artemff

yes, this totally makes sense, thanks.

Hello and sorry for late reply, I was overloaded with a number of things :)Regarding your case - I have two possible explanations:1) just to be on a safe side - are you sure that everything is assembled with all contacts/connectors/switches doing their job properly?2) may be this projector is smarter than mine and uses some fuse of a known resistance. It's difficult to guess the value, but I would say that it should be on the order of ohms or tens of ohms. In the old Chevys one used this trick as an additional security feature in the ignition key.If nothing helps, I would search for the circuit diagram, attach the scope to the (open) fuse contacts and check the request coming from the projector - is it some pulse at the beginning or a constant voltage or something else.

Hello, I would say that this is a case for fooling the projector if everything works OK during these first five minutes. However, it's difficult to say with the information I have whether it is a real problem or just a false alarm. It is the former, one has to check what are possible consequences of using the projector with failing lamp PSU.If the power supply unit sends a false alarm flag to the main board then one can try to bypass this - it's highly recommended to find a curcuit diagram and check a corresponding part. If it's a simple logical "1" or "0" then the fooling is straightforward.Switching to an alternative light source is an option, but one has to find the way to tell the main board that PSU is up and running.

Hello, I would say that this is a case for fooling the projector if everything works OK during these first five minutes. However, it's difficult to say with the information I have whether it is a real problem or just a false alarm. If it is the former, one has to check what are possible consequences of using the projector with failing lamp PSU.If the power supply unit sends a false alarm flag to the main board then one can try to bypass this - it's highly recommended to find a curcuit diagram and check a corresponding part. If it's a simple logical "1" or "0" then the fooling is straightforward.Switching to an alternative light source is an option, but one has to find the way to tell the main board that PSU is up and running.

congrats! If I understand correctly, you have identified the control wire on the motherboard's side and put the right signal there to make it think that the PSU works correctly, right? As for the DIY light sources - it's clear that today these should be LED-based, but I never built them myself, so I can't give the specs. There are several good instructables on this topic here, though.

hi, is it a lamp power supply board or something else? The image is quite fuzzy, I don't see what is written. In any case, start with searching for the schematics - you will see clearly what leaves the main board and what kind of return signal it receives from the PSU. If you still don't manage to find it, then make hi-res photos of this module from both sides and put here.

did you play with wires coming to the lamp itself? If yes then it shouldn't have helped - the power supply won't send the "OK" signal to the main board since it runs all the "ignition" tests. How many wires connect the lamp's power supply with the main board?I don't know this particular model, but I would say that there should be ground, +VCC, one signal wire to the PSU and one signal wire from the PSU = at least four. I hope it doesn't use some sort of serial bus since emulating the protocol is out of the question in our case. Can you take a picture of the lamp's PSU from both sides of the board and send it?(I would also search for the circuit diagram for this very model)

start with searching for the circuit diagram - then it'll be clearer which wires come to the lamp and how the protection is organized. At the first glance I would say that one has still track the wires from the lamp's power supply unit to the mainboard. In any case, you'll remove the PSU since you don't want to have high voltages without load in your projector.