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  • batvette commented on Rzooq's instructable Oil FIlter Cutter

    Hopefully this will enable more people to get on youtube and cut new oil filters apart then use their useless unscientific observations to declare how lousy fram oil filters are.You know the ones. That said I bought my first Wix filter the other day, it looks impressive. If only the oil cared.

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  • batvette commented on tomatoskins's instructable Lathe Buffing System

    This probably works acceptably well with buffing wheels because of their low mass. A guy I used to work for did a similar setup with 6 wheels on about 3' of rod driven by a motor on a bench. IIRC it was two each grinding, wire and cloth buff wheels. A pillow block on each end and one in the middle.What a nightmare. He could never get them balanced and when he turned it on the bench would walk across the shop floor. Then after bolting that down anything you put on the bench walked off it. And made such a racket nobody wanted to use it. Eventually he gave up and there it sat on the bench, a monument to his failed ingenuity.

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  • One issue I see is that on a lot of bikes, particularly mountain bikes, resting the bike upside down on bars and seat will damage or set out of whack the derailleur and brake controls. So watch those pricey XTR components!Secondly you may have also mentioned pedal removal. Makes the whole package a lot slimmer especially with multiple bikes. Its very fast if you have a cordless impact with the right size hex socket. Just remember right pedal is regular thread and left is reverse threaded.Lastly if you use messy grease or oil as chain lube you might want to attach the chain to the frame with a ziplock bag and a few zip ties or some tape. Save your upholstery or carpet a lot of agony. Myself I use wax based lube like white lightning so its not too messy.When you put it together use a torqu…

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    One issue I see is that on a lot of bikes, particularly mountain bikes, resting the bike upside down on bars and seat will damage or set out of whack the derailleur and brake controls. So watch those pricey XTR components!Secondly you may have also mentioned pedal removal. Makes the whole package a lot slimmer especially with multiple bikes. Its very fast if you have a cordless impact with the right size hex socket. Just remember right pedal is regular thread and left is reverse threaded.Lastly if you use messy grease or oil as chain lube you might want to attach the chain to the frame with a ziplock bag and a few zip ties or some tape. Save your upholstery or carpet a lot of agony. Myself I use wax based lube like white lightning so its not too messy.When you put it together use a torque wrench if called for. You would be surprised how loose a lot of critical parts can get. In the US harbor freight sells a 1/4" drive clicker for around $15 on sale. If you have a carbon fiber bike its a must. You can find proper values on the mfrs sites or rough values at park tools site.

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  • Thats not a crescent wrench, that is a double open ended wrench you are showing.https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Adjustable_spannerFWIW no crescent wrench I have seen is narrow enough to fit on a pedal.

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  • As a child in school I was always fascinated by a motorizef hanging model of our solar system in one of the classrooms. Had no idea how complex the mechanism might be. Turns our swiss watchmaker ulysse nardin had made one in a wristwatch, windup, all controlled with a single knob! Price when you could get them was in the six figures IIRC.https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/a-ulysse-nardin-tellurium-johannes-kepler-one-of-the-three-original-trilogy-of-time-watches-from-the

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  • batvette commented on 4DIYers's instructable Why I Wear Gloves

    I havent had much luck with latex or nitrile gloves, just too thin. Mechanix type gloves have no tactile feedback at all. A good compromise for me has been the pvc coated nylon gloves. I like the ones harbor freight sells for $1.99 on sale. If they are tight (i buy the medium size even though the large would be my normal size.

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  • Method #6...air hammer. Its not a rotary tool so you only need about 4-6 cfm.

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  • I built a sandblast box similar to this some years ago. Thin plywood on the outside, painted red then covered with fiberglass epoxy resin. Inside lined with aluminum sheet. I lived at the beach at the time and a steel store bought one would have rusted quickly.It worked well though one issue I fought with was all the media coming out the edges of the lid. The box needed a way to equalize the pressure with outside air but filter it. Ended up with a squirrel cage blower with a filter on it.

