I personally don't but some users who live in high humidity areas do. You can solder a few resistors together to get a little bit of heat inside the dome and stay above dew point.
The Pi 3 generates enough heat to keep the dew off the dome in my case but my climate is fairly dry. It depends where you live I think and how weathertight your case is.
The flashing under the trailer is galvanized steel. There is no undercoat on it.
Hi Shannon, congrats on your seedlings, that's exciting!My guess is that being in the southern hemisphere, the length of day wasn't enough for the seedlings to enter the next stage of growth. This species relies a lot on available light. Increasing the lighting period (artificially or by waiting for longer days) would probably help trigger the new leaves. As long as the stems are strong, they shouldn't die. If cotyledons and the stem become soft, that's a generally a sign of root rot (too much water)At that early stage, the soil mixture is not critical but it's good to have a well drained substrate. Regular potting mix + fungicide works well.In the wild, a lot of seedlings germinate in what's left after forest fires (ash + soil) so it's also a good idea to incorporate some ash in the mi...
Hi Shannon, congrats on your seedlings, that's exciting!My guess is that being in the southern hemisphere, the length of day wasn't enough for the seedlings to enter the next stage of growth. This species relies a lot on available light. Increasing the lighting period (artificially or by waiting for longer days) would probably help trigger the new leaves. As long as the stems are strong, they shouldn't die. If cotyledons and the stem become soft, that's a generally a sign of root rot (too much water)At that early stage, the soil mixture is not critical but it's good to have a well drained substrate. Regular potting mix + fungicide works well.In the wild, a lot of seedlings germinate in what's left after forest fires (ash + soil) so it's also a good idea to incorporate some ash in the mix as a source of minerals. Not too much because it tends to make the soil more compact.
Thanks a lot. It's really nice to receive such a comment from a home builder. We did some research before building but it's always comforting to get a confirmation of our decisions by a professional.
Yes we have considered it and we still want to install solar panels in the future. That's why we decided to go with LEDs, a 12V water pump and 12V composting toilet. For now we have access to the grid and the propane range is not functional yet so we rely on electricity for the oven. However once the propane line is installed, the only electricity we'll need will be for small appliances. Ideally, we would have a solution similar to Tesla's Powerwall with enough power to go through the whole day.
I am glad you liked it. Thanks for the vote :)
Thank you Jessy, I'm sure it would also make a lovely embroidery studio! ;)
Thank you for your vote and for reading it all!
Thank you :)
Thanks! The reason we went with 12V for the pump is to be less dependent on the grid (we also chose the 12V version for the toilet). In the future, we would like to have solar panels and batteries to cover most of our electrical consumption (at least in the summer). Also, in the Yukon, we regularly have an unfortunate creature that makes its way into a transformer and cuts the power for the whole territory so we can't always rely on it.For the trailer flashing, you're right, it would need some sealing at one point. During the construction, we had a lot of rain and I had to wait for the EPS to completely dry so I didn't seal the metal sheets together.
Thank you. It is actually fairly common for tiny houses on wheels to be built like that. Some use metal trusses to save on weight. For the north, it's not really recommended as it creates a thermal bridge and lets your heat escape more easily.In our case, we only intend to move it once (about 30km) because we didn't own any property at the time be built it. The choice was to build on skids and have a crane pick up the house or build on a trailer.As for plumbing, it uses PEX tubing so it's quite flexible.But I agree that if you own the land, it doesn't really make sense to build your house on a trailer.
Yes we did! But after doing a bit more research, we realised that wood is a much better insulator that metal and when you have a stud every 2 feet, that's a lot of thermal bridges that let your heat escape.If we didn't live in a place here it goes as low as -40C, we would have probably chosen metal studs.
Hi Jerry, those are all good questions.To be honest with you, I am not sure how much the house weighs yet. I'll have to drive it to the weigh scale. My estimation is that we're probably close to the trailer maximum of 14,400 lbs, but that's because we went with 10.5 ft width instead of the traditional 8.5 ft.The trailer tongue has a utility storage on it. This is the future location of the propane bottles.For our house, you need a wide load licence but if it was 8.5 ft wide, you wouldn't need it. We haven't moved it yet because we don't own a large pick up truck but we'll move it next spring.
