cool austin

the very bottom of the case holds 4 1/8" diameter stove bolts from homedepot, the top half has captive slots to hold the nuts, this allows the two halfs to be bolted togeth to seal it as one box.

the PCB is from sayal electronics (sorry don't have a part number)it measures, 10.5cm x 16.5cm

the socket is used to hold the MSGEQ7 ic - this ic is a 7 channel equalizer , the data stream is read by the arduino. the ic can be sensative which is why i soldered the socket holder instead of soldering the ic directly

The mini 3w speakers that came with the unit, swiftly found them selves in my "junk" extra box, for who know one day I might need them (they are actually half decent), as for music audio output, I used a 3.5mm jack on the back, where I can plug in any external stereo system I want.

the exterior measurements of the box are: (L) 240mm x (W) 140mm x (H) 90mmThe side walls were 2mm thickBottom and Top are 4mm thick

It took quite some time, the most time consuming is 3d printing and the perf board as I didn't fully know how I would set up the board, I try to limit the length and size of traces and jumpers. Ideally You might convert it to a PCB design, I would recommend changing the motor drive circuit as it has PWM noise when speakers are connected unleash you can change the timers as suggested by someone else's comments.If you're proficient with Circuit board / perf board assembly and followed the photos It might be possible to do in 4 hours, its been awhile since I did this project so I'm not sure how long it too (likely a night - 8 hours from scratch; but all the hard stuff is done now, you just have to follow along) If you had the 3d printing done ahead of time you might be able to do the proje...

It took quite some time, the most time consuming is 3d printing and the perf board as I didn't fully know how I would set up the board, I try to limit the length and size of traces and jumpers. Ideally You might convert it to a PCB design, I would recommend changing the motor drive circuit as it has PWM noise when speakers are connected unleash you can change the timers as suggested by someone else's comments.If you're proficient with Circuit board / perf board assembly and followed the photos It might be possible to do in 4 hours, its been awhile since I did this project so I'm not sure how long it too (likely a night - 8 hours from scratch; but all the hard stuff is done now, you just have to follow along) If you had the 3d printing done ahead of time you might be able to do the project in 4 hours. Hope this long answer of infomation helps.

I think this project is awesome. I'm think of making one into a workshop clock... so much so that I've done a PCB with arduino nano, RTC module. is designed to be expandable and all inclusive. also added the 3D files for it. I'll probably build it once I get my solder oven on order. https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1dY8juODO2_8eVJrgNFmTK-Mj2VuRPNkv?usp=sharing cheers and keep up the creative work.

what plan did you choose for the api? and does it show sunrise/sunset or would i have to program that?

I completed this project with the neopixels. code: https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B_92Lvv7i0cIb29NRUVfSEdwVXM/view?usp=sharing

you would need to know the wattage of the lights (volts x amps) then multiply that number by how many hours you expect to have the lights on. the solar panel should be the size of that number or higher. eg: I want to run a 12v light that draws 2 amp so 12x2 = 24w and If i run it for 3 hours then the solar panel needs to be 72 watts. I would choose higher to account for potential lack of sunlight on odd days and for panel efficency