Hi Louis, the images are saved in the following directory: /home/pi/allsky/images/If the image wasn't uploaded to your server, it's probably an FTP configuration issue. Have you connected to this server before? If not, try to ssh to it in order to add it to the known hosts:ssh <your-server-url-or-IP>Run ./allsky.sh again and wait for the ftp debug information to show up in the terminal. It will tell you if the transfer worked or failed.
Hi Albert,Thanks for sharing the video and a picture of your camera. You seem to have a good dark sky at your place.I have seen the issue with the indexed colours before and I believe it happened when I was starting and stopping `./allsky.sh` manually multiple times in a row. My theory is that some process was duplicated (most likely `entr`). I am re-writing that part of the code in version 0.6 to minimise issues like this one.Also if you're logging to the Pi using VNC or remote desktop, it may launch another instance of `./allsky.sh`. A future version of the code should also take care of that.Let me know the colour issue happens again and if you find a way to reproduce it.Thomas
Hey Dave,I'm still trying to figure out how the instructables comments threads are organised. I think my answer is still here but kind of hidden. I had to expand an arrow to see it.Anyway, yes you can resize the images using the Image Magick's 'mogrify' command. Instead of creating a whole new set of scaled down images, it overwrites them. Here's the doc:https://www.imagemagick.org/script/mogrify.phpYou could probably call the command at line 17 on timelapse.sh
That's awesome Vern! Please send a picture once you have completed the project. I love to see what builders come up with. I'll add you to the map.
Hey Dave, What's the size of an individual image? Is it the full 3096*2080?It seems like a memory allocation issue. There's 1GB Ram total on a RP3. I'm wondering whether avconv is trying to use more memory to build the timelapse than there's left in RAM. You can run the command 'top' in a terminal and run avconv in another. Look for the memory usage.One way to check would be to scale the images down and try running the ./timelapse.sh script manually again.
Hi Daniel,When you say overloaded, what do you mean exactly? I do not own an ASI120MC but I know it works fine with a P3 and ASI224MC. In theory, the ATIK camera could be used but it would require a custom capture.cpp using ATIK's SDK. Currently, the app is only using ZWO's SDK.
I will check my CPU load tonight. In the meantime, you can type "top" in a terminal to see which process is taking all the cpu.
The rotating platform is a really nice feature, especially if you don't have 180 degrees field of view. You did a great job on that project. Where is your location? I'll add you to the map!
Hi, the logic for day and night behaviour is in capture.cpp between lines 483 and 502. You can copy lines 484 to 492 into the DAY conditional statement. That way it will save both during the day and at night. However, it will use the same exposure.ZWO provides 2 functions in its SDK. The first one is the single exposure mode which is the one I'm using. It doesn't have an auto-exposure feature. The second mode is the video mode which has auto-exposure. I haven't tried it yet but I am planning to. It will require a few changes to the .cpp file.
Hi Mike,I believe it is the job of the developer to set the default values when he writes the software. I am setting default values in capture.cpp. If you don't pass any parameters to the ZWO functions, they throw errors. However, I couldn't find a range of supported values for most settings.The only info on their website is the exposure: 32µs-1000s in the case of the asi224.
You can try to run ./timelapse.sh manually and look at the output in the terminal. There might be some useful messages. The latest change on that file was the addition of "-pix_fmt yuv420p" in order to make it compatible with some adobe product. You can try without it.
I am wondering if the wifi instability is somewhat related the usb reset messages you're getting. I don't really have suggestions about how to debug the issue but in my case, wifi is reliable and I don't see anything abnormal in dmesg. Is the wifi also dropping without the camera plugged in and without allsky.sh running?
I checked on my camera and I couldn't see any messages like that in dmesg. Does it seem to impact the performance?
I love the giant pole ! You'll get a clear view of the horizon. Congrats for the build. It looks really good. I'll add you to the map.