Really nice project. I like the stone spray finish + the wooden parts. They make a great contrast.
Wooden Programmable Puzzle Box
Thank you !
Thanks a lot, I'm happy if it helps anyone get more motivation and ideas!
Energy Efficient Tiny House...View Instructable »
One user reported using it successfully with 40W solar panels and a 16Ah battery. He said the Pi3 + camera was using 2W of power (5V at 0.4 amp). In theory a 26.8 Ah battery could last 67 hours (almost 3 days) but you have to take in account tasks that take more CPU power (image processing, timelapse, upload) and outside temperature. The cold could cut the battery capacity in half easily. (That's still enough to last the whole night).Please update us if you set up a battery operated system with success!
Yes I do. In my prototype, I just tied the copper wires through the holes of the adapter prongs and applied heat shrink on it. It's been working fine.In more recent iterations of the project, once the main power cable is passed through the threaded ABS cap, I add a female plug. That way, I can connect and disconnect the adapter easily if needs be.
Hi Juan, not yet, I did focus on daytime and auto-exposure in v0.6.Meteor detection will require some more intense computing power from the Pi so I will need to think a bit more about how to optimize the analysis prior to implementation.
Hey Ron, Sorry for the delay, I was in Alaska for the week end. I will check what's wrong with "delay" in fixed exposure mode. By the way, I have updated the Readme file recently. I have included a table to explain the settings.I'll keep you updated about that delay issue.
For some reason, ZWO's library uses microseconds for exposure and milliseconds for maxexposure so 5000000 is actually correct (5sec). I just decided to make abstraction of the difference and present the user with only one unit: ms.Regarding the delay, I will take a look, I have been running with autoexposure enabled lately so I may have missed a bug with the time between exposures. I will try your settings for next night.Based on your feedback it sounds like the delay is not applied. I will add some logging there. Thanks
This sounds to me like a hosting issue. 550 error is coming from the connection established with lftp. It is saying that it couldn't find the "/allsky" location on your host server. Did you change anything on your host? Folder permissions?It can also be a mis-configuration in scripts/ftp-settings.sh
ASI cameras are quite sensitive in the IR wavelength (see graph response here https://astronomy-imaging-camera.com/product/asi224mc). You could put an IR pass filter to block visible light and you would end up with an IR only camera.
Hi Melissa,Yes, I'm sure we can figure something out. A photo would help a lot in order to figure out the best design for it.
If screws and nails are not an option, here's what I would do:- Make a rectangle out of 2x2 or 2x4s (same size as the left side, about 98x40)- Make another one for the right side- Make one for the middle- Put some 6mil plastic on the outside of each frames. Use staples.- Attach the panels to the deck with zip ties (sides, bottom and top)- Attache the panels together with zip ties.- tape the seams.Zip ties should resist during the winter.
Plastic film would resist the wind but it doesn't have any thermal insulation. It traps the heat by day but all the heat will radiate through it during the night and the temperature outside and inside will be pretty much the same in the morning.To trap the heat, you need at least a double layer of plastic or some hollow poly-carbonate sheets. The door can be made of the same material with some overhang to avoid snow and ice accumulation.Tent material is wind resistant but has no thermal properties and it's not really transparent.
Hi Romain,Exposure and Gain have been added to the overlay. You can toggle this info on and off on the camera settings page.I have also added an "angle" option that let's you specify the altitude of the sun relative to the horizon. By default it is set to -6 degrees (civil twilight). -12 is nautical twilight and -18 is astronomical twilight.If you want sunset, use 0. If you want to capture the sun before it goes under the horizon, use a positive number.Thomas
This is now available.
I have only updated the README and default settings for now, but I'll try to include the exposure and gain overlay shortly.