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  • Should be 12vdc and is usually blue. When using this limit the load to one component or a couple of hundred ma especially if its continuous. Any more use it to switch a relay instead. Or best use a DEI remote power adaptor. No turn on pops. Use it to turn on 2-3 amps and an antenna etc easy way to fry the head unit.

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  • Dont know if that reflecting dish is effective or even beneficial at all. It was designed to work on completely different frequencies propagated in a completely different manner.I know this was just a casual fun project but there is a lot of science that goes into designing a proper antenna, starting with making the metal elements of the antenna the correct size for the wavelength you are trying to receive.

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  • Yeah what he describes simply grinds an angle across the bit face. Sounds easy because it is but it doesnt leave a bit that makes holes.

    Okay this is the same DD i have.https://goo.gl/images/eTQ5aKYou see the black round apparatus with the three detent positions on the left each having a relief image indicating intended face angle? This is the hole where you insert the chuck and adjust the indexing. I found that for many bits I could not get proper indexing with their three detent positions and had to force it further counterclockwise- at least one clock position past their bottom detent.Hope this helps.

    The entry level DDs do suck. However I have the old style 500 series which sold for about $120. At least half of the bits you attempt to sharpen have a twist rate that is incompatible with its indexing device so yeah results were dismal on those. For those that indexed properly (for instance a set by snap on)the results are nothing short of spectacular and I defy anyone to tell them apart from a factory grind.So you find the brands whose twist rate works and only sharpen those and the DD is a godsend.

    This is the most complete tutorial I have seen on this subject yet. Good job.That said this is a skill beyond the reach of those who cannot have it taught to them in person and do not keep it honed with about an hour a week practice in a professional environment.Dont believe me? Offer the challenge I have for anyone who say they used to be a machinist and can sharpen drills... hand them a dull bit.Of the dozens I have offered this to about half demurred, saying they didnt own a bench grinder. Of the other half, or when the challenge was in my home workshop in front of my bench grinder AND benchtop belt sander, not one could produce a bit which would drill even pine wood.If the bit had the right twist rate I would then whip out my DD500 and school them on sharpening bits humbly for us amat…

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    This is the most complete tutorial I have seen on this subject yet. Good job.That said this is a skill beyond the reach of those who cannot have it taught to them in person and do not keep it honed with about an hour a week practice in a professional environment.Dont believe me? Offer the challenge I have for anyone who say they used to be a machinist and can sharpen drills... hand them a dull bit.Of the dozens I have offered this to about half demurred, saying they didnt own a bench grinder. Of the other half, or when the challenge was in my home workshop in front of my bench grinder AND benchtop belt sander, not one could produce a bit which would drill even pine wood.If the bit had the right twist rate I would then whip out my DD500 and school them on sharpening bits humbly for us amateurs.The moral of this is to heap accolades on those who really can do this, and mock those who say they can and its easy- but likely cannot. Before you learn to sharpen bits, try learning how to drill properly in various materials and keep that bit cold. You may never need to learn to sharpen.

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  • Okay after watching the full video I must say your work and skills are superb. Nice chop saw too!I gotta ask, at no point do I see you working from a blueprint or drawings nor making measurements with any kind of anal precision. Are you pretty much winging it as you go along with a vision in your head, with only rudimentary dimensions marked with a ruler or tape as needed? How often do you make mistakes and improvise so the finished product is better than you first imagined?Just curious. Every time I went into a project with detailed plans and diagrams the results were awful. Nothing seemed to match up. However going into it with a vision, a steel ruler and a willingness to improvise as I went along had much better results for me. I just had to convince my friends who ultimately judged…

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    Okay after watching the full video I must say your work and skills are superb. Nice chop saw too!I gotta ask, at no point do I see you working from a blueprint or drawings nor making measurements with any kind of anal precision. Are you pretty much winging it as you go along with a vision in your head, with only rudimentary dimensions marked with a ruler or tape as needed? How often do you make mistakes and improvise so the finished product is better than you first imagined?Just curious. Every time I went into a project with detailed plans and diagrams the results were awful. Nothing seemed to match up. However going into it with a vision, a steel ruler and a willingness to improvise as I went along had much better results for me. I just had to convince my friends who ultimately judged my work that "I meant to do that".

