them lens side down on the table to act as templates, and put the halved balls inside. You can then mark the inside point of the ball (for future reference when you place the finished product against your nose), trace the curve, and cut furthe...

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    The hassle here is that the full study takes hours, and paper doesn't stand up to that much wear - the shrinks get some experience in it and don't go for hard shells for nothing.Having played with a custom fit for me, and being a swimmer, I have close-fitting goggles around the house. Cutting a ball in half along the seam is only the first step - you can see out of the sides, and so, comparing it with the curve of eye goggles which fit me, I need about 3mm more off top and bottom. To get this, I simply removed the straps off a pair of goggles, put them lens side down on the table to act as templates, and put the halved balls inside. You can then mark the inside point of the ball (for future reference when you place the finished product against your nose), trace the curve, and cut further.Then there's the question of holding the shells you get in place - anything outside of the ball affects the colour integrity you're after. SD means giving the brain no references whatsoever to latch onto. At the moment, I've got the shells inside an Aquasphere mask, which is a tad tight still - the edges cut in a little. I'll most likely run a rim of silicone sealant around the edges to make them slightly wider.I already find different colours produce different reactions. Pinks and reds certainly recall our initial conscious experiences in the womb. Blues are easiest to drop into trace with - I'm an advanced meditative.

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  • Rahere commented on Not_Tasha's instructable PVC Niddy Noddy5 months ago
    PVC Niddy Noddy

    I knew a Zuid Afrikaans mining engineer once who used to play frisbee with a steel hubcap. Survival skills, I suppose.

    Leave one end cap off, it makes it far easier to remove the skein.The idea of the thing is that your spun yarn won't have the same tension, as you're doing a thousand different things while spinning. Watching the feed rate in your right hand, which is also opening up the feed stock (rolag, or whatever) so the index finger and thumb can release of brake as needed, feeling for the twist in your left hand so you know it's spinning up at a decent rate, and running it down towards your right hand if you think the feed's got a bit thin and weak, perhaps adding a little more spin if you're uncertain (while keeping a firm grip in the right hand to stop twist getting into the feed stock), and perhaps fussing with some of the feed supply which has clearly decided it would prefer not to have too m...

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    Leave one end cap off, it makes it far easier to remove the skein.The idea of the thing is that your spun yarn won't have the same tension, as you're doing a thousand different things while spinning. Watching the feed rate in your right hand, which is also opening up the feed stock (rolag, or whatever) so the index finger and thumb can release of brake as needed, feeling for the twist in your left hand so you know it's spinning up at a decent rate, and running it down towards your right hand if you think the feed's got a bit thin and weak, perhaps adding a little more spin if you're uncertain (while keeping a firm grip in the right hand to stop twist getting into the feed stock), and perhaps fussing with some of the feed supply which has clearly decided it would prefer not to have too much to do with being spun and would far prefer to do it's own thing on the floor, and - damn, that bit's noily, so let's reverse a sec and sort it - and, and, and...Skeining it off allows the fibres to settle - I actually leave it a day on the niddy-noddy because there's a perceptible settling which happens, before I remove it and twist it into a skein. Also, don't forget a paper strip with a description of what wool it is and when you spun it.

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  • Rahere commented on meralgia's instructable $50 Drum Carder (for Combing Fibers)6 months ago
    $50 Drum Carder (for Combing Fibers)

    To make a cheap centre-finder, buy four 45 degree kid's set-square triangles. Position three of them so their 90 degree apexes meet, and glue them together so there's a V-space the cap can fit into. Then glue the last on top of the others, so the 45-degree angle bisects the V-space, stood off just a tad. Running a marker down the edge of where it bisects the V finds a diameter of the pipe: where 2 diameters intersect is the centre, so shift it around and you'll see where to drill the hole.

    The slicker is an extra brush running just above the licker-in. To my eye, most producers retask a length of draft-proofing brush, secured to a batten with pivot arms at the end to lift it clear wnen removing the batt.