Hi Romain,Congrats on your build, I'm happy that it installed properly on the first try.Good catch regarding the "gain" setting, I'll remove the second one.I am currently editing the README file to explain how all the settings work and to clarify the exposure and gain settings. Basically, by day, it's always using auto-exposure and gain 0; and at night, it uses whatever settings you selected. So the auto-exposure and auto-gain settings are only relevant for night time images.I will add an overlay for exposure and gain below the sensor temperature. That should help with debugging.Another thing to note is that auto exposure works by analyzing the amount of light in the current frame and reducing/increasing exposure for the next frame. It can take a few images until it gets the p...
Hi Romain,Congrats on your build, I'm happy that it installed properly on the first try.Good catch regarding the "gain" setting, I'll remove the second one.I am currently editing the README file to explain how all the settings work and to clarify the exposure and gain settings. Basically, by day, it's always using auto-exposure and gain 0; and at night, it uses whatever settings you selected. So the auto-exposure and auto-gain settings are only relevant for night time images.I will add an overlay for exposure and gain below the sensor temperature. That should help with debugging.Another thing to note is that auto exposure works by analyzing the amount of light in the current frame and reducing/increasing exposure for the next frame. It can take a few images until it gets the proper exposure.I will also try to add an option for sunwait so that you can start recording earlier. The sunset shouldn't be over-exposed as long as you're using auto-exposure (unless gain is set really high).I'll try to get these updates tonight or at least before the weekend and yes, I'll add you to the map.ThomasPS: Nice roll-off roof observatory.
Yep, I could do that as well.In the meantime, if you really need the auto exposure value, it should show up in log.txt in microseconds. It's not super user friendly but it's there.
For full moon nights, I would set the gain to a low value (0) and a relatively short exposure (under 5 sec). It also depends on your lenses's focal ratio. You can also turn auto-exposure on. In that case, it will properly expose images throughout the night.
It's been outside since January 2016 and I haven't noticed any issues with it yet. I believe that the acrylic dome and the lens filter most of the hight energy UV out.
You can use a RPI camera module but it won't be as sensitive as an astronomy camera. Also, the code is written to use ZWO cameras. If you want to use a n RPi camera module, you can use raspistill or avconv to make a timelapse:https://www.raspberrypi.org/documentation/usage/camera/raspicam/timelapse.md
You can use a fan to distribute the heat inside the enclosure for sure. Also, you can probably paint the tube white or with reflective paint.Another possibility would be to attach a piece of aluminium to the back of the camera and have a heatsink the extends outside the enclosure (with silicone around.)TEC cooling would work well but it would require quite a few amps and you'd have to provide a separate power cable (can't use the power from the 2.5A adapter unlike the fan which would only use a few mA).Regarding hot pixels, you can use the dark frame subtraction feature which works quite well at constant temperatures. I will add a temperature dependant dark frame feature in a future version of the software.
The IR letters on the lens mean Infra Red, you're right. But it doesn't mean Infra Red filter. I actually means Infra Red Corrected. When light is refracted through glass, different wave lengths are bent at a different angle which means red and blue are not focusing at the same spot. This is called chromatic aberration. Most good quality lenses take care of that problem. For CCTV lenses, since they can be used at night , they need that correction to be applied to the IR wave lengths range as well. Basically, this is to avoid having to re-adjust the focus when using the IR mode of the CCTV camera.
You may not need to flash your camera. Try it first and if you end up with segmented images, you can try upgrading to the latest firmware (segmented images issue should be fixed by now). Yes the link is in the developers tab: https://astronomy-imaging-camera.com/software/FWTo...I'm not sure what you mean by IR.
Hi Emmanuel, I've had reports of such behaviour before. Most of the time it was when people are using remote desktop to connect to the Pi. What happens is that when the new session opens, it kicks up another instance of the software.The easiest for you would be to upgrade to the latest version (v0.6). I have changed the way things work and it's more robust and you don't have to restart the Pi for each settings changes.
Hi, with the default settings, the camera only takes pictures at night (based on your latitude and longitude) but you can change that by setting DAYTIME=1 in config.shLet me know if that doesn't help and we can review your settings.
Hi Ronald,That's awesome. I think I mentioned that solution to someone earlier but I never implemented it. I will put it on my list of future improvement for sure !Thanks for the update
Thanks Corey, it's nice to have an alternative and I bet there's a lot of people who are already quite familiar with Python as well.V0.6 is also using systemd. I haven't merged it into master yet as it's still in the testing phase.
