ThomasK19

It's the capacity of the 3 areas changing by approaching the hand. The nearer the hand, the larger the capacity. This will only give a very rough measure as the capacity of the human/plate capacitor varies quite a lot (not only by the mass of the human, but also by temperature, humidity, etc.).

Actually when I read the title I was intrigued by the thought of current running through bones xDAnyhow, you can also use a piezo (wrapped into shrink tube to protect the connection) and press that on your skin (either the yaw or just bite it with your teeth). That will also produce a nice sound.

Actually when I read the title I was intrigued by the thought of current running through bones xD

Still looking. At least I found my old logarithm tables book from school xD

In older phone centrals they used tons of differently colored wires. They are also used in earth cables which bundle many dozens of different cable. Those nowadays get replaced by glass fibre cables and are recycled. Eventually you can get a (say) 2 meter cut-off from such a cable. That will give you a set of differently colored cables you could use to organize them.

You could glue a single sheet on normal paper. Just use a thin strip of glue at the low end. This way the thin rice paper will be dragged along with the stiff normal paper. After printing you just need to cut off the lower stripe.

Hehe. One always has to rub eyes after chopping peppers (cry!). And even hours later when you pee (howl!) you feel the heat (except you're a Scotsman who just needs to lift his kilt). I have to try that as soon as I can get fresh peppers again. How long can this be kept (in the fridge)?

I need to find my old slide ruler once again to explain it to my son. He just knows how to do maths by pocket calculators. If I only knew where I put it...

My tooth brush definitely uses that to charge the battery. The coil is smaller in diameter, but there's a ferrite in the middle which is also used to fix the brush on the charger.

Just try it with your phone and enjoy.

The easiest/simplest is to add a parity bit (extra line) that reflects the even/odd number of transferred bits. With 2 extra bits you can calculate a CRC

Resin can be sanded and polished. You need to wear a mask since the dust is anything but healthy. You can polish it finally with chalk like you use it for steel.

If you mix both parts thoroughly at the same rates you will hardly see the margin. It needs a bit of practice, though. But placing things right at the bottom will not seal them. Means: they can oxidate and/or you can feel them when rubbing over it.

Over a couple of days a woodpecker did widen the entry of a birds house in my garden - to eat the little birds inside. I thought he'd occupy the home for his family, but obviously once the plate was eaten up he left the restaurant.

Coincidently "Dietrich" is not only a German first (and family) name, but also the word for picklock.

You definitely want to do the casting in two steps. First cast a 1/3 (or less if you have thick objects) layer for the basement. When its has set to some degree you place the objects and cast the 2nd go to cover the objects.

The only problem with the expanded marshmallows: you won't get them out of the bottle xD

Really nice! I was curious about the magnet connection and having them flipping around is really cool! You should try that on a xylophone!

Very interesting. Are these objects "just" art or could that be the basis for some purpose. I guess that using glass in this way is absolutely new.

or maybe OMMMM

Gong - ding dong xD

Why take a hammer if you can make something that event does not resemble a hammer xD I often use heave metal pieces lying around as hammer (since the real hammer needs two more steps to get it from the shelf).

Just to place a couple of seeds my grandma would have done in less than 30 seconds? You must have a lot of spare time xD

I think for a fun/nonsense project it's nice :-) Though I guess the practical use is "nada" (which is also my level of Spanish).

Some are still/again in use esp. in rural areas in Russia and Scandinavia for cars. But here in Germany you can actually buy those for heating your house. The following link is in German and I'm not affiliated with them, but bottom right you find a schematic of what the OP has build on its own. These gasifiers come at a price of ca. 5k € (or $). http://www.energieheld.de/heizung/holzheizung/holzvergaser

I just thought those mushrooms got their name from the black color they take when degrading, but never that you really can make ink from them! One never stops learning. Anyhow, I prefer to eat them before they get black xD

I guess that "Barn" is the Swedish/Danish word for "child". So it's a raise for children, I'd guess further.

Thumbs up :-) I love machines that are constructed with the intention to do nothing (unlike machines that are intended to do something and actually do nothing).

Hehe. Good point. Actually I can't remember knowing anyone personally falling in that category. But they exist and they seem to get more and more (from what I perceive from various media). And definitely: our world is NOT better because they are in it.

