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  • borgsteam followed jacob.svensk6 months ago
      • Automatic Lawn Mower
      • Automatic Lawn Mower
      • Automatic Lawn Mower
  • Is there anyone that has come here, that has info on working on the Kobalt line of lithium ion battery 40v or 80v mowers? or should I start documenting my progress and what I learn for anyone else also looking? going to coat the underbelly with epoxy paint and hydrophobic coating, to make this summer much easier on maintaining it, (that and maybe check to see if oil and cleaning is needed on my mower, since it is going on it's 3rd summer of cutting the one acre yard here with the same 40v battery it came with, and showing no sign of stopping working, just got rusted up underneath, cause the priority style blade they make is so soft that even plain grass dulls the edge in one or two cuts, causing it to stop cutting and start smashing and ripping the grass enough to turn it into paste tha...

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    Is there anyone that has come here, that has info on working on the Kobalt line of lithium ion battery 40v or 80v mowers? or should I start documenting my progress and what I learn for anyone else also looking? going to coat the underbelly with epoxy paint and hydrophobic coating, to make this summer much easier on maintaining it, (that and maybe check to see if oil and cleaning is needed on my mower, since it is going on it's 3rd summer of cutting the one acre yard here with the same 40v battery it came with, and showing no sign of stopping working, just got rusted up underneath, cause the priority style blade they make is so soft that even plain grass dulls the edge in one or two cuts, causing it to stop cutting and start smashing and ripping the grass enough to turn it into paste that sticks to the underside, binding up the blade, and before someone goes on about gas vs electric, and battery power, we have a kid across the street with a riding gas mower, that gets bound up and does the same thing, stalling, cause we have some sort of mutant wet and thick grass/clover or something, maybe? anyway. if anyone has info, links ect, like how to pop the contacts apart from the on off power lever from the motor body, and what not, please let me know, else I guess I will put the info up after I stumble through it and hopefully not destroy anything LOL.

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  • Reusing Ferric Chloride for PCB Etching at Home

    Something I am not seeing a lot of posts about etching, mention, is the use of peroxide, I wonder why that is, as my original investigation years ago for etching brass and copper panels from one side all the way through (like .01" thick though usually only .005" thick) mentioned this trick, as it along with heating helps speed the process up greatly, Additionally, the bubbling trick is as much for the birds as circulation by vibrating or stirring lol, get a heater using kanthal wire, wrapped around a container some what small, and two graphite plates on either side to pump this solution through, with voltage (positive on one side negative on the other) and you can push it all uphill to a system that sprays it over your items to be etched, or use a pump that can handle the act...

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    Something I am not seeing a lot of posts about etching, mention, is the use of peroxide, I wonder why that is, as my original investigation years ago for etching brass and copper panels from one side all the way through (like .01" thick though usually only .005" thick) mentioned this trick, as it along with heating helps speed the process up greatly, Additionally, the bubbling trick is as much for the birds as circulation by vibrating or stirring lol, get a heater using kanthal wire, wrapped around a container some what small, and two graphite plates on either side to pump this solution through, with voltage (positive on one side negative on the other) and you can push it all uphill to a system that sprays it over your items to be etched, or use a pump that can handle the actual solution, with all plastic and rubber bits inside, so you can put pressure on it going into your sealed heated tank, so that it sprays both up and down on the bottom and top of your boards, with resist on both sides, to get both extremely fast and clean results far better than any of the ones like you guys are mentioning, and it definitely can double for other tasks, since etching a bunch of plates then stacking them (with holes to bolt it all together) allows for an alternative to 3D printing with metal :)as for drilling I am about to embark on a whole new way, using lasers to etch the resist, acid etch these boards, exposing both board under the outsides of my traces and inside the holes a bit, so I can then use the same laser to drill the board inside, as well as use kapton tape on thin copper sheet to make flexible units that can be then stacked on top of each other with solder points going through to make 2, 3, or even higher amounts of layered boards, just thought I would share a third perspective on this, though a sonic bath modified to use for this (ie, coat the inside with spray on plastic or heat up a plastic polyethylene sheet like you get for paint tarps and such, to stick on and coat the inside) then pour in your solution, turn on the heater, and sonication unit to really get aggressive with that copper :)I should also mention, you should not be throwing away this copper compound, as it is a good starting point for copper nano particles, instead sort it and hang onto that copper, so you can reuse it. and you can use a couple tricks to get a salt bridge electrolysis cell to give you ferric chloride on the chlorine side of your bridge, and leave you with sodium hydroxide on the other, to use for neutralizing things. or chemistry to make your compounds you need for making the copper nano particles, that will fuse together with elbow grease to make pure copper sheet, or even strong flashes from strobe lights to make copper plating right on a board of choice. :)

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  • You could look up how to make a ball mill, and make one from some stuff you have around your place, as for some of the pressure based ideas like mortar and pestle, you would have to remember that aluminum processing suffers from galling (where the metal you are breaking off, and pressing against the left over metal in the block, sticks to it to the point it is nearly one piece of metal again like welding, and is used for aluminum to say steel welding where you spin the aluminum around while pressing a flat section against your steel, then stop it, with out removing it, and give it a second to cool off, then unclamp from the rod of aluminum, leaving it welded to the surface of your steel) so I would suggest if you dont want to use a ball mill, that you could use something like 220 grit...

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    You could look up how to make a ball mill, and make one from some stuff you have around your place, as for some of the pressure based ideas like mortar and pestle, you would have to remember that aluminum processing suffers from galling (where the metal you are breaking off, and pressing against the left over metal in the block, sticks to it to the point it is nearly one piece of metal again like welding, and is used for aluminum to say steel welding where you spin the aluminum around while pressing a flat section against your steel, then stop it, with out removing it, and give it a second to cool off, then unclamp from the rod of aluminum, leaving it welded to the surface of your steel) so I would suggest if you dont want to use a ball mill, that you could use something like 220 grit wet or dry sandpaper with a liquid over its surface to capture the dust, unless you need a smaller particle size, then just go with a higher grade of sand paper. also you could get a fine grade of diamond burr to grind it down, capturing it off say a Dremel or similar hand held rotary tool,(like a Foredom), which is how I am collecting small amounts of small grit tungsten carbide. I grind down old endmills and such that are made of solid carbide, to make things like chisels and capture the dust, saving it for future use. (the carbide chisel is for carving tool steel for dies and the like, by hand or later with an ultrasonic driven one, basically a hand held ultrasonic piezo unit from a ultrasonic bath, attached to the chisel so that pushing with my hand is assisted by the constant 40kHz hammering action of the piezo element to push through new annealed O-1 tool steel, to make things like token dies, :) So to avoid the heavy abusive onslaught of boredom of filing or sanding on the aluminum, just prepare your set up to capture it from other work you are doing. so you are not even thinking about it till you have enough saved up to make your project with the aluminum powder, work. :)

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  • How to Etch Aluminum Panel Labels/designs With a Reusable Acid Mix

    I am a bit confused about the reuse, does not pirhana acid decompose over time if left on a shelf? (ie, the peroxide breaks down to make plain water, as it does in a container normally and does so faster if it is not in a color fast container to avoid UV light from causing it to convert to water and raw oxygen if I recall,) thus you would need to add more each time and the hydro chloric acid would be more and more diluted over time getting weaker, even if the aluminum did not form any aluminum chloride robbing you of the Cl from your HCl thus leaving just water behind?

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  • How to 3D Print on String (How to Make Floating Jewelry)

    hold on, cause shoe printing is not far off ;)

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