alcurb

Nice Nixie work-alike concept, but if you know Nixies, you know that they are nearly never any color than red-orange. I would have liked to have seen a pic of it, glowing orange, and be momentarily confused about whether it's a true-nixie or not. To me, that moment of confusion is what I would call an effective Faux. That said, your project is wonderfully designed and constructed and it shows you spent much effort and dedication to it.

Very clever. I can see it being used in a post-apocalyptic world where trading would be done with no-longer-manufactured objects and coin-money would only amount to semi-accurate weights.As a thought experiment, I wonder what the limits would be with a larger glueless cardboard scale, that is, what is the heaviest object it could theoretically weigh before the scale's cardboard structure collapses.

Very nice project. I'm going to give it a go and adapt it to my printer, but I'm going to try not to remove the print head. Might be too tricky.I have used the sharpie method to draw resist on a board by hand and found that sometimes etchant leaches under the resist where some simple lines were drawn. I was wondering: Have you tried drawing with a pen at low speed with tighter fill patterns for laying down thicker resist thus avoiding etchant leaching? I don't mean laying resist on top of resist which only serves to dissolve the first resist layer, but rather laying down a tight pattern on the first go, e.g., drawing a line as a narrow box and filling it in rather than drawing a line with one or two line-drawing passes. The ideal might be wrong thinking, but it plays out very well in ...

Very nice project. I'm going to give it a go and adapt it to my printer, but I'm going to try not to remove the print head. Might be too tricky.I have used the sharpie method to draw resist on a board by hand and found that sometimes etchant leaches under the resist where some simple lines were drawn. I was wondering: Have you tried drawing with a pen at low speed with tighter fill patterns for laying down thicker resist thus avoiding etchant leaching? I don't mean laying resist on top of resist which only serves to dissolve the first resist layer, but rather laying down a tight pattern on the first go, e.g., drawing a line as a narrow box and filling it in rather than drawing a line with one or two line-drawing passes. The ideal might be wrong thinking, but it plays out very well in my head. ;-)I have also found, with the manual drawing method, that a clean copper is a happy copper lad...uhm...clad. ;-) The cleaner copper surface will accept the resist better and also avoid etchant leaching to some extent. Once the copper clad is clean, don't touch it with ungloved hands to avoid depositing grease on the copper undoing your efforts.

Awesome project, results and documentation!! You must be an electromechanical engineer or engineering tech. Great job!Now make one about 4 km long to launch something into space! I'll ask Elon Musk to fund it for you! ;-) (it's cheap to dream)

Nice project and looks like a prosumer factory-built photography tool. I've been looking for an easy inexpensive camera slider solution and you just made one. Well done!!Just one minor issue: the link you posted for the wheels is exactly the same as the one for aluminum profiles.Thanks for putting this instructable out. It's fun--isn't it?

I love the lamp. It looks fantastic and unique--haven't seen that anywhere else. I fantasize what that would look like with an exhaust plume animation using individually-addressable RGB LEDs added for two modes: lamp mode and animation mode.

Beautifully interesting!I'm very interested in buying the kit if or when it becomes available. Having some commercial service laser-cut it for me is prohibitively expensive. I would rather buy the bits from Durss.

Beautifully interesting!I'm very interested in buying the kit when or if it becomes available. Having a commercial service laser-cut it for me is prohibitively expensive. I would rather buy the cut bits from you, Durss.

I've used the big guns too, but never in someone else's rental property and very very sparingly as I resist having to tear into walls and/or floors to replace eaten-through pipes. I understand where you're coming from, tho, because Drano doesn't do a good job unclogging all the money I poured into the drain to buy that stuff. Vinegar and baking soda are much cheaper.

What is the time ratio between the vinegar/baking soda solution and Drano, that is, how much time should we give the vinegar/baking soda application to do its job?