RudyD1

Also Belgian and I can't agree more.Please peel them.Never reheat, ever :-)This Instructable is actually about restoring truth about so-called "French" fries.

Thanks for tip, I was pretty there was something similar related.I made a few tests with my encoder, easiest is to get the +5V from the USB line directly.

Hello Nicolas,Sorry I don't know. However the encoder appears as a regular joypad in Windows.Knowning that, if you are able to already connect a regular joypad to your xbox, it should work.I found out that adapters exist to plug USB devices to the Xbox controller port, if you have one, you should know pretty soon if it's ok!Regards

Good luck! Chances are indeed pretty high :)

Making sense indeed.Instead of cutting tracks, you can try swapping wires. The connecter should be ok to unmount.About the +5V, with controller plugged and USB unplugged, try a continuity test between DSUB +5V and one of the button's wire.Well, try anything about continuity to find out where that "ON" states come from.PS: I'm not native English speaker neither, no problem :-D

From what I found, there are known issues for gamepads caused by oxidation.There is a capacitor inside the gamepad, they often leak and corrode the PCB. That can be replaced for extra safety.I feel like you'll have to disassemble the joypad to find out what's wrong inside.Good luck!Please see these videos :

OK thanks : I just don't know :-OI've tested yesterday my encoder for the 4 plugs on the right, the MODE / TURBO / CLEAR / AUTO.Can you try these? I've added some notes in my instructable's images.My board seems to work such that :- Mode : Switches (from Windows joy.cpl) between dpad and point of view (So I can't use a single encoder to support 2 sticks)- Turbo & Auto : Turbo makes fast presses for a button, Auto does it without pressing button. Turbo/Auto is enabled when pressing both the Turbo/Auto key and a button- Clear : Same as Turbo/Auto but to disable the turbo/auto (press clear + button)The onboard D1/D2 LEDs are showing state of Mode / Turbo / Auto.For my board:- D1 (red) is for power on, regular mode (no POV, no Turbo, no Auto)- D2 (green) is when POV is activeBoth will f...

OK thanks : I just don't know :-OI've tested yesterday my encoder for the 4 plugs on the right, the MODE / TURBO / CLEAR / AUTO.Can you try these? I've added some notes in my instructable's images.My board seems to work such that :- Mode : Switches (from Windows joy.cpl) between dpad and point of view (So I can't use a single encoder to support 2 sticks)- Turbo & Auto : Turbo makes fast presses for a button, Auto does it without pressing button. Turbo/Auto is enabled when pressing both the Turbo/Auto key and a button- Clear : Same as Turbo/Auto but to disable the turbo/auto (press clear + button)The onboard D1/D2 LEDs are showing state of Mode / Turbo / Auto.For my board:- D1 (red) is for power on, regular mode (no POV, no Turbo, no Auto)- D2 (green) is when POV is activeBoth will flash if a button is using Turbo / Auto and is pressed (automatically for Auto, manually for Turbo).Maybe the blackmagic's there, but I feel like your pad is working another way.A tip might be to wire the +5V pin (and try that pin using multimeter instead of GND).

You're welcome, that's also a joy about sharing, I'm also learning :-)I added a new step dedicated to this topic.

Looks like it's actually done right :-OYour encoder indeed has common GND on outer pins too.From what I found about the joypad, it should be compatible with joystick.My only last options are to ask:1/ Is it the same if you plug one button at a time to the encoder?2/ Do you have a multimeter? If yes, with GND to multimeter, are each buttons' pin beeping or some? Showing that a button si actually pressed for some reason?3/ Was the pad hacked? Maybe check internal PCB?4/ If you have access to another controller, is it same result?5/ Are the 4 directions of stick working ok?6/ I'm not sure from the pic, but can you confirm pinout? Like not inverting pins GND/VCC on DB-25 side? They look fine, but who knows :-ORegards

Extra note, you shouldn't need to wire two GND from pcb to connector. That ain't having any effect I think. Let's see back of pcb:)

Hi, wiring should be fine.Can you please take a close-up of the back of the pcb? I'd like to check how they wired the common ground.Thanks!

Hi,I've integrated the PCB layout as "Step 3: Connecting the D-Sub to the Encoder Board".So in short, for the board illustrated, you have to cut all outer wires except one for common ground.

