I've done this for years, but I have the lamp behind me and shining straight up illuminating a fluorescent flag on a pole from below. My bike is a recumbent, so visibility is even more important. The flag flaps about in the wind and is visible from all directions.This works very nicely on a normal urban street at night and works stunningly well on an unlit road in the dark.My next plan is to build a different UV light that runs on 18V because I have a drill battery running one set of white front and red rear lights.
I did this - mine now has 2x Sony 1200 mAH batteries instead of the original 900 mAH batteries. Yeah the label on the outside was lies stating 2100 mAH for the pack... in series the mAH capacity does not sum.
Speed. Don't spend ages heating the battery. Use a tiny bit of liquid flux on the battery terminal, and pre-solder the metal straps. Tip of iron should be 2-3 seconds on the battery at most.
Repacking 7.2V NiCD Drill Battery With Lithium 18650View Instructable »
I did somethign very similar with an old 7.2V ryobi. Two 3.6V 18650 batteries was a perfect voltage, and the physical space was just right. However there was no BMS used. Instead I left the battery pack wide open and simply swap the cells out when they need charging.Battery dropped from 342g to 143g so under half the weight, and the pack went from 2Ah rated to 9Ah rated (minus the usual chinese brown-number factor)
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Excellent observation - I was taught the same.I'm going to guess its so the blade hits the work as vertically as possible. If he had the blade just poking through the top of the work, then it would result in a curved cut, and the workpiece would be larger diameter on the top vs the bottom. Flipping it and trimming again would leave a V profile on the outside.Perhaps this technique would produce a more-squared result on a bandsaw, but we don't always have access to every tool we want.
Consider building a small block for underneath the front wheel. By raising the bike back to level then you will feel less like a downhill.Fit a scrap tyre to the rear wheel - rollers are hard on tyres, and you may as well wear out an old one.+1 to getting the fan to cool you as well - road biking provides draught to cool you, I perspire like crazy when I stop at the lights or at the end of the ride. The cooling fan will help alleviate this and reduce the risk of overheating.Finally, time's moved on since this was posted. Zwift is worth looking into but you need a bunch more sensors.Or obey Velominati Rule5- get out and ride. If its scary, find a bunch to ride with for company and support :)
Thoughts - if you set the crank up so the two "inside" feet were oppposite then you could slide the seat almost completely central and it would be easier to ride solo. You could also leave the original steering tube and arrange some kind of release for one of the handlebars to move it to the middle position again.As a 100 KG person I'd be terrified of the cantilevered seat support snapping off, bending, or even simply rotating under me. Two longer seat tubes would provide more structure, but the framing would increase heel strike risk. As is, the rear of my inside thigh could touch the horizontal seat post/beam.Who has control of the brakes/gears?And a non-technical question, who is "legally" in control, should there be any problems?
I've seen one of these with wheels that had off-center hubs and were out of phase. So at slow speeds the horse did a kind-of gallop. Would have been hideous to ride at speed though.