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The devices in question are 50w audio amplifiers. I decided to check them against a 23.5w amplifier I have and that one is rated as 5.5a, it seemed odd to me that a less powerful amplifier would have a higher current rating so at that point it occurred to me that perhaps I'd misunderstood and the ratings might be for a peak current spike rather than constant pull. I found a watts to amps calculator online and it said that the 50w amplifier should only pull 2.5w, and the 23.5w amplifier should pull a bit under 2a so do you think there would be any issues with running two of either amplifier off of my single powerbank?
i reckon your 3rd option is my best bet, i'm not sure how to go about doing an accurate template but i think i'll have more than enough space to mark a precise line at least a quarter of an inch either side of a central cutting line that i can sand down to...
the enclosures are for mounting onto a sidecar type trailer, hopefully this rough model i did in Tinkercad gives you a better idea of the shapes i intend to end up with
so far i've only printed with PLA and PETG and i'd prefer to use PETG as the speakers are for use outdoors and i've been told PLA doesn't cope well with direct sunlight, do you know if there's a suitable bonding agent for PETG?
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That little regulator looks ideal but it looks to top out at 9v output is there another one that can take a 4s lipo output (14.8v nominal, 16.8v max) or can this one be wired to bypass the regulator part and just use the cutoff part? I've tried searching for one with a higher output but so far can only find up to 12v...
I already have an alarm, what I need is a device that detects separate cell voltage in the same way as these alarms and cuts the power from the battery instead of activating a buzzer
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will this work as is on a 4s pack or will it need to be modified in any way?
nevermind, i found a solution (not sure how i failed to find this before). https://www.instructables.com/Make-a-Battery-Protection-Circuit-low-voltage-cut-/
i'm hoping that the alarms can be modified in some way so that instead of making a noise i probably won't hear they cut off the power from the batteries instead. is there perhaps some kind of electronic switch that could be set up to unlatch instead of setting an alarm off?
I thought about posting an instructable but I don't know anything about how to weld or cnc, these were done on my behalf from my doodles. I just did a passable job of sawing and bolting stuff together haha...
change colour in the same way wood does when it gets wet or darker than that?
i saw bicycles with sidecar cargo platforms and thought i'd try something similar with my board, i plan to have swappable platforms for different loads this one will have a big speaker bolted to it for skate meets/critical mass etc and another one is just going to be a plain cargo rack...
oh i intend to charge them with a standard charger, i was just concerned that running a combined 36v through 2 usb adapters that are presumably rated for 18v each might cause problems...
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the inspection cam fov really is very narrow. the rear cameras look promising but so far all i've found are wireless ones...
this is interesting, i've heard about this Raspberry Pi stuff occasionally but it all seemed really rather overwhelming so i haven't attempted to do anything with it before. i just googled it though and it might be more simple than i thought so i' going to see if i can find anyone locally who has experience with it :)
so i've been doing a bit more googling and there seems to be fpv monitors which appear to be chunky tablet like screens, obviously they're designed primarily for a wireless connection but does anyone know if they can be set up with a simple wired connection straight from the camera to the monitor? im worried that more wireless stuff means shorter battery life, plus those antennas will probably get in the way in a small enclosed space...
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in this instance it'll be a sidecar style platform attached to a longboard skateboard carrying an 18kg to 20kg load spread out as evenly as possible, effectively 2 parallel skateboards with a hinge/pivot where it attaches to the skateboard to let the skateboard lean/steer. my own weight will be spread across the majority of the skateboards length.i've previously used an especially long board with the load on the rear and then a conventional trailer on a shorter board, in both instances i caused damage to the load by accidentally kicking it when i was pushing hard so it seemed worth trying to mount the load on the opposite side of the board to my kicking side. a shorter and slightly wider setup will also be easier to get on public transport then the old really long one when i need to, and …
in this instance it'll be a sidecar style platform attached to a longboard skateboard carrying an 18kg to 20kg load spread out as evenly as possible, effectively 2 parallel skateboards with a hinge/pivot where it attaches to the skateboard to let the skateboard lean/steer. my own weight will be spread across the majority of the skateboards length.i've previously used an especially long board with the load on the rear and then a conventional trailer on a shorter board, in both instances i caused damage to the load by accidentally kicking it when i was pushing hard so it seemed worth trying to mount the load on the opposite side of the board to my kicking side. a shorter and slightly wider setup will also be easier to get on public transport then the old really long one when i need to, and hopefully will turn better with the shorter wheelbase...
