araymbox

finally finished. was more work than I thought. I've redesigned the interface and written a C# Windows Service so it starts even if the user is not logged on yet. Thanks again for the idea.

aww man - I have the same feng shui issue with these hdmi displays. your solution is just perfect. already ordered all parts. thanks for sharing.

Try to install OMV 5 following this manual:https://forum.openmediavault.org/index.php/Thread/28789-Installing-OMV5-on-Raspberry-PI-s-Armbian-Supported-SBC-s/

Thanks.1.) You are right with the GPIO pins: 4 is 5V and 6 is ground. Make sure it's a 5V fan and not 12V or something. 2.) Yep. Double check the wiring. Unsolder the HDD data wires from the Pi and try to boot it w/o the HDDs - OMV will boot w/o HDDs. Hook up a display and see the the Pi is saying.

1. THIS project isn't plug'n'play - it involves soldering. If you want to plug some drives in a Pi - fine, do it. You don't have to use this if you don't like it. 2. If you want the footprint of a drive you don't have to use a case at all. Every case has some sort of wall-thickness which adds to the footprint. !irony onYes my poor fancy decisions - you'r so right: footprint of this case: 15x9cmfootprint of a 2.5" drive + USB2SATA: 12x7cm It's like - unusable - so much space wasted - I don't know where to place this massively huge device. !irony off4. You are comparing this project - see the parts list and use these prices.1x Raspberry Pi 3 -> $351x micro SD Card 16GB -> $61x Female Micro USB breakout board -> $12x SATA to USB adapter -> $162x 2.5" Hard drives ->...

1. THIS project isn't plug'n'play - it involves soldering. If you want to plug some drives in a Pi - fine, do it. You don't have to use this if you don't like it. 2. If you want the footprint of a drive you don't have to use a case at all. Every case has some sort of wall-thickness which adds to the footprint. !irony onYes my poor fancy decisions - you'r so right: footprint of this case: 15x9cmfootprint of a 2.5" drive + USB2SATA: 12x7cm It's like - unusable - so much space wasted - I don't know where to place this massively huge device. !irony off4. You are comparing this project - see the parts list and use these prices.1x Raspberry Pi 3 -> $351x micro SD Card 16GB -> $61x Female Micro USB breakout board -> $12x SATA to USB adapter -> $162x 2.5" Hard drives -> $100 ($50 for one - as you said)1x Power supply -> $10SUM: $168Now go and find a TWO BAY (since this project has two bays) commercial NAS with TWO included drives. You won't find any if you don't look at eBay or craigslist or steal one. 5. Read again what I said and try to understand. You can do it. It's stupid and takes forever but technically it's possible. If it takes to long FOR YOU go buy a multipath gigabit fibre channel raid10 san. You don't have to make this project - nobody is forcing you. If you don't like the case and the performance why do you even comment? Do you also talk to random people telling them you don't like the clothes they're wearing?

Yeah sure - why not.

You could try the owncloud plugin. Owncloud is like dropbox but on you own storage.https://www.openmediavault.org/?p=1124

I'm all for constructive criticism - but that's a quite one-sided personal view. 1. It is "easy to build" - it's not an "easy to plug'n'play" project. Plug in the cables and that whole thing is 4cm longer and you lose the easy access to the remaining USB ports. 2. "Functional design" is about functionality. I could've made the case 100x100x100cm and throw the parts inside - it would still be a "design". The current design is nearly the footprint of a disk. Discussions about designs are kind of pointless - it's like discussions about your favourite colour. 3. What is that "very hot"? Too hot to touch? Too hot to operate? Both drives show no issues so far. SMART values are fine. 4. "The total cost of the project will almost hit the pr...

