SylvanB

Very nice! Been toying with a similar design and yours looks great!One thing I've been considering and I would like to know your thoughts... What about positioning the support slats about 1/2in low on the sides? This would create legs that protrude a little (1/4in or so) below the bottom, and offset them below the top of the slats (about 1/2in) to receive the legs of a crate stacked on top. I think this would help the stack interlock a bit, and sit a bit better than a flat bottom on imperfect surfaces.

Very nice! Great use of strut, and good job replacing heavy duty and $$ rollers with something more suitable.

In general glue when properly used is plenty strong along a joint with that much surface.I'd still likely use some biscuits to reinforce the joints. :)

Concrete curing is not affected by lack of evaporation in the fiberglass mold since concrete does not require drying to cure. Concrete will cure just fine even under water (and be even stronger than if it dries out during curing).If it seems as if the concrete has no strength until it "dries" then it was mixed with too much water and will never get the strength it should have had. Concrete mixed correctly is much stiffer than cake batter and when "placed" it should form a reasonable mound. This will require persuasion to spread it into the corners and edges of the form rather than self spreading.

What other things did you try as a mold release for the concrete? Usually I'd expect a spray of oil or even kerosene or diesel to do the job, and be much easier than smearing grease.

Properly venting the pit makes a huge difference. The vent pipe needs to open flush below the seat - no space between bottom of seat and pipe opening or that space "vents" when you open the seat. The vent needs to go well above the roof and preferably black pipe for better solar chimney effect (even better if it runs up outside the wall on the sunny side). The more tightly the seat and cover seal the hole when not in use, the better. Probably need to add an air inlet from outside into the pit below the vent opening using pipe 1/4 to 1/2 the size of the vent. Screen both pipes to keep out flies.When properly vented, significant airflow will exit the vent pipe on sunny days, enough to flutter tissue placed on top, greatly reducing the smell and keeping it out of the structure.

ESC - Electronic Speed Control -- most simple form it provides an electronic equivalent function to the brushes and commutator to run a brushless motor.in-runner vs. out-runner - which part of the motor rotates, the inside or the outside. outside means most of the external housing will rotate, but there will always be a small part stationary for mounting and electrical connections. inside means only the shaft of the motor rotates and the entire housing is stationary holding the mounting points and electrical connections.

It sounds like you control or monitor air pressure for consistency, but what about volume of air applied?The oil base primer will help, but starting with a good soak in oil would be better. Apply multiple coats of boiled linseed oil or similar drying oil until the wood won't absorb any more. It helps to dilute the first few coats with thinner to increase penetration and drying. Then do the prime and paint. (CAUTION: When using drying oils the possibility of spontaneous combustion is real.)Final thought... You're likely fine, but I hate to see people risk using PVC pipe for compressed gas.

Propane is perfectly legal to use indoors and many homes are plumbed with propane including some of my neighbors. As for the legality of 20# cylinders indoors, I'm skeptical of your claim. I will agree that the danger of a leak is real.

Very nice. Have you considered selling these?I suspect aligning the screw with the grain of the wood might be important to avoid cracking the block, especially with hard nuts.

Nice writeup. I'm going to have to try this on a panel with shattered glass.

usually they are encapsulated between glass and a plastic backing using a silicone resin to prevent moisture from entering, and assembled using a vacuum to pull out any bubbles of air / moisture before that resin cures. (any moisture will eventually corrode the metallic traces on the cells)

Like the 4x4 chunky style.I'm considering a few minor changes...* 2x4 for the seat platform -- look nearly the same, but lighter, cheaper and easier* Arm on top of the verticals -- stronger, higher, easier to extend* Back on top of arm on top of verticals -- higher, maybe stronger* Either add a block (or hockey puck) under the four corners as a foot, or raise the bottom rail an inch or so, maybe both -- sit better on imperfect surfaces, less moisture pickup

I like the styrofoam ball idea, but copper is $$ and hard to weld (or solder) at arbitrary angles. Maybe EMT for the legs. (Electrical Metallic Tubing, a lightweight -- compared to rigid conduit -- steel tubing, but watch the zinc!) Steel wire or tubing in other sizes might work for different size spiders... 3/8 rebar seems likely to be one of if not the best compromise between cost, availability, diameter, and workability.

That is perfectly horrible.Congratulations!

Nice clock! What do you think about gearing the hands together to use a single stepper motor instead of separate motors and position sensors?

That's a nice simple wallet.I haven't done any leather work since a class in school many years ago. I appreciate you naming, showing and linking most of your tools and supplies. Would you happen to have links for an "edge beveler", "groover", "guide" and the "fork" ? Maybe there is a starter kit of such basic tools including the needles...Thanks for the nice project guide!