Oh wow! That's a really nice build. I really like to see when builders add features to the original project. Let me know how well it deals with dew. There are a few users in high humidity areas who were wondering how to fight humidity. Would you mind sharing your location? I'll add you to the map of allsky builders.
Hi Mike,Thanks for the feedback. Yes, USB2 cameras need a firmware upgrade in order to work properly. I believe I added a note in the Readme file on GitHub.For the dome, it depends what diameter you're using. In my case, a 4" dome doesn't add too much distortion to the horizon because the lens is close to the center of curvature. Moving the lens away from the dome will lessen the distortion. I also find that the stock lens that comes with the camera isn't really sharp on the edges.I haven't had any problem with heat and sunlight on the sensor. The camera has been running fine for 2+ years. If you live in a hot place, you could paint the tube in white to minimize heat accumulation.Are you using vnc or remote desktop to connect to the RPi? If so, you may have 2 instances of "cap...
Hi Mike,Thanks for the feedback. Yes, USB2 cameras need a firmware upgrade in order to work properly. I believe I added a note in the Readme file on GitHub.For the dome, it depends what diameter you're using. In my case, a 4" dome doesn't add too much distortion to the horizon because the lens is close to the center of curvature. Moving the lens away from the dome will lessen the distortion. I also find that the stock lens that comes with the camera isn't really sharp on the edges.I haven't had any problem with heat and sunlight on the sensor. The camera has been running fine for 2+ years. If you live in a hot place, you could paint the tube in white to minimize heat accumulation.Are you using vnc or remote desktop to connect to the RPi? If so, you may have 2 instances of "capture" running. The camera auto starts at boot but you can disable the autostart if you need to.The pi doesn't go to sleep. If it's not showing on your router, it may be slightly out of range. A dropping connection can come from various reasons. Try moving the camera closer and see if it still works in the morning.
Excellent, glad to hear that.For the keogram, I have a theory. If you use a long exposure, the first image can be all white. In order to optimize disk space, image magick stores this image in a greyscale format (only if using dark frame subtraction I believe).Then, when you reach image 5 to 10 or 15, it's no longer completely white so image magick returns an RGB image.The problem is that the keogram script is setting the output target to the same colorspace as image number 1. So when it reaches image 5, 10 or 15, it's trying to put RBG into a single channel image.... which fails.My current fix is to add "-type TrueColor" to line 23:convert "$FULL_FILENAME" "$DARK_FRAME" -compose minus_src -composite -type TrueColor "$FILENAME-processed.$EXTENSION"...
Excellent, glad to hear that.For the keogram, I have a theory. If you use a long exposure, the first image can be all white. In order to optimize disk space, image magick stores this image in a greyscale format (only if using dark frame subtraction I believe).Then, when you reach image 5 to 10 or 15, it's no longer completely white so image magick returns an RGB image.The problem is that the keogram script is setting the output target to the same colorspace as image number 1. So when it reaches image 5, 10 or 15, it's trying to put RBG into a single channel image.... which fails.My current fix is to add "-type TrueColor" to line 23:convert "$FULL_FILENAME" "$DARK_FRAME" -compose minus_src -composite -type TrueColor "$FILENAME-processed.$EXTENSION"In the meantime, if you want to re-generate the keograms, you can delete the first few images of your sequence and run the command manually.
I will take a look at this project, It uses the -auto-gamma function of Image Magick to balance the brightness.The ZWO sdk allows for auto-exposure but needs to capture images in video mode instead of snapshot. I haven't tried it but it should work for this project. However, when using auto-exposure, you either end up with a non linear timeline in your timelapse or you have to take this in account and add a delay between images when using a short exposure.
Looks like a solid waterproof case... with heat as well! kind of like the "Deluxe" allsky enclosure. Have you tried setting the startrails treshold to something higher than 0.1? Maybe 0.3 would work in your case. Keep me updated. I'm curious what settings work for users.