I haven’t played it in a while (it’s at my parents place) but I don’t recall any buzzing with this guitar. I’ve had other guitars that seem to buzz for no reason. You can add some shield to be on the safe side though. And you can add it later if you experience some imterferences.
I will take a look at the binning issue. It's definitely a bug and I'll see what needs to be done in the code.In the meantime, you can divide your width and height by the binning value as long as the camera supports that binning.For example, the ASI224 supports binning 2x2, so I can set bin:2 and width: 652 and height: 488.You'll have to check what the ASI178 supports.Nice Startrails by the way !
Hi Emmanuel,I am quite positive this is the issue. I've had previous users reporting the same kind of problem. If you have access to a 2.5A power supply, you could confirm this is the problem. The fact that the camera is not listed in your usb devices is a good indication.USB3 ports can only deliver 900mA and USB2 deliver 500mA so I don't think the Pi + camera are getting enough juice here.
Hi Tim, the ASI178 has a very large sensor so when it stitches images into a video, it takes a lot of RAM and throws an "out of memory" exception on the RPi. I think this memory usage can be adjusted but it would be better in your case to shrink the images before running them through avconv.https://www.imagemagick.org/script/mogrify.phpYou can call that command in timelapse.sh before calling avconvI haven't tested it but it should look like this:magick mogrify -resize 960x720 images/$1/*.$EXTENSIONPut that before the avconv line. Let me know if it fixes it or if you need more help on that.Thomas
Sometimes this happens when it's the first time you connect to a host. Let's say your host is myhosting.com, then you should try to open a terminal and ssh to it:ssh myhosting.comIt should ask you if you trust this host and want to permanently add it to your known hosts. Just say yes and it should fix your problem with the allsky upload.
It looks like the camera is not seen by the code. Can you run 'lsusb' to see if it is listed properly?It is the USB3 version of the ASI120 so you shouldn't need to do a firmware upgrade. I'm just trying to rule out a cable issue. Are you also using a good 2.5A power supply?
Hi Emmanuel,Have you restarted the RPi after the install?This error "Open Camera ERROR, Check that you have root permissions!" comes from the installation of the udev rules. ZWO's documentation says that in order to trigger the new udev rules, le camera has to be unplugged / re-plugged.Another way is to simply restart the RPi.That should fix your issue but let me know if you're still blocked.Thomas
Hi Corey,What happens if you cover the lens? Does it still deliver an all white JPG image?
16E is what you should enter. Regarding the install script, are you running it from /home/linaro/allsky?If not, make sure you run this:cd /home/linaro/allskysudo ./install.sh
I forgot you had the 178MC. I think it's probably related to the sensor size. Maybe it takes more time to save the image to the card. Let me know how the delay works for you.
Hi Emil, have you replaced it in install.sh? I would start with this file and re-run the install script: sudo ./install.shLet me know how things go.Thomas
Hey Dave,avahi-daemon is a service that let you connect to the Pi without knowing the IP. It uses the host name of the computer. For example in our case you can access the RPi using http://allsky.localIt gets installed when you install the GUI. In order to uninstall the GUI, you can just prevent lighttpd from starting at boot time:sudo systemctl disable lighttpdsudo systemctl disable avahi-daemonand in config.sh, set this variable like so:CAMERA_SETTINGS="settings.json"You'll have to reboot to make sure everything is disabled.Now regarding the stacked images, do you have room left on the SD card? Also, what's your exposure setting? I'll investigate a bit more on my side in the mean time.Thomas
Did you comment that line using the # sign?Also, when you start allsky.sh manually and Ctrl + C to stop, I would advise that you run these before starting the process again:killall entrkillall capturekillall lftpI have seen entr being duplicated in the past and that would cause issues as it would call saveImage multiple times.
Hey Dave, do you use any kind of remote desktop software to connect to the RPi? In the current version (v0.5), The allsky.sh script is called automatically on startup. It will also be called when you create a new session using Remote desktop, VNC, etc.That's how people usually end up with the same issue of images being stacked. Version 0.6 will remove this behaviour.It won't create multiple instances if you connect using SSH.Also, note that if you're using the GUI, you can power cycle using the reboot button on the "System" page.
