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WilkoL

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  • Cranberry White Chocolate Cookies

    Succes! This time my cookies didn't melt into one giant-cookie in the oven. I had to use much more flour and put the cookies almost twice as long in the oven. But just look at those beauties! I made 32 cookies and I wonder if they will survive this weekend :-)

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  • Sinewave and Cosinewave Signal Generator

    I took a look at the 4423 and It is very interesting.But, you know there always is this but. The max frequency of it is 5 kHz, my generator goes up to 1 MHz. You set the frequency by setting (or selecting) resistors, what if you want to produce 440.01 Hz? You will need very precise resistors and a frequency counter. Of course my generator also needs a display, but with a microcontroller that's easy.A 741. Really? I used the last 741 many decades ago.For the 4423 is will be good enough as it doesn't go higher than 5 kHz, but come on, there are so many better opamps.Then there are good reasons for taking the "hard" way, the first is that I do not have a 4423 handy but I do have microcontrollers in stock, the second reason might be versatility, if I need another waveform, I can sim…

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    I took a look at the 4423 and It is very interesting.But, you know there always is this but. The max frequency of it is 5 kHz, my generator goes up to 1 MHz. You set the frequency by setting (or selecting) resistors, what if you want to produce 440.01 Hz? You will need very precise resistors and a frequency counter. Of course my generator also needs a display, but with a microcontroller that's easy.A 741. Really? I used the last 741 many decades ago.For the 4423 is will be good enough as it doesn't go higher than 5 kHz, but come on, there are so many better opamps.Then there are good reasons for taking the "hard" way, the first is that I do not have a 4423 handy but I do have microcontrollers in stock, the second reason might be versatility, if I need another waveform, I can simply change the code, if I decide to make the phase shift variable, change some more code. (I ve actually done that)But the most important reason is that I like making things myself. Instead of building this device or using a 4423 you could also just go the the store and buy an arbitrary waveform generator, but what fun is that?Do write an Instructable, with whatever devices you have, I'm always looking forward to such articles.Cheers, Wilko

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  • WilkoL made the instructable Black Forest Cherry Cookies
    Black Forest Cherry Cookies

    But I failed :-) The dough sagged into one huge cookie and it is still rather soft. What did I do wrong? I converted all cups and spoon into grams, but during the mixing I already thought that the dough was rather liquid so I added quite a lot of extra flour.I used half of the dough and made 16 balls, added the cherry preserve (called jam in Dutch) and put it in the oven at 180 degrees Celsius. One a second tray I did that same with the other half of the dough.After 10 minutes it had all melted into one super-cookie and it was very liquid, so I left it in the oven for another 10 minutes before I took it out.After cooling (2 hours) I cut the super-cookie into 16 pieces. And even now they are quite soft. Are they supposed to be soft? Cookies in the Netherlands usually are crunchy...Luckily …

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    But I failed :-) The dough sagged into one huge cookie and it is still rather soft. What did I do wrong? I converted all cups and spoon into grams, but during the mixing I already thought that the dough was rather liquid so I added quite a lot of extra flour.I used half of the dough and made 16 balls, added the cherry preserve (called jam in Dutch) and put it in the oven at 180 degrees Celsius. One a second tray I did that same with the other half of the dough.After 10 minutes it had all melted into one super-cookie and it was very liquid, so I left it in the oven for another 10 minutes before I took it out.After cooling (2 hours) I cut the super-cookie into 16 pieces. And even now they are quite soft. Are they supposed to be soft? Cookies in the Netherlands usually are crunchy...Luckily they are very tasty. :-) They probably won't last more than a few days (children.... you know).

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  • USBASP Installation in Windows 10

    Met pensioen en toen was er de USBASP om mee te spelen. :-)

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  • "Long Earth" Stepper Night Light

    Thank you so very very much! I didn't know about The Long Earth books by Terry Pratchett and Stephen Baxter. And to think I have read the entire Discworld series several times... I didn't know... shaking my head.... I did not know!Thank you, thank you!

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  • WilkoL commented on Frugha's instructable Common IC Breadboard Clock
    Common IC Breadboard Clock

    Beautiful construction, my breadboards never look that pretty. And you even gave me a nice idea that I have never thought of: put a 2 Hz signal on one side of the buttons. Why didn't I think of that!

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  • WilkoL commented on Josehf Murchison's instructable Tube Converter
    Tube Converter

    Nice work! And good to see such a beautiful scope being brought back to life. Can you tell more about how you made the part with the nine pins? It almost looks like it was made of wood, but in the text you say it was made with a nine-pin-socket and nine pins. How did you do that?

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  • Computing With (really) Very Big Numbers

    For even bigger numbers take a look at the video's of Numberphile on youtube:Graham's Number: TREE(3):Do not try to compute these numbers either on your computer or in your head, they have this warning:Graham's Number: A number so epic it will collapse your brain into a black hole! Yet Tony Padilla and Matt Parker take the risk of discussing its magnitude. Watch with caution.

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  • Peanut Butter Chocolate Chips Cookies

    They are still cooling down, so I haven't tasted them yet, but I'm absolutely sure they will be great. The dough was :-) As usual I had to translate the cups and spoons into metric grams and doing that I saw that it would be a lot. It was more than I 'm used to and I had to fill two baking sheets. That also meant that I had to stack the baking sheets above one and other. In the picture they look like meatballs :-) The top baking sheet therefore got more heat and I had to open the oven halfway to swap them. I think that the sheet that was on top first is the reason that those cookies spread out more than the others. Oh and because I could not find chocolate chips, used two bars of chocolate one called pure-chocolate, the other milk-chocolate that I chopped into pieces.

