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  • Stich & Glue Plywood Canoe

    Hi there!aaaii.... sadly after I built this boat my contract work took a dip. One morning I had to stand in the garage and look at the boat with tears in my eyes. I had to sell it to get some cash to pay the bank. I had intended for this to be a labour of love and use it for many years. But it was not to be!On that morning I strapped the beautiful thing to the roof of my car and drove across the Cape peninsula to a boat shop far away. I sold it to them. Apparently they lease out props to film companies and they wanted to have this in their catalogue.Unfortunately I do not know the where abouts of the kayak now. But I shed some real tears letting it go.

    Ha ha! I am super happy to hear that all those hours I put in resonated with you. What better thing is there for us to inspire each other.Would love to see what you build when it is done. I did build another, smaller boat two years ago. Also with plywood. Images are attached. I have also since purchased a plastic canoe (am I a sell-out.... maybe.... don't know how to measure that) that I use infrequently.Please post your build or just mention it here. Thanks for posting. Cheers!

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  • Hi BrianThanks for the comment, and kudo's for completing a strip canoe!I think your suggestion for a keel is a good one. I considered splitting the bottom of my canoe towards the end, and pushing a 4 mm. piece of ply into the slit to force it to bend outwards. Maybe on the next one!

    Hey TitchThanks for the tips and info and taking the time to comment.. I found a lot of interesting new ideas in what you said - certainly some stuff that I will Google up on.The Japanese saws are something that I really wan to investigate. I've seen a lot of it in Youtube videos. Then, of course, I looked around and saw Cape Town South Africa around me. I have looked in hardware stores but have NEVER seen any of those saws.

    Thank you!

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  • Hi Ossum. Yeah! Cape Town rules. Good luck with the heat for the rest of the week.With regards to the loft shapes... Unfortunately I don't have a very brilliant solution. I figured out that the touching sides of the panels should be the same length, and that the length of the further edge determines the "roundness" or "bulge". So I built models for each generation of drawings. So sadly I can't offer a better solution.I use Blender 3D for my design stuff. I've always wondered how boats are made so that the water doesn't run back up the drive shaft from the prop. I can't think that a seal on a moving shaft can be that watertight?

    Hey rippa. Thanks for the comment. So 6 years hey? Sorry to hear about that. I'm hoping to go longer than that by keeping it hoisted against the roof in the garage, out of the sun.Your idea of scarfing (I think that's right?) the angle and joining the sheets that way is a good one. I can imagine that it would be strong enough, AND MAKE FOR SIMPLER SANDING!! I spent quite a few hours sanding and glassing that jointing panel. I'll keep that in mind for future projects. Thanks!

    Hi T-ke. Yeah. I can imagine that will work well. I'm assuming you saw Rippa's comment on creating an angle scarf joint? Similar idea. Perhaps that scarf joint will be easier to position and get the two sheets flush because it can slide up and down... The outer layer of plywood is so thin that to sand it down till any inconsistency is flush often means sanding through the outer layer and hitting visible cross-grain.Having said that... this is a exploratory self build and if your skills with a router is supreme then your idea will definitely work. Adding that as a build option might give someone else the courage to proceed. There is no risk of the boat collapsing around the joint since the joint is strengthened by the 180 degree flow of the wood from one side to the other. The half-pipe sh…

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    Hi T-ke. Yeah. I can imagine that will work well. I'm assuming you saw Rippa's comment on creating an angle scarf joint? Similar idea. Perhaps that scarf joint will be easier to position and get the two sheets flush because it can slide up and down... The outer layer of plywood is so thin that to sand it down till any inconsistency is flush often means sanding through the outer layer and hitting visible cross-grain.Having said that... this is a exploratory self build and if your skills with a router is supreme then your idea will definitely work. Adding that as a build option might give someone else the courage to proceed. There is no risk of the boat collapsing around the joint since the joint is strengthened by the 180 degree flow of the wood from one side to the other. The half-pipe shape adds a lot of rigidity to the joint. Plus, of course, the composite laminate of the glass.Either way, if I understand you correctly doing the joint that way would eliminate the need for that glued piece of wood? As Rippa said, it make a continuous piece of wood that looks nicer and I'm guessing makes the sanding a lot more straightforward.Send pics if you manage it!

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  • Thank you. Appreciate that.

    A pleasure. Thanks for the comment.I was thinking about what would be cool about this build for a scout troop... and my conclusion is that it would be an amazing maths/dimensions exercise to mark out the measurements of the canoe panels on the plywood, and then to see those flat surfaces bend themselves into curves.Having a troop available might make lighter work of sanding, so that's a positive!Also, the experience of working with a composite building technique such as wood encased in fiberglass and resin might spark some future design ideas. Composites are the way of the future and this is a subtle and simple introduction.Good luck if you decide to go ahead and please don't hesitate to ask or share thoughts!

    Thanks!

    Much appreciated comment. Thanks.

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  • Hi there. Thanks for the comment. I'm guessing the build cost at around $200. Definitely under $250. I can post the panel measurements for sure. They are the same as in the computer drawing image, but I can give better instructions? No need to get into computer designa for this. Just measurements put onto the plywood sheets based on the drawings.

    Hi there. Thanks for the comment. I'm guessing the build cost at around $200. Definitely under $250. I can post the panel measurements for sure. They are the same as in the computer drawing image, but I can give better instructions? No need to get into computer designa for this. Just measurements put onto the plywood sheets based on the drawings.

    Hi. Yes. the measurements are on there, but feel free to ask. I've added a better quality measurements pic, and a diagram showing that yes, quite correctly, the plans need to be measured out four times. Good luck on the build when you embark on it. A big variation on this build would be to leave out the seats and add cross-beams or "thwarts" across the top. It means the occupants can sit on the floor, or add removable seats. I liked the idea of seats, and the idea of thwarts wasn't cool. But now, with the outrigger attached, I guess the score evened out.I should point out that the outrigger is a "must" in terms of the enjoyment factor. From what I read almost everyone comments that their canoes disappoint in their expectations due to the "unstableness". Any k…

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    Hi. Yes. the measurements are on there, but feel free to ask. I've added a better quality measurements pic, and a diagram showing that yes, quite correctly, the plans need to be measured out four times. Good luck on the build when you embark on it. A big variation on this build would be to leave out the seats and add cross-beams or "thwarts" across the top. It means the occupants can sit on the floor, or add removable seats. I liked the idea of seats, and the idea of thwarts wasn't cool. But now, with the outrigger attached, I guess the score evened out.I should point out that the outrigger is a "must" in terms of the enjoyment factor. From what I read almost everyone comments that their canoes disappoint in their expectations due to the "unstableness". Any kind of outrigger, even a closed off pvc pipe one, will add a LOT of stability.

    Thank you

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