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Very well, but that would be a sort of "single-purpose hammer", I was talking more about a general purpose hammer, but I agree :)And speaking of a brass hammer, it might well depend on the choice of brass, but many of the alloys tend to be harder than mild steel. Of course there are others that you can simply cut with knife (if it is a thin sheet or a burr)... but you probably already know that :)
Still... done properly means more durable ;)
I'd like to add that a hammer should not be made just from any piece of iron lying about... It should be made from steels with about 0.5% carbon, some of them might be better ground than filed even in annealed state (would be too hard for some files). Also the hammerhead should be hardened (heated to about 800°C and quenched in oil or water - depending on the material) in order to make the face and the peen of the hammer harder (it could happen that your unhardened hammer would be softer than a nail).Hopefully my tips will be of some use ;)
Well as a blacksmith I am using them a lot... a lot of work is done cold nowadays. Especially when one needs high precision :)
Great idea... made myself one from sheet metal about ten months ago (the drills had come with a strip to hold them) so just inserted that). Still I find myself overdrilled and in the end I seem to have opted for a piece of squared timber with a lot of drilled holes of various diameters, better for workshop storage but not for travelling, I would say :)
Large Motors Class
I would myself consider restoring the chest of drawers in question instead of "upcycling" it this way, it seems to have been an interesting piece once in the past.
Ummm... just ran into someone who simply keeps throwing any broken drill bits that appear in his hands... so I just have to stress the opetion...The broken drills can be reground and work as they did before breaking (besides being shorter, of course :) )
Intermediate Leatherworking Class
and the size of links and density would enhance the protection, durability and weight... sigh... well it would still be good to test it. You might get a patent on new combat armour protection against slashing weapons, and earn a decent living through that idea.
Axes and spears would probably go through - unless ist was ways better than the medieval chainmail. Also sword thrusts could pierce... And I have a different question... how much would a suit of this kind of mail weigh? :)
Table Saw Class
Mold Making & Casting Class
There were many stone blades. It is more traditional to use flint stones, though
that's the idea, yes
Interesting, I must admit... but thinking hard... would it be possible with wasting less material? Both resin and wood?
I have been thinking about basically doing the whole bowl "inside another bowl" and pressing another bowl on top of if, possibly with layers of plastic to prevent the lower bowl and the upper bowl from being glued to the bowl being made.Basically a bowl making press for the resin to harden already in the shape of a bowl and then one would machine away far less excess material.Like pre-casting something to finish it with far less lost material. That would be my proposition.
Looks great, not sure if it will endure much work, too much welding for that... but hopefully it will last, and I wish you a lot of forging on it :)
Hello, as a blacksmith I can say that springs sometimes work well for cold chisels and sometimes not... each spring is made out of a different material and so it can be quite problematic. But, they are quite good for all the wood-carving tools and for many blacksmith tools that work heated metal (albeit for cold metal i prefer known steels with correct carbon content fit for such purpose).
Intro to Leatherwork
Leather Tools and Supplies
Simple Leather Wallet: Layout and Trace
3D Printing Class
And I thank you for your reply, and... I look forward to reading your instrutable on cuir bouilli :)
Make an Amazing Leather Sheath for a Knife! Beginner friendly!
Pasta Making Class
I must admit I am totally puzzled... Won't the sofa get utterly wet when it rains? And if yes... would that mean moving it all around every day?
I would use low carbon steel, low carbon steel is still ten times more tough than aluminium, and it has far higher melting temperature, which, in case of aluminium, is pretty low.Mid carbon steel or recycled spring steel could be an interesting solution though :)No use for high carbon steel though (1 and more percent), it would be excessively hard even for stamping steel, and fairly brittle.
Designing Your Mosaic Floor