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  • WilkoL commented on quantumwhisperer's instructable Contact Mic
    Contact Mic

    Yes it is clear now, and it makes sense too, the inductor's mass "resists" movement so the vibrations of the surface change the coil even more.(about those thousand words... I do prefer a reference manual of a micro controller above a picture of it :-) )

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  • WilkoL commented on quantumwhisperer's instructable Contact Mic
    Contact Mic

    How do you connect the microphone to a music instrument? Do you glue the inductor to it and let the spring hang freely in the air or let the spring touch it (but then to what is the inductor fixed to?)Or, for my understanding, can you show a picture of the device in action? From the video it is not very clear (to me) what is connected to what.

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  • WilkoL commented on quantumwhisperer's instructable Contact Mic
    Contact Mic

    Interesting! Recording the (probably very small) changes in the magnetic field with a coil that produced it in the first place. What do you use it for? What frequencies is it (most) sensitive to?

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  • WilkoL commented on WilkoL's instructable Bat Detector
    Bat Detector

    As I had no idea of what a Zoom H1N was, I checked it out. It looks nice. About your question, the thing clearly is meant to record human audible audio so I guess it will not record much when you feed it with bat-sounds at 40 kHz or higher. That said, maybe it will do something as it can record mp3 with sample rates of 44.1, 48, or 96 kHz. You may end up with a heterodyne bat detector. Just give it a go and seen what happens.

    I see, so you want to skip the microphone that probably doesn't work much above 20 kHz. But my guess is that there will still be a low pass filter to remove everything above 20 kHz in electronics. If they do not do that there will be problems with aliasing, esspecially with the 44 kHz sample rate. Yes, the maximum frequency you can faithfully record is always half the sample rate, because of Nyquist–Shannon. It may work if there isn't too much low pass filtering in electronics and it could be that the Nyquist effect even makes bat sounds audible. Try it.

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  • WilkoL commented on Fusebot's instructable Matrix-Tree
    Matrix-Tree

    Well done. And I like the mix of "arduino-language" and direct register code :-)

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  • WilkoL commented on WilkoL's instructable Bat Detector
    Bat Detector

    When I read about the Dell powersupply I thought you meant that you used it AS a power supply. The pictures explained it, hahaha! The video is great, at the end you can hear a bat zooming in on an insect. A switch to choose between division ratios is probably a good idea, but when you can still hear up to 10 kHz it may not be neccesary. I can't hear anything higher than 4 kHz so I need higher division rates. Anyway, thank you for showing your detector and have fun listening.Wilko

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  • WilkoL commented on WilkoL's instructable Dual Trace Oscilloscope
    Dual Trace Oscilloscope

    Any low voltage and somewhat fast dual opamp will do. So a MCP6022, LMV722, OPA2316 or a LM6132 and many others are fine. Search for a Dual opamp, 5 to 10 MHz gain-bandwidth, 1.7V to 10V and not too expensive :-) A high slewrate is also nice to have.

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      • How to Design and Build a MPPT Solar Charger Using Arduino
  • WilkoL commented on WilkoL's instructable Bat Detector
    Bat Detector

    A layout for a circuit is a schematic... isn't it? Are you making a wooden frame for all the components? Isn't that much harder than making a pcb?

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  • USBASP Installation in Windows 10

    Well, that's odd! I had to use "WinUSB (v6.1.7600.16385)" to get the USBASP working with the Arduino software (on Windows 10 x64). With other options Arduino claimed that there was no USBASP connected.In Device_Manager it now shows up under the Universal Serial Bus devices.

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  • WilkoL commented on WilkoL's instructable Bat Detector
    Bat Detector

    That should work, the CD4040 and LM386 both can work with up to 15V resp. 12V so 9V shouldn't be a problem. You might want to keep an eye on the current drawn from the battery, if that is very high it will drain the battery in no-time.

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  • 88888: the Electronic Smile Counter

    I'll have a look at that too, thanks. Only in my case it isn't eeprom but flash memory as I'm using STM32 microcontrollers and sadly, most do not have eeprom on board.

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  • 88888: the Electronic Smile Counter

    Nice implementation of wear leveling. I'm going to do that in my frequency counter that has its timebase, made with a 10MHz OCXO locked to the 1 pulse per second of a GPS receiver. The OCXO gets a voltage from a DAC so it is tuned to 10MHz exactly. The value of the DAC at this moment is saved (every few hours) to flash but without any wear leveling. Your idea will make the flash last much longer.

