bongodrummer

Hey Mndietz nice tip. For the insulation round the heat riser though I would certainly go for something a bit lighter like perlite which has less than half the mass, but a better insulative value. It could be good for a fixed installation though, where you never move the rocket stove...

Hey man, thanks for taking the time to writ this. Sound like you're really into the refactor mixing side of things. I must admit I didn't exactly follow your last message, but I think I get the idea... It's tricky without diagrams and the like. Have you thought of writing your own instructable, based on your experiences? If not you totally should - sounds like you have a load of good creative info..

Hi James. Thanks for the comment. I wasn't actually planning any refractory in the grill area for this project, I don't think it would be enough benefit to justify the extra work (also I have 5 junk radiators hanging about that I can replace the grill with if it ever burns through). For now I think adding refractory to that part (the grill) would only slow down the heat transfer... Where refractory would be good - though not necessary - is round the combustion chamber, where transmitting heat is the opposite of what we want. A thin layer of something on the inside would be ideal - I just don't know how to make it strong enough, nor how to stick such a thin layer to the inside metal face. Ideas?

Seamster, I love it! It was just yesterday that I was drilling a hole in something thinking, I really need this lower down to get my weight over it. I ended up getting a stool to stand on (which was as unstable and ridiculous as it sounds)... For other more fiddly, sideways forcing type jobs jobs its nice to have the vice good and high. Being able to move it round the shop is great too! I may have to put it on the project list... Did you consider making a wheeling attachment? Or do you just drag it about? Or use a sack-truck maybe? Thanks for sharing, B.

Hi Friend, sorry I missed this comment so am a little late replying. My experience ends at 47" bars I am afraid, and I have never had the problem you describe. You may want to comment on one of my vids of youtube - this one's popular https://goo.gl/X2Y6he - I have quite a knowledgeable audience there and hopefully someone will chime in with some advice. Having said that, are you sure it's the bar cutting bowed? On very wide boards the cupping that happens when one side dries faster than the other, can happen very quickly, or is more evident, as even a small moisture difference over such a large distance will be noticable... In my experience that cupping happens in a matter of hours (if that) when the suns out and one face is exposed....

Piece of cake. I just reach in with an old glove and scoop it out.....

Yes, I have A cup wheel shaped wire brush for the angle grinder, I used it a little bit but it seemed the wrong shape to get in there. I think your are right though - if I could have waited and used a pack like this https://goo.gl/m4bRiX they would have worked great.

Hey Charles, Thanks for this... It's an interesting idea.. It would present fabrication complications as the radiator itself isn't square, so rotation of one leaf would requires some jiggery pockery to fix up. It's an intriguing thought, though I must say the heat is well distributed as it is...

Hadronofhastor, not really got any refs for you off the top of my head sorry. There are lots of variables, especially including the surface area at combustion (which is essentially determined by the diameter of sticks you're feeding)... Because it is so variable, I think it is important to have adjustability, hence the door on the ash tube... In commercial combined heat and power burners, I believe they have oxygen sensors on the exhaust. Any O2 in the mix means too much air is being delivered, which cools down combustion. No O2 in there and they open the intakes until they start sensing a bit... I was tempted to add one to this https://youtu.be/0xTS3curk8I - my experimental workshop heater.

I don't wear them when welding...

HAHA. "speak chewi" love it! I'll work on my elocution ;)

Thanks :D

Thanks Greenbriel!

Looks amazing. I have some left over marble scraps too.... Ah well the project list gets a bit longer..

Thanks BBT4. I'm not clear on what you mean by the 'heating batteries' though?

Thanks Jerry! Appreciate that. MacGyver is a hero.

"workshopery" - my new favourite word! Thanks.

Awesome, let us know how it goes!

I bet you can! Remember that this 'able was a result of quite a few years of tinkering about and mucking things up. That and benifits form other people's experiences and teachings. It's just I'm mostly sharing the bits that worked so it probably seemed easier for me than it was ;)

Thanks for the encouragement throbscottle, means a lot to me :)

That's a work in progress my friend!

Interesting idea, thanks for sharing.

Thanks :)

I recon so. Even if you buy one, consider adding a heatsink or something to reduce the heat a bit.

I recon so. Even if you buy one, consider adding a heatsink or something to reduce the heat a bit.

hmm. That does sound quite extreme. How hot was the stove top? Sounds like you needed a bigger riser block maybe?

You're not alone with this problem. You might check out my solution here: https://www.instructables.com/id/Improved-Stove-Top-Fan-from-Junk/

Hay Hulkbuild,,so I finally finished my Stove fan write up. https://www.instructables.com/id/Improved-Stove-To... It's got a couple of new features the old one didn't like overheat protection. If your voting offer is still open I'll take you up on it ;)

Dude, you made my day! The whole point of doing the vid in the first place was to share it, and it's really cool to see how you ran with the idea.I really appreciate you adding a link somewhere in there :DI'll be sorta competing but good luck in the contest. B.PS how thick was the Alu sheet you used for the fan blades?

Nice. I am guessing you watched my youtube video https://goo.gl/PwNwhr or read my blog post here http://www.floweringelbow.org/2018/wood-stove/maki... on the subject of making a stove top fan like this from an old chainsaw cylinder using a brass elbow. If so (and I haven't seen the idea anywhere else on the net), how about showing me some love with a link in your 'able? It was a kinda original idea... Either way, I like your twist on it and a nice write up. I had to sigh, as I am about half way through writing up an instructable for the trash to treasure contest too... Have some new things up my sleeve though ;) Peace, B.

