RudyD1

Forgot to mention my own instructable : https://www.instructables.com/id/Building-Homie-De...Step 2 is about DHT22 for temperature / humidity.I still have to work on an extensive instructable regarding https://github.com/marvinroger/homie-esp8266This is a framework to build IoT devices connecting to a MQTT server.

Very clean assembly! Looks like there are just as many ways as people trying to do this :)Thanks for sharing your repository, this can prove useful for people targeting an ESP8266 (including me to some extends).

Hi, nice tip, thanks I wasn't aware of such issue!

Hi, thanks for sharing!An ESP8266 was indeed an option, see tip section we started a short discussion earlier today.Note to myself: Invest in a proper soldering station, very neat build!

Hello Trike,I actually found an article using 2 magnets on the chain, near the motor. I also liked that approach but ordered the switches before finding that :-)You can have a look at this Arduino based article, not sure however if a RPi has the precision required for "pulses" between strips to have direction/RPM. As a rul of thumb, my door takes 12.5 seconds for full course. At some point that is why I had that "middle" position in the UI.https://www.megunolink.com/articles/arduino-garage...On my TODO list is "learn to design 3D printed parts" :-)Thanks for your feedback, always good developing around ideas!

Hi Stan, thanks for your interest!NodeMCU / ultrasonic was indeed a solution. However I had a RPi around and wanted to use it in my garage (next to networking equipment). This is why I used it. Final target was to use it for home automation .I had a look at PiDome (https://twitter.com/pi_dome), now Home Assistant (https://home-assistant.io/hassio/).In a perfect world I'd be happy to use more simple D1 Mini boards (similar to NodeMCU, I actually own a few NodeMCU but bought a few different models from Ali Express). Ultra sonic sensor was an option but lakes a precise reading for "fully closed" / "fully opened" vs "slightly opened", for instance to let some fresh air flows when doing wood working.To link all these I'm having a look at Homie for ESP8266 frame...

Hi Stan, thanks for your interest!NodeMCU / ultrasonic was indeed a solution. However I had a RPi around and wanted to use it in my garage (next to networking equipment). This is why I used it. Final target was to use it for home automation .I had a look at PiDome (https://twitter.com/pi_dome), now Home Assistant (https://home-assistant.io/hassio/).In a perfect world I'd be happy to use more simple D1 Mini boards (similar to NodeMCU, I actually own a few NodeMCU but bought a few different models from Ali Express). Ultra sonic sensor was an option but lakes a precise reading for "fully closed" / "fully opened" vs "slightly opened", for instance to let some fresh air flows when doing wood working.To link all these I'm having a look at Homie for ESP8266 framework (https://github.com/marvinroger/homie-esp8266), this is very promising but I'm still lacking time to investigate, especially regarding IR controlled HVAC units.Please see my other 'able : https://www.instructables.com/id/Building-Homie-De...

Hello Ralph,Thanks for your comment!I always say I like being lazy, this makes me look around for tips and tricks and eventually enhance some stuff.Hope this'll help you, don't hesitate to hang around!

Hello, Good point. I still have to write that part of my instructable. However I've successfully used a relay board driven by a Raspberry Pi in another project. The trick is that the board has 3 wires : VCC, GND and signal. The VCC is directly connected to the 5V pin of the RPi while signal comes from a regular digital pin. This provides both the required voltage to operate the relay and a safe connection from the controller. You can find below: 1/ A random module of that kind : https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1-road-relay-modules-with-optical-coupling-isolation-fully-compatible-with-3-3-V-and-5/32355065560.html 2/ My RPi setup using such board : https://github.com/amayii0/GarageOpenerR1/wiki#fritzing-schematics 3/ If not using a module, this schema based on transistor should do the t...

Hello, Good point. I still have to write that part of my instructable. However I've successfully used a relay board driven by a Raspberry Pi in another project. The trick is that the board has 3 wires : VCC, GND and signal. The VCC is directly connected to the 5V pin of the RPi while signal comes from a regular digital pin. This provides both the required voltage to operate the relay and a safe connection from the controller. You can find below: 1/ A random module of that kind : https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1-road-relay-modules-with-optical-coupling-isolation-fully-compatible-with-3-3-V-and-5/32355065560.html 2/ My RPi setup using such board : https://github.com/amayii0/GarageOpenerR1/wiki#fritzing-schematics 3/ If not using a module, this schema based on transistor should do the trick : https://electronics.stackexchange.com/a/255977

Good idea, however as I actually built two, I wanted that to be flexible.Now if that's a wireless Xbox controller, this makes a wireless Neo Geo controller I guess, sweet :)

Hi mosix,I had a look at OpenHAB but preferred PiDome GUI.Note that I'm making efforts mainly on devices using MQTT (thus Homie for ESP8266 involvement).For the time being, it is more a personal preference. I'll probably work on a deeper instructable for this matter. However I feel like OpenHAB is slightly more complex when dealing with automation rules.Final note, I'm also trying to use a RPi as much as possible since it is already available (and underused) for the Garage Opener.