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  • WilkoL commented on WilkoL's instructable Bat Detector
    Bat Detector

    Hi Lanius,The way I transfer a circuit from the breadboard to a perfboard is quite simple. I keep following the schematic when I place the components on the board. Only when I see that it gets too big or if there is a better way of placing the parts I change the layout.There are some rules to follow, for instance the crystal for a microcontroller needs to be very close to the microcontroller. When you have analog signals, try not to have digital lines coming close. If there are parts that get hot, place them at the edge of the board so that you can attach a heatsink and do not place electrolytic capacitors close to parts that get hot.When I am happy with the layout I solder the parts and start with the connections. With (low level) analog signals, I start with those analog connections, t…

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    Hi Lanius,The way I transfer a circuit from the breadboard to a perfboard is quite simple. I keep following the schematic when I place the components on the board. Only when I see that it gets too big or if there is a better way of placing the parts I change the layout.There are some rules to follow, for instance the crystal for a microcontroller needs to be very close to the microcontroller. When you have analog signals, try not to have digital lines coming close. If there are parts that get hot, place them at the edge of the board so that you can attach a heatsink and do not place electrolytic capacitors close to parts that get hot.When I am happy with the layout I solder the parts and start with the connections. With (low level) analog signals, I start with those analog connections, trying to keep them as short as possible. Next are the ground connections. With a (mostly) digital design I start with ground and other power lines, followed with digital signals. If possible I place all ICs in sockets and leave the ICs out until I have checked the power connections. Then I apply power to the board and measure the voltages at the pins for the ICs. Only when I see that those are okay, I will power off, place the ICs and reapply power. Usually I start with a lab-power-supply set to the correct voltage and the current-limit set to (what I think) is the expected supply current.Happy experimentingPictures of the bat-detector, top and bottom

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  • WilkoL commented on WilkoL's instructable CharliePlexing on a ATTINY10
    CharliePlexing on a ATTINY10

    Hello Hhwill,The IDE I use for all Atmel/Microchip microcontrollers is Atmel Studio 7. You can download it for free from Microchip. The programmer is an official AVR-ISP-MKII, I don't think you can still buy the official one and I don't know how well the clones from China will work. It should also work with an USBASP, see there for connections: http://www.technoblogy.com/show?1YQY I have made the USBASP work in Atmel Studio 7 once, but at the moment I don't remember how I did that. It was something with the "external-tools" and I later removed that because it interfered with the workings of the AVR_IPS-MKII. A google-search for "atmel studio usbasp" will probably do the trick.Remember that to program the ATTINY10 it needs to be powered with 5V ! You can use it with low…

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    Hello Hhwill,The IDE I use for all Atmel/Microchip microcontrollers is Atmel Studio 7. You can download it for free from Microchip. The programmer is an official AVR-ISP-MKII, I don't think you can still buy the official one and I don't know how well the clones from China will work. It should also work with an USBASP, see there for connections: http://www.technoblogy.com/show?1YQY I have made the USBASP work in Atmel Studio 7 once, but at the moment I don't remember how I did that. It was something with the "external-tools" and I later removed that because it interfered with the workings of the AVR_IPS-MKII. A google-search for "atmel studio usbasp" will probably do the trick.Remember that to program the ATTINY10 it needs to be powered with 5V ! You can use it with lower voltages, but programming must be with 5V.Succes,Wilko

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  • Make Professional Looking Front Panels for Your Next DIY Project

    I sure did make it, a very small one. I'll present it in an Ibstructable that will be posted shortly.

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  • WilkoL commented on WilkoL's instructable Aura Remover
    Aura Remover

    Well... it's a device that produces UV pulses and some WIFI signal. I made it because there are those people who believe that WIFI radiation is bad for your (spiritual) health, G5 phones are bad, etc. My ex is one of those, she even believes in angels, homeopathy and preventing cancer by eating vegables. (probably now she is a Qanon-no-no follower). To tease her I made a device that every once in a while produces just those things and made up a story about scientists and professors. Just as she used to do when talking about homeopath, dangers about vaccins and more...

    If you believe in the kind of nonsense that is an aura or Bill Gates injecting you via a vaccin and then controlling you through G5, it is very serious. But for normal people ( probably you too :-) ) it is all a joke.

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  • WilkoL commented on JeremySCook's instructable Bike Wheel Light PCB
    Bike Wheel Light PCB

    Nice idea, although I'm afraid that in the environment here it will not last very long (rain, snow, salt, mud). How about powering such a device with a coil on the PCB and a magnet attached to the frame?

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  • WilkoL commented on nqtronix's instructable Light Probe MK I
    Light Probe MK I

    In the meantime I found that this sensor is most sensitive to blue light and responds less to green and red. I'll see if I can find another one. I have had some fun pointing it to a led display (MAX7219 with 4 digits) where it is very visible that the digits are in a matrix. I even had some surprises, when I shone light from a bicycle led-lamp to it, it proved to be pulsed, even on the brightest level. My LED lighting is less constant than I thought it was, the 100Hz ripple is very visible. I have thought about adding some functionality, such as an AC setting, audio output and variable amplification. And maybe next time I'll feed the opamp +3V and -3V (instead of 0V and +6V), that way I can even increase the bias for the photo diode to -6V or use one battery less...

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  • WilkoL made the instructable Light Probe MK I
    Light Probe MK I

    Well.... I made this with your device as inspriration. First of all I made it with through hole components, except for the dual opamp and photo diode. As I didn't have such a nice photo diode, I used a "ambient light sensor" with a huge capacity (134pF at 0V). But to my surprise I can detect light pulses of 1us, made with a led fed with 5mA pulses. This photo diode can handle no more than 16V reverse voltage, which was no problem for me as I intended to feed the probe with CR2032 button cells :-)See here the results:

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  • Variable Capacitor for a Crystal Set

    Oh, I have to ask my son about galena, he collected minerals for some time, he might have it too. If he has I'm going to try making a diode with it. I have made crystal radios too, long, long ago, but always with germanium diodes. I did however once made a special antenna for one, I had a few hundred meters of wire (aluminium if I recall correctly) and tied it to a kite (another hobby). I don't remember how high it went but the voltage (analog meter) was pretty spectaculair. So high that I didn't dare connect my crystal earphone to it...