    8" hdpe pipes and end caps are about as large as they go. An 8" pipe has a circumference of just a tad over 25", less 1" for the doffing gap, so you're looking for 24" fabric of whatever width. Howard Brush Outlet in Maine advertise a choice of different tooth spacings on Etsy, dependent on the fibre you intend carding - if others stock replacement carding fabrics, it would be good to know. Doing it this way means you have the same choice of spacings you'd look for in different cards, and still keep within the price of a made-up machine...In addition to that, using a thin brass shiv to really cover the ends of the fabric also gives something for the doffer to work against. I'd suggest 2x 1/2" strips, 1/8" thick, drilled and countersunk at 1" inter...

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    8" hdpe pipes and end caps are about as large as they go. An 8" pipe has a circumference of just a tad over 25", less 1" for the doffing gap, so you're looking for 24" fabric of whatever width. Howard Brush Outlet in Maine advertise a choice of different tooth spacings on Etsy, dependent on the fibre you intend carding - if others stock replacement carding fabrics, it would be good to know. Doing it this way means you have the same choice of spacings you'd look for in different cards, and still keep within the price of a made-up machine...In addition to that, using a thin brass shiv to really cover the ends of the fabric also gives something for the doffer to work against. I'd suggest 2x 1/2" strips, 1/8" thick, drilled and countersunk at 1" intervals, for flat-head CS screws, about M4 size.

    The classic design has a 1" gap, or thereabouts, between the ends of the cloth when it's wrapped around the drum. This is for the "doffing" puller to run through - it separates the fibres wrapped around the drum at that point, rather than cutting them, so the sheet can be lifted off in a single batt (the name for that form of drum carded fibre)

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  • Rahere commented on WilliamBottini's instructable Make Your Own Shoes at Home!7 months ago
    Make Your Own Shoes at Home!

    Technically, what you're doing is adding what are sometimes called gaiters or spats, from the 18/19th century. Using calico to shape a pattern from, work from the seam line at the rear of the calf, shaping to the shin, and allow for a slight amount of extra thickness along the shin line for a lacing reinforcement piece. Finally, transfer the pattern to a lining material, and allowing just a little more, the real gaiter. Don't forget to allow for a tongue as well.

    Avoid hole punchers, as they use a metal anvil which blunts them quickly. For a similar price you can get a small set of punches, which are used into leather on softwood. as an anvil.

    The headache here will be releasing the foot. It may be easier to do it in stages, not forgetting to place greased register dowels to ensure the parts match when reassembling to cast. Use polythene film and vaseline to stop adhesion to the parts already moulded.

    It doesn't work, because feet also increase in volume as they get longer. In my case, I have both wide and high feet, from rather a wild adoescence which allowed them to grow as they wanted (not for me the AA sizes caused by what's not much different from Chinese foot binding).

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  • Creating a Costume/Cosplay From E.V.A Foam

    As far as scissors are concerned, use the heavier-weight Chinese shears, rather than dress-making scissors. They're easy to sharpen by hand, as long as you work from the top of the blade towards the edge: don't use cheap sharpening steels because if you bevel the cutting faces, they'll stop working so well. Effectively a scissors works by leverage, the faces of the blades meet on a flat surface, allowing nowhere for the material in between to go other than to separate in a cut. You need to protect that surface, so you sharpen towards it, not away from it or into it - any sharpening removes a very small amount of the tool material.

    Cheaper still when it comes to chipping, use flour paste: it absorbs the paint better, and really is dirt cheap - just add a drop of water to flour and roll it into a thick paste. Mustard's actually just a more expensive kind of crushed grain.

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  • Rahere commented on Core3D's instructable Upgrading 3D Printer From 12 to 24 Volt11 months ago
    Upgrading 3D Printer From 12 to 24 Volt

    Actually, remember the old adage, it's the volts that jolt, but the amps which cramp. One of the secondary benefits of AC (the primary being far lower attenuation in distribution) is that AC throws staying hands off, and the higher the voltage,, the stonger the kick - you may have a pulled or torn muscle, but you'll suurvive. It's the amps involved which do the cooking, the cellular damage to your core.

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  • Rahere commented on Make Everything's instructable Leather Embossing With a 3D Printer!11 months ago
    Leather Embossing With a 3D Printer!

