Tstef

It's rated accuracy is ±10% so not terribly accurate. What exactly would you be using it for?

That is correct. Uploading sketches to the ESP should be a whole, separate tutorial.

Done :)

Hmm, sounds to me like the AT firmware wasn't flashed on the chip. You can get it from the espressif website. Or just do a quick google search for "flash AT firmware". From what I remember, it was pretty easy to do.

The button terminals work across the gap. The two on the upper side and the two on the lower side of the breadboard are always connected together. When you press the button, that connects the two sides. So whether the connection is made diagonally or not, it should work.

It's called Fritzing and it's free and open-source. Check it out.

It should, yss.

Thank you, happy making!

Amazing project. You guys should make a GitHub page for it. That way the links/code will remain available (they're dead right now).

Try connecting a 100nF capacitor between the VCC and GND pads of the ESP module (as close to the pads as possible). Also, try changing the baud rate to 57600 or 76800 and look for error codes when the ESP resets. These are debug baud rates.

Unfortunately, I don't have any experience with the CH340G chip. I was using an FT232RL adapter (like in the image). The connections were as follows: ESP...FT232RL---------------------RX...TXTX...RXPull both GND to a common ground (battery/source negative).GPIO0 (zero) on the ESP needs to be pulled to GND (if you see flashing on the ESP but you get the connection error it might be because GPIO0 is not pulled to GND).Oh, and the FT232RL supports both 3.3 and 5V logic -- so if you still have issues with the CH340G, maybe it's because you're trying to work with 3.3V logic on 5V. Sometimes there's a jumper or a switch where you can change this.

Hmmm, I'm not sure. Does the blue LED on the ESP flash when you connect it?

Normally I would put actual pictures but in this case I don't think they would add any value to the tutorial -- the module is fairly tiny and all those wires would get very confusing. Not to mention that I don't have a camera that would take a good picture, especially not better than the diagram.

Yes, same connections.

Man, what is up with all these tutorials that connect DHT sensors to analog pins? They are digital sensors -- you even say so in the intro ("no analog pins required"). How are they even working?

Flashing sketches is a whole other can of worms. I've uploaded sketches straight to the ESP via an FT232RL module (https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Free-Shipping-FT23... I know it's possible to do it through an Arduino Uno. Have a look here: https://arduino.stackexchange.com/questions/26709/...It looks like you need to use the SoftwareSerial library. Then what you do before uploading the sketch is this chicken dance: (1) hold down the FLASH button (don't let go :P), (2) while holding FLASH, press and release the RESET button, (3) release the FLASH button, (4) upload sketch.

I think I misunderstood your first question. Did you mean Arduino clones with CH340G instead of an FTDI chip? If yes, then yes, you should have no issues replacing it -- just be sure to have the appropriate drivers installed.

Do the mumbo-jumbo characters stop printing at some point? I would start by making sure that the baud rate is 115200. If that doesn't work, try 9600 as well. Also try, 57600 or 76800, these are the debugging baud rates -- you should be able to get some legible info from this. This is where it'll tell you If your module is running intro some kind of error.Let me know what happens.

Do the mumbo-jumbo characters stop printing at some point?I would start by making sure that the baud rate is 115200. If that doesn't work, try 9600 as well. Also try, 57600 or 76800, these are the debugging baud rates -- you should be able to get some legible info from this. This is where it'll tell you if your module is running intro some kind of error.Let me know what happens.

Hey, sorry for the late reply. For some reason I just saw your message.Yes, you should be able to use a USB to TTL converter but BE CAREFUL WITH THE VOLTAGES. You'll need a 3.3V supply or regulator to power the ESP, don't power it from the VCC pin of the converter! Otherwise, you follow the same connections. I have successfully use one of these modules: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/FT232RL-3-3V-5-5V-... For flashing a sketch, you keep the flash button pressed while you reset the board. Then you can release the flash button and click upload sketch. That should work. Make sure the flash button connects GPIO0 to GND when pressed.

Why is the PIR sensor attached to an analog pin? It is, after all, a digital sensor, i.e. either on (motion) or off (no motion).

It looks like you're missing the LiquidCrystal-I2C library from your files. Get it from here: https://github.com/fdebrabander/Arduino-LiquidCrys..

Yes, it essentially makes a one-way connection between the solar panel and the battery. Current can flow from the solar panel to the battery but cannot flow from the battery to the solar panel.

Yes, it essentially makes a one-way connection between the solar panel and the battery. Current can flow from the solar panel to the battery but cannot flow from the battery to the solar panel.

You're welcome. Hope it helps.

Yes, you need a better power supply in my experience. Give this article a read if you can't get it to work: http://internetofhomethings.com/homethings/?p=396

Mine didn't need flashing initially. It came with the AT firmware on it.

My values are out of whack when I use the equation 1/1024 * 100. At 19 deg c, I get values around 12.00 for the temperature and around 125 for the analogRead on the tempPin.The sensor works properly without the ESP on an Arduino.Any ideas what might be causing this?

Just some details.The output voltage from the sensor seems to be right (~190mV at 19 deg C). However, when I measure the voltage from ADC pin to GND pin on the ESP-12F, it's around 130mV (also indicated by the analogRead function)-- which seems a bit far from the 1V-1024 conversion.

For some reason, 1.5V instead of 1V seems to be an appropriate conversion in my case but I have no idea why -- I know that ADC pin goes from 0 to 1V (or should at least).

Just some details. The output voltage from the sensor seems to be right (~190mV at 19 deg C). However, when I measure the voltage from ADC pin to GND pin on the ESP-12F, it's around 130mV (as indicated by the analogRead function)-- which seems a bit far from the 1V-1024 conversion.