Hey Ron, That's just legacy code from the first version of the app. You can totally call saveImage.sh from capture.cpp the same way I'm calling endOfNight.shI will probably make that change in the next release. The only advantage of "entr" was that it was independent from any code and if you decided to generate the image from another binary (python, etc) then it would still work the same way. But I think the way the code has evolved a lot from the original release and we don't need 'entr' anymore.
Here's the difference you can expect with and without the sigmoid contrast.Without: http://www.thomasjacquin.com/allsky/videos/allsky-...With Sigmoid function: http://www.thomasjacquin.com/allsky/videos/allsky-...If you open 2 tabs side by side, you'll be able to play them both and tell the difference.For that specific night, I didn't save the stretched images, I stretched them afterwards and made a new timelapse.
After thinking about it over night, there's an simpler fix, just edit scripts/postData.sh on the RPi and change -0800 for your timezone (-0700 I believe). You'll have to change your GPS coordinates too in that file.I should also update that script someday to use lat/long from the settings.json file
I remember having that issue with the clock too. I thought it was related to daylight saving time. Check line 143 on controller.js. There's a hack to offset your timezone by 1 hr. Just uncomment it and adapt it to your timezone. It will probably work but I need to sort that issue for good someday.
I know what you mean. I also have too many hobbies. That's a pretty cool setup that you have here. Let me know how the sigmoid function works for you and I'll consider adding it as an option in saveImage.sh.That's a beautiful image of M31. How many hours integration on this one?I added you to the map but I'm not sure I put it at the right place. I think your GPS coordinates pointed to a town called "Oriental".Have you tried spraying the dome with some hydrophobic product such as "Neverwet"? Not sure if it works with dew though.
That's quite a handy script you found here. I have been experimenting a bit on my side and for moonless nights, the image magick sigmoid-contrast seems to work quite well.convert $file -sigmoidal-contrast 10x10% $file"_stretched.jpg"The first number is the contrast and the position of the S curve on the histogram.For the dark subtraction, I think a set of darks taken at different temperatures should work fine since the hot pixels have a fixed pattern.
Here's an example of the function applied to a still image.
Hey Ron, nice to hear that it worked well. Since the sensor has a fixed hot pixels pattern, you should be able to add a collection of dark frames and call them based on the temperature returned by the camera.That's a very powerful script you found. I'll take a look. In the meantime, you can try this:convert $file -sigmoidal-contrast 10x10% $file"_stretched.jpg"The first number is the amount of stretching, the second is where the sigmoid is centred (ref: http://www.imagemagick.org/Usage/color_mods/#sigmo...).It seems to work fine on moonless nights.
Thank you Jim. I have updated the repo for allsky-website. New features should work but I haven't really tested them. Please let me know if things are broken.I'm happy to see that you and other users are making customization to the scripts. My main idea while developing the project was to keep most of the logic as shell scripts so that they can be hacked by anyone and keep the compiled code to a minimum.I've also added your location to the map!
I think you may have to switch East and West on the overlay.
Good catch Travis. There's a check for incomplete images in keogram and startrails but not in timelapse. Looks like you've got the right command for the job. You can paste it before line 19 on timelapse.shI'll probably refactor timelapse.sh to cd into the image directory first instead of passing images/$1 to each command.In the meantime, here's a more generic version that should work too: find "images/$1" -name "*.$EXTENSION" - size 0 -delete
You can call that command every time you save if you want but since empty files are ignored by keograms and startrails, I wouldn't worry about it and I would call it only once in timelapse.
Have you tried to ssh directly to the host? ssh myexample.com or ssh <host_ip_address>?Usually, the first time you do it, it will ask you if you want to add the key to your known hosts.Then you should be able to ftp no problem.Also, make sure to use the right protocol for your host. If you can use ssh on that server, you should be able to use sftp. Otherwise, it may only work with ftp.
