cjameson's instructables
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- cjameson commented on cjameson's instructable Arduino Fog Machine Timer
- cjameson commented on cjameson's instructable Monster in a BoxView Instructable »
That is interesting. I am not a C expert but I did not think that #define implied type. What you did is fine - it just causes those variables to take up program memory space where #define avoids this. Looking at the code I do see that I forced the result of random() into an int on line 245 int activityDuration = random(WAKE_MIN_MILLIS, WAKE_MAX_MILLIS);This probably should have been: unsigned long activityDuration = random(WAKE_MIN_MILLIS, WAKE_MAX_MILLIS);In Arduino int is a 16-bit (2-byte) value with a range of -32,768 to 32,767 which seems to be consistent with what you were seeing.I dont have my environment setup right now. but I suggest that you consider replacing the #defines and trying this change to see if it helps
- cjameson's instructable Arduino Fog Machine Timer's weekly stats:
- cjameson's instructable LED Skull Torches's weekly stats:
- cjameson completed the lessons Flat Pack Furniture and Tools and Materials for CNC in the class CNC Class
- cjameson entered LED Skull Torches in the Halloween Contest 2018 contest
- cjameson commented on cjameson's instructable Monster in a Box
The wires that failed where those in the WiperMotor-Relay-PSU circuit. There is probably a large amp spike as the motor starts up. I would think that the wires you are planning to use from the computer cord will work fine. They should be rated for 15amps at 110v. I would use similar wires for the other 2 (fog & lights) relay circuits. I cannibalized an old household extension cord for these. Everything from the Arduino is just 5 volts so 22 gauge jumpers work just fine.One note on those jumpers though: since you are just pushing single pins into the arduino and they dont have much grip they can shake loose over time - keep an eye out for that if you box starts misbehaving. This year used some protoboard and created a connection shield to fit above the wav shield with latching h…
see more »View Instructable »Mine was doing this recently and it turned out that the PIR sensor was damaged and not working. While working on this I learned that if this sensor is not working properly or it is removed from the arduino (ie that input pin is constantly 'open') the code behaves as if the sensor is attached and triggered. Thus, the monster 'wakes up' every 30 seconds. ...and, no there is nothing in the code to randomly wake the monster, only the PIR sensor wakes it.I also purchased one of those multipacks of PIR sensors from amazon (5 sensors from diymalls) and I found that some of them were bad right out of the box ( i will not buy from them again). if you have not already build yourself a test for your sensor all you need is an arduino, a few jumper wires, maybe a small breadboard and the sensor.…
see more » - cjameson commented on cjameson's instructable Monster in a BoxView Instructable »
Did you copy and paste code into the arduio ide? Sounds like you pasted the Roar method into the file twice
- cjameson's instructable Monster in a Box's weekly stats:
- cjameson commented on tjaap's instructable Cheap Web-connected ThermostatView Instructable »
great project. How long have you been using this in your home?I have read that the DHT22 has an accuracy of ±2°C. It seems to me that this might not be accurate enough to maintain a comfortable temperature in a home. What has been your experience with this?A second thought: In my home the thermostat is located in a central hall rather than a room that people gather in. the result is that the hall is at a "perfect temp" but the family room is not. have you considered adding wireless satellite temp sensors to your build to deal with such situations?
- cjameson commented on cjameson's instructable Monster in a BoxView Instructable »
Many different reactions. Most loved it - but a few (mostly younger) kids would not go anywhere near it. I got a few really good scares with it too. I set the sensor so that it would trigger as they got about 1/2 way up the driveway. A few kids (and adults) instinctively ran (bolted) back to the safety of the sidewalk when they triggered it *Evil Grin*
- cjameson entered Monster in a Box in the Halloween Contest 2017 contest
- cjameson entered Monster in a Box in the Make It Move Contest 2017 contest
- cjameson commented on Sara Cook's instructable #OctopiWallStreet: Big Cheap TentaclesView Instructable »
These are great. Does anyone have thoughts on how to make them to move around a bit? maybe with some small servos and a Arduino?
- cjameson commented on Bhawya's instructable HOMEMADE SOUR PATCH WATERMELONView Instructable »
Has anyone tried this with a sugar substitute to make a 'no sugar added' version?
- cjameson commented on Elias Stratakos's instructable Wall Tool Holders
how did you fix all the holders to the melamine? can they be repositioned or replaced if you buy more tools?
View Instructable »I just watched the video. It looks like you have screwed the holder to the melamine.I wonder if embedding rare earth magnets into the back of the holders and intalling a steel sheet behind the melamine would work? It would be more expensive, but it would provide many more layout options. Just a thought. As it stands this is an excellent instructable - nicely done!
- cjameson commented on mrakuaku's instructable Calibrate 3D Printer or Other CNC Machine With Laser PointerView Instructable »
Found these on ebay today. I think I may design a fixture to hold 2 of these (one for X/Y & one for Z calibration) on the Y-Axis arm:http://www.ebay.com/itm/5-PCS-650nm-6mm-DC-5V-5mW-...
- cjameson commented on mrakuaku's instructable Calibrate 3D Printer or Other CNC Machine With Laser PointerView Instructable »
Nice instructable. I followed you previous one to calibrate my Printrbot Simple 1403 and saw a visible improvement in my prints. I will try this process next time.It might be fun to design and print a laser housing that provides the pin hole and a mount point to glue the magnet into
- cjameson commented on mrakuaku's instructable How to accurately calibrate your 3D PrinterView Instructable »
Great explanation of the calibration process. However I wonder about the accuracy in the measurements. In your examples your measurements found your axis to be off by 0.8mm, 0.2mm and 0.5mm. It seems to me that these values would fall into the measurement error of the tools that you are using? Do you think that the placement of 2 pieces of tape (x & y axis) and then the measurement is accurate within the measured delta of 0.2mm?After adjusting based on these measurements did you see a measurable difference in the quality of your prints? Not trying to be critical here... as I said this is a great instructable. I am just wondering the accuracy expectation should be for this process.
- cjameson commented on Imetomi's instructable Bicycle Cell Phone Charger (Wind Turbine with build in Battery)View Instructable »
Just want to point out that anytime you generate electricity from a kinetic system you increase the work that you need to do. The question is: how much electrical power do you want/need and how much are you willing to increase the work that YOU add to the system?
Nicely done. You could also use something like an ESP8266 dev board to make it wireless. Development on the ESP is basically the same as the Arduino and you get a WiFi enabled board for just $5