    Oooh... my hero, made his own brake. I did this some years ago using 3/16 angle iron and heavy duty continuous hinge. Even though it did complete the project it was constructed for I knew it wasnt right. Didnt leave a margin for tbe offset required for the bend, you had to shift the work several times to get 90 degree bend and even then the bend was a very soft and imprecise radius. It was however strong enough to bend 12guage stainless 3ft wide with ease.Dont know if I could call it a failure or not but I had to drill so many holes in tbe 3/16 steel and hinge plate I had to design and construct a foot powered pump mounted to my milwaukee magnum drill for cutting fluid. Hmm... make a tool... to make a tool... I guess as long as you finish the original project its all good.Anyway goo…

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    Oooh... my hero, made his own brake. I did this some years ago using 3/16 angle iron and heavy duty continuous hinge. Even though it did complete the project it was constructed for I knew it wasnt right. Didnt leave a margin for tbe offset required for the bend, you had to shift the work several times to get 90 degree bend and even then the bend was a very soft and imprecise radius. It was however strong enough to bend 12guage stainless 3ft wide with ease.Dont know if I could call it a failure or not but I had to drill so many holes in tbe 3/16 steel and hinge plate I had to design and construct a foot powered pump mounted to my milwaukee magnum drill for cutting fluid. Hmm... make a tool... to make a tool... I guess as long as you finish the original project its all good.Anyway good job on yours.

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  • It helps to start with decent corner clamps. Anyone contemplating such a purchase inspect the clamping faces for true 90 angles. I bought 4 clamps from that orange home improvement store some years ago, threw them in my toolbox and forgot about them. When I went to use them months later and too late to return I realized the clamping faces had an unexplainable 5-7 degree taper leaving the work angled inward as you clamped it. I had another pair of high quality us made clamps without this so it was obviously shoddy design by the chinese clonemaker.A few hours with a flat hand file and they were usable but never have really been straight. Live and learn.

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  • Maybe Im not getting something here... doesnt your anvil as shown in the images already have a hole that the unaltered drill press clamp can mount to? Its not clear from the images that that is a through hole but if it isnt you could certainly make it so.Whether I find this instructable useful or not doesnt matter, as it does enlightened the uninformed about the vise-grip drill press clamps. It is probably one of the most useful hold down tools you can own. I have a mini mill drill machine and with a few spacers and washers find there is nothing you cant safely clamp down in seconds. I spent the few bucks more and popped for the genuine vise grip version think it was about $28?. Depending on brand maybe the cheapos might be adequate but this is probably one type of tool where cutting co…

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    Maybe Im not getting something here... doesnt your anvil as shown in the images already have a hole that the unaltered drill press clamp can mount to? Its not clear from the images that that is a through hole but if it isnt you could certainly make it so.Whether I find this instructable useful or not doesnt matter, as it does enlightened the uninformed about the vise-grip drill press clamps. It is probably one of the most useful hold down tools you can own. I have a mini mill drill machine and with a few spacers and washers find there is nothing you cant safely clamp down in seconds. I spent the few bucks more and popped for the genuine vise grip version think it was about $28?. Depending on brand maybe the cheapos might be adequate but this is probably one type of tool where cutting corners is unwise. Vise-grips have a unique design, instead of being drop forged like normal pliers they use a high strength steel sheet and form it. (You as a blacksmith know a lot more than I about that) This is probably necessary because of the high leverage forces placed upon its frame by its compound action as well as allow some flex in the frame for many cycles without fatigue cracking but always return to original shape. Most of the Chinese vise grip clones I have seen had distorted frames after even limited use, making it difficult to precisely adjust with the tension knob. (I have genuine vise grips in the large and small size, as well as the drill press clamp, and needle nose in the straight and bent. The needle nose ones may be the best lifesavers of all of them. My large (10r?) pair must be 20 years old now and despite a lot of abuse still function well. I did pick up a weird pair of long reach clones harbor freight had on sale a couple of years ago. https://m.harborfreight.com/15-inch-long-reach-locking-pliers-97609.html?utm_referrer=direct%2Fnot%20providedCant speak for their durability only used them once so far.