Yes it runs all day long but only saves images at night. I have to admit the tiled images are really strange. Almost looks like part of it is grey scale too.
Thanks for the tip. That would be good material for a wiki page. I'll see it I can gather tips provided by users into a page on GitHub.
It would be nice if GitHub had a place to submit "new feature ideas". For now, I'll keep this feature in my todo list and I'll add it in a future version. You can also send me some code by email. Yes I upload about 50mb each night to my host. I think I'm about 10BG+ now but I'm allowed up to 20. I may have to archive some at one point.
You guys are full of great ideas. I'll add the NSEW on my TODO list.
Hey Ronald, the overlay of images make me wonder it you don't have 2 processes running at the same time. Are you using VNC?The autostart script is called when you open a session so I believe it will start a new instance of "capture" when you login with a desktop environment.
Thank you so much. I can't guarantee that the code is 100% bug free but I'm doing my best to keep it working well while adding new features. I'm really glad to have feedback from testers and even contribution to the code.
Ronald, there was a recent update to the code that may fix the tearing in images. It is using a newer version of the ASI library and it now compiles statically. It may solve your issue with broken frames.
Oh man, I love to see these. Everyone has his own version and improvements. Looks very weatherproof.
Glad it was a simple fix on your side.As for the timelapse, that was my fault... I guess that's what I get for not testing my changes.In timelapse.sh line 20, replace ./images/'$1'/%s by %sThat should fix it for you. I have also pushed the changes onto the GitHub repo already.
So I think one of your images may be incomplete and the keogram failed to generate. Check image number 6 to see if you can open it.To re-run endOfNight.sh, open the script and change '12 hours ago for something else'... '24 hours ago' should work for you.Once the keogram works successfully, your startrails should work too and the timelapse should generate.
I just took a look at their example code (https://github.com/qhyccd-lzr/QHYCCD_Linux/blob/master/sample/LiveFrameSample.cpp) and it looks fairly similar to the one used by ZWO so I don't think it would be a big issue to write support for QHY5. However I don't own any camera from this manufacturer. I may get one in the future for testing purposes.
Thanks for the feedback. I really like your videos with the telescope in the foreground. Now I'm jealous of your weather and your gear! :)I am working on some startrails code currently but I'll try to get the image stretching after that.
I currently only supports ZWO cameras but it could possibly include support for other brands. The only specific part is in capture.cpp where I use ZWO's SDK to talk with the camera. Other brands have different SDKs and I haven't looked into them because I don't own their hardware. One thing worth noting here is that the only thing that capture.cpp does is saving the image. So In theory, there could be a capture_zwo.cpp, a capture_qhy5.cpp, a capture_altair.cpp, etc and it would work.
Thank you so much for that finding. As I don't have an ASI120, it would have been hard for me to find this one. I will add this to the makefile in "ifeq ($(platform), armv6)" and "ifeq ($(platform), armv7)" and make sure it compiles fine for both architectures. Hopefully it fixes this issue for everyone.
Changing the root password shouldn't affect the behaviour of the software. Changing the username would cause errors because the files are owned by user "pi".If you're getting permissions errors, it may be because the files are owned by root. Delete the allsky directory, clone the repo again and run the install script again with sudo.The GUI includes a web server so you won't need a second Raspberry Pi to view your images. Just install it and navigate to http://localhost.