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  • WilkoL commented on WilkoL's instructable Big Seven Segment Display
    Big Seven Segment Display

    Well, the capacity of the LEDs I used (J5630 from Cree) is approx 340pF. But that is when used with reverse polarity. I don't know if there is any capactity left when one uses them with a forward current. (silly idea: use the LEDs as varicaps :-), it might work...)But I did an experiment with my pulse -generator (other instructable) and I can confirm that even at a current of 5mA pulses of 500ns at a frequency of 1kHz is still visible as a low intensity glowIn total darkness even single pulses (1 Hz) of 500ns at 5mA can be seen. Shorter pulses are no longer visible (for me). I haven't tried it with higher currents.

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  • Variable Capacitor for a Crystal Set

    Oh, I love the point-contact diode! What material is it made of?

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  • WilkoL commented on WilkoL's instructable Big Seven Segment Display
    Big Seven Segment Display

    The apparent brightness is also the reason I chose to use a Sigmoid curve (exponential-ish) to increase and decrease the brightness. Eyes are very sensitive al low light levels. I've been told that someone with good eyesight, after adapting to total darkness, can detect a single photon...I have been experimenting with green LEDs at very low currents, I have a couple of 3mm LEDs that are still quite well visible at 1 uA (indoors). So yes, being able to see LEDs glow at normal currents with pulses of 1 us seems very likely to me.

    The apparent brightness is also the reason I chose to use a Sigmoid curve (exponential-ish) to increase and decrease the brightness. Eyes are very sensitive al low light levels. I've been told that someone with good eyesight, after adapting to total darkness, can detect a single photon...I have been experimenting with green LEDs at very low currents, I have a couple of 3mm LEDs that are still quite well visible at 1 uA (indoors). So yes, being able to see LEDs glow at normal currents with pulses of 1 us seems very likely to me.

    The apparent brightness is also the reason I chose to use a Sigmoid curve (exponential-ish) to increase and decrease the brightness. Eyes are very sensitive al low light levels. I've been told that someone with good eyesight, after adapting to total darkness, can detect a single photon...I have been experimenting with green LEDs at very low currents, I have a couple of 3mm LEDs that are still quite well visible at 1 uA (indoors). So yes, being able to see LEDs glow at normal currents with pulses of 1 us seems very likely to me.

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  • WilkoL commented on WilkoL's instructable Big Seven Segment Display
    Big Seven Segment Display

    First: Instructables is VERY slow with sending notifications, I received an email about your reply on the 28th of Januari!Hmmm, I have never thought about capacitance of LEDs and the effects of that... Some time ago there was an optical oscilloscope probe on Instructables, this is a good reason to have another look at it and build it. With it one can see how long LEDs stays lit after current to it has stopped. I wonder if all LEDs suffer from high capacitance or just the power LEDs....

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  • WilkoL commented on WilkoL's instructable Pulse Generator
    Pulse Generator

    First: Instructables is VERY slow with sending notifications, I received an email about your reply on the 28th of Januari!!!Ah, sprintf()... Yes, I found that problem too. And no, there is no itoa() or ltoa() available. So I had to make one myself, take a look here:https://gitlab.com/WilkoL/wakeup_light_stm8s103 In de lib folder you will find an itoa.h and itoa.cGood luck.

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  • WilkoL commented on dhamo1999's instructable IR REMOTE TESTER
    IR REMOTE TESTER

    What type of IR-receiver do you use? Most used are TSOP38x types and they should not be powered by more than 5.5V. I do like the simplicity of the circuit :-)

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  • WilkoL's instructable Big Seven Segment Display's weekly stats:
    • Big Seven Segment Display
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  • WilkoL commented on WilkoL's instructable Pulse Generator
    Pulse Generator

    I hope that I understand your question when I say, you want to move all pins of the rotary encoder to PORTD. They will then be connected to, for example PD2, PD3 and PD4. This means that all activity of the rotary encoder must be handled in one interrupt routine.INTERRUPT_HANDLER(EXTI_PORTD_IRQHandler, 6){//handle all input from rotary encoder}I think that is possible, but you will have to check the status of all GPIO inside of that interrupt routine and then decide what action is needed. It will make things more difficult but not impossible.I don't know what other things you want to do with the code but remember that you cannot move any peripheral to any GPIO. If I really needed more GPIO I would move from the STM8S103F3 to a STM8S103K3

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  • WilkoL commented on WilkoL's instructable Dual Trace Oscilloscope
    Dual Trace Oscilloscope

    If you put the amplifier/attenuator in the -3V to 3V range and shift the virtual ground (offset) up to the limit the measurement range will be from 0v to 6V. The same applies to the -6V to 6V range, shift the offset up all the way and the measurement will be from 0v to 12V.

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  • WilkoL commented on BramPoppe's instructable Arduino Linefollower DIY
    Arduino Linefollower DIY

    Hoi Bram, er hoeft niets aangepast te worden.. Het is een uitstekende Instructable. Het probleem is dat de editors van Instructable geen Nederlands spreken, dus kunnen ze niet op de juiste waarde schatten. Hetzelfde zie ik wel eens gebeuren met Spaans talige instructables. Ik kan die ook niet lezen maar als ik er een poosje naar kijk zie ik dat het vrijwel zeker een prima verhaal is waar door de maker (net als bij jouw verhaal) flink veel tijd in is gestoken. Sinds ik ook een paar Instructables heb geschreven is mijn waardering voor schrijvers met stukken omhoog gegaan. Ik neem mijn pet voor je af.