Really nice. Does anyone ever hammer the ends of the stainless rod to mushroom them out and help keep the handle locked? Looks strong enough as is, just wondered. Thanks for sharing.

Not sure but probably!

:D Thanks

Thanks!

Ta

Really enjoyed reading through this, thanks for sharing. I am part way through my own CNC build, so comparing your choices was interesting. Would you go acrylic again, for the z?

Nice work! Like the finished item, and good use of soft jaws.

Thanks!

Thanks :D show us a photo of you make one ;)

Awesome. Thanks for sharing. Love that you can wheel it out for sunshine workin'. The m & t joints look like they turned out pretty nice and strong - and nothing beats the look of a wedged tenon ;)

Robin, that looks great! The frame seems like a good strong metal one, so that's going to be keeping it nice and flat. Looking forward to the fireplace mantel.

I checked it out - nice!

OK then. I will have to rebuild my router sled, or shall we just say the cnc will do? It's nothing but a jumped up router sled after all ;) Close enough, let me know when you're in the UK and wanna pop in for a visit/duel.

Nice tip Garth. Thanks.

Looks amazing. Loving the mitred natural edges - a very nice effect.

Me too. Thanks!

Very good question! My only experience of steam bending has been making an ash drum (http://www.floweringelbow.org/2011/woodwork/making...), which mostly worked. Some of the challenges with such an approach would be to a) make the equipment - mainly a big enough container for the steaming. b) Not adding so much moisture to the wood that it has to do a whole cycle of drying again and c) constraining the workpiece so as to eliminate twist - It couldn't just be clamped flat, as there is always some 'springback', so it would need to be twisted past flat in the other directing, if that makes sense? All issues that are dealable. It certainly wouldn't be a quick fix unless you were all setup for steam bending and had done a good number of experiments though...

That is 'THE' definitive way to deal with twist. If you can't afford to loose any thickness though it doesn't work.... I have seen beautiful twisted boards binned for that reason. This is one way to save them.

Wuhay i got a comment! Thanks seamster!

kjn

Yep the bearing is hollow, as long as you drill in just the right place it doesn't change it at all, depending on what bar you have of course. You will probably need a carbide bit to get through the bar.

Hi. Yep I can and do turn the bar over from time to time. The hose of the oiler just exits onto the bar near the chain (on the cut side) From there it finds its way onto the chain, because there isn't anywhere else for it to go. It's very low-tech, but seems to work.

Really interesting read, thanks so much for sharing this. I have loads of questions, but here's one: when you are taking heavy cuts across the width of the table (what I would call the y axis - though people seem to switch up terms here), do you notice the gantry end plates flexing at all? I wonder because although the triangular shape would make them strong in the X direction, they are essentially just flat plates in the y? I ask because I am in the process of Al casting some gantry end plates... Thanks again for an awesome write up :)

Thanks for the reply sevenmead. As a minimum the end plates may only have to be as strong as the cutting bit, but.... If you are trying to reduce chatter and increase accuracy, stiffness is more important than ultimate strength. If the end plates flexed as happily as a 1/8 inch bit during cut, they would increase deflection significantly because they are so much longer than the cutting bit. Imagine cutting with even a 1/2" bit that was stuck out as long as your z travel (more than 200mm)... That's going to increase inaccuracy a lot in all but the lightest of cuts! Now in reality cutter length is only one factor (of many) contributing to deflection at the cut. We obviously limit the stick out length of cutting bits to minimise it. Even then, cutter flex isn't easy to mitigate, wher...

Thanks for the reply sevenmead. As a minimum the end plates may only have to be as strong as the cutting bit, but.... If you are trying to reduce chatter and increase accuracy, stiffness is more important than ultimate strength. If the end plates flexed as happily as a 1/8 inch bit during cut, they would increase deflection significantly because they are so much longer than the cutting bit. Imagine cutting with even a 1/2" bit that was stuck out as long as your z travel (more than 200mm)... That's going to increase inaccuracy a lot in all but the lightest of cuts! Now in reality cutter length is only one factor (of many) contributing to deflection at the cut. We obviously limit the stick out length of cutting bits to minimise it. Even then, cutter flex isn't easy to mitigate, where as inaccuracy coming from the gantry beam, frame elements, linear guides, belts or ballscrews etc. is something we can usually work on to reduce deflection.Either way if you can tug on it without deflection, sounds like it is ample for your requirements, which is all that matters in the end. Thanks again for sharing.PS. I like your bling sliding electronics enclosure.

Hi Ronald. Sounds like you have your hands full. Looking forward to seeing a photo of it when you have it all glued up. Having 2 discs will really be useful. I have wanted to have 40 or 60 grit for quick stock removal a number of times, but am usually set up with 80 as a kinda compromise between surface finish and removal rate. I could change the disc, but who wants to bother with that when they are mid project!?

Nice instructable and video, thanks for sharing. Finished product looks very cool - I like a lot! I have an engine waiting for me to dismantle, and am quite excited about all the various cool parts I will find - I'm just not looking forward to the de-greasing and cleaning which is a nasty business in my experience. Though while my parents are on holiday I am tempted to try the dishwasher ;) Thanks again, good work.

You can use wood as soon as you cut it - It just depends what you are using it for, moisture content when you cut it, how it is stored, species, thickness, etc. etc. A million variables as to whether you SHOULD use it or not...