Hi, you can follow the instructions from this page: https://github.com/thomasjacquin/allsky
I don't know if they would grow in Indonesia. Their natural habitat is quite different (cold snowy winters, warm summer and high altitude) but that doesn't mean they can't grow in Indonesia.
Nice Olivier! Thanks for sharing your build!
For this task, I would either connect to the Raspberry Pi using an FTP software (such as filezilla) or use SCP to copy all images or directories to your computer through the terminal. https://www.raspberrypi.org/documentation/remote-access/ssh/scp.md
Hi Erik, during the day when auto-exposure is used, it's the camera library that decides what exposure to use. I believe it's looking at the over-exposed and under-exposed areas and picks something in between. I don't have control on that value. During cloudy days, it appears quite dark but when the sky is blue, I find that the exposure is pretty good.
User Rob has made a fork of the project in order to make it compatible whit this camera: https://github.com/RobboRob/allsky
The program uses your latitude and longitude to determine if it's day or night. During the night, it captures images and saves them to disk. During thew day, it uses gain 0 and auto-exposure but doesn't save images to disk. It looks like you need to update your lat, long.
Those are nice additions to the original project Serge.
Nice setup Gord!
Thanks Albert, I added you to the map.
Hi Alexis, I don't know how the seedlings will grow at your location but there's only one way to know.Some people are growing some giant sequoias in Florida (https://www.giant-sequoia.com/gallery/usa/florida/) so I don't see why you couldn't in Dominican Republic. Good Luck. Let me know if it works
Hi, my first guess would be overwatering. You soil looks pretty wet. I would recommend watering on a regular basis but only when the top part of the soil looks dry. Otherwise, the roots can't breath and the plant is prone to root rot.
Yes Pi 4b should work.
Sorry for the late answer. Did you fix it?Try ssh mysite.nl in a terminal to accept the host key first.
Hello Martin, I have the same hardware so it should work fine.I would disregard the debug descriptor warning. I get it too.The service is loaded and active so that part is fine. What is the problem you're seeing?
It takes a little while for the new leaves to show up in the center. I bet they will be growing within a week. Give them progressively more indirect lighting to increase photosynthesis when they start showing up.
You may have to add the address to the list of known hosts. In a terminal do ssh allskysudmilano.it and it should ask you if you want to add it.
Hello! I think the problem here is your soil. It looks pretty compact and I think it may not retain water very well. The best is a probably to use potting soil as it is rich in organic matter and vermiculite that trap the water like a sponge but it still lets the roots breath.Also keep in mind that conifer trees don't like being transplanted so it's best if you put the seeds directly in the best soil from the beginning.Good luck.
I do not have any experience with Altervista. That might be a question to ask to their support staff. Post your ftp-settings.sh without the password and I can take a look
Nice! If you have a web host, you can upload this project (https://github.com/thomasjacquin/allsky-website) onto it. Alternatively, you could host the website on the Raspberry Pi but it add more load to the CPU and if you turn it off, it's no longer accessible.Refer to the documentation to configure the website for your needs.
Hi Jenya,I think once a week might not be enough. I can't really tell how dry the soil is from the photos but I think I was watering mine every couple of days at that stage (depending on the temperature). As long as you have fungicide, it should limit the root rot. You can water around the stem as long as there's no water standing around it for long periods of time.
They will eventually get rid of it when the new leaves are growing. The only inconvenient is that the first leaves are here to collect some light to make the plant strong enough to grow new leaves. If they stay stuck together they get less energy but I think they will still grow anyways.
Hi Jeny,To remove the enveloppe around the first leaves, I usually put a drop of water on it to soften it and then I use a combination of tweezers and a utility knife to cut a small opening. Once this shell has started to tear, you can use 2 tweezers to slowly rip it open. Add more water droplets and repeat steps if it's not coming off right away.For direct sunlight, I would do it in this order: indirect sunlight indoors, direct sunlight indoors (once you have new leaves coming up in the middle), indirect sunlight outdoor (once you have the first branch) and finally direct sunlight outdoor when they have been outside for a couple weeks. The reason for these steps that they need to build a tolerance to UV light and wind.
Did you change the password or was it still the default 'raspberry' ?
The images are uploaded from the Raspberry Pi to your host using FTP so you don't need any specific setup for that.If for some reason you needed the host to talk to the Raspberry Pi, then yes you would need a no-ip or similar service.