Hi Frank,I've had the camera running outside since January 2016 and haven't noticed any damage to the sensor. I posted an answer to that Stack Exchange thread recently explaining how only a little bit of UV reaches the sensor after going through the acrylic dome and the Optical glass: https://raspberrypi.stackexchange.com/questions/76...However, heat may be more of a problem for you during summer (I don't have that pb here because Yukon summers are not that hot). You could paint the enclosure white to minimize this issue.Thomas
To prevent upload, open config.sh and set UPLOAD_IMG and UPLOAD_VIDEO to false.To retrieve images, you could leave them on the RPi and access them using Filezilla. (host: RPi IP address, login: pi, password: raspberry).If you want to store them on a flashdrive, you'll have to add an entry in fstab to auto mount the drive (ex: /mnt/usb/) and make a symbolic link from /home/pi/allsky/images/ to /mnt/usb/The Pi zero doesn't have any full size USB ports so you won't be able to plug the camera to it. Also, the Pi 3 has more processing power which saves time during timelapse generation.The constellation overlay is an implementation of this project: https://github.com/slowe/VirtualSkySomeday, when I have some spare time, I'll make my website easy to download and install. In the meantime, you c...
To prevent upload, open config.sh and set UPLOAD_IMG and UPLOAD_VIDEO to false.To retrieve images, you could leave them on the RPi and access them using Filezilla. (host: RPi IP address, login: pi, password: raspberry).If you want to store them on a flashdrive, you'll have to add an entry in fstab to auto mount the drive (ex: /mnt/usb/) and make a symbolic link from /home/pi/allsky/images/ to /mnt/usb/The Pi zero doesn't have any full size USB ports so you won't be able to plug the camera to it. Also, the Pi 3 has more processing power which saves time during timelapse generation.The constellation overlay is an implementation of this project: https://github.com/slowe/VirtualSkySomeday, when I have some spare time, I'll make my website easy to download and install. In the meantime, you can play with the current implementation of it but it's not well documented: https://github.com/thomasjacquin/allsky-websiteThomas
Hey Travis, Looks like the problem here is not related to the allsky code but to Raspbian unable to fetch packages.First, make sure that your internet connection is working and run "sudo apt-get update" to update the list of available software. Once this part is functional, you shouldn't have any trouble installing the allsky software.Thomas
Thanks for the code. I started playing with it and it brings up the faint stars. I'll keep playing with the settings and I may add an option for stretching in a future release. I'll do some research to automate the brightness setting in order to stretch only the dark images.I'm only using the sdk provided by ZWO to save the image and the buffer size allocated to an image is already fixed. I'm not sure if there would be an easy workaround on the software side.
Hi Eric. What camera are you using? Is it a USB2 camera such as the ASI120MC or ASI120MM. These cameras are not playing super nice on Linux so ZWO released a firmware patch tool that you can download in order to make the USB2 cameras compatible with Linux systems.I have never used a Synology server but I believe you can set up the FTP access like they do in this guide: https://www.broadbandbuyer.com/features/2643-how-to-access-files-on-a-synology-nas-device-via-ftp/For the ftp-settings.sh file, use the values you previously set in Synology:PROTOCOL='ftp or sftp (depends what you chose in synology)'USER='username'PASSWORD='password'HOST='IP address of your server'IMGDIR='/allsky/'MP4DIR='/allsky/videos/'
For the second overlay, you have 2 options:- Get you hands dirty by editing capture.cpp and recompiling it. Look for this line and add another one:cvText(pRgb, ImgText, iTextX, iTextY, fontsize, linewidth, linetype[linenumber], fontname[fontnumber], fontcolor);You'll need to change ImgText, iTextX and iTextY.- Use ImageMagick to add an overlay: http://www.imagemagick.org/Usage/annotating/You'll want to add this code in saveImage.sh after the following comment:# Save image in images/current directory
Hi,There is no option to get it to work during the day. I may add one later but what I usually achieve focus by day by changing the longitude in settings.json. Take you longitude and subtract/add 180. If you test at noon, it will be midnight for the new setting. For example, I live at -135 longitude. I can set it to longitude 45 and the camera will think it's dark and start taking pictures.A sensor tends to accumulate heat and deliver noisier images overtime. When it is outside, it will be less sensitive to it. If you wait for the camera + enclosure to reach thermal equilibrium with outside temperature, you should be able to get a good dark frame.If the weather changes a lot and you get large temperature gradients during the night, you may get more noise even when using the dark frame s...