Hey Ron,When a linux computer runs out of memory, it behaves in a weird way. For example, it will fail to list your files or directories. It will also fail to auto-complete when using the TAB key.What I would suggest is to manually run something like 'rm -rf /home/pi/allsy/images/20180517/'It should clear 1 day worth of data and give you enough space to behave properly. You may have to reboot as well.Thomas
The Earth Clock
I like how you actually painted the globe yourself and the LED ring is a clever idea for parallel rays. Looks really nice. I've had a similar project in mind for a few months. I think I'll use your project as a reference. Thanks for sharing.
Hi Dave,I looked at the SDK documentation and it appears that the offset is the same as the Brightness setting:ASI_BRIGHTNESS,//pixel value offset (a bias, not a scale factor)The default value is 50 but you can set it to a different value (between 0 and 100 I presume) using the GUI. It is a manual setting for now but may include it alongside auto exposure in v0.6
Hi Carol, has the tree been outside before? If it hasn't, you'll need to take some precautions because it won't be used to direct sunlight and it can burn the leaves. Also, when plants and trees grow inside, they lack the resistance to strong winds so you'll have to attach it to a stake. Summer is usually not a good time to transplant trees because they suffer from dehydration. The best is to plant them in the fall and dig a hole much larger than the pot. Add some conifer fertiliser to the soil, place the plant in the hole, fill the hole with more soil, attach to a stake, and add a lot of water.
Hey, that's a really smart way of making the dark frame ! How do you find the Rainbow lens? I've never used it. Also, the camera can give the sensor temperature so you could probably create a set of dark frames for different temperatures and apply the different dark frames automatically during the night if the ambiant temperature fluctuates :)
That's great news Kevin! It's good to know it wasn't too much work to get it to work on an x64 architecture.
Hi Kevin, I'm not an expert either in cross compilation but I think you can probably add that piece of code in the make file after the armv6 and armv7 blocks:ifeq ($(platform), x64)CFLAGS += -m64CFLAGS += -lrtendifThat what I started to do in a branch of the allsky code: https://github.com/thomasjacquin/allsky/blob/relat...You'll also need the x64 version of the ASI library in a /home/pi/allsky/lib/x64/ directory. You will find it here: https://astronomy-imaging-camera.com/software/ASI_...Let me know if this works for you.
Hi Louis, the images are saved in the following directory: /home/pi/allsky/images/If the image wasn't uploaded to your server, it's probably an FTP configuration issue. Have you connected to this server before? If not, try to ssh to it in order to add it to the known hosts:ssh <your-server-url-or-IP>Run ./allsky.sh again and wait for the ftp debug information to show up in the terminal. It will tell you if the transfer worked or failed.
Hi Albert,Thanks for sharing the video and a picture of your camera. You seem to have a good dark sky at your place.I have seen the issue with the indexed colours before and I believe it happened when I was starting and stopping `./allsky.sh` manually multiple times in a row. My theory is that some process was duplicated (most likely `entr`). I am re-writing that part of the code in version 0.6 to minimise issues like this one.Also if you're logging to the Pi using VNC or remote desktop, it may launch another instance of `./allsky.sh`. A future version of the code should also take care of that.Let me know the colour issue happens again and if you find a way to reproduce it.Thomas
Hey Dave,I'm still trying to figure out how the instructables comments threads are organised. I think my answer is still here but kind of hidden. I had to expand an arrow to see it.Anyway, yes you can resize the images using the Image Magick's 'mogrify' command. Instead of creating a whole new set of scaled down images, it overwrites them. Here's the doc:https://www.imagemagick.org/script/mogrify.phpYou could probably call the command at line 17 on timelapse.sh
That's awesome Vern! Please send a picture once you have completed the project. I love to see what builders come up with. I'll add you to the map.