    Duidelijk verhaal. Jammer dat het niet een "featured item" is geworden. Dat zal wel komen doordat de editors geen andere talen beheersen dan engels.

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  • The Ultimate Chocolate Chips

    That's odd, I just posted that I made the cookies again but the foto's are missing. Maybe I can post them here?

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  • WilkoL made the instructable The Ultimate Chocolate Chips
    The Ultimate Chocolate Chips

    Again. But this time with white chocolate. Pictures made just before they went into the oven and not even 30 minutes after they came out! I wonder how long these will last.... :-)

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  • WilkoL commented on WilkoL's instructable Big Seven Segment Display
    Big Seven Segment Display

    Thanks, and thanks for your Instructables about how to create a good Instructable. There is one thing I cannot find out how to do though, how to place pictures in between the text instead of only at the top of every step. I know it is possible as I have seen some examples of that. Maybe you can show that in yet another "how to create an Instructable"...?

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  • The Ultimate Chocolate Chips

    They didn't last long :-)

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  • WilkoL made the instructable The Ultimate Chocolate Chips
    The Ultimate Chocolate Chips

    Yes, I made the cookies. Unfortunately they are still hot, can't wait.....

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  • WilkoL commented on Qttting_F's instructable Water Surface Lamp
    Water Surface Lamp

    I like it! So I tried to make it, but as I did not have neopixel rings I made it with led-strips (ebay). I have made it with pulse-width modulation to simulate the wave-function. See https://youtu.be/4hcCU3rrJ7c The code for the ATTINY2313:#define F_CPU 8000000UL#include <avr/io.h>#include <avr/interrupt.h>#include <avr/pgmspace.h>#include <util/delay.h>const uint8_t sigmoid[256] PROGMEM = { 1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 2, 2, 2, 2, 2, 2, 2, 3, 3, 3, 3, 4, 4, 4, 5, 5, 6, 6, 7, 7, 8, 9, 10, 10, 11, 13, 14, 15, 16, 18, 20, 22, 24, 26, 28, 31, 34, 37, 40, 43, 47, 51, 55, 59, 64, 69, 74, 79, 85, 91, 96, 102, 109, 115, 121, 128, 134, 140, 146, 153, 159, 164, 170, 176, 181, 186, 191, 196, 200, 204, 208, 212,…

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    I like it! So I tried to make it, but as I did not have neopixel rings I made it with led-strips (ebay). I have made it with pulse-width modulation to simulate the wave-function. See https://youtu.be/4hcCU3rrJ7c The code for the ATTINY2313:#define F_CPU 8000000UL#include <avr/io.h>#include <avr/interrupt.h>#include <avr/pgmspace.h>#include <util/delay.h>const uint8_t sigmoid[256] PROGMEM = { 1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 2, 2, 2, 2, 2, 2, 2, 3, 3, 3, 3, 4, 4, 4, 5, 5, 6, 6, 7, 7, 8, 9, 10, 10, 11, 13, 14, 15, 16, 18, 20, 22, 24, 26, 28, 31, 34, 37, 40, 43, 47, 51, 55, 59, 64, 69, 74, 79, 85, 91, 96, 102, 109, 115, 121, 128, 134, 140, 146, 153, 159, 164, 170, 176, 181, 186, 191, 196, 200, 204, 208, 212, 215, 218, 221, 224, 227, 229, 231, 233, 235, 237, 239, 240, 241, 242, 244, 245, 245, 246, 247, 248, 248, 249, 249, 250, 250, 251, 251, 251, 252, 252, 252, 252, 252, 251, 251, 251, 250, 250, 249, 249, 248, 248, 247, 246, 245, 245, 244, 242, 241, 240, 239, 237, 235, 233, 231, 229, 227, 224, 221, 218, 215, 212, 208, 204, 200, 196, 191, 186, 181, 176, 170, 164, 159, 153, 146, 140, 134, 128, 121, 115, 109, 102, 96, 91, 85, 79, 74, 69, 64, 59, 55, 51, 47, 43, 40, 37, 34, 31, 28, 26, 24, 22, 20, 18, 16, 15, 14, 13, 11, 10, 10, 9, 8, 7, 7, 6, 6, 5, 5, 4, 4, 4, 3, 3, 3, 3, 2, 2, 2, 2, 2, 2, 2, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1};volatile uint8_t teller = 0;volatile uint8_t compare[8];int main(void){ DDRB = 0x3F; //PB0 .. PB5 output TCCR0A = 0x00; //normal mode TCCR0B = (1 << CS00); //prescaler = 1 TIMSK = (1 << TOIE0); //interrupt on overflow sei(); while (1) { teller++; _delay_us(10); }}ISR (TIMER0_OVF_vect){ static uint8_t counter = 0xFF; static uint8_t pinlevel = 0x3F; PORTB = pinlevel; if (counter++ == 0x00) { pinlevel = 0xFF; compare[0] = pgm_read_byte (& sigmoid[(teller + 0) % 256]); compare[1] = pgm_read_byte (& sigmoid[(teller + 43) % 256]); compare[2] = pgm_read_byte (& sigmoid[(teller + 86) % 256]); compare[3] = pgm_read_byte (& sigmoid[(teller + 129) % 256]); compare[4] = pgm_read_byte (& sigmoid[(teller + 172) % 256]); compare[5] = pgm_read_byte (& sigmoid[(teller + 215) % 256]); //compare[6] = pgm_read_byte (& sigmoid[(teller + 192) % 256]); //compare[7] = pgm_read_byte (& sigmoid[(teller + 224) % 256]); } if (counter == compare[0]) pinlevel &= ~0x01; if (counter == compare[1]) pinlevel &= ~0x02; if (counter == compare[2]) pinlevel &= ~0x04; if (counter == compare[3]) pinlevel &= ~0x08; if (counter == compare[4]) pinlevel &= ~0x10; if (counter == compare[5]) pinlevel &= ~0x20; //if (counter == compare[6]) pinlevel &= ~0x40; //if (counter == compare[7]) pinlevel &= ~0x80;}

