bratan

I think these are just decoupling capacitors to smooth out power supply. I don't remember why I even used two. One should be sufficient. I think you can get away with single one of either value...

Great instructiable! I'm curious if you experienced any sagging on top acrylic part after a while? I made an acrylic cover for aquarium (that held water to cool of CO2 laser) and after few months it would always sag down. I tried thicker (1/4") acrylic and same thing kept happening. It seems that water is just few degrees higher than air (due to submersed pump) and this causes acrylic to bow downward. I would flip it it would eventually bow back and down again... Replacing it with polycarbonate fixed the issue, but I really hate polycarbonate because it's not laser cutter friendly.

Very slick project! Any issues with dirt and sand getting inside motors?

Great job man! I made my some time in February, but never figured out how to get sync it with magnets and hall effect sensors. Sorry you not the first to make POV spinner, but there were some guys before me as well :) Forget about Kickstarter, there were bunch of similar projects that never got funded :( Appreciate open source!

Very nicely organized project. If I may suggest something. You always want to have some air gap between solar panel and roof so it cools off. Otherwise it looses a lot of efficiency when it heats up and also might fail soon. And completely sealing any air flow under it is super bad idea...

WOW amazing, thanks a lot for sharing!

This is very cool! I built my Hexapod but couldn't get Uno to talk to SSC-32 controller for some reason. Your code works with Mega! Now I just need to reverse engineer it to get working with software serial (as Uno has only one UART).BTW you code doesn't compile in newer Arduino IDE. Fortunately it's easy fix by replacing <WProgram.h> with <Arduino.h>. And it compiles on Arduino 1.6.13 :)Thanks for your work!

Good catch! Yes you are right, it's pin 13. I fixed it. Thank you.

It depends on tyoe of LEDs used. Do you have datasheet for it?

That's a really cool simulator! Can you explain a little how to use it?

You can disregard my question. I just found original Soundfounder's code :) Looks like you removed parts of it, that's what confused me. There's also a nice guide explaining how code works.

Fantastic project!!! Thanks for sharing all the details! I've made my own laser cut quadruped robot and trying to adapt your code. Only difference is that I'm using Adafruit's 16 channel controller board instead of arduino PWM pins. Your code mentions "adjustment" routines, but they are missing. Would you mind sharing those as well? :) I got everything moving but because I'm wired different and have different frame, leg positions is incorrect (i.e. leg #4 is not doing mouch for some reason). I think I just need to calibrate it...I wrote small function to emulate "servo" command with PWM controller:void moveServo(char chan, float deg) {int pulselength;if ( (deg >= 0 ) && (deg <= 180 )) {pulselength = map(deg, 0, 180, SERVOMIN, SERVOMAX);pwm.setPWM(chan...

Fantastic project!!! Thanks for sharing all the details! I've made my own laser cut quadruped robot and trying to adapt your code. Only difference is that I'm using Adafruit's 16 channel controller board instead of arduino PWM pins. Your code mentions "adjustment" routines, but they are missing. Would you mind sharing those as well? :) I got everything moving but because I'm wired different and have different frame, leg positions is incorrect (i.e. leg #4 is not doing mouch for some reason). I think I just need to calibrate it...I wrote small function to emulate "servo" command with PWM controller:void moveServo(char chan, float deg) {int pulselength;if ( (deg >= 0 ) && (deg <= 180 )) {pulselength = map(deg, 0, 180, SERVOMIN, SERVOMAX);pwm.setPWM(chan,0,pulselength);} else Serial.println ("Invalid degree specified!");}

That's even better! :) Thank you!

Nice! I need to make this! BTW here's an idea. If you add a small flat piece of wood at the end, you'll make an end-stop so you don't have to stop dowel with your finger. And you can hinge it on a screw so you can lift it up to push thru dowel...

Also as an idea you can add a temperature sensors to your circuit (one near battery, second one (optional) to the resistor). This way you can abort test automatically if battery overheats and/or sound alarm.

Great instructible! I recently got bunch of these batteries, so need to test them :)I have 4Ohm 5Watt resistors on hand. These should work right? I calculated curent will be 1.04A and power is 4.41Watt

As an improvement get a ZIF socket instead. Much easier to insert and remove IC without bending any legs...