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RobertD235

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  • RobertD235 commented on runciblefish's instructable Leather Field Bag6 weeks ago
    Leather Field Bag

    My bag was pretty much square cornered one with piece sides and perimeter. . I allowed a little extra length for the permitter connecting seam...also put in a full length zippered slash pocket on one side... Used a 7-8 hole punch for all of mine... If I made another would probably round the corners, and using a 3 hole chisel punch for the corner seam holes.. I've got lots or leather specific tools and made a lot of different stuff. Most crude or basic by most craft standards...but eventually wears in nice...

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  • RobertD235 commented on runciblefish's instructable Leather Field Bag6 weeks ago
    Leather Field Bag

    I made an Airline carry on size bag soft suitcase with much heavier leather, with a 2-3" expansion panel, No pattern other than a dimension drawing and sewn with a speedy stitcher ..... Apart from measuring and cutting tools to make sure the parts were sized properly etc, The most essential tool being multihole punch's for stitching and seam alignment and couldn't sew it easy without prepunching the holes...I didn't skive anything to make edges thinner.. As long as make the same amount of required holes for the mating seams, everything usually lines up. I.Might have had the expansion zippers not quite line up due to problems handling while sewing...and because cloth mount doesn't take punch holes to keep aligned.. The prep work probably takes as much time to sew, once get into t...

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    I made an Airline carry on size bag soft suitcase with much heavier leather, with a 2-3" expansion panel, No pattern other than a dimension drawing and sewn with a speedy stitcher ..... Apart from measuring and cutting tools to make sure the parts were sized properly etc, The most essential tool being multihole punch's for stitching and seam alignment and couldn't sew it easy without prepunching the holes...I didn't skive anything to make edges thinner.. As long as make the same amount of required holes for the mating seams, everything usually lines up. I.Might have had the expansion zippers not quite line up due to problems handling while sewing...and because cloth mount doesn't take punch holes to keep aligned.. The prep work probably takes as much time to sew, once get into the rhythm of it, Stitching can go pretty fast,,, I hardly remember the time I must have put into sewing it....But probably took me more than a week of all my free evening time to make mine.. A bag like the one in this post could probably be sewn up in a evening once the prep work is done...

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  • RobertD235 commented on jef400dread's instructable Rocket Stove V33 months ago
    Rocket Stove V3

    I'm alway looking at rocket stoves,,, mostly to figure out how could convert or make some kind of wood stove more efficient... .This seems to be the most common type of Rocket stove Design... but I can't really see it as a real rocket stove... I could get the rocket effect every time I cleaned my standard wood stove because made for more air getting under the fuel... This style rocket stove not much different and essentially just an efficient fuel burner... and as made of concrete and heavy would probably be better to have the air intake level for easier cleaning...(and the same as most other designs maintaining the angled fuel feed.. unless built a pullout ashtray...) The concrete design also suited for some kind of heat exchanger but in your size probably require to much fuel to w...

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    I'm alway looking at rocket stoves,,, mostly to figure out how could convert or make some kind of wood stove more efficient... .This seems to be the most common type of Rocket stove Design... but I can't really see it as a real rocket stove... I could get the rocket effect every time I cleaned my standard wood stove because made for more air getting under the fuel... This style rocket stove not much different and essentially just an efficient fuel burner... and as made of concrete and heavy would probably be better to have the air intake level for easier cleaning...(and the same as most other designs maintaining the angled fuel feed.. unless built a pullout ashtray...) The concrete design also suited for some kind of heat exchanger but in your size probably require to much fuel to with the exhaust straight up the chimney I think the Rocket Mass burner design is probably better but more complex...that uses a double chamber chimney... that in effect might be compared to a 2 stoke gasoline engine expansion chamber scavenging exhaust for more efficient burning and heat not going straight up the chimney.. This also similar to wood gas burner generators.. For converting wood stoves the best idea I can see so far without complex modifications, is adding a top plate over the fire box that blocks direct exhaust up the chimney... That also seems similar to how some pellet stoves and best air tight wood heaters are made.. Eventually might start working on my vintage pot belly stove design that the centre section is a water chamber .

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  • Heat-Powered Stove Top Fan W/ Salvaged Parts

    I read somewhere online about dielectric grease and it specific for preventing or protecting from heat transfer and or also to protect from corrosion, and not as a grounding assistant,I always thought it was for enhancing conductivity but only does by protecting from moisture, corrosion where contacts might not be tight The stuff used in automotive distributors is supposed to be different, specific for heat transfer but when replacing similar modules on heat sinks anywhere it usually advised to just use dielectric grease, if can't get the OEM stuff.. As previously noted. I use the white stuff because just looks the same, but use the brown black stuff on extension cord plugs I've had out in the weather for years or other plugs.. .It appears it doesn't conduct, otherwise some of my plugs...