I'm all for constructive criticism - but that's a quite one-sided personal view. 1. It is "easy to build" - it's not an "easy to plug'n'play" project. Plug in the cables and that whole thing is 4cm longer and you lose the easy access to the remaining USB ports. 2. "Functional design" is about functionality. I could've made the case 100x100x100cm and throw the parts inside - it would still be a "design". The current design is nearly the footprint of a disk. Discussions about designs are kind of pointless - it's like discussions about your favourite colour. 3. What is that "very hot"? Too hot to touch? Too hot to operate? Both drives show no issues so far. SMART values are fine. 4. "The total cost of the project will almost hit the price of an entry level commercial NAS" - lol ... wow. The cost of this project is around $160 INCL. two of your $50 drives. Please show me that "entry level commercial NAS" with two bays AND included drives. 5. "Transfer speeds around 20 Mb/s or less" - So? Does it store data? Yes. Does it transfer data? Yes. Can you store your photos and documents on it? Sure. Can I use it to store and process 8k raw video footage on it. You could - very slowly. It's fine if it meets your requirement. Someone who needs performance won't use a Raspberry Pi.

I'm all for constructive criticism - but that's a quite one-sided personal view. 1. It is "easy to build" - it's not an "easy to plug'n'play" project. Plug in the cables and that whole thing is 4cm longer and you lose the easy access to the remaining USB ports.

That's quite a one sided personal view. 1. It is "easy to build" - it's not an "easy to plug'n'play" project. Plug in the cables and that whole thing is 4cm longer and you lose the easy access to the remaining USB ports. 2. "Functional design" is about functionality. I could've made the case 100x100x100cm and throw the parts inside - it would still be a "design". The current design is nearly the footprint of a disk. Discussions about designs are kinda pointless - it's like discussions about you favourite color. 3. What is that "very hot"? Too hot to touch? Too hot to operate? Both drives show no issues so far. SMART values are fine. 4. "The total cost of the project will almost hit the price of an entry level commercial NAS" - ...

That's quite a one sided personal view. 1. It is "easy to build" - it's not an "easy to plug'n'play" project. Plug in the cables and that whole thing is 4cm longer and you lose the easy access to the remaining USB ports. 2. "Functional design" is about functionality. I could've made the case 100x100x100cm and throw the parts inside - it would still be a "design". The current design is nearly the footprint of a disk. Discussions about designs are kinda pointless - it's like discussions about you favourite color. 3. What is that "very hot"? Too hot to touch? Too hot to operate? Both drives show no issues so far. SMART values are fine. 4. "The total cost of the project will almost hit the price of an entry level commercial NAS" - lol ... wow. The cost of this project is around $160 INCL. two of your $50 drives. Please show me that "entry level commercial NAS" with two bays AND included drives. 5. "Transfer speeds around 20 Mb/s or less" - So? Does it store data? Yes. Does it transfer data? Yes. Can you store your photos and documents on it? Sure. Can I use it to store and process 8k raw video footage on it. You could - very slowly. It's fine if it meets your requirement. Someone who needs performance won't use a Raspberry Pi.

That's quite a one sided personal view. 1. It is "easy to build" - it's not an "easy to plug'n'play" project. Plug in the cables and that whole thing is 4cm longer and you lose the easy access to the remaining USB ports. 2. "Functional design" is about functionality. I could've made the case 100x100x100cm and throw the parts inside - it would still be a "design". The current design is nearly the footprint of a disk. Discussions about designs are kinda pointless - it's like discussions about you favourite color. 3. What is that "very hot"? Too hot to touch? Too hot to operate? Both drives show no issues so far. SMART values are fine. 4. "The total cost of the project will almost hit the price of an entry level commercial NAS" - ...

That's quite a one sided personal view. 1. It is "easy to build" - it's not an "easy to plug'n'play" project. Plug in the cables and that whole thing is 4cm longer and you lose the easy access to the remaining USB ports. 2. "Functional design" is about functionality. I could've made the case 100x100x100cm and throw the parts inside - it would still be a "design". The current design is nearly the footprint of a disk. Discussions about designs are kinda pointless - it's like discussions about you favourite color. 3. What is that "very hot"? Too hot to touch? Too hot to operate? Both drives show no issues so far. SMART values are fine. 4. "The total cost of the project will almost hit the price of an entry level commercial NAS" - lol ... wow. The cost of this project is around $160 INCL. two of your $50 drives. Please show me that "entry level commercial NAS" with two bays AND included drives. 5. "Transfer speeds around 20 Mb/s or less" - So? Does it store data? Yes. Does it transfer data? Yes. Can you store your photos and documents on it? Sure. Can I use it to store and process 8k raw video footage on it. You could - very slowly. It's fine if it meets your requirement. Someone who needs performance won't use a Raspberry Pi.