Hi,There is no option to get it to work during the day. I may add one later but what I usually achieve focus by day by changing the longitude in settings.json. Take you longitude and subtract/add 180. If you test at noon, it will be midnight for the new setting. For example, I live at -135 longitude. I can set it to longitude 45 and the camera will think it's dark and start taking pictures.A sensor tends to accumulate heat and deliver noisier images overtime. When it is outside, it will be less sensitive to it. If you wait for the camera + enclosure to reach thermal equilibrium with outside temperature, you should be able to get a good dark frame.If the weather changes a lot and you get large temperature gradients during the night, you may get more noise even when using the dark frame subtraction.A way to improve this feature would be to have a set of dark frames at different temperatures and use the camera's internal temperature sensor to automatically load the appropriate frame.
I love to see new builds and hear success stories about this project. Thanks for sharing the picture.
Sorry Dave, I'm only reading this now. For some reason Instructables failed to notify me about your message.- Regarding the cable, even though the camera is USB3.0, the Raspberry Pi only has USB2 ports so a standard right angle USB2 cable will do just fine.- Focus can be tricky but it you modify your longitude and run it by day, you can get a pretty good focus.- In summer, I take the camera off because it's not dark enough to see stars but that's a good point, it could by quite hot.- The focus seems to shift a bit when the nights are cold. I found my stars become blurry around -35C but they come back to pinpoint when it warms up.- If you're using the GUI, you shouldn't need to use a remote desktop solution. The web based interface should let you do most operations.- Auto-deletion is rea...
Sorry Dave, I'm only reading this now. For some reason Instructables failed to notify me about your message.- Regarding the cable, even though the camera is USB3.0, the Raspberry Pi only has USB2 ports so a standard right angle USB2 cable will do just fine.- Focus can be tricky but it you modify your longitude and run it by day, you can get a pretty good focus.- In summer, I take the camera off because it's not dark enough to see stars but that's a good point, it could by quite hot.- The focus seems to shift a bit when the nights are cold. I found my stars become blurry around -35C but they come back to pinpoint when it warms up.- If you're using the GUI, you shouldn't need to use a remote desktop solution. The web based interface should let you do most operations.- Auto-deletion is really something I should implement because it caught me a few times already.- Next update is about automatic startrails stacking but the one after should tackle meteor detection.- The capture.cpp file is specific to ASI cameras so it won't work with other brands. However, this is the only file specific to ZWO so it would be replaced in the future by another implementation.
You're welcome. Good luck with your build.
So far, only northern lights,satellites, aeroplanes, clouds and meteors...
Hi Ron, I like your results with the stretched image. Please keep me in the loop with your ImageMagick experimentation.You could get power from the power cord just before the RPi power adapter. That way you get 120/240V and you're not taking any watts from the 2.5A power supply. You'll need to find a way to plug a resistor (about 5W should do it) to the main 120V.I added you to the map.
Hi Dave, I'm just seeing this now. Glad you figured it out. :)
Depends where you live but GoDaddy is a popular hosting provider in the U.S. Once on the admin panel (cpanel for example), you'll have to create an FTP account. Then you can use it to upload the images and videos.I also use dlink's dynamic dns service because I have a dlink router. This let me access the camera's administration panel (live view, archives, timelapse, etc) from anywhere.
Sorry about that. I'm aware of that issue, just open gui/install.sh and replace php5-cgi by php7-cgi. Save the file and run sudo gui/install.sh again.That should fix it. I'll try to find an alias that works for everyone.
Nice Build Martin. I love to see how everyone uses available materials to build the enclosure.
Hi Per,Have you updated your camera to the latest compatible firmware? It's available at this address: http://astronomy-imaging-camera.com/software/FWToo...It only applied to USB2.0 cameras in order to fix a packet size on the USB protocol.
sorry I meant line 5 in endOfNight.sh
Hi Paul,I added postData.sh in the last release. You don't really need it. It's just a helper if you have a website and you want to send the next twilight time to know when to resume live view.You can add a # sign at the beginning of line 5 in postData.sh. Then it will stop trying to upload. I'll update the repo as well.