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  • WilkoL commented on WilkoL's instructable Dual Trace Oscilloscope
    Dual Trace Oscilloscope

    Dude, it is so simple, if you don't like what I write in an article, don't read it. People are different you know. I do like to know how things work, ADCs, transistors, GPS, diesel engines, particle accelerators, and yes, even valves (tubes, in your language) but if you don't , don't learn about them. If you don't like the program on your telly, don't watch it. If you do not want to climb a mountain, don't do it. If you aren't interested in sub-atomic particles, ignore them. But realize that many other people do. And seeing that 58000 people read this article and over 500 even added it to their list of "liked" articles, there are at least some here who did enjoy reading it. I am looking forward to your first article here on Instructables, no doubt it is going to be awesome.Have …

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    Dude, it is so simple, if you don't like what I write in an article, don't read it. People are different you know. I do like to know how things work, ADCs, transistors, GPS, diesel engines, particle accelerators, and yes, even valves (tubes, in your language) but if you don't , don't learn about them. If you don't like the program on your telly, don't watch it. If you do not want to climb a mountain, don't do it. If you aren't interested in sub-atomic particles, ignore them. But realize that many other people do. And seeing that 58000 people read this article and over 500 even added it to their list of "liked" articles, there are at least some here who did enjoy reading it. I am looking forward to your first article here on Instructables, no doubt it is going to be awesome.Have a nice day.

    While impressive, building your own house, I chose to simply buy one. Which was easier and as it was build by professionals of better quality than I could possibly make. Forty years ago I bought a Kenwood tranceiver, because why should I try to rebuild that wheel... Later I did pretty much the same with my television, microwave and laptop. No need to reinvent those wheels either, right?The thing is, I like to learn about the inner workings of ADCs, the many variants and when to use one type or the other, I like to learn about the workings of bipolar npn and pnp transistors, j-fets, n-channel and p-channel mosfets, uni-junction transistors etc and when using one type is more appropriate to use than another. And most certainly, a modern tv is much better than one with a Nipkow disk, but I …

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    While impressive, building your own house, I chose to simply buy one. Which was easier and as it was build by professionals of better quality than I could possibly make. Forty years ago I bought a Kenwood tranceiver, because why should I try to rebuild that wheel... Later I did pretty much the same with my television, microwave and laptop. No need to reinvent those wheels either, right?The thing is, I like to learn about the inner workings of ADCs, the many variants and when to use one type or the other, I like to learn about the workings of bipolar npn and pnp transistors, j-fets, n-channel and p-channel mosfets, uni-junction transistors etc and when using one type is more appropriate to use than another. And most certainly, a modern tv is much better than one with a Nipkow disk, but I still intent to make one. For fun.Happy 2021

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  • WilkoL commented on WilkoL's instructable Dual Trace Oscilloscope
    Dual Trace Oscilloscope

    Yeah well, I have a Rigol 4-channel scope, an (old) Hitachi 2-channel and an (ancient) Hameg 2-channel. I didn't need another one :-) But I wanted to do something with the ADC's in a STM32 microcontroller and this was a nice project to do just that. A lot of things shown on Instructables can be bought in a shop, often of higher quality and sometimes even a cheaper. But where is the fun in that?!Oh, and two separate scopes are often not as usefull as one dual channel, as on a dual channel you can see the relationship (in time) between the two signals.

    So what better things have you made?

    The 4066 was chosen over small-signal-relais as they use too much current and would have used more space. (And I have them in my parts collection :-) ) Putting in more 4066s wasn't an option for me as the project box I had in mind was too small to put more in. Do show what you made, or even write an Instructable about it!Have fun building your version.

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  • WilkoL's instructable Wakeup Light's weekly stats:
    • Wakeup Light
      355 views
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  • WilkoL commented on RyanMake's instructable $2 Storm Glass Guide!!!
    $2 Storm Glass Guide!!!

    I'll take care with it. It may be just 1%, but the rest is ethanol which burns pretty well too. At the moment I have more problems getting my hands on the other ingredient: Camphor. The best I have found so far is very small blocks (few grams) for a lot of money (30+ euro).

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  • WilkoL commented on RyanMake's instructable $2 Storm Glass Guide!!!
    $2 Storm Glass Guide!!!

    I have denatured ethanol that claims to be 99% ethanol, 1% MEK (acetone?) and is quite cheap, about 30 euro for 5 liter. Is that good enough for this experiment?( https://www.werkenmetmerken.nl/nl/biologische_ethanol_99_/p/23122 )

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  • WilkoL entered Wakeup Light in the Anything Goes Contest contest
  • The Baker's Gambit  – a 3D Sugar Cookie Chess Set

    Finally one can have his cake and eat it!

