S0dyP0p

Nice simple thoughts. Thanks for posting. I used these measurements to help build storage for something like 50 bikes at our local bicycle collective. We put them a little higher and hang them "head down" to allow for a row of bikes standing on the floor underneath also. The ones on the floor are basically under each of the high-hung bikes, at about a 45 degree angle from the wall on kickstands.

The brass wire & SMD's takes the old LED throwie concept to a whole new level. This is classy and so nerdy all at the same time!

Nice way to keep track of the little magnet and to make it a bit easier to use. I'm thinking a piece of wooden dowel would make an eaiser-to-assemble indicator, but this is a good simple concept and a step up from both the problematic electronic stud "finders" and knocking with my knuckle (my current favorite method).

I've been halfheartedly looking at this sort of implementation for a while. Thanks for posting your details! I think I can actually finish this project myself now.

I had almost the same thought, but picturing someone on a stationary bicycle with the induction setup as the resistance. But since I have Google, I now know that even cheap low-power hot plates are 500 watts and that pedaling pretty hard gives about 200-300 watts for a recreational cyclist. So probably not worth building that version unless you're really into frustration.A good wind and a ~$200 wind turbine, you could probably make this work. A fun back of the envelope exercise, which I'll leave to others to actually attempt. Nice inspring Instructable. Thanks!

I built a version from 1 sheet, including the stand. I'll post the cut diagram if I can find it!

I built one out of a single sheet of plywood, 36" long. It's heavy, but 2 adults can carry it without a problem.

I've got an antique oak "library table" (large desk with bookshelves built in to the ends) with a very similar style. This would be a great companion piece to sit nearby!Normally, Kreg recommends putting 2 screws side-by-side for each joint for better stability. Do you feel like this chair would benefit from that, or do the interlocked layers hold it plenty stable? It's a big difference in drilling time and screw usage, so if this seems like plenty of strength I'd be inclined to use the same method...

Man, if only I'd had this 'ible when my wife was throwing out that lamp a couple weeks ago...This is not helping to reduce my pack-rat tendencies at all, but mounting it on the lamp arm is a nice twist on the many diy fume extractors on this site. Thanks!

We often have groups of people over, and this would be a great closet overflow to have during the winter. I'd maybe apply a printed photo to the wood as several other 'ibles show to make it even more decorative when it's not being used. I need this thing!

Beautiful, multilayered approach to reveal and explore patterns. What a great way to get even young kids playing with math. And great instructions, too!

I'd had the same thought that this would be a great place for my phone. Thanks for sharing your solution! What is the thickness of the "slot hook" as you call it?

The more I look at different designs, the more I like the top box design you've got with with swing-out doors supporting the leaves. I'm looking to copy that with more of a static store-in-the stand design. All those moving parts in the stand look taxing to my skill level but they look completely worth it on the top. Thanks for the thorough write-up and photos!

Nice. Getting ready to build a camp chuck box with pocket holes so this write-up got my attention. Those store-bought plugs seem like such a good idea until you try to use them...#6 it is!

I degrease bike chains with 1:1 Simple Green and water. Drop the chain (or separated links) into a sealed jar with the solution, hand to someone who likes to fidget to agitate the jar for a while, then pull the parts out and rinse. An old chain will probably come cleaner, since the factory lube on a new chain is very resistant to removal.

Makes sense. It sounds like your system works differently than mine. I've got a hard wired button run with telephone-type wire from the motor to a location near the door into the house. Looking at your video, yours looks detached from the house so it makes sense you don't have a physical button.You've got my wheels turning about tapping in to that (probably) 12V button for a built-in installation in my situation. An old car charger should do the conversion for me, and no need to run separate USB power. Thanks!

Nice. Is there a reason you didn't try connecting it with the physical button inside the garage instead? It seems as though you could use the built-in power source (with appropriate voltage conversion) to run the board. Also, you don't have to dedicate a wireless door opener to the project. Those things are expensive!I like the concept, though. When cars are left outside the garage, I hate to leave the opener in them. But then I forget to put it back in and it's annoying to not have it. I will update if I am able to get the wired application to work!

Nice instructable. A tweak could be to do it with an old window from architechtural salvage. They're cheap and ready-made, saving you the frame building step. And it would give this high-tech project a nice throwback feel.

Very nice and simple. I'll try it on an old phone first, since they're not doing me any good right now.This would make a great hidden clue for an "escape room" game scenario. Has anyone tried viewing this with polarized sunglasses? It probably wouldn't work as well, but I bet you could get something to show up if you looked at it right.

Thanks for the comments, all. These seem to be working out well at my school.