They are in Eastern France. Summers are hot and in winter temperatures sometimes go below -5. I would say that the period of growth goes from end of April to beginning of August.
They grow fast if they are growing in ideal conditions (deep well drained soil with lots of water available) and once they have reached a certain age. For the first 20 years or so, they will grow slowly, maybe a foot per year in average.
Try deleting the file /etc/raspap/raspap.auth. That should revert the password to 'secret'.
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Wooden LED Gaming Display Powered by Raspberry Pi Zero
Looks like capture.cpp wasn't compiled successfully. Try running the install script again and look for errors.
Hi, no I haven't seen this problem on my ASI224. If the same thing happens with SharpCap, I am thinking this could be a firmware issue. Some sensors have a different matrix and maybe your internal camera settings got updated inadvertently through some astro software?
Can you make sure that this file /etc/lighttpd/lighttpd.conf is the same as the one found at this address https://github.com/thomasjacquin/allsky/blob/master/gui/lighttpd.confEspecially around line 45. The was an update a while ago that broke the CSS file and resulted in an issue similar to what you're having.
That's awesome Melanie. No snow yet in Northern Finland?
Hi Melanie, did you get this figured out?
That's so cool! I like the reflective wings and the glowy eyes!
I would wait until they have new leaves coming from the middle. At that stage, the stem and roots will be stronger and less prone to breaking. Use something smooth like a spoon handle to slowly lift them individually. Try to keep some soil around the roots and transplant them into a new pot with similar soil composition.
These seedlings look great! I would just get the cheapest spray fungicide from the hardware store (usually copper based I believe). That'll do just fine. It's just to protect them from stem rot at a young age. Once they start making new leaves in the center, they are more sturdy.
Hello, sorry for the late reply. With the cling wrap on the seeding trays, the moisture content is likely to stay high which is good to prevent dehydration at that early stage of the seedling (as long as you poked enough holes) however it is also prone to fungi growth as well. Stem rot is a common problem at this stage. I would recommend the use of fungicide if you can. You can spray it on the soil at anytime.If you decide to remove the cling wrap, make sure to add a little bit of water everyday to keep the soil moist.
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Hi Peleg, try spraying the paper towel with a fungicide. That should keep the mold from developing inside the plastic bag.
Yes, I am using a 3/4" threaded rod but a bolt will work the same way. Just drill a hole on each end. One is for the motor which gets attached with a small allen key, the other hole is for a pin to keep the worm gear centred.The gear is from here: https://www.sdp-si.com/products/Gears/Spur-Gears-72-Pitch.php They also have worm gears if you don't want to make your own.I'll check at home where the rest of the design is.
Nice! I added you to the map.
Hey Brady, that's a good question. What I like to do is to dig a small hole with a pencil and put the seed with the root at the bottom. That way it's already in a vertical position.I make the hole deep enough so that the top of the seed envelope is just clearing the soil surface. That way I know where is is in the future.However, just laying them flat and sprinkling some dirt over should work too. You just need to make sure the seed is no deeper than an inch in the soil.In nature, the seed envelope usually stays in the ground and the seedling starts as an upside down U shape. With our method you may have to help the seedling get rid of its envelope in some cases.
The 30 degree angle is because I live a latitude 60. (90 - 60 = 30). It doesn't have to be too precise. You can shim the south or north end to align the axis with polaris.The height of front and back should be about the same. If the top is not horizontal, the telescope may fall over at some point.The curve is specific to the platform, not to the latitude. I could have made a 45 degree platform with a conventional vertical segment but I would have to raise the south side so much that the telescope would be quite off balance.The vertical segments only depend on the distance from the platform axis. However, in my case, the axis is 60 degrees from horizontal. Some may have 40 or 20, hence the different vertical segments for each platform.
I haven't seen this personally but some users have reported the issue with ASI120 cameras. I am unsure if this is a firmware issue or not.
Thanks for the report. I haven't saved my images in PNG format in a long time so I will have to test it.JPEGs are much smaller so it may be related to image size or dark subtraction or both. I'll give it a shot at home.
They look really healthy. Congrats on growing those 2 trees.
That's awesome, thanks for sharing your build. I like the Peltier addition. Let us know how if it works well.
Quel objectif as tu mis sur la camera?