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  • WilkoL commented on WilkoL's instructable Pulse Generator
    Pulse Generator

    Very interesting. I haven't done anything in assembler since I made an eprom programmer on my BBC-model-B home computer, that must be almost 40 years ago by now. I'll be busy reading the articles on your site and perhaps give assembler another try.

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  • Sinewave and Cosinewave Signal Generator

    I read this on that site:"The result of the Vortex Coil they created, and demonstrate repeatedly in their videos, is a greater output of energy than the input once tuned to the correct frequencies"But they failed to explain where this extra energy is coming from, at least they failed to explain it to me...

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  • Sinewave and Cosinewave Signal Generator

    Still having to learn at my age... what is a vortex coil?

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  • WilkoL commented on BramPoppe's instructable Arduino Linefollower DIY
    Arduino Linefollower DIY

    Laat je niet opjagen :-) Morgen is er weer een dag.

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  • Sinewave and Cosinewave Signal Generator

    Well, anything can, but not with just two DACs. You will have to make something with six DACs, PWM outputs (of timers) or create extra DACs yourself with R2R-ladders. I have never seen a microcontroller with six DACs, and making R2R ladders is a lot of work so I would make it with timers. The trouble with PWM is that the frequency of the PWM signal has to be (much) higher than the signal you are trying to create.Now that I'm thinking about it, just three DACs may be enough, after all the 4th, 5th and 6th signals will be 180 degrees shifted in phase compared to the 1st, 2nd and 3rd, meaning they are simply the inverse. But you'd have to invert them somehow, an opamp will do that, but again, at what frequencies? So the first question I'd ask you is, at what frequency (range) do you need t…

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    Well, anything can, but not with just two DACs. You will have to make something with six DACs, PWM outputs (of timers) or create extra DACs yourself with R2R-ladders. I have never seen a microcontroller with six DACs, and making R2R ladders is a lot of work so I would make it with timers. The trouble with PWM is that the frequency of the PWM signal has to be (much) higher than the signal you are trying to create.Now that I'm thinking about it, just three DACs may be enough, after all the 4th, 5th and 6th signals will be 180 degrees shifted in phase compared to the 1st, 2nd and 3rd, meaning they are simply the inverse. But you'd have to invert them somehow, an opamp will do that, but again, at what frequencies? So the first question I'd ask you is, at what frequency (range) do you need those six signals? The second question then is, what type of signal, sinewave, sawtooth, squarewave? And the third question is, with what hardware, a STM32 or an Arduino Uno or anything else?If the frequency is low enough, say 50Hz or 10kHz, it'll be easy, even when you need it to be variable. Going higher will mean that the signal quality will decrease. For some applications that will not matter much but it might for what you have in mind. So what are you going to do with those six signals?

    Here is something I made this afternoon with an Arduino Mini Pro running on 8 MHz. It produces three sinewaves with 60 degrees between them at 100 Hz. I used Atmel Studio 7 to program it but I think you can use it with the Arduino software too. /* * sixty_degrees.cpp * * Created: 9-12-2020 12:47:48 * Author : wilko */#define F_CPU 8000000UL #include <avr/io.h>#include <util/delay.h>uint8_t sinewave[256] ={ 0x80, 0x83, 0x85, 0x88, 0x8B, 0x8E, 0x90, 0x93, 0x96, 0x99, 0x9B, 0x9E, 0xA1, 0xA3, 0xA6, 0xA8, 0xAB, 0xAD, 0xB0, 0xB2, 0xB5, 0xB7, 0xBA, 0xBC, 0xBE, 0xC0, 0xC3, 0xC5, 0xC7, 0xC9, 0xCB, 0xCD, 0xCF, 0xD1, 0xD3, 0xD5, 0xD7, 0xD8, 0xDA, 0xDC, 0xDD, 0xDF, 0xE0, 0xE1, 0xE3, 0xE4, 0xE5, 0xE6, 0xE7, 0xE8, 0xE9, 0xEA, 0xEB, 0xEC, 0xED, 0xED, 0xEE, 0xEE, 0xEF, 0xEF, 0xEF, 0xF…

