artemff

Hi and thanks for your comment. Yes, I thought about it as well and it will definitely work. I also tried a setup with all 4 pots mounted on the same side of PCB and a flashlight moving up and down. But, the idea of this very setup was to have as little dependence on the electric contact as possible. Another thing to keep in mind is that it's better to have a high-output light source rather than a dimmed one because of the beginning and the end of the S-curves, which will be closer to 0 and 100%, respectively, in the case of a bright light.

in our case, nobody was injured, but the car lost two tires with two rims on the right hand side and the left hand side doors were quite damaged. It's interesting that the guy barely noticed what happened (he was in a big car with tinted glasses). Fortunately, some good guy who saw the accident intercepted him on the next traffic light. Otherwise, there were high chances to follow your way because we didn't use dashcam those days. Your story also reminded me the situation when another guy jumped from a standing lane right in front of me - I barely escaped the collision and got only a minor dent on my fender. The decceleration was so rapid that the gas was pushed to the front wall of the gas tank (that's my explanation) and the car stalled. The guy hesitated for a moment and then disappear…

in our case, nobody was injured, but the car lost two tires with two rims on the right hand side and the left hand side doors were quite damaged. It's interesting that the guy barely noticed what happened (he was in a big car with tinted glasses). Fortunately, some good guy who saw the accident intercepted him on the next traffic light. Otherwise, there were high chances to follow your way because we didn't use dashcam those days. Your story also reminded me the situation when another guy jumped from a standing lane right in front of me - I barely escaped the collision and got only a minor dent on my fender. The decceleration was so rapid that the gas was pushed to the front wall of the gas tank (that's my explanation) and the car stalled. The guy hesitated for a moment and then disappeared from the scene - I wish I had a dashcam to report this hit and run accident.

First of all, great job, congratulations! I use to repair our cars myself and I did some bodywork as well as the repainting of the whole car, so I know what it takes to get from the first to last picture :) I have a couple of questions, though - I assume that it was "no hit, but run accident" without any videoproof, wasn't it? It's a pity because you were left on your own with all damages and repairs. My wife's car was once pushed from the road and it was the guy's insurance, which paid for all the repairs. It makes sense to use a dash cam all the time unles the potential fine for their usage in your country is higher than the potential loss (in some countries, the court can accept the footage as a proof, but the owner has to pay fine for non-authorised filming, check your local…

First of all, great job, congratulations! I use to repair our cars myself and I did some bodywork as well as the repainting of the whole car, so I know what it takes to get from the first to last picture :) I have a couple of questions, though - I assume that it was "no hit, but run accident" without any videoproof, wasn't it? It's a pity because you were left on your own with all damages and repairs. My wife's car was once pushed from the road and it was the guy's insurance, which paid for all the repairs. It makes sense to use a dash cam all the time unles the potential fine for their usage in your country is higher than the potential loss (in some countries, the court can accept the footage as a proof, but the owner has to pay fine for non-authorised filming, check your local rules).Second, I'm not sure how the things are in your country/county, but in some countries the structural repairs made outside the professional bodyshop can play against you in the insurance dispute (I sincerely hope that this will not be the case, but forewarned is forearmed).

yes, this totally makes sense, thanks.

Hello and sorry for late reply, I was overloaded with a number of things :)Regarding your case - I have two possible explanations:1) just to be on a safe side - are you sure that everything is assembled with all contacts/connectors/switches doing their job properly?2) may be this projector is smarter than mine and uses some fuse of a known resistance. It's difficult to guess the value, but I would say that it should be on the order of ohms or tens of ohms. In the old Chevys one used this trick as an additional security feature in the ignition key.If nothing helps, I would search for the circuit diagram, attach the scope to the (open) fuse contacts and check the request coming from the projector - is it some pulse at the beginning or a constant voltage or something else.

Hello, I would say that this is a case for fooling the projector if everything works OK during these first five minutes. However, it's difficult to say with the information I have whether it is a real problem or just a false alarm. It is the former, one has to check what are possible consequences of using the projector with failing lamp PSU.If the power supply unit sends a false alarm flag to the main board then one can try to bypass this - it's highly recommended to find a curcuit diagram and check a corresponding part. If it's a simple logical "1" or "0" then the fooling is straightforward.Switching to an alternative light source is an option, but one has to find the way to tell the main board that PSU is up and running.

Hello, I would say that this is a case for fooling the projector if everything works OK during these first five minutes. However, it's difficult to say with the information I have whether it is a real problem or just a false alarm. If it is the former, one has to check what are possible consequences of using the projector with failing lamp PSU.If the power supply unit sends a false alarm flag to the main board then one can try to bypass this - it's highly recommended to find a curcuit diagram and check a corresponding part. If it's a simple logical "1" or "0" then the fooling is straightforward.Switching to an alternative light source is an option, but one has to find the way to tell the main board that PSU is up and running.

congrats! If I understand correctly, you have identified the control wire on the motherboard's side and put the right signal there to make it think that the PSU works correctly, right? As for the DIY light sources - it's clear that today these should be LED-based, but I never built them myself, so I can't give the specs. There are several good instructables on this topic here, though.

hi, is it a lamp power supply board or something else? The image is quite fuzzy, I don't see what is written. In any case, start with searching for the schematics - you will see clearly what leaves the main board and what kind of return signal it receives from the PSU. If you still don't manage to find it, then make hi-res photos of this module from both sides and put here.

did you play with wires coming to the lamp itself? If yes then it shouldn't have helped - the power supply won't send the "OK" signal to the main board since it runs all the "ignition" tests. How many wires connect the lamp's power supply with the main board?I don't know this particular model, but I would say that there should be ground, +VCC, one signal wire to the PSU and one signal wire from the PSU = at least four. I hope it doesn't use some sort of serial bus since emulating the protocol is out of the question in our case. Can you take a picture of the lamp's PSU from both sides of the board and send it?(I would also search for the circuit diagram for this very model)

start with searching for the circuit diagram - then it'll be clearer which wires come to the lamp and how the protection is organized. At the first glance I would say that one has still track the wires from the lamp's power supply unit to the mainboard. In any case, you'll remove the PSU since you don't want to have high voltages without load in your projector.