Hey Dave, What's the size of an individual image? Is it the full 3096*2080?It seems like a memory allocation issue. There's 1GB Ram total on a RP3. I'm wondering whether avconv is trying to use more memory to build the timelapse than there's left in RAM. You can run the command 'top' in a terminal and run avconv in another. Look for the memory usage.One way to check would be to scale the images down and try running the ./timelapse.sh script manually again.
Hi Daniel,When you say overloaded, what do you mean exactly? I do not own an ASI120MC but I know it works fine with a P3 and ASI224MC. In theory, the ATIK camera could be used but it would require a custom capture.cpp using ATIK's SDK. Currently, the app is only using ZWO's SDK.
I will check my CPU load tonight. In the meantime, you can type "top" in a terminal to see which process is taking all the cpu.
The rotating platform is a really nice feature, especially if you don't have 180 degrees field of view. You did a great job on that project. Where is your location? I'll add you to the map!
Hi, the logic for day and night behaviour is in capture.cpp between lines 483 and 502. You can copy lines 484 to 492 into the DAY conditional statement. That way it will save both during the day and at night. However, it will use the same exposure.ZWO provides 2 functions in its SDK. The first one is the single exposure mode which is the one I'm using. It doesn't have an auto-exposure feature. The second mode is the video mode which has auto-exposure. I haven't tried it yet but I am planning to. It will require a few changes to the .cpp file.
Hi Mike,I believe it is the job of the developer to set the default values when he writes the software. I am setting default values in capture.cpp. If you don't pass any parameters to the ZWO functions, they throw errors. However, I couldn't find a range of supported values for most settings.The only info on their website is the exposure: 32µs-1000s in the case of the asi224.
You can try to run ./timelapse.sh manually and look at the output in the terminal. There might be some useful messages. The latest change on that file was the addition of "-pix_fmt yuv420p" in order to make it compatible with some adobe product. You can try without it.
I am wondering if the wifi instability is somewhat related the usb reset messages you're getting. I don't really have suggestions about how to debug the issue but in my case, wifi is reliable and I don't see anything abnormal in dmesg. Is the wifi also dropping without the camera plugged in and without allsky.sh running?
I checked on my camera and I couldn't see any messages like that in dmesg. Does it seem to impact the performance?
I love the giant pole ! You'll get a clear view of the horizon. Congrats for the build. It looks really good. I'll add you to the map.
Oh wow! That's a really nice build. I really like to see when builders add features to the original project. Let me know how well it deals with dew. There are a few users in high humidity areas who were wondering how to fight humidity. Would you mind sharing your location? I'll add you to the map of allsky builders.
Hi Mike,Thanks for the feedback. Yes, USB2 cameras need a firmware upgrade in order to work properly. I believe I added a note in the Readme file on GitHub.For the dome, it depends what diameter you're using. In my case, a 4" dome doesn't add too much distortion to the horizon because the lens is close to the center of curvature. Moving the lens away from the dome will lessen the distortion. I also find that the stock lens that comes with the camera isn't really sharp on the edges.I haven't had any problem with heat and sunlight on the sensor. The camera has been running fine for 2+ years. If you live in a hot place, you could paint the tube in white to minimize heat accumulation.Are you using vnc or remote desktop to connect to the RPi? If so, you may have 2 instances of "cap...
Hi Mike,Thanks for the feedback. Yes, USB2 cameras need a firmware upgrade in order to work properly. I believe I added a note in the Readme file on GitHub.For the dome, it depends what diameter you're using. In my case, a 4" dome doesn't add too much distortion to the horizon because the lens is close to the center of curvature. Moving the lens away from the dome will lessen the distortion. I also find that the stock lens that comes with the camera isn't really sharp on the edges.I haven't had any problem with heat and sunlight on the sensor. The camera has been running fine for 2+ years. If you live in a hot place, you could paint the tube in white to minimize heat accumulation.Are you using vnc or remote desktop to connect to the RPi? If so, you may have 2 instances of "capture" running. The camera auto starts at boot but you can disable the autostart if you need to.The pi doesn't go to sleep. If it's not showing on your router, it may be slightly out of range. A dropping connection can come from various reasons. Try moving the camera closer and see if it still works in the morning.
