alcurb

Thats an amazing working reproduction. Many kudos to you. I'm in awe of your skills.It brought back memories when i trained on one of these, or something very similar to it, in high school in the late '70s (yes I'm old, but i seldom want to admit it). My high school electronics instructor was an old analog WW2 ship's radio operator who knew very little about digital electronics and thus didn't teach it. I asked him for advice for learning about digital circuits and he brought out the trainer with a book and said if i could finish the training before the end of the term i would get extra credit. I was on my own with this trainer, went through the lessons, and aced my self-led tutorial. Learning on this fun device became the foundation of what I know today regarding discreet digital electr…

Thats an amazing working reproduction. Many kudos to you. I'm in awe of your skills.It brought back memories when i trained on one of these, or something very similar to it, in high school in the late '70s (yes I'm old, but i seldom want to admit it). My high school electronics instructor was an old analog WW2 ship's radio operator who knew very little about digital electronics and thus didn't teach it. I asked him for advice for learning about digital circuits and he brought out the trainer with a book and said if i could finish the training before the end of the term i would get extra credit. I was on my own with this trainer, went through the lessons, and aced my self-led tutorial. Learning on this fun device became the foundation of what I know today regarding discreet digital electronics.

Thats an amazing working reproduction. Many kudos to you. I'm in awe of your skills.It brought back memories when i trained on one of these in high school in the late '70s (yes I'm old, but i seldom want to admit it). My high school electronics instructor was an old analog WW2 ship's radio operator and knew very little about digital electronics. I was on my own with this trainer and aced my self-led tutorial. It was fun.

Very nice design and documentation work. You definitely think like a design EE or an experienced engineering tech. That's intended as a compliment. I admire your attention to detail.

Congratulations on getting featured. Seems like it's a well thought out design.I'm trying to visualize how to use the tool. Do you have a demo video somewhere of this device in operation?

Adafruit offers good information regarding how this works: https://learn.adafruit.com/pi-hole-ad-pitft-tft-detection-display?view=all

It's a cool idea because it exploits a behavior the player would do naturally.As I'm more of a visual person, it would be nice to see a schematic or hookup diagram showing how everything goes together particularly how it interfaces to the game controller or keyboard.

It's a very clever dot matrix display. Kudos to your imagination and engineering!You know that this project is screaming "make me into a kit...make me into a kit!!" Can't you hear it? I do have a question. The eight-port manifold is an aquarium product? How did you source it?

That was a beautiful piece of ephemeral art. Have you given thought about making a permanent display down to the smallest detail? I suspect that artificially duplicating a dandelion down to the smallest part would be very challenging.I noticed in one of your pictures a painting of the first female Italian astronaut Capt. Cristoforetti. Did you paint it?

Great job, Jack!! It's awesome that you made design changes to make the boat float better and track straighter. You have any plans to make a boat that goes farther and faster? What is the next thing you're going to make?

The front and back packs are amazing and look camera-ready. I've seen the real props in a Kubrick exhibit in San Francisco and your rendition looks very very close. Good job!I'd love to see the finished helmet at various angles. One of the hardest things to reproduce from the film and make it look good is the helmet, to make the lens (face shield) the right size, proportion and curvature and to make the coupling ring look like it's been made in a milling machine. I'm curious how the prop-makers for the film tackled such difficult task. Did they actually make the lens from scratch?There is no doubt that anyone who has seen 2001: a Space Odyssey, would immediately recognize your suit.

How about a microswitch placed inside near the plug hole, so that when you pull out the plug, the microswitch trips and signals the arduino to reverse the motor direction to reset the mechanism.

Funny project!How does the mechanism reset itself for the next unpluginating?

Wow. That looks like a lot of fun and surprising the wee Wemos can do all of that. Very cool.

Wow. That looks like a lot of fun and surprising the wee Wemos can do all of that. Very cool.

Very nice project. I look forward to seeing the video and see what the browser page looks like in action.

Very haunting sounds. Beautiful. It kinda reminds me of the environmental sounds on an alien planet surface in Start Trek original series.

Brilliant piece! Nice sounds. With a little "makeup" you can make it into a new Star Wars Cantina band playable musical instrument prop.Ever since I watched the video of Jean-Michel Jarre playing his laser harp, I've been fascinated with laser musical instruments. I think his uses a galvo which is beyond my budget, but your solution is better with the low-cost low-wattage laser modules, something I could get into and afford. Your piece got me thinking of building a hand-held version with red and green laser modules and with touch-sensitive frets. I'm considering the new powerful Teensy 4.0. with a PJRC audio shield.I like the timbre chooser wheel turned by a stepper motor! How cool is that, and you didn't resort to using the ubiquitous mini-OLED display. Kudos to you for your or…

Brilliant piece! Nice sounds. With a little "makeup" you can make it into a new Star Wars Cantina band playable musical instrument prop.Ever since I watched the video of Jean-Michel Jarre playing his laser harp, I've been fascinated with laser musical instruments. I think his uses a galvo which is beyond my budget, but your solution is better with the low-cost low-wattage laser modules, something I could get into and afford. Your piece got me thinking of building a hand-held version with red and green laser modules and with touch-sensitive frets. I'm considering the new powerful Teensy 4.0. with a PJRC audio shield.I like the timbre chooser wheel turned by a stepper motor! How cool is that, and you didn't resort to using the ubiquitous mini-OLED display. Kudos to you for your originality.

