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Well done build and great viedeo and write up. In reference toe wood rasps, I've been using auriou rasps for a while. While they are pricey, they are worth it. These rasps are hand cut in France. Hand stitching results in an uneven grain pattern and leaves the wood without any grooves. Search on Google and you'll find several sources. I recomend the smaller modelers rasp for fine work like you have on the alrady planed surfaces you are working on. The rougher ones are great for shaping.
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mdheath, you are a great craftsman and thank you very much for sharing. I'm thinking seriously about trying you technique.I also wonder (as wrecks 135 does) about the expansion/shrinkage difference of the concrete and wood. I'm thinking it's best to get the moisture content very low in the wood to avoid shrinkage. But then when it expands, might the expansion crack the concrete or shrinkage cause the wood to buckle?Could you share your thoughts or experiences on this topic?Thank you very much and great work!
I'd like to add some additional thoughts to my input below....1. If you don't have the tools Stephan has...this would be a great opportunity to meet/work with a neighbor who does. 2. If you decide to use the Pocket hole technique I mentioned..... you can substitute 1X2's and 2X2's and avoid the rip cutting which Stephan does. This way everything can be bought at the store and all you need is a handheld electric drill to assemble.
Hi...very nice job and great photo's and explanation. I would like to comment on MadMax input below. While yes a big box store will make the cuts for you, the joint design will have to be modified. StephanP1 designed the table with mortise and tenon joints. An alternate would be to use Pocket Hole screw (such as the Kreg system). If you do, then all dimensions should be shortened the length of the tenons. Good luck to all...