SylvanB

Instead of cutting away the corners of each shelf (two cuts), instead cut one side of the corner and fold along the other to make a tab.When folding up the edges of the shelf the tab can be glued inside to hold the two edges together.

White glue (e.g. Elmer's, any polyvinyl acetate based glue), or wood glue (e.g. Titebond) would work well. Something with a bit of flexibility after curing like the E6000 might be better. The polyurethane might be a problem because of the expansion while curing - needs tight clamping. The others I usually use just a bit of masking tape to hold things together while they set.

It appears you are using "contact" cement but joining the pieces while wet. Did you try using it like normal where you apply a thin layer to both sides and let dry before joining?

Note that on the image titled "Outdoor Chair Parts" that part (A) (the front uprights) are identified as 1-1/8" (28.575mm). It is correctly identified on other diagrams as 7-1/8" (which would be 180.975mm).Nice looking chair! I'm going to consider if legs would raise it a sufficient height for me, or if I need to more significantly modify the design.

Dave, that looks terrific!I found this inspiring. Your sense of humor, forgiving your roommate, this writeup... Thanks!P.S. Bodgeit Quick & Scarper did similar work on my house.

A Pico has plenty of power to be a keyboard controller - monitors the keyboard matrix and interfaces to USB - which would allow you to do any mapping you desire. Adafruit has a couple of mini-keyboards using this, and recently introduced a Pico board designed specifically to be a keyboard controller.

Nice looking clock. I'll have to look for laser cutting service in my area.You can eliminate the boost module and it might be easier to fit into the box. Your existing pro micro might run directly on battery voltage, but is most likely running at 16mhz which is technically out of spec below 5v (many are fine, some are not). You can get a pro micro set up at 8mhz intended to run on 3.3v which will do fine on a single-cell LiIon battery up to 4.2v without a boost module.

That looks great!I recently sat in a handcrafted wooden chair that was very comfortable. I realized that in addition to the obvious back-seat angle, the seat itself had started with a very thick piece of wood - 5+ cm - and had been heavily sculpted and contoured to generally match human anatomy. Probably the craftsman had repeatedly sat himself down to feel any pressure points then stood up and removed the uncomfortable bits (of the seat!) with a gouge or chisel until he was satisfied (maybe that all happened 100 years ago, or perhaps many times up until the 1970s). The resulting seat is less than 2cm thick across the front and that is the impression of the entire thing until looking more closely reveals the amount of contouring of the seating surface.Perhaps a second layer of 1/2" …

That looks great!I recently sat in a handcrafted wooden chair that was very comfortable. I realized that in addition to the obvious back-seat angle, the seat itself had started with a very thick piece of wood - 5+ cm - and had been heavily sculpted and contoured to generally match human anatomy. Probably the craftsman had repeatedly sat himself down to feel any pressure points then stood up and removed the uncomfortable bits (of the seat!) with a gouge or chisel until he was satisfied (maybe that all happened 100 years ago, or perhaps many times up until the 1970s). The resulting seat is less than 2cm thick across the front and that is the impression of the entire thing until looking more closely reveals the amount of contouring of the seating surface.Perhaps a second layer of 1/2" plywood would give room for a sander (or gouge or...) to carve some suitable contours into the seating surface.

I strongly recommend some liquid flux. One improvisation, is you might know someone that plays the violin or similar and you can beg a bit of rosin they use for their bow. Put in an alcohol safe container (preferably a little glass bottle) and add a few drops of at least 70% isopropyl (rubbing) alcohol. The higher the purity the better. Also ethanol is good. Use denatured or perhaps some high proof vodka or Everclear.if you have liquid flux, then instead of solder braid (aka solder wick) you can use stranded wire like an old extension cord or appliance cord. Remove the insulation from the end inch or so, keep it roughly together but do not twist it too tight, dip in flux, use like solder wick.

bmail, any idea what kind of nuts you used? it sounds like they were typical zinc (galvanized) steel (blue, gray or reddish slime) or possibly brass (greenish slime). Those metals will corrode in many liquids whereas stainless steel (I prefer 316 but have had good luck with 304) is resistant to most household things and titanium should resist nearly all. Titanium is so light... probably why the author used so many. :)Glass beads might work better than any metal, being closely related to a "stone with a hole."

dielectric grease has the advantage of a higher melting point and may be a bit more safe around rubber and plastic. That said, for decades my parents and I used "Vaseline" petroleum jelly on bulb bases and plug prongs with no problems.petroleum jelly can deteriorate natural rubber so think before using it... it softened and expanded the o-rings on more than one flashlight, so now I use a pure silicone plumber's grease on those (same as I use on water filter o-rings and gaskets).

Lime scale is a base. Baking soda is a base. Base neutralizes acid in the reaction describe in this instructable. Baking soda neutralizes the vinegar, diminishing the effect of vinegar on the lime scale.

Is the entire egg used to make the egg wash, or just the white?Is there a second yolk (raw, boiled?) added to the spinach mixture?Looks and sounds yummy!

The soda stream is just carbonates a bottle. It is not a dispenser. No need to adapt. The bag in the box contains just the concentrated flavor syrup. Just add a little bit of concentrate to a bottle of seltzer water (after the carbonation is complete) as you would using the official soda stream flavorings.

To what precision? Is common framing lumber 50x100mm which has no more reality than "2x4"? Or a 40x90mm? Or a 38x89mm? Or 38.1x89.9? Quick, what is the center of that?Do you mean "metric" or do you actually mean "decimals"? Those are two entirely different topics. Dividing by two is easier using fractions than decimals because multiplication.English units have been based on metric constants for centuries. Some things are more convenient using metric directly, and others less convenient. In the end it really makes no difference at all (but mixing them is surely a recipe for disaster).

The bumper is welded to mounting brackets, the brackets are bolted to the truck frame."leveled again I made tack welds to the bumper, all around the recovery points and brackets, including on the back side of the bumper before unbolting everything again. Back on the welding table it was time to go to town with the final welding."

The pictures in step 3 show the light. It is an LED light intended for in ground installation, and here it is installed in the center of some squares, in what appears to be a wood square filled in concrete around the light. The light is round, with a cover ring looks like stainless steel or aluminum, and has some screws attaching the cover ring.