    Damping the leather down opens the grain so it'll hold the stamp pattern when it dries. That ONLY works with veg tanned leather, it does NOT work with chrome tans - and if it doesn't say, test it with a drop of water - you will see a serious darkening where the water's taken it in. Don't worry, it'll evapourate and the leather then returns to a normal colour.And soon you'll discover the world of shaders and veiners, and all of the weird and wonderful takes on Victorian aspidistras...and stains to darker the hollows, and highlighters, and your workbench ends up looking like the missus' makeup bag, just a tad gentler. I swear she keeps a mallet around there somewhere...

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  • Rahere commented on antibromide's instructable Playboy Bunny - Full Costume1 year ago
    Playboy Bunny - Full Costume

    For large pompoms, the weight can get rather excessive for the wool used ib the anchoring loop, which is why it keeps coming loose. It may be a better plan to use light nylon cord in the same colour (white) for that, instead of wool, and to braid it up before cutting the circles free. That then gives you something far more substantial to sew onto the main work, in this case the suit.To do that, use two separate strands around the body of the wool in the centre of the cardboard circles. That then gives you four cord strands to the outside, which you can braid into a flat ribbon - just make certain the ends are quite long, so use cords up to ten times the radius of the ball, as braiding eats up thread. If you've used a nylon polyester cord, heat-seal the ends using an old knife blade heat...

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    For large pompoms, the weight can get rather excessive for the wool used ib the anchoring loop, which is why it keeps coming loose. It may be a better plan to use light nylon cord in the same colour (white) for that, instead of wool, and to braid it up before cutting the circles free. That then gives you something far more substantial to sew onto the main work, in this case the suit.To do that, use two separate strands around the body of the wool in the centre of the cardboard circles. That then gives you four cord strands to the outside, which you can braid into a flat ribbon - just make certain the ends are quite long, so use cords up to ten times the radius of the ball, as braiding eats up thread. If you've used a nylon polyester cord, heat-seal the ends using an old knife blade heated in a flame (I keep one just for this, it's a work of art all of itself, there are so many colours annealed into the blade), and sew to the costume.To braid with four threads, simply lay them flat, and take the left one and weave it over-under-over to the tight hand side. Repeat until you have enough length. If you want to be really pernickety (it's not necessary here) you start with a half-weave, lifting the third over the fourth first, and finish similarly, with the first just passing over the second. When you cut the ends short, the knife melts the nylon, so encourage the melted plastic into a solid line across the braid, to really hold everything in place. The knife doesn't actually have to be that hot, in fact, you get a better finish from one which is just knife-through-butter rather than something glowing cherry-red.

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  • Custom Full-ear Silicone Earpieces Via the Magic of Sugru!

    Another approach is the more classic 3-stager, using Shapelock to mould the outer ear, which is then machined to fit the plug. It's hard, though, so form a negative mould from the old-style mix of talc avd silicove, avd finally go for the final mould in Sugru from that. It also gives you several goes from one moulding

    Don't forget a lot of the firearm sound is percussive blast rather than true sound, so it also travels along bone, circumventing the plugs, which may even make it worse. This is why we use softer foam.

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  • Rahere commented on LittleVixen's instructable Horse Tail Tutorial2 years ago
    Horse Tail Tutorial

    As a member of the International Guild of Knot Tyers, I'd recommend unlaying that rope being careful not to release the twist in each chord - just lift it away. That way you can lay it back together again so the metal's buried in the centre of the rope.

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  • Rahere commented on rachel's instructable Articulated Wing Framework2 years ago
    Articulated Wing Framework

    JFDI as told. What you wear under the pack frame is up to you, the torsion on the frame from that weight and distance may be considerable, and break spine spurs if carried directly on the bones as a corset does, causing permanent disaility.

    Stitching or contact cement - or both

    Seven Archangels, Michael, Raphael, Gabriel, Uriel, Saraqael, Raguel, and RemielAdd a tensor stop within the wing an inch or so below one hinge to limit it's spread. All you need is to screw a short piece of elastic to limit the throw, or wire and a catch.

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