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Hi, sorry you are not getting the right values. Couple of things to try:Try another MS5611 library and see what numbers you get.https://www.instructables.com/Arduino-Atmospheric-Tape-Measure-MS5611-GY63-GY86-/There is a similar project below that may help that uses the above libraryhttps://www.instructables.com/Arduino-Atmospheric-Tape-Measure-MS5611-GY63-GY86-/I was using an older version of arduino, you could try rolling back to an earlier build that could solve the problem.I dont recall having this issue when I built mine.
Hmm, not sure, it compiles OK for me using arduino IDE1.8.5
Sculpted Oak Desk
Yes, you should be able to just use the USB power supply. You do not need 7.4V. In this circuit, the battery is plugged into VCC on the Arduino. The Arduino has a built in regulator that will convert this to 5V or 3.3V.
Very cool, the 3D printed parts are way more detailed and really add to the overall look! Kudos getting the electronics squeezed in there!
Fast Electric Skateboard LiPo Charging System (BMS + CC/VC PSU)
Hi Thomas,The helmet is a challenging build for sure, there are lots of soldered joints and fiddly tasks to contend with. Mine is delicate and pretty uncomfortable, it is really a prototype, it is not perfect in any way but I thought I'd share the plans to help others start building one. I just wanted to see if I could build one!Jay Kay's has a different wiring configuration. Others have built helmets using this instructable (see in the comments) and have managed to include the electronics in the helmet. By changing the wiring of the servos power and ground cables the number of wires sticking out the back can be reduced.The video is of my helmet, it uses servos and lights simultaneously. I did this using two arduinos, one for servos one for LEDs. My lighting circuit is rudimentary in that…
Hi Thomas,The helmet is a challenging build for sure, there are lots of soldered joints and fiddly tasks to contend with. Mine is delicate and pretty uncomfortable, it is really a prototype, it is not perfect in any way but I thought I'd share the plans to help others start building one. I just wanted to see if I could build one!Jay Kay's has a different wiring configuration. Others have built helmets using this instructable (see in the comments) and have managed to include the electronics in the helmet. By changing the wiring of the servos power and ground cables the number of wires sticking out the back can be reduced.The video is of my helmet, it uses servos and lights simultaneously. I did this using two arduinos, one for servos one for LEDs. My lighting circuit is rudimentary in that one connection controls the dome lights and the eye lights at the same time. That is you cant control the eyes separately. I am informed by the friendly folks on the Arduino forum that it is possible to control them separately if you rework the code. There are loads of guides on Arduino to help you tweak the code. If you want to make one then that's great! Just be aware this is an involved build, you'll have to solve some problems along the way and improve on the design but the results are worth it!Cheers!
Great stuff, you may be able to add some code to the Arduino that already controls the lights but I'm not 100% on that. Wiring the servos like you have is a good improvement on mine!
Congrats! It's a long build for sure! Would love to see how the 3D printed parts worked out.
https://youtu.be/jYOYgU2vlSE here may be a good place to start! Also check out the links in the description of that video.
Glad to hear it is fixed, nice work!
Yes you are right. The layout should be symmetrical.
The parts look good, this is an innovative approach. Please remember to include a capacitor and resistor to your lights as detailed by the neopixel user guide. I will certainly add a note on LED orientation. There has been a discussion on the Arduino forum about the lighting circuit and how it could be made more flexible, you may want to read it. See GrumpyMike below.
Thank you for bringing this to my attention, I have modified the instructions to further emphasise the importance of these components.
As has already been mentioned adding the capacitor and resistor would be the best place to start. Unfortunately, I am out of the country and cannot test your code. I saw in your earlier post the lights all lit up, were you ever able to successfully run the lighting code or is this a new problem?
Yes, that is correct. The signal wires (pink) are all connected together. They are then connected to the arduino.
Nice one, congrats, looks really clean!
Hi, when you first turn it on it will do a random flash sequence, if you wait a bit then it should start all lighting up.
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Thanks for sharing your models, they look class!
3D Printed MB Jeep and M416 Trailer in 1:10 Scale
Nice work! Hope it turns out well :D
Super clean build, mine is rough in comparison! I like the way you mounted the servos.
Yes on the button you have the power on the left then on the right you first have a cable going to the Arduino then a resistor connected to ground. The headdress look great btw!
Wow what a cool prize! Congrats on the build and enjoy your season!
Fantastic work! It's surreal to see it recreated in real life, I'm glad I could help! Getting the electronics to fit inside the headdress is a major improvement, kudos!
Glad you got it sorted!
Oh wow! Great work, very neat, I'm glad you got the sketches uploaded! You have the servos and lights installed, I found that the most challenging part, you're well on your way! The front and back LEDs are the same but a bit less complicated.
Hmm, what exactly does it say the error is? Does the servo sketch not upload to both nanos? Have you soldered any wires to the nano yet? Arduino can be fun and games at times!
Yes, I think you are right, the current drawn from each servo spikes dramatically when they first start moving, multiply this by a lot of servos and your power supply may be failing to deliver the current. Try a larger power supply or perhaps try to reduce the speed at which you move each servo. Also, make sure you have a ground wire connected to your Arduino ground and the external power source ground!! This has caught me out before!
Hi!Could you be more specific on your problem? When building mine I prototyped the circuits using an Arduino UNO, when I was sure I had the code correct I downloaded the code onto a pro mini. I highly recommend you do the same!Pro minis need an FTDI to USB adapter to download the code onto them. ( I will add this component to the parts list!) When using the pro minis make sure you have selected the right kind of board (Tools > Board > Arduino Pro Mini) and com port from the Arduino software. Cheers.