Did you wipe the disks as described in Step 15?

Look at the very last picture.

Post your makes here when you're done

Thanks. 1. It's too slow for what? It's not a high-end enterprise solution. It's fast enough to backup pictures on it. Even watch HD movies from it. 2. Most of the time the system does not process anything (like I said, it's not high-end). The HDDs spin at 5400rpm and do not produce any heat. 3. The wires which came with the adapters were not shielded or even twisted. It's pretty much the same. Or even better since the wires are shorter.

*wink* :D

Sorry about the second question. You can define power saving and a spindown time for when the drives have nothing to do.

Temps should not be a problem. These are slow spinning laptop drives. When you look inside a laptop you'll see that they have even less space in there. Nevertheless I've also uploaded a case front with a mount for a 40mm fan:https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3878669

Not that static nor toasty - the fan blows air inside. The air goes through the gaps between the disks and the pi and leave through the vent holes on the back

I don't really understand your question. I've soldered the SATA-USB directly to the Pi to save space and power the SATA-USB from external and not from the Pi.

See the thingiverse page - there's a version for Pi 4. Sure RAID level 1 is not a backup but it reduces the single points of failure in this system.

Thank you very much :)

Or a linked table of content :) Thank you

first of all thanks for the inspiration.I've remixed you mount because of Prusas new 45deg fan shroud design:https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3192394

yes, you can also use a arduino (like I did on the GamePi Zero) - make sure you grab one with enough pins.why do you not use the electronics I mentioned on thingiverse? the one from ebay does not deliver enough current (1A).

use your google skills. there are 100s of other sites like e.p. (and no - I won't mention any).

nope - it's not redundant. I am using the pi's audio output but the signal is not amplified. it's enough for headphones but not for speakers.

like you said - a different board. check the comments - some people used a dc-dc booster to power the display.

thanks. would be awesome to see your finished version.

there you go:https://github.com/RetroPie/RetroPie-Setup/wiki/RetroArch-Configuration#default-joypad-hotkeys

yes, yes and yes.

Found in the interwebs:I use button combinations to control the system volume. If I hold Select+Up the volume increases, Select+Down it decreases, and Select+Left will mute. I have my physical speakers set at around 75% inside my arcade and I never actually change that. The hotkey combinations are defined in retroarch.cfg and mine looks something like this:input_enable_hotkey_btn = 8 #Selectinput_volume_up_axis = +1 #Up on Joystickinput_volume_down_axis = -1 #Down on Joystickinput_audio_mute_axis = +0 #Left on Joystick

the glue will insulate the pins just fine.

did you check the controls with a PC as mentioned in step 20 "Testing the controls (optional)"?

totally correct

speakers: the same as used in the GamePi Zeroamp: the same as used in the GamePi 2

no idea - never had the chance to see if all electronics would fit.

you can additionally adjust the volume within the retropie configuration. setting it to 80% should be fine.

they are pushed in from the outside. you can use a file to clean and widen the hole

thanks a lot.

try adding the line disable_audio_dither=1 to /boot/config.txt

btw. could you please add your finished device to the SHARE section of this page.

if you mean the pictures of the systems: no. they appear if roms for the systems are found

RetroPie page says DS games are supported:https://github.com/RetroPie/RetroPie-Setup/wiki/Supported-Systems

there are other instructables describing how to fit a RasPi Zero into a gameboy case.

some people reported faulty usb hubs. see if you find another one to test.

