Tanzer26

Acrylic sheet would melt and discolour when you solder the components.Without access to a cutter, you could probably duplicate it using adhesive copper foil. I comes in different widths and is commonly used in alarm systems to detect broken glass.

Parchment paper might work.

You should be marketing this to one of the helmet manufacturers. I am really impressed with the movement based control.

I had a commercial version of this shut off years ago. It had a pinhole through the ball in the valve at right angle to open. This allowed a trickle of water through when shut off. Thus kept the water temp set. While some have expressed concerns about hit water cooking, what actually tends to happen is the hot water rises from the mix point above the taps, and when you turn it on, there's a potential for scalds (depends on temp of your hot water).

Love this. Pretty sure I have a well used smooth rim diamond blade kicking around. A little touch up to its cutting edge and presto. I also like the comment about 3D printing an insert for use with. Need to see if i could rig a vacuum line to my table saw.

Awesome. I can only imagine the time you invested. The whiskers are a great touch. I would have added a couple over each eye too. But I realize you do eventually say, enough. I hope it's treated with the respect it deserves and stands for many years.

My concern is the batteries soldered in parallel. If any one of them charges to a slightly lower voltage, when you stop charging with external power, it will draw down the others. You could end up with currents reaching dangerous levels. Unless I'm missing something.

Could you add video or photos of the jig in use? I just can't picture how it functions.

Your confusing impedance with resistance, I think. 300 ohm twin lead, does indeed have lower loss than RG-59 coax. If you step up to RG-6 coax, then loss is pretty similar. Line loss can be made up for with amplification at course (ie the antenna). Coax has become the wire of choice due to the preponderance of cable. I started assisting my dad with ota antenna installs, when I was about 10 years old, 2 years of college for electronics technology and returned to continue until my late 20's. We did antennas on towers, on tripod mounts on the roof (my favourite for cost/performance) and in attics (doesn't work well through aluminum siding or metal roofs). We were quite distant from any station, with only a very few to choose from, and our go to, was a 10 element yagi, tuned for the desired c…

Your confusing impedance with resistance, I think. 300 ohm twin lead, does indeed have lower loss than RG-59 coax. If you step up to RG-6 coax, then loss is pretty similar. Line loss can be made up for with amplification at course (ie the antenna). Coax has become the wire of choice due to the preponderance of cable. I started assisting my dad with ota antenna installs, when I was about 10 years old, 2 years of college for electronics technology and returned to continue until my late 20's. We did antennas on towers, on tripod mounts on the roof (my favourite for cost/performance) and in attics (doesn't work well through aluminum siding or metal roofs). We were quite distant from any station, with only a very few to choose from, and our go to, was a 10 element yagi, tuned for the desired channel.

Very nice and easy to understand. A small brake is something I've wished for. A couple of suggestions, if you decide to rebuild, or up size. I'd splurge on some hardwood, rather than pine, much stronger, but I'd stay with 2 or more pieces laminated, less likely to warp on you. And I'd use T-nuts inset slightly on the underside (I use a speedbore type bit, with the outer points ground off to match the cutting angle. Much stronger than screws. thanks for sharing.

If I was going for outside use, I'd finish up with a clear casting resin or similar. Preferably something with UV inhibitor on it. A Black only image should last quite a long time. Colors are likely to fade with sun exposure.

I like the piece. For future reference, there is a steam bending technique for bending thick timbers. Primarily involves using a strap on the outside of the bend to apply pressure and prevent that side stretching and cracking. Then when you apply bending force, instead of the outside of the bend stretching and cracking, the inner side is forced to compress. Creating a steam chamber isn't at all difficult.

For rust, Liquid Wrench lives up to its name. I agree about the smell of WD-40. Cheap adjustables are just that. To avoid damage to an adjustable wrench, the movable jaw should be be on the side you would put your hand on the handle to push. And perhaps you misunderstand, I fully support use of the vise.

In my experience, WD-40 is not much of a lubricant or penetrating oil. It's slightly better than nothing, but a real penetrating oil works miracles. In a pinch, kerosene penetrates well. Using 2 nuts is a great technique. Using locking pliers is not, especially for any nut or bolt you intend to use again. Locking pliers often make future use of a proper size wrench difficult. A set of wrenches is well worth the investment, or a oversized adjustable wrench. For really stuck nut, a vice like you used on the locked nuts and a box end wrench on the other, would be my first choices. Well written instructable and the title is fine IMHO.

No one builds with components with only a .1% margin for over voltage, and there is no problem with lower voltages set all. Other components, such as capacitors, also have max voltages. With a circuit built for 12V, you'd see commonly see components rated for 20 to 25V, very rarely as low as 15V. BTW, I'm speaking from college training in electronics and many years in the field.

Motors are not a truly resistave load, rather they are an inductive load. One of the major reasons for electric motors failing, is heat due to increase current during voltage sags. Put an ammeter on a ,motor and drop the voltage. Or increase the load on the motor. Thus the reason we track of over current protection being important for LIon batteries.

Agreed. With motors going slightly over voltage would be better than a not under. Only risk would be if there are electronics controlling the speed and you exceed their max voltage rating.

Nice instructable. I have an older set of cordless tools, store brand, new batteries are special order and ridiculously expensive. I have a newer LiOn drill, but it would be great to revive the other tools. I've considered trying to rebuild the original packs, but upgrading to LiOn cells seems a great idea. thanks