Si je me souviens bien, cet objectif fourni un champ de vision de 150 degres avec un capteur 1/3", ce qui est deja bien mais ne couvre pas tout le ciel. J'utilise un objectif Arecont 1.55mm avec une ASI224MC qui me permet de couvrir pratiquement tout le ciel.
Je vais regarder comment configurer la carte vu que ton objectif ne couvre pas tout le ciel.Aussi, j'ai remarque que tes liens vers timelapse, keograms et startrails ne fonctionnent pas. Je pense que ca vient du fait que ta page d'accueil n'est pas dans le dossier /allskyTu peux arranger le probleme en modifiant index.html et en enlevant la partie /allsky de ces liens<li><a href="../allsky/videos" title="Archived Timelapses"><i class="fa fa-2x fa-fw fa-play-circle"></i></a></li> <li><a href="../allsky/keograms" title="Archived Keograms"><i class="fa fa-2x fa-fw fa-barcode"></i></a></li> <li><a href="../allsky/startrails" title="Archi…
Je vais regarder comment configurer la carte vu que ton objectif ne couvre pas tout le ciel.Aussi, j'ai remarque que tes liens vers timelapse, keograms et startrails ne fonctionnent pas. Je pense que ca vient du fait que ta page d'accueil n'est pas dans le dossier /allskyTu peux arranger le probleme en modifiant index.html et en enlevant la partie /allsky de ces liens<li><a href="../allsky/videos" title="Archived Timelapses"><i class="fa fa-2x fa-fw fa-play-circle"></i></a></li> <li><a href="../allsky/keograms" title="Archived Keograms"><i class="fa fa-2x fa-fw fa-barcode"></i></a></li> <li><a href="../allsky/startrails" title="Archived Startrails"><i class="fa fa-2x fa-fw fa-circle-o-notch"></i></a></li>
Il manque une double apostrophe at la fin de cette ligne dans le fichier config.jstitle: "ST APO,
Dans ce cas, il faut peut etre voir avec OVH pour confirmer que les identifiants fonctionnent correctement (identifiant, mot de passe et serveur).
Bonjour David, Peux-tu me donner quelques details supplémentaires afin que je puisse t'aider. Le script ftp-settings.sh contient les informations pour la connexion vers ton site. Tu peux utiliser FileZilla ou un logiciel similaire pour verifier que ton identifiant, mot de passe et host sont corrects.
If you bring daytime exposure to a low value (1000) it will be close to real time. You can view the image on the GUI. Turn the lens by slow increments until the image is sharp.
There's no graduation and the threads are really fine. That's why it feels like it's turning forever. Do the focus by day and it'll give you a pretty good approximation of the focus you need for the stars. Then at night, you'll only have to change the focus slightly. Make a pencil mark on the lens to remember the position once you've found the right focal length.
I haven't tested the preview option since the RPi4 came out. There might be a bug there. I'll take a look. I usually use the GUI instead for viewing images during day or night but that may not be an option in your case.
Can you try leaving width and height to their default value? 0 means max height and max width.If you want to reduce the image size, try using bin 2 instead.
I haven't tried but I think it would work. You'll probably have to specify the full path though. Something like /home/pi/pictures/darks/20_dark.png
The path for the dark file is near the bottom of config.sh. You can change it there and restart the allsky service.
You need to modify /etc/lighttpd/lighttpd.conf directly. Modifying the one in the GUI folder won't fix the issue.You will need sudo to modify /etc/lighttpd/lighttpd.confI would do it straight from the terminalsudo nano /etc/lighttpd/lighttpd.confThen hit ctrl+x to saveand then y for yesthen restart the lighttpd service
Yes, that’s the problem. Your /etc/lighttpd/lighttpd.conf file is different. It should have these 2 lines near the bottom:include_shell "/usr/share/lighttpd/use-ipv6.pl " + server.portinclude_shell "/usr/share/lighttpd/create-mime.conf.pl"include "/etc/lighttpd/conf-enabled/*.conf"
Oh I think you need to pass the full path of the config file.lighttpd -t -f /etc/lighttpd/lighttpd.conf
What does this command say now?lighttpd -t -f lighttpd.conf
There should be a space between -t and -f
Darn, that's a stubborn issue. You can test you config file by running this command: lighttpd -t -f lighttpd.confit'll tell you if there is an issue with the file itself.
