Seph Cameron

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5Instructables249,041Views44CommentsStroud, UK
Guitars and booze. Pretty much sums up what I make. A booze guitar? Totally already thought of that, stop trying to steal my ideas. You're always doing that. Might make a synthesiser in the future.

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  • The foam isn't the bit causing the reflections, it's the hard rear surface of the box it's in. A deeper container would just change the characteristics of the comb filtering, though it would allow more foam to be put in. Best thing is to just remove the back or perforate it.

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  • It's most definitely true for audio also. Given that I don't know the distance from the mic to the back, I can't say exactly what the comb filtering will look like and where the major peaks/troughs will be, but I've been working with this stuff for some time now and can eyeball it pretty well. 1in foam won't do you much good in the range of human speech. You need much thicker foam, or to just take the back off so you don't have any direct reflections.

    It's good, but you need to enable multi-band filtering half the time to get it all which makes your recording sound like an MP3.

    It's in the audio spectrum, but not in the speech spectrum. Well, it is, but right at the top so it'll only help with S, F, V, T sounds. The useable band is generally considered to be 300Hz-3kHz for human speech, with a little wiggle room either side.The result of this is you're only going to filter out reflections at the very top end of speech, leaving most of it to be interfered with by reflections.I've worked in audio for quite a few years now, I do know what I'm talking about.

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  • Take the solid surface off the back and you'll get a much better result. The box isolates the mic, the foam damps internal reflections. The thickness of the foam corresponds to 1/4 of the longest wavelength it will effectively damp.Having a hard surface behind the mic gives you a reflection. This will cause all sorts of comb filleting, as the mic is effectively receiving two signals, one delayed by the distance to the surface and back. You'll get a much more accurate recording, if with slightly more room noise, without a solid back.

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  • You can cast anything you like! Say you 3d printed a cog, but plastic just doesn't hold up to the task. You could press that 3d model into some casting sand, pull it back out, pour your metal and hey presto! Instant metal parts. They need a bit of post-casting work, sanding and filing here and there, but they're pretty accurate to begin with.

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  • Your best bet is to go with lead acid rather than lithium. They're so much cheaper, and it's not like you're powering a car with them so the weight isn't much of an issue. Not sure about the exchange rate, but here they're about £75/kWh.

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  • I do, but I'm not going to share it. Rickenbacker get pretty litigious with people that do. I just drew it in AutoCad using reference photos then scaled it to a known length (nut to bridge).

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