Excellent, glad to hear that.For the keogram, I have a theory. If you use a long exposure, the first image can be all white. In order to optimize disk space, image magick stores this image in a greyscale format (only if using dark frame subtraction I believe).Then, when you reach image 5 to 10 or 15, it's no longer completely white so image magick returns an RGB image.The problem is that the keogram script is setting the output target to the same colorspace as image number 1. So when it reaches image 5, 10 or 15, it's trying to put RBG into a single channel image.... which fails.My current fix is to add "-type TrueColor" to line 23:convert "$FULL_FILENAME" "$DARK_FRAME" -compose minus_src -composite -type TrueColor "$FILENAME-processed.$EXTENSION"...
Excellent, glad to hear that.For the keogram, I have a theory. If you use a long exposure, the first image can be all white. In order to optimize disk space, image magick stores this image in a greyscale format (only if using dark frame subtraction I believe).Then, when you reach image 5 to 10 or 15, it's no longer completely white so image magick returns an RGB image.The problem is that the keogram script is setting the output target to the same colorspace as image number 1. So when it reaches image 5, 10 or 15, it's trying to put RBG into a single channel image.... which fails.My current fix is to add "-type TrueColor" to line 23:convert "$FULL_FILENAME" "$DARK_FRAME" -compose minus_src -composite -type TrueColor "$FILENAME-processed.$EXTENSION"In the meantime, if you want to re-generate the keograms, you can delete the first few images of your sequence and run the command manually.
I will take a look at this project, It uses the -auto-gamma function of Image Magick to balance the brightness.The ZWO sdk allows for auto-exposure but needs to capture images in video mode instead of snapshot. I haven't tried it but it should work for this project. However, when using auto-exposure, you either end up with a non linear timeline in your timelapse or you have to take this in account and add a delay between images when using a short exposure.
Looks like a solid waterproof case... with heat as well! kind of like the "Deluxe" allsky enclosure. Have you tried setting the startrails treshold to something higher than 0.1? Maybe 0.3 would work in your case. Keep me updated. I'm curious what settings work for users.
Hey Ron, That's just legacy code from the first version of the app. You can totally call saveImage.sh from capture.cpp the same way I'm calling endOfNight.shI will probably make that change in the next release. The only advantage of "entr" was that it was independent from any code and if you decided to generate the image from another binary (python, etc) then it would still work the same way. But I think the way the code has evolved a lot from the original release and we don't need 'entr' anymore.
Here's the difference you can expect with and without the sigmoid contrast.Without: http://www.thomasjacquin.com/allsky/videos/allsky-...With Sigmoid function: http://www.thomasjacquin.com/allsky/videos/allsky-...If you open 2 tabs side by side, you'll be able to play them both and tell the difference.For that specific night, I didn't save the stretched images, I stretched them afterwards and made a new timelapse.
After thinking about it over night, there's an simpler fix, just edit scripts/postData.sh on the RPi and change -0800 for your timezone (-0700 I believe). You'll have to change your GPS coordinates too in that file.I should also update that script someday to use lat/long from the settings.json file
I remember having that issue with the clock too. I thought it was related to daylight saving time. Check line 143 on controller.js. There's a hack to offset your timezone by 1 hr. Just uncomment it and adapt it to your timezone. It will probably work but I need to sort that issue for good someday.
I know what you mean. I also have too many hobbies. That's a pretty cool setup that you have here. Let me know how the sigmoid function works for you and I'll consider adding it as an option in saveImage.sh.That's a beautiful image of M31. How many hours integration on this one?I added you to the map but I'm not sure I put it at the right place. I think your GPS coordinates pointed to a town called "Oriental".Have you tried spraying the dome with some hydrophobic product such as "Neverwet"? Not sure if it works with dew though.
That's quite a handy script you found here. I have been experimenting a bit on my side and for moonless nights, the image magick sigmoid-contrast seems to work quite well.convert $file -sigmoidal-contrast 10x10% $file"_stretched.jpg"The first number is the contrast and the position of the S curve on the histogram.For the dark subtraction, I think a set of darks taken at different temperatures should work fine since the hot pixels have a fixed pattern.