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    Here is something I made this afternoon with an Arduino Mini Pro running on 8 MHz. It produces three sinewaves with 60 degrees between them at 100 Hz. I used Atmel Studio 7 to program it but I think you can use it with the Arduino software too. /* * sixty_degrees.cpp * * Created: 9-12-2020 12:47:48 * Author : wilko */#define F_CPU 8000000UL #include <avr/io.h>#include <util/delay.h>uint8_t sinewave[256] ={ 0x80, 0x83, 0x85, 0x88, 0x8B, 0x8E, 0x90, 0x93, 0x96, 0x99, 0x9B, 0x9E, 0xA1, 0xA3, 0xA6, 0xA8, 0xAB, 0xAD, 0xB0, 0xB2, 0xB5, 0xB7, 0xBA, 0xBC, 0xBE, 0xC0, 0xC3, 0xC5, 0xC7, 0xC9, 0xCB, 0xCD, 0xCF, 0xD1, 0xD3, 0xD5, 0xD7, 0xD8, 0xDA, 0xDC, 0xDD, 0xDF, 0xE0, 0xE1, 0xE3, 0xE4, 0xE5, 0xE6, 0xE7, 0xE8, 0xE9, 0xEA, 0xEB, 0xEC, 0xED, 0xED, 0xEE, 0xEE, 0xEF, 0xEF, 0xEF, 0xF0, 0xF0, 0xF0, 0xF0, 0xF0, 0xF0, 0xF0, 0xEF, 0xEF, 0xEF, 0xEE, 0xEE, 0xED, 0xED, 0xEC, 0xEB, 0xEA, 0xE9, 0xE8, 0xE7, 0xE6, 0xE5, 0xE4, 0xE3, 0xE1, 0xE0, 0xDF, 0xDD, 0xDC, 0xDA, 0xD8, 0xD7, 0xD5, 0xD3, 0xD1, 0xCF, 0xCD, 0xCB, 0xC9, 0xC7, 0xC5, 0xC3, 0xC0, 0xBE, 0xBC, 0xBA, 0xB7, 0xB5, 0xB2, 0xB0, 0xAD, 0xAB, 0xA8, 0xA6, 0xA3, 0xA1, 0x9E, 0x9B, 0x99, 0x96, 0x93, 0x90, 0x8E, 0x8B, 0x88, 0x85, 0x83, 0x80, 0x7D, 0x7B, 0x78, 0x75, 0x72, 0x70, 0x6D, 0x6A, 0x67, 0x65, 0x62, 0x5F, 0x5D, 0x5A, 0x58, 0x55, 0x53, 0x50, 0x4E, 0x4B, 0x49, 0x46, 0x44, 0x42, 0x40, 0x3D, 0x3B, 0x39, 0x37, 0x35, 0x33, 0x31, 0x2F, 0x2D, 0x2B, 0x29, 0x28, 0x26, 0x24, 0x23, 0x21, 0x20, 0x1F, 0x1D, 0x1C, 0x1B, 0x1A, 0x19, 0x18, 0x17, 0x16, 0x15, 0x14, 0x13, 0x13, 0x12, 0x12, 0x11, 0x11, 0x11, 0x10, 0x10, 0x10, 0x10, 0x10, 0x10, 0x10, 0x11, 0x11, 0x11, 0x12, 0x12, 0x13, 0x13, 0x14, 0x15, 0x16, 0x17, 0x18, 0x19, 0x1A, 0x1B, 0x1C, 0x1D, 0x1F, 0x20, 0x21, 0x23, 0x24, 0x26, 0x28, 0x29, 0x2B, 0x2D, 0x2F, 0x31, 0x33, 0x35, 0x37, 0x39, 0x3B, 0x3D, 0x40, 0x42, 0x44, 0x46, 0x49, 0x4B, 0x4E, 0x50, 0x53, 0x55, 0x58, 0x5A, 0x5D, 0x5F, 0x62, 0x65, 0x67, 0x6A, 0x6D, 0x70, 0x72, 0x75, 0x78, 0x7B, 0x7D};int main(void){ uint8_t phase; //gpio DDRD |= (1 << PD5) | (1 << PD6); //OC0B and OC0A DDRB |= (1 << PB1); //OC1A //timer0 TCCR0A |= (1 << COM0A0) | (1 << COM0A1); //Set OC0A on compare match, clear OC0A at BOTTOM TCCR0A |= (1 << COM0B0) | (1 << COM0B1); //Set OC0B on compare match, clear OC0B at BOTTOM TCCR0A |= (1 << WGM00) | (1 << WGM01); //Fast PWM TOP=0xFF TCCR0B |= (1 << CS00); //clk/1 (no prescaling) TCNT0 = 0; OCR0A = 0; OCR0B = 0; TIMSK0 = 0; //timer1 TCCR1A |= (1 << COM1A0) | (1 << COM1A1); //Set OC1A on compare match, clear OC1A at BOTTOM TCCR1A |= (1 << WGM10); //Fast PWM, 8 bit TOP=0x00FF TCCR1B |= (1 << WGM12); TCCR1B |= (1 << CS10); //clk/1 (no prescaling) TCCR1C = 0; TCNT1 = 0; OCR1A = 0; OCR1B = 0; TIMSK1 = 0; //still need do something with prescaler (synchonize) GTCCR phase = 0; while (1) { OCR0A = sinewave[phase]; OCR0B = sinewave[(phase + 43) % 256]; OCR1A = sinewave[(phase + 85) % 256]; phase++; _delay_us(34); }}

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  • WilkoL commented on BramPoppe's instructable Arduino Linefollower DIY
    Arduino Linefollower DIY

    De laatste stappen zijn leeg, komen die later nog? En een filmpje zou ook geweldig zijn. Ik ben benieuwd.

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  • WilkoL commented on WilkoL's instructable Dual Trace Oscilloscope
    Dual Trace Oscilloscope

    Good to hear! It is still funny to see one's project build by someone else. (BTW, Bemmelen sounds Dutch, are you a fellow Nederlander?)

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    • Clock Generator With Si5351 and Blue Pill
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  • WilkoL commented on WilkoL's instructable Dual Trace Oscilloscope
    Dual Trace Oscilloscope

    Well, I don't really care, so I leave it under the default licence that Instructables has chosen, "attribution-non-commercial-sharealike". It may be that the initialization code that comes out of STMCubeMX (from STMicroelectronics) has some restrictions but considering that they are a hardware producer that wants their microcontrollers sold as much as possible it the restrictions will probably be minimal.Why do you ask? This scope isn't comparable to a "real" oscilloscope such as a Rigol or even a USB Pico-scope... I made it because I wanted to see how far I could push the ADC's with DMA in a STM32F103Cheers,Wilko

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  • WilkoL commented on Polkilo's instructable Lamp in Minecraft Style!
    Lamp in Minecraft Style!

    Thanks for Step 9 :-)

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