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  • Lets Fix a Fitbit Charge 2 Together. Lines in the Screen.

    I'm in the same position - a fitbit charge 2 that worked fine, lost lines on the screen over a couple days, and then screen was completely black one morning. Unit still works because it vibrates when I hold down a button.The front panel came off using a sharp art knife across the two short edges to cut the sealant. The clips weren't doing anything much. But on unplugging the screen's ribbon cable I saw nothing wrong. Dripping contact cleaner in the plug and socket, and that didn't help either.Frankly I'd never recommend fitbit to anyone based on this planned obsolescence - web searches are full of it, with fitbit's only response being "reboot it" and "replace it"

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  • criggie commented on Cyberslayer's instructable UV Handlebar Light
    UV Handlebar Light

    I've done this for years, but I have the lamp behind me and shining straight up illuminating a fluorescent flag on a pole from below. My bike is a recumbent, so visibility is even more important. The flag flaps about in the wind and is visible from all directions.This works very nicely on a normal urban street at night and works stunningly well on an unlit road in the dark.My next plan is to build a different UV light that runs on 18V because I have a drill battery running one set of white front and red rear lights.

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  • Xbox 360 Rechargeable Battery Pack Tear Down

    Speed. Don't spend ages heating the battery. Use a tiny bit of liquid flux on the battery terminal, and pre-solder the metal straps. Tip of iron should be 2-3 seconds on the battery at most.

    I did this - mine now has 2x Sony 1200 mAH batteries instead of the original 900 mAH batteries. Yeah the label on the outside was lies stating 2100 mAH for the pack... in series the mAH capacity does not sum.

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  • Drill Battery Rebuild - NiCd to Lithium

    I did somethign very similar with an old 7.2V ryobi. Two 3.6V 18650 batteries was a perfect voltage, and the physical space was just right. However there was no BMS used. Instead I left the battery pack wide open and simply swap the cells out when they need charging.Battery dropped from 342g to 143g so under half the weight, and the pack went from 2Ah rated to 9Ah rated (minus the usual chinese brown-number factor)

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  • Your content was pinched and republished at https://imgur.com/gallery/Hux2o

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  • Excellent observation - I was taught the same.I'm going to guess its so the blade hits the work as vertically as possible. If he had the blade just poking through the top of the work, then it would result in a curved cut, and the workpiece would be larger diameter on the top vs the bottom. Flipping it and trimming again would leave a V profile on the outside.Perhaps this technique would produce a more-squared result on a bandsaw, but we don't always have access to every tool we want.

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  • criggie commented on timnterra's instructable Indoor Bike Trainer

    Consider building a small block for underneath the front wheel. By raising the bike back to level then you will feel less like a downhill.Fit a scrap tyre to the rear wheel - rollers are hard on tyres, and you may as well wear out an old one.+1 to getting the fan to cool you as well - road biking provides draught to cool you, I perspire like crazy when I stop at the lights or at the end of the ride. The cooling fan will help alleviate this and reduce the risk of overheating.Finally, time's moved on since this was posted. Zwift is worth looking into but you need a bunch more sensors.Or obey Velominati Rule5- get out and ride. If its scary, find a bunch to ride with for company and support :)

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  • criggie commented on carlitos's instructable Side by Side Bicycle

    Thoughts - if you set the crank up so the two "inside" feet were oppposite then you could slide the seat almost completely central and it would be easier to ride solo. You could also leave the original steering tube and arrange some kind of release for one of the handlebars to move it to the middle position again.As a 100 KG person I'd be terrified of the cantilevered seat support snapping off, bending, or even simply rotating under me. Two longer seat tubes would provide more structure, but the framing would increase heel strike risk. As is, the rear of my inside thigh could touch the horizontal seat post/beam.Who has control of the brakes/gears?And a non-technical question, who is "legally" in control, should there be any problems?

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  • criggie commented on mikeasaurus's instructable horse bike

    I've seen one of these with wheels that had off-center hubs and were out of phase. So at slow speeds the horse did a kind-of gallop. Would have been hideous to ride at speed though.

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