To be fair: it's a bit better than just transliteration in the meantime. But of course far from a human translation still. Though I wouldn't be surprised to see a better machine translation in the near future than what some humans work out (deep learning has enabled things we could not believe a few years ago).

I just verified with "The flesh is willing, but the spirit is weak" (a mix from a proverb). When typing it transliterates (as you can see). But when the sentence is finished, it finds the right translation (I got the above from the German proverb).

I wonder whether those Nazis (or whatever evil person) will be cured if they grab one of those (esp. "our world is better because you're in it"). Hmmmm

When I was young, we used to play this.

Btw. Just connect the data line and/or the 5V to the wall outlet. It has pretty much the same effect. Alternatively just toast the device with any burnable liquid.

Why should one build such a device except for damaging (other!) people's hardware??? This is neither funny nor useful.

Nice job. I guess sanding right near your shiny MacBook (step 2) is not the best one can do xD

Excellent and very detailed i'ble. But - sigh - printing sugar? Unless you are a pastry cook, this machine looks like not being useful for anything else.

Willst du eine Konditorei aufmachen?

Would it be possible to leave a hole for the (metal) axis, so you can fit it at the highest point and then continue printing?

lol - that looks puzzling :-) Now, winter ante portas means more time for indoor hobbies.I have seen metal threads you can insert during printing. So they inspired me to think about using a metal axis. The time will come xD

Thanks for the excellent explanation. I guess I should try to find more time to finish my printer so I can experiment with this :-)

Since I had not heard of the bowden in this context I just had a normal extruder in mind, which needs only a little feed. But of course here you need much more feed :-)

Another thing I stumbled over. The crank, is that really needed? Usually you would just need a few turns to get the filament in place. The gear seems to have enough grip for some manual turns.

I always knew that the real use for 3d printers is to print parts for 3d printers ;-)Nice work and voted. Just one observation: I'd file a little groove for the locking screw on the axis where you fasten hobbed gear.

Ah, and a final question: could you add a photo of the feeder mounted on your printer? This is the first time I hear of a bowden feed. It seems to make sense, but I would like to see how it is used (I use bowden in model planes and on bikes, but for a 3d printer the mounting of the feeder seems to be a bit more difficult).

I had started with an own build of a printer from scratch. So I definitely have to replace some of the wooden parts by prints. Unfortunately I have more delays than improvements at the moment. Movement is working but heating is something I have to tackle next.

Hehe. Nice to make a lock without telling how to make the according key. That's perfect security!

If you drill a hole in it it gets ruined the same way...

I'm using Marlin, so can't tell about repetier. But search your sketches for 6675 and you will eventually find the according #defines.

Put the max6675.cpp and .h in the same folder as where your .ino is located. Open the .ino once again. You should now see two more tabs in the Arduino IDE for the both max6676 files.

Just use the CS pin to select the individual couple. Only the one that has CS set high will response on the data line.

Hehe. Let's me display all Minecraft bricks in one place :-)

https://www.instructables.com/id/SketchUp-Inkscape-and-Ponoko-Laser-Cutting/step3/Using-the-SVG-Export-Plugin/

What I do instead of using Loctite is this: screw the nut so the thread extends just a bit (1/2 mm). Put that in a vise where it has a vertical spare in the center (only clamp loosely). Then give the thread a hard punch from the top (eventually you need to place the tip of a 2nd hammer). This will widen/deform the thread to it holds the nut almost like welded. Also, if you use the cut end for deforming you have the good side already where you need it.

What I do instead of using Loctite is this: screw the nut so the thread extends just a bit (1/2 mm). Put that in a vise where it has a vertical spare in the center (only clamp loosely). Then give the thread a hard punch from the top (eventually you need to place the tip of a 2nd hammer). This will widen/deform the thread to it holds the nut almost like welded.

With a laser cutter?

lol

What I'd do in such a fatal case is to use the diamond blade of my Dremel and then use pliers or a wedge to split a nut.

In any case: there's a so-called nut splitter I never used that, but have seen it in some catalog. - Google led me to this ible: https://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-remove-a-stuborn-nutbolt/?ALLSTEPS

Yep. That blows you right out of your socks xD