Nice video... just have to wait for clear skies now. By the way, copy/paste from the terminal is CTRL+SHIFT+c and CTRL+SHIFT+v
Thanks a lot Paul. I'm really happy to hear about positive results because I could only test it on my own camera which, at -20C has only 3 or 4 hot pixels, so I wasn't sure if it would work well for others too.
Here's the new location for ZWO forum: http://bbs.astronomy-imaging-camera.com/viewtopic....Maybe a few resistors can keep the temperature above dew point.
It was live yesterday. Try a gain in a bit. It may take them a few hours if they are migrating their forum to a new place.
Until I make a fancy "update" button on the GUI, I believe the easiest is to copy settings.json and config.sh somewhere to keep track of your current settings, delete the allsky directory and clone the repo again.Then edit both settings.json and config.sh to add your camera settings and FTP info back in.I know it's a bit of work but that's the easiest until I figure out a 1-click solution.
Alright, so if you have the fstab step figured out, you now need to create the symbolic link.First, delete (or rename if you want to keep the content) the /home/pi/allsky/images directory because we will replace it with a symlink.now, in the terminal:ln -s /mnt/usb /home/pi/allsky/imagesMake sure to replace "usb" by the directory you created earlier (the one listed in the line you added in fstab). Also, make sure that your are the owner of that directory: sudo chown -R pi:pi /mnt/usbThat should be all you need.
Hi Per,Sorry for the delay, I've been thinking about it and the log looks fine. The only thing I can think of is maybe a dependency issue that wasn't installed properly during the install.sh script.Can you try deleting the allsky folder and got over the installation again? Look for any errors in the terminal.Thomas
That's what I do too !
Hi Picoranger (or is it Pico?) :)Thanks for confirming that the ASI1600MC works, I'll add it to the list in the README.The file you want to modify is saveImage.shhttps://github.com/thomasjacquin/allsky/blob/maste...By default, the only image being uploaded is the preview (smaller image) and the full images and video stay on the RPi SD Card. Then you have to delete the old one manually to make some space.You can access all of this using filezilla.So if I understand correctly, you want to save all the pictures and videos on your local server instead of the RPi ?Thomas
The darkframe subtraction code is done. I will test it tonight before releasing it to the master branch on gitHub.
Hi Dave,Yes the ASI290 should work fine. It actually has a slightly larger sensor that the ASI224 so it will cover a little bit more sky.The blue extension cord is plugged directly to the Pi power adapter. See step 2 on that page: http://www.thomasjacquin.com/make-your-own-allsky-...
It seems like it is writing the next image into the previous one. I use 64 GB because I use about 1 GB per night and the nights are 19 hrs long in winter. I use class 10 cards such as the Samsung Evo+.Does the segmentation happen in the image at the root of the project or in the "images/current" directory or both? I'm trying to rule out a speed issue with saveImage.sh
I'm just back from 1 month vacation without a computer. Today, I'm putting my head back in coding mode. I'll try to release the dark frame subtraction in the next couple of days. It should be fairly straightforward but I need to do some testing before I release it.
Hi, it seems like the web pages are owned by root instead of www-data.In a terminal, go to /var/www/html and run ls -l to see the owner of the files.If some files are owned by root, you can correct that by running sudo chown -R www-data:www-data /var/www/html
I think the 10 ms exposure may cause the segmentation. I have never tried to go that low so it hasn't really been tested with such short exposure.Do you also get segmentation with longer exposure? 3 sec for example.
You're not the only one with the segmented image problem. They seem to all come from an ASI120 camera. One user reported seeing the same issue using PHD Guiding so I think it may be related to the camera firmware.In order to get a preview, you could install the GUI. It will do the same thing as the display option except that it will show in your browser instead so you shouldn't see any segmented image.