Check if the display is operating properly with a 5V power source:- power the display with a different powersource than the rest of the system, e.g. a second powerbank or a 5V smartphone charger.- connect the signal and ground wires to the pi- power on the display- power on the gamepi- check if there are still problems

Check if the display is operating properly with a 5V power source:- power the display with a different powersource than the rest of the system, e.g. a second powerbank or a 5V smartphone charger.- connect the signal and ground wires to the pi- power on the display- power on the gamepi- check if there are still problems

no labels needed. these switches are pretty easy to connect.this picture should help to understand how they work. when the button is pressed the ground and the signal line are shorted and that's basically the signal to the pi to do something.

I never said cutting off power with the switch is a proper way to turn off the device. I also power it off just like you said - shutdown the raspi from the retropie menu and then use the switch to cut the power from all other components. If you want to implement a better solution you can add a tactile switch to a unused gpio pin of the pi. when it's pressed the pi shutsdown. after the shutdown a transistor cuts off the power from the rest of the system.

- buttons L1 and R1 on the shoulders of the case- better button ducts - universal LiPo PCB/battery combo- stereo speakers- speakers in the front- minor improvements for better 3D printing

the display features a build in voltage regulator. it works fine with 5V or 12V.

holy cow. at least the hot glue fits the filament color :D Check out the updated version of this GamePi. It should cover some of your improvements. what's wrong with the keymapping btw.?

Check out the updated version of this GamePi. it's designed for separate powerbank-electronics and batteries (link in thingiverse description)

It's described in step 7.https://www.instructables.com/id/Arduino-LeonardoMicroATMega32u4-As-GamepadGame-Con/

1) Nope. The Arduion Pro Mini does a good job.2) As much as the size of your micro SD card. (thousands of games on a 64 GB card )3) Nope. All walls have are 4mm thick. 4) It fits in the butt-pocket of some jeans. Size is: 20cm x 8cm x 3cm5) As ergonomic as a thicker SNES controller (or a PSP). It's OK I guess.

finished the updated version:https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2911881

Had no problems with my controller. Try swapping the controller data wires (withe and green).

well, no one's gonna stop you from re-configuring the setup - go for it.

it's not overclocked. it's getting warm but nothing near dangerous.

I've no experience with video via bluetooth. You should try it.

This article describes how it can be done.

the size of case is 20cm x 9cm

I did not measure the battery life time yet. My other device runs 4.5 hours on one charge - but it has a Raspberry Pi 3 build it. This one here runs a Raspberry Pi Zero which draws less current - so I think it should run around 6 hours on one charge.

1. The battery life is described in the third sentence. 2. You won't. But you can calculate it: - the capacity of the battery is 1350 mAh. - the charger delivers a charge current of 1000 mA. So technically it takes around 1.5 hours to charge it. But the charger won't constantly charge the battery with 1000mA. Just let it charge for 2 hours and it should be fine.

Thank you. To your questions:1.) The USB cable of the controller was cut and the single wires were directly soldered to the USB connector of the Pi (or to the test pads - for better handling). So it's like connecting the Controller to the Pi via USB -- but skipping the long cable and the USB jack. 2.) That was a typo. It should be "4. Remove the multimeter." I've corrected it. 3.) Yes, it's possible. This question was already asked and answered. Look into the commentens for the question of "Mr Joshua" 18 days ago. You could also connect further controllers via bluetooth.

- make sure all audio wires are kept as short as possible- make sure all points are soldered correctly- make sure you do not set audio to 100% within emulationstation (80% should be enough)- try setting disable_audio_dither=1 in the config.txt

Yes, you're right about the slid-in nuts. I used M3s squared nuts. It's up to you using washers - I didn't need them.

working on it

I've updated the link. M3x12 is too short. M3x16 should work.

That's the battery I'm using.

Thank you for the vote.The performance depends on what emulators you want to use. I tried some games on N64 and PS1 - they didn't performed that well. Older system like NES, SNES, some Segas works just fine.

there you go:

I'm working on a revision of the GamePi 2 (ducts, shoulder buttons, new battery layout, etc.). it's quite low on my todo list - so no ETA yet.

I skipped the volume control wheel because you can control it within emulation station and use button shortcuts (and there wasn't much space left). If you want to add one you should check Step 10 of my other instructable on the bigger GamePi 2.

@Millionaar: that's the way I did it too.

sure. if you're interested PM me.