Hello,So yes you must swap wires of the buttons. On attached image you see that on external side of the board, all buttons have one common connection (between the 2 yellow marks). You don't want to connect to that one. That is why all buttons appear as pressed (they are connected to external common line).

Oh and please post some pictures :)

I feel like you've swapped the common ground and power pins of the buttons. Try using the other cable for each button.If you unplug them from the encoder, do they turn off?You can also try to "press buttons" by using a screwdriver and shorting the pins for each button directly on the encoder board.

You're welcome, give it a try and let us know the results.Don't hesitate to attach screenshots or pictures! :-)

Hi, I've had time this week-end to update wiring section. Please have a look!

Hi,Yes 1-15 are the pins of the original game controller (from game cable or DB15 connector from your adapter).I've updated the wiring chapter.I'll also add a new chapter for setup in WinKawaks for reference.

Thanks for your comment, indeed I haven't gone in deep regarding that part. I'll create an update to include details for wiring and setup in Windows!

This sites explains that (but yes I had too google it) : http://www.woodbridge.co.uk/clsCLS (Canadian Lumber Standard)CLS is used primarily in timber frame home construction and for internal and partition walls. The product originated for the Canadian market – hence its name.The CLS we stock is: Taken from Spruce (Whitewood). Graded in accordance with British Standards to either C16 or C24 grade. Kiln-dried, planed and finished with eased edges. Imported from a range of countries.Available Stock SizesThe following sizes are held in “C16 & Better” grade, with an option on 50 x 100/150 being brought in as “C24” only.50 x 75 (fin. 38 x 63mm)50 x 85 (fin. 38 x 75mm)50 x 100 (fin. 38 x 95mm)50 x 150 (fin. 38 x 140mm)The following sizes are held in “C24” grade.50 x 100 (fin. 38 x 89mm)5...

This sites explains that (but yes I had too google it) : http://www.woodbridge.co.uk/clsCLS (Canadian Lumber Standard)CLS is used primarily in timber frame home construction and for internal and partition walls. The product originated for the Canadian market – hence its name.The CLS we stock is: Taken from Spruce (Whitewood). Graded in accordance with British Standards to either C16 or C24 grade. Kiln-dried, planed and finished with eased edges. Imported from a range of countries.Available Stock SizesThe following sizes are held in “C16 & Better” grade, with an option on 50 x 100/150 being brought in as “C24” only.50 x 75 (fin. 38 x 63mm)50 x 85 (fin. 38 x 75mm)50 x 100 (fin. 38 x 95mm)50 x 150 (fin. 38 x 140mm)The following sizes are held in “C24” grade.50 x 100 (fin. 38 x 89mm)50 x 150 (fin. 38 x 140mm)50 x 200 (fin. 38 x 184mm)50 x 250 (fin. 38 x 235mm)47 x 200 (fin. 44 x 194mm)47 x 225 (fin. 44 x 219mm)Main lengths for ‘standard’ CLS are 2.4m and 4.8m, though lengths ranging from 2.4m to 6.0m are available.

As a Belgian living in Belgium, please note there are actually two kinds of Belgian waffles:- The ones from Liège as you described, except that usually the iron does not have that cross in the middle. They are a lot heavier and usually not a perfect rectangle or square.- The ones from Brussels that are rectangular and a lot "lighter". Well except if you pour a lot of icing sugar on top and an extra run of whipped cream :-) They are pretty popular with strawberries too!You can grab some recipes from the french speaking site "Marmiton": Search at Marmiton siteJust to be complete, you also find waffles in France, at "Lille". This is a city very close to the Belgian border. They are thinner and stuffed.French keywords: "Gaufres de Liège", "Gaufre...

As a Belgian living in Belgium, please note there are actually two kinds of Belgian waffles:- The ones from Liège as you described, except that usually the iron does not have that cross in the middle. They are a lot heavier and usually not a perfect rectangle or square.- The ones from Brussels that are rectangular and a lot "lighter". Well except if you pour a lot of icing sugar on top and an extra run of whipped cream :-) They are pretty popular with strawberries too!You can grab some recipes from the french speaking site "Marmiton": Search at Marmiton siteJust to be complete, you also find waffles in France, at "Lille". This is a city very close to the Belgian border. They are thinner and stuffed.French keywords: "Gaufres de Liège", "Gaufres de Bruxelles" and "Gaufres de Lille".Enjoy!NB: French fries are actually from Belgium too :-)

Forgot to mention my own instructable : https://www.instructables.com/id/Building-Homie-De...Step 2 is about DHT22 for temperature / humidity.I still have to work on an extensive instructable regarding https://github.com/marvinroger/homie-esp8266This is a framework to build IoT devices connecting to a MQTT server.