Yes, that should be the correct one. I believe you can also rollback to the original firmware later if you want so it's not a permanent change. It should work fine on the Rpi3.
Hi David,That's a great project. On the software side, I'm not sure you could disable the camera but I think you could save some energy by throttling some processes such as avconv.There's a line in allsky.sh that you can enable by uncommenting it. It uses cpulimit to limit the amount of cpu power during the generation of the timelapse. It will take longer to build the video but it may use less power.Good luck with the off-grid setup.Thomas
Hi Paul,I can see the hot pixels on your video. You probably don't have nights at -30C like I do :)I have started implementing the dark frame subtraction feature but I'm currently on vacation away from my computer. In the meantime, you can do a subtraction with image magick.You'll have to create a dark frame first and place it in /home/pi/allsky. Change saveImage.sh like so:[...]mkdir -p images/current; CLEANFILENAME="$FILENAME-$(date +'%Y%m%d%H%M%S')-CLEAN.$EXTENSION"convert "$FULL_FILENAME" dark.PNG -compose minus_src -composite "$CLEANFILENAME";cp "$CLEANFILENAME" "images/current/$FILENAME-$(date +'%Y%m%d%H%M%S').$EXTENSION";[...]replace $FULL_FILENAME by $CLEANFILENAME in the rest of the file.
Hi Paul,What camera model do you have? There are some tweaks needed with the USB2 version of the ASI120.Have you restarted (system tab on the GUI) the camera after you changed the configuration? The new config is applied on restart. I'll need to make that part more user friendly.
Did you chose RBG24, RAW8 or RAW16 ? It is set with the option called image type.
Hi Per,Can you try deleting the binary file called "capture" and recompile it by running "make capture"?Then try to run allsky.sh again.If it doesn't solve the issue, can you post the last few lines from log.txt? There may be a problem with one of the arguments.
That's right Juan. It takes photos all night and makes a video at the end of the night. I'm planning to add support for Astride to enable meteor detection. (https://github.com/dwkim78/ASTRiDE) but right now I'm away for the vacations without a computer :)
Thanks for the update Roberto,Have you tried subtracting a dark frame using image magick? It's a 1 line command that you can add to saveImage.shI haven't added it yet to my code but you can take a look at that forked version: https://github.com/kukulin/allsky/blob/master/save...convert "$FILENAME" dark.PNG -compose minus_src -composite "$CLEANFILENAME";My code has evolved a bit but you should be able to add that line (line 15) in order to do dark subtraction. Let me know if you need help with the script.
Hey Anis,Sounds like you have a slightly outdated version of the code. I fixed a few things regarding the timelpase this weekend. You should clone again and let me know if things are still breaking.For a website template, you could use my own as an example and start from there: https://github.com/thomasjacquin/allsky-websiteIt's a work in progress and I haven't made a "settings" page yet so you may have to edit a few pages such as index.html and controller.json. Let me know if you need help with it.
Hey Roberto, I found the issue and I have updated the GitHub repository. There was a permission issue with settings.json and an incorrect package in the gui/install.sh script (php5-cgi changed to php-cgi).You can clone the repo and try again.
Hey Roberto,Have you restarted the Pi after the installation? You can also try restarting lighttpd: sudo service lighttpd restartCan you also do an ls -l on the content of /var/www/html ? The files should be owned by www-data. If not, try sudo chown -R www-data:www-data /var/www/html/*Let me know how it goes.Thomas
Yes Roberto, capturing the images in RAW should make the dark subtraction easier because there's no compression applied, therefore the pixel value is not averaged from neighbour photosites.You can set the "-type" option to 0 or 2 to capture in RAW. 0 is RAW8 and 2 is RAW16.I will put in place a dark frame subtraction feature in the software as soon as I'm done coding the GUI.