Thanks for your reply. I'm thinking that instead of the acrylic dome, I could use a recycled desk lamp magnifier which is about 4 to 5 inches across and has a flat side and a curved side. Therefore, I can paste a disc-shaped flat moon image to the flat side. I'm not sure how that would look. I would need to experiment. Can you give me more specifics on the sticker material itself you used? Perhaps you might provide me with a brand and model number, or a link to a product online? Is it a material that is printed on by your run-of-the-mill color inkjet printer?Thanks in advance!

It's a beautiful project and I would like to reproduce it, but I'd need more information. The materials list tells you the what but the where, the material sources would be very helpful, for instance, where or how would one go about printing a vinyl moon? Image source?. What would be a reasonable alternative to vinyl? Would paper look good? What about the rear dome? Where did it come from? Sources for domes?

What happened to the most interesting parts of the sculpture, the nose and the legs? They seem to have gone missing.

It's a Tardis! The inside is bigger than the outside! It's an interesting illusion in the photos.

I like the open frame "enclosure". I'm a nerd in that I like to open up devices to see what makes it tick. Your design satisfies that curiosity.

Wow...you got all of that from the phrase "monster big"? You know that only means that it is extraordinarily huge if it were living and nothing more than that, right? Or perhaps you're expressing yourself poetically?

Have you given up on making a video for this project? I'm interest in seeing and hearing how the 'no touch' theremin performs, how one could actually make music with it, not just produce sound effects.

I look at the photos and keep looking at them and my mind doesn't want to see anything else other than the real thing only monster big!A zillion kudos to you for such a brilliant execution of your project.

Very cool. I took a look at the costumes on SYFY, THEY ROCK!!

I have some nuts and bolts questions regarding the construction:1. How do you safely cut the CD without mangling or scratching it?2. Would you necessarily get better performance if the interior of the tube and caps were painted flat black?3. In your instructions, you indicated to cut the CD wedge a little wider than the diameter of the tube, but I would like to know: how wide should the wedge be on the hub end? Seems to me that it might be a somewhat critical measurement if you want to seat the wedge at a 40-deg angle inside a cylinder.4. What would be the best kind of disc ("CD") to produce the full rainbow effect, mass-produced Audio CD, CDROM, DVD, Bluray disc, ....?

Beautiful work! You got skill. Were you a contestant in Face Off?

Suggestion: since you don't have the pics, you can make new ones from screenshots of your video and maybe using the transcript of your narration to write the formatted steps. With the steps and screenshots, you'll have a complete instructable. I've seen other instructables constructed that way, and they don't look bad IMO.

In the real Lite-Brite toy, if I recall correctly, there's a black construction paper sandwiched between the pegboard and the light box so that when you push a peg into one of the holes, the peg punctures the black paper allowing light to come through that peg.

Nice-looking prop props hood ornament thingy! I was thinking that if this prop ornament becomes a legal issue, it could be mounted in the back and call it a push-prop.

I will be first in line to buy if or when this project becomes available as a complete kit for sale.Well done.

Nice project.I always wanted to buy a few Nanoleaf kits, but they are prohibitively expensive and your solution is far more cost efficient. One thing I noticed, in your pictures of the lit hexagons, that there are 'hot spots' where the LEDs are located. I'm not sure if one would be able to notice that when looking at it directly. Seems that one would, especially when the brightness is turned down. Is there a way to mitigate the hot spots so that the light is spread evenly across the surface? Here's an idea, LCD screens that are edge-lit as most are, have a film that evenly disperses the light across the entire surface of the screen. Maybe that is something that could be exploited for this project. To reduce cost, find an electronics junk recycler and buy up a bunch of non-working monitors…

Nice project.I always wanted to buy a few Nanoleaf kits, but they are prohibitively expensive and your solution is far more cost efficient. One thing I noticed, in your pictures of the lit hexagons, that there are 'hot spots' where the LEDs are located. I'm not sure if one would be able to notice that when looking at it directly. Seems that one would, especially when the brightness is turned down. Is there a way to mitigate the hot spots so that the light is spread evenly across the surface? Here's an idea, LCD screens that are edge-lit as most are, have a film that evenly disperses the light across the entire surface of the screen. Maybe that is something that could be exploited for this project. To reduce cost, find an electronics junk recycler and buy up a bunch of non-working monitors to harvest the special film. Then the film can be cut to shape and applied to the interior of the hexagons.