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  • I know snarky critical comments are frowned upon here but lets get real. Anyone who needs this to be taught to them doesnt own a drill press and shouldnt be allowed anywhere near one.

    He does cover that in step 2. Its a good point worth reinforcing however.

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  • Harbor Freight used to sell a similar contraption. I picked one up when they were on sale for about $8. Handy but there were a few issues. One is its a lot harder than you think to get the vertical and horizontal planes exactly at 90 degrees and you do want them exact or you may as well cut free hand. The other is that as the cutoff wheels wear down it severely limited cut depth. For infrequent use this is a viable option, if you use it a lot then a proper chop saw becomes more practical for precision and the cost of consumables. The big discs cut more for less.All that said an angle grinder is probably the most useful tool you can own, making quick work of everyday tasks like stealing bicycles or deskinning a live cat. Just kidding..

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  • Your neighbors must love the sawdust on their cars.

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  • This is true but first off lithium batteries dont explode. They can catch fire. Nicads explode.Secondly the dewalt charger will probably catch a damaged battery and not charge it. The fire danger for lithium batteries that overdischarge is on the next cycle.So the rational warning is youre gonna damage your battery if you run it too long.

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  • As anything with refrigeration will produce condensation and mdf/particle board does not tolerate moisture well, anyone duplicating this build would be well served to spend a couple of extra bucks and make that base out of plywood.

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  • batvette commented on WarriorStudio's instructable Van Privacy Inserts

    Instead of tape how about spray adhesive.

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  • As someone else suggested this is illegal in many or most states. California prohibits any reflective tint.

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  • Right choice of lube but there is a much better way. Leave the bike upright. Shift the derailleurs until both front and rear are on the smallest sprockets. Now use a zip tie to tie off the jockey wheel cage to the frame. This leaves a large part of the chain hanging slack. Now take a ziplock or other heavy plastic bag and squirt the wax directly into the bag and run the chain through it. This fully immerses the chain in lube but with the least waste.

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  • in most jurisdictions in the US there are no restrictions on the use of such lights on streets and highway, within common sense. (i.e; use spot not flood pattern, aimed below 25", and not above the output of equivilent DOT approved lighting.) I have no problems riding with a lighting system with 5 cree xm-ls, that is probably consistent with the light in this instructible.IIRC Germany however does have strict regulations regarding dispersion patterns and output and other countries probably do as well.All that said there is a limit to how much light to take on the street OR trail before you become offensive to others and they do not want to ask you to go on group rides any more! (Particularly with helmet mount)

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  • You do not need to tin wire you are splicing together in fact it makes the joints as you show much more difficult. Also one can do these with an open flame like a lighter or torch in a pinch. Its not the preferred mervlb

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  • batvette commented on Triclaw's instructable Mask made form Real Skin

    You could save a lot of trouble and just wear a pig snout, available at most good pet stores.

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  • I thought everyone knew this already... it works on most tire/rim combinations, not all. (My shimano XTRs, the ones they made about 10 years ago with the spoke adjusters on the hub, would not mount conti gatorskins without levers.)However you don't focus on the one tip that makes this work: You've got to make sure the bead of the side opposite of the side you are prying off or on, falls into the deepest part of the valley of the rim. (Then of course you work that extra slack around if it doesnt do so by itself)Second that baby powder suggestion. Many tube mfrs put it on already, talc is a protectent of rubber and stops decay from petroleum products. Its a win-win application.

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  • I never had a problem finding someplace close to anywhere I have lived to put spare house keys in a bag and bury them. As for the car I get a spare cut and jb weld a rare earth magnet to it. Slap it virtually anywhere under the car, it won't fall off ever if the magnet is big enough.

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  • Should use an isolator on that second bank. Its like a relay, closes the circuit when the engine is running.

    Hope that 45w array is not of the harbor freight variety. Amorphous silicone, low output and service life.

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