Very clean assembly! Looks like there are just as many ways as people trying to do this :)Thanks for sharing your repository, this can prove useful for people targeting an ESP8266 (including me to some extends).

Hi, nice tip, thanks I wasn't aware of such issue!

Hi, thanks for sharing!An ESP8266 was indeed an option, see tip section we started a short discussion earlier today.Note to myself: Invest in a proper soldering station, very neat build!

Hello Trike,I actually found an article using 2 magnets on the chain, near the motor. I also liked that approach but ordered the switches before finding that :-)You can have a look at this Arduino based article, not sure however if a RPi has the precision required for "pulses" between strips to have direction/RPM. As a rul of thumb, my door takes 12.5 seconds for full course. At some point that is why I had that "middle" position in the UI.https://www.megunolink.com/articles/arduino-garage...On my TODO list is "learn to design 3D printed parts" :-)Thanks for your feedback, always good developing around ideas!

Hi Stan, thanks for your interest!NodeMCU / ultrasonic was indeed a solution. However I had a RPi around and wanted to use it in my garage (next to networking equipment). This is why I used it. Final target was to use it for home automation .I had a look at PiDome (https://twitter.com/pi_dome), now Home Assistant (https://home-assistant.io/hassio/).In a perfect world I'd be happy to use more simple D1 Mini boards (similar to NodeMCU, I actually own a few NodeMCU but bought a few different models from Ali Express). Ultra sonic sensor was an option but lakes a precise reading for "fully closed" / "fully opened" vs "slightly opened", for instance to let some fresh air flows when doing wood working.To link all these I'm having a look at Homie for ESP8266 frame...

Hi Stan, thanks for your interest!NodeMCU / ultrasonic was indeed a solution. However I had a RPi around and wanted to use it in my garage (next to networking equipment). This is why I used it. Final target was to use it for home automation .I had a look at PiDome (https://twitter.com/pi_dome), now Home Assistant (https://home-assistant.io/hassio/).In a perfect world I'd be happy to use more simple D1 Mini boards (similar to NodeMCU, I actually own a few NodeMCU but bought a few different models from Ali Express). Ultra sonic sensor was an option but lakes a precise reading for "fully closed" / "fully opened" vs "slightly opened", for instance to let some fresh air flows when doing wood working.To link all these I'm having a look at Homie for ESP8266 framework (https://github.com/marvinroger/homie-esp8266), this is very promising but I'm still lacking time to investigate, especially regarding IR controlled HVAC units.Please see my other 'able : https://www.instructables.com/id/Building-Homie-De...

Hello Ralph,Thanks for your comment!I always say I like being lazy, this makes me look around for tips and tricks and eventually enhance some stuff.Hope this'll help you, don't hesitate to hang around!

Hello, Good point. I still have to write that part of my instructable. However I've successfully used a relay board driven by a Raspberry Pi in another project. The trick is that the board has 3 wires : VCC, GND and signal. The VCC is directly connected to the 5V pin of the RPi while signal comes from a regular digital pin. This provides both the required voltage to operate the relay and a safe connection from the controller. You can find below: 1/ A random module of that kind : https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1-road-relay-modules-with-optical-coupling-isolation-fully-compatible-with-3-3-V-and-5/32355065560.html 2/ My RPi setup using such board : https://github.com/amayii0/GarageOpenerR1/wiki#fritzing-schematics 3/ If not using a module, this schema based on transistor should do the t...

Hello, Good point. I still have to write that part of my instructable. However I've successfully used a relay board driven by a Raspberry Pi in another project. The trick is that the board has 3 wires : VCC, GND and signal. The VCC is directly connected to the 5V pin of the RPi while signal comes from a regular digital pin. This provides both the required voltage to operate the relay and a safe connection from the controller. You can find below: 1/ A random module of that kind : https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1-road-relay-modules-with-optical-coupling-isolation-fully-compatible-with-3-3-V-and-5/32355065560.html 2/ My RPi setup using such board : https://github.com/amayii0/GarageOpenerR1/wiki#fritzing-schematics 3/ If not using a module, this schema based on transistor should do the trick : https://electronics.stackexchange.com/a/255977