Make sure the new changes made it all the way to your /etc/lighttpd/lighttpd.conf file. Near the bottom, there should be a line that says include_shell "/usr/share/lighttpd/create-mime.conf.pl"
I usually cover the dome manually, take darks and then resume capture normally. But that only works because my camera is at ground level. However, once you've taken the set of darks, you shouldn't need to take more in the future. One way to generate these darks would be to place the camera in a freezer and bring it out to room temperature. That would cover a range from 0 to 20C.
I just did a fresh install on a Pi4 and there was indeed an error in lighttpd.conf. I have fixed the code. Can you try again with the latest changes?
Hi Werner, I have plans to integrate some code to make temperature-dependant darks. The idea would be to cover the camera for a certain period of time and a new dark would be saved every time the temperature drops by X degrees. Then the software would use the appropriate dark based on the sensor temperature.
Is service lighttpd status still returning an error?
The file looks good. You should be able to run "sudo gui/install.sh" then the lighttpd service should start properly. I don't see why it wouldn't accept that configuration file.
Well that's a good start. What is the status of the lighttpd service?I made a change to the lighttpd.conf a few days ago but I don't think it would break the service. It seems to run fine at home on a 3B+ and users have reported it to fix their issues as well.
Could you paste the content of /etc/lighttpd/lighttpd.conf?I just want to check which version you have.
Hi Olivia,I would get an LED light bulb with a 6500K colour temperature. They are usually called "Day light". That will replace the sun. You can put that light on a timer to replicate the day/night cycles.Sequoia trees really love bright environments.
Good question, I will do some research and see if it could be the default. I think it should work for everyone.
Currently, the capture part of the software is using ZWO’s libraries to talk to the camera so it’s specific to ASI cameras. However, it could work with a QHY with a bit of code modification. However I don’t have a QHY camera so I haven’t started implementing it.
Ok well there's clearly an issue with openCV failing to save the image. Did you run the install script on the Pi3 or 4 before swapping the SD card between the 2 boards?
Your settings look good.One thing I would do is to run the install script again to see if there are any errors showing up. Then I would stop the allsky service (sudo service allsky stop) and run it manually (./allsky.sh) to get some information in the terminal.
Can you run the install script again and look for errors? It seems like it's missing something here.
Does the image.jpg file update periodically? I'm talking about the one located at /home/pi/allsky/image.jpgThat's what I would check first.
Maybe try this: stop the allsky service and run ./allsky.sh in a terminal. That way you'll get some debugging info.To me it seems like the issue is not coming from the GUI but from the capture side of things.
Ha! good find,I should add an option in the config or do some kind of detection.
Hi Brandon,Nice build! You shouldn't have any dew with that setup.For the lens, the Arecont 1.55mm is what I use but I'm sure users have had success with other lenses. You may want to go with a fisheye lens designed for 1/2" sensors since your camera has a 1/1/8" one.
Hello,Sorry for the delay, did you get any help on that? The RPi already has a web server in place if you're using the GUI. There is also an alias in place to read the image that is in /home/pi/allsky. You can just put your website in /etc/www/html/ and it should work.
Well, the temperature doesn't go too low in winter so that's a good point. Then you need to find some soil that stays moist during summer months. I've never been to Iceland but I am sure there are good areas where redwoods would grow.
Once in the fridge, since they're sealed, you should't have to add more water. When you place them at room temperature, you'll need to open the bags and blow in them to inflate the bags. That should add enough moisture. However if you notice that the filters are a bit dry, you can add a tea spoon of water before closing the bag.
The ASI183mm has a huge sensor so it produces massive images. Being a relatively small computer, the RPi has limited processing power. Stacking or stitching small images works fine but with large images, it reached some kind of limit.Try setting the binning to 2 or 3 depending on what the sensor can handle. That will reduce resolution but it may run better.
Hi Alan, you can try re-installing the GUI and look for any errors. If you know it installed properly, run 'ifconfig' from the terminal to get your RPi's IP address.
I believe you will get less reflection if you are close to the dome. However, you may get distortion on stars near the horizon (depends on the thickness). I place my lens somewhere close to the center of curvature of the dome. That way, light rays always hit the acrylic dome perpandicularly.
Thank you for that detailed review and including the list of parts you've used. I like the timeline controls you have on the website.I am still investigating the fragmented images issue. I think this comes from the fact that the images gets overwritten all the time and sometimes things get a little slower and the copy into the images directory isn't happeing fast enough.
You're absolutely right. Thanks for catching that. I'll prepare a fix for it.