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thanks, i did try looking at the data sheet but i lack the knowledge to fully comprehend them, your explanation is much easier to follow so i'll purchase a switch and hopefully it'll all work out :)
unfortunately there isn't really anywhere locally to me that sells useful components like this so i sent an email to RS components online shop asking for DPST switch suggestions and they suggested this DPDT switch: http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/products/0351140/ and told me that it would be fine but didn't include any info on how that would work. i tried googling to see if there were examples of DPDT switches wired up as DPST switches but so far i haven't found anything. so could i omit 2 of the contacts and use it as a DPST or would that not work for some reason?
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im working under the assumption that i need a 5A switch because that's what i was told by someone more knowledgeable than myself, but how do i work out the Amps that my circuits will be using so i can be sure i'm getting the correct thing? also would say a 10A switch be okay to use on a 5A circuit because i've only been able to find 4A, 10A and 20A switches so far and i would assume that getting a lower rated switch would be the less ideal option...?
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thanks for all the ideas :)
there are flashing LEDs? not normal ones with a circuit board of some description attached?
id like to do a scaled down version of this system, would a P-Audio BM2-D750 and one (or two) of these subs (http://store.accusafe.nl/onderdelen/luidsprekers/subwoofer/dayton-audio-sd215a-88-8-dvc-subwoofer-speaker) be compatible with my maxamp20 class D amp (http://store.accusafe.nl/modules/versterkers/maxamp20-met-3-5mm-connector) with an appropriate crossover? how do i choose a crossover, there seems to be a lot of choices on the Blue Aran website much smaller than the chunky looking crossover in your enclosure? what difference would choosing a slightly smaller horn for the driver have on the sound?
i would prefer to, they're nice solid batteries but i measured it and its too thick to fit in the battery space, so far it looks like a flat pack (1 battery thick) of AA batteries is the only thing that will fit. if that doesn't work out im not sure what i'll be able to use instead. iv worked out that i can get my samsung smart phone in the gap with very little extra space, its a shame there doesn't seem to be a hardcase battery in AA battery pack size...thanks for the suggestion though :)
how do i find a properly matched crossover?how do i work out the minimum enclosure volume for 1 or 2 of those subs?why wouldn't you call the output music? am i missing something apart from crossovers?i thought those horns were midrange, they look far too big to be tweeters...i didn't include tweeters because i thought that 4 channels meant 4 speakers, can the amps take the addition of 2 tweeters somewhere?
i did find some horns marked as midrange and mid-high during google searches but they didn't look like something you could mount outside of an enclosure. i also found full range pa music speakers but they were listed as '100v line' (such as this: https://www.cybermarket.co.uk/shop/public-address/horn-speakers/it-400tw-2-way-100v-weatherproof-735260.html?gclid=CjwKEAiA9s_BBRCL3ZKWsfblgS8SJACbST7Doq_16fF3CN_QmLqHCsHeh4qJo1M48eDUL85_LW7GNhoCEIjw_wcB ) and as i need this setup to run off 12v batteries on a trailer i didn't think they would work
i don't drive so i don't have a car battery. The biggest 12v source i have is a bunch of 7ah sla batteries, would one of those be adequate for testing?
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That sounds like a pretty physically big battery to me, I have a 12v 7.2ah sla battery about the size of a house brick and that's too big to fit. That's why I was asking about power packs because I've seen some pretty small 5000mah and 8500mah packs. The Veho Pebble Explorer for example would be almost perfect if only it had a 12v out. Please point me in the direction of the batteries you're talking about if I'm wrong about the size though...
how high a capacity pack could I make with this method? and what type of battery (nimh, nicd, lithium etc) do I need for best performance? and is there an instructable or something for how to connect them into a pack?
would an RC 12v nimh battery pack like this be suitable: http://www.componentshop.co.uk/12v-2600mah-flat-5x2-aa-nimh-battery-pack.html ?
That's an interesting idea with using mobile batteries and i might try that in the future but for now i think i might try a lower capacity SLA (about 3.5ah) because at least i know they're fairly reliable and can survive a few accidental knocks. Thanks for making me think about SLA's, i wasn't aware i could get such small ones until i looked up the bigger ones again :)