Very nice! You can actually do some science with your project.Check out publiclab.org and spectralworkbench.org. They have a spectrometer of similar design to yours, but their's is made of folded paper and is very flimsy, that is, very easy to damage. While yours is very robust as it can take some beating in the field compared to public lab's. In spectralworkbench.org, there's a web app (and python stand-alone one as well) that can process the spectrum you photograph for analysis. Not only can you tell composition of glowing gasses, such as neon, argon, xenon, sun, etc, but you can also analyze non-gaseous materials by analyzing the reflected or transmitted light from the material. You can do some really cool nerdy sciency stuff with it.I voted for your project.

The text of Step 7 doesn't make sense to me unless it relates to a schematic that I wasn't able to find in your Instructable.

You're welcome.If you are actually going to modify the table, I'd definitely want to stay tuned to see the finished product. That would be crazy cool.

Maybe the author forgot to post the link to the stl file as it would be too unkind to not share it. I'd give this individual the benefit of the doubt.

Very cool. The first thought that came to my mind when I saw the pic of the finished product is that it it's a giant Alexa! All it needs is some buttons and the LED ring to complete the illusion. It can even have some decent speakers in it and have an actual Alexa unit (Echo dot) embedded to give it full functionality. Gears are turning.

Very clever functional art piece! You should be very proud of your work.Has anyone commissioned you to build another one? You can easily charge triple your cost as it is very unique how the time words are presented. Well done.

Nice Nixie work-alike concept, but if you know Nixies, you know that they are nearly never any color than red-orange. I would have liked to have seen a pic of it, glowing orange, and be momentarily confused about whether it's a true-nixie or not. To me, that moment of confusion is what I would call an effective Faux. That said, your project is wonderfully designed and constructed and it shows you spent much effort and dedication to it.

Very clever. I can see it being used in a post-apocalyptic world where trading would be done with no-longer-manufactured objects and coin-money would only amount to semi-accurate weights.As a thought experiment, I wonder what the limits would be with a larger glueless cardboard scale, that is, what is the heaviest object it could theoretically weigh before the scale's cardboard structure collapses.

Very nice project. I'm going to give it a go and adapt it to my printer, but I'm going to try not to remove the print head. Might be too tricky.I have used the sharpie method to draw resist on a board by hand and found that sometimes etchant leaches under the resist where some simple lines were drawn. I was wondering: Have you tried drawing with a pen at low speed with tighter fill patterns for laying down thicker resist thus avoiding etchant leaching? I don't mean laying resist on top of resist which only serves to dissolve the first resist layer, but rather laying down a tight pattern on the first go, e.g., drawing a line as a narrow box and filling it in rather than drawing a line with one or two line-drawing passes. The ideal might be wrong thinking, but it plays out very well in my…

Very nice project. I'm going to give it a go and adapt it to my printer, but I'm going to try not to remove the print head. Might be too tricky.I have used the sharpie method to draw resist on a board by hand and found that sometimes etchant leaches under the resist where some simple lines were drawn. I was wondering: Have you tried drawing with a pen at low speed with tighter fill patterns for laying down thicker resist thus avoiding etchant leaching? I don't mean laying resist on top of resist which only serves to dissolve the first resist layer, but rather laying down a tight pattern on the first go, e.g., drawing a line as a narrow box and filling it in rather than drawing a line with one or two line-drawing passes. The ideal might be wrong thinking, but it plays out very well in my head. ;-)I have also found, with the manual drawing method, that a clean copper is a happy copper lad...uhm...clad. ;-) The cleaner copper surface will accept the resist better and also avoid etchant leaching to some extent. Once the copper clad is clean, don't touch it with ungloved hands to avoid depositing grease on the copper undoing your efforts.

Awesome project, results and documentation!! You must be an electromechanical engineer or engineering tech. Great job!Now make one about 4 km long to launch something into space! I'll ask Elon Musk to fund it for you! ;-) (it's cheap to dream)

Nice project and looks like a prosumer factory-built photography tool. I've been looking for an easy inexpensive camera slider solution and you just made one. Well done!!Just one minor issue: the link you posted for the wheels is exactly the same as the one for aluminum profiles.Thanks for putting this instructable out. It's fun--isn't it?

I love the lamp. It looks fantastic and unique--haven't seen that anywhere else. I fantasize what that would look like with an exhaust plume animation using individually-addressable RGB LEDs added for two modes: lamp mode and animation mode.

Beautifully interesting!I'm very interested in buying the kit if or when it becomes available. Having some commercial service laser-cut it for me is prohibitively expensive. I would rather buy the bits from Durss.

Beautifully interesting!I'm very interested in buying the kit when or if it becomes available. Having a commercial service laser-cut it for me is prohibitively expensive. I would rather buy the cut bits from you, Durss.

I've used the big guns too, but never in someone else's rental property and very very sparingly as I resist having to tear into walls and/or floors to replace eaten-through pipes. I understand where you're coming from, tho, because Drano doesn't do a good job unclogging all the money I poured into the drain to buy that stuff. Vinegar and baking soda are much cheaper.

What is the time ratio between the vinegar/baking soda solution and Drano, that is, how much time should we give the vinegar/baking soda application to do its job?