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Baking with with melted / liquid oil versus cool / solid oil can produce radically different results. You will not get the same results using melted oil in place of solid oil in baked goods, unless the recipe specifically calls for warm / melted oil. Baking is basically chemistry, and the temperature and viscosity of the batter can radically change the outcome. Make two batches of chocolate chip cookies - one with solid fat, one with liquid. They will be startlingly different from each other. Not necessarily bad, but very different...
Not sure if you realize - you would have to strip the original paint off first. You must have bare, clean metal for the powder to adhere cleanly. Even tiny amounts of dirt and imperfections will mar the final finish.
Nice job! I have a similar set up, and a valuable additional feature is to make the drawer directly underneath into an off-cut and dust / debris catcher. I have found that a lot of stuff is not caught by dust collection and piles up under the saw, which is hard to clean. I have one drawer that is roughly the width and depth of the saw, about 6" deep. The surface between the saw and the drawer has several large holes in it. The idea of the holes is that there is a minimum of interference for the falling debris to get caught on. Now, I can simply drop small off cuts behind the saw and they collect in the drawer. When the drawer is full I simply pull it out to empty it. The full drawer was awkward to empty, so I later made a further improvement to the drawer by cutting a 6" x 12&...
Nice job! I have a similar set up, and a valuable additional feature is to make the drawer directly underneath into an off-cut and dust / debris catcher. I have found that a lot of stuff is not caught by dust collection and piles up under the saw, which is hard to clean. I have one drawer that is roughly the width and depth of the saw, about 6" deep. The surface between the saw and the drawer has several large holes in it. The idea of the holes is that there is a minimum of interference for the falling debris to get caught on. Now, I can simply drop small off cuts behind the saw and they collect in the drawer. When the drawer is full I simply pull it out to empty it. The full drawer was awkward to empty, so I later made a further improvement to the drawer by cutting a 6" x 12" hole in the drawer bottom, with a sliding sheet metal door. Now I can pull the drawer most of the way out, slide a trash can under the sheet metal door and scrape the debris into the trash can.
Clarification - the debris drawer is centered underneath the saw, where the author has placed three smaller drawers.
Any strong base or acid, and a lot of other stuff. I think Boric Acid is used to dissolve stumps, for example. I don't know enough to safely be more specific, but there is a LOT of information out there on partial and complete dissolution of wood - from slow, clean, and safe to fast, toxic, and dangerous.
The ability to initially slide the blank into the cut is a great detail I have never thought of in the many circle jigs I have built over the years. I will make a 24" version of this, but I want infinite selection of circle size. I think I will add a second layer to the jig - allowing the center groove to slide left to right. A bit more complicated, but infinite diameter selection from around 1/2" to 48" would be great!
Good idea - I have done another version of what you are describing is to char the wood with a torch and then sandblasting or wire brushing away the burnt parts. It takes away the softer and/or burned wood - leaving the harder wood revealed and adding some contrast from the burning. A combo of splintering / sand blasting / burning might be worth some experimenting. Also, I have less experience with the next idea - using a product to partially dissolve some of the wood structure (lignin versus cellulose, I believe). You can get some really cool lacy / organic looks, and the epoxy would stabilize the delicate wood.
The author states in the description that bubbles are desirable in this instance. They add a nice detail to the result - a little like stars.
Medieval Leather Pouch
This looks great!There is one addition that I would highly recommend. On my saw bench, I built a open top drawer that is slightly wider and deeper than the saw table and about 6" deep. Cut some holes in the deck that supports the feet of the saw. Make them large enough that most small off cuts can fall into the drawer. This allows the majority of sawdust and off cuts to fall into the drawer, making cleanup MUCH easier. Just pull it out and empty it.You can also add a sliding panel near the front of the drawer bottom. Pull the drawer part way out, put a trash can under the panel, slide the panel open, and scrape the waste into the trash.
Very cool! As an aside, when drilling small pieces of glass it's easier to simply place it in a pan or bowl. Fill it to just cover the glass, and drill baby, drill!
Wonderful! Is it possible to post an audio file of how it sounds? Or at least a video with sound?
I agree! I use it a lot, but I HATE the feel of it. The texture is like nails on a chalkboard.
Great job!!! One suggestion - I add lights to almost all my tools - I never realized what a huge difference it makes! I have discovered that a single light will often cast a distracting shadow where the bit touches the surface being drilled. I use three lights in a triangle pattern around the barrel, casting a much more even field of light, with no shadows. Dewalt is already doing this on a few of its impact drivers, I noticed. I also added a ring of lights around the bit collet on my hand router - it makes cutting tricky mortises infinitely easier!
This is a WONDERFUL idea for a home shop or small parts shop. I need one badly! This needs to be commercially made.
This needs a better explanation up front about what it is and what it does.
I just spewed a minute amount of my beverage when I read this. Thank goodness I had a spare 9 volt handy.
Wonderful 'ible!!! One comment - the side walls of the peg slots look awfully thin. The quantity of operating cycles this item would experience in its lifetime might be so small that it wouldn't matter, but simply doubling the thickness would make a huge difference for potential wear problems and would make it appear a bit more solid. Operation cycles could be surprisingly high if it had a long lifetime.