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    I read somewhere online about dielectric grease and it specific for preventing or protecting from heat transfer and or also to protect from corrosion, and not as a grounding assistant,I always thought it was for enhancing conductivity but only does by protecting from moisture, corrosion where contacts might not be tight The stuff used in automotive distributors is supposed to be different, specific for heat transfer but when replacing similar modules on heat sinks anywhere it usually advised to just use dielectric grease, if can't get the OEM stuff.. As previously noted. I use the white stuff because just looks the same, but use the brown black stuff on extension cord plugs I've had out in the weather for years or other plugs.. .It appears it doesn't conduct, otherwise some of my plugs would have shorted out from having too much on them.. While a petrolium grease might have and it noted vasoline has the same properties and near the same performance . I'd be inclined to stay away from petrolium products in a high heat application and go with the stuff that is... I think I saw to use Vasoline on battery terminals also to keep them from corroding, but other greases might work the same

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  • Heat-Powered Stove Top Fan W/ Salvaged Parts

    Dielectric grease, white type is similar to what auto manufacturers use in ignition distributors and is easier to find than heat type grease and supposedly works near the same available at most auto parts stores or anywhere that sells hardware.Vaseline also supposedly works, but might melt out.. Model airplane propellers an alternative to making one... Or for something that doesn't end up looking like a motor. make the heat power transfer unit to power a computer cooling fan.. many are 5-12v. .(and as long as it mentioned salvaging parts from old computers..but desk top might be useless if have 110-120v ones... .) or even as a battery charger... The peltier units also have various voltage and amp output voltages and might need more or less of them for required power for want ever moto...

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    Dielectric grease, white type is similar to what auto manufacturers use in ignition distributors and is easier to find than heat type grease and supposedly works near the same available at most auto parts stores or anywhere that sells hardware.Vaseline also supposedly works, but might melt out.. Model airplane propellers an alternative to making one... Or for something that doesn't end up looking like a motor. make the heat power transfer unit to power a computer cooling fan.. many are 5-12v. .(and as long as it mentioned salvaging parts from old computers..but desk top might be useless if have 110-120v ones... .) or even as a battery charger... The peltier units also have various voltage and amp output voltages and might need more or less of them for required power for want ever motor fan running..Might need to also find a voltage regulator of some sort, or might burn out the motors.. What ever peltier unit needed They appear Cheap to buy and relative to cost of buying something prebuilt,... and it easy to build one using the same principles described here..I'm hoping to eventually build one for my various heaters,, could also build one for taking camping... tent use.. The only place I've ever seen these was in boat parts supply stores and are expensive relative to what look like cost to build.. An entire unit or all parts could be salvaged from 12v portable coolers. If weren't trashed because something in them stopped working. A lot of them gone to the trash or thrift stores because use too much power to practically be used or were rarely used.

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  • DIY 2G/3G/4G wireless cell phone signal booster

    Thanks, I just built one for use with a mobile wifi hotspot, that had such lousy reception, most often couldn't load more than 2 webpages without it timing out or getting constant server errors, (despite indication getting 80-100% signal) and having to turn it off and on again to get it to work for that or each time, It's still slow, but so far getting less error messages, or quickly loads a timed out page when retrying My cable is near 40' hanging outside on a 12" tall TV antenna, on top of a Motorhome so 20' + high. I soldered the connections, (not very well) but only to one wire hanger piece,(that is outside) using a piece of the left over cable shielding for the metallic shield bridge (of which I don't see much detail about in the instructions) My other end is just th...

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    Thanks, I just built one for use with a mobile wifi hotspot, that had such lousy reception, most often couldn't load more than 2 webpages without it timing out or getting constant server errors, (despite indication getting 80-100% signal) and having to turn it off and on again to get it to work for that or each time, It's still slow, but so far getting less error messages, or quickly loads a timed out page when retrying My cable is near 40' hanging outside on a 12" tall TV antenna, on top of a Motorhome so 20' + high. I soldered the connections, (not very well) but only to one wire hanger piece,(that is outside) using a piece of the left over cable shielding for the metallic shield bridge (of which I don't see much detail about in the instructions) My other end is just the coiled wire taped to beck of my mobile wifi hotspot unit....as seen in another version of this to the back of a cell phone , (I used 7 coils on both ends ) I might eventually try attaching the other wire hanger to it, either soldering or some other method... Looks like could just make the wire core longer and wrap around both those inside ends of the wire hanger unit. secure by zap straps or better to clean and solder it ....if not some of the solder that comes in a glue tube form.

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