damoelld

I figured that I didn't need to include a photo of the spray nozzle as that would have been the next photo (if I included it), so no you didn't miss anything :)

thanks!I have plans to close in the tanks at the end of summer with basically a mini shed :)

here was another good source for rainwater harvesting I found.https://www.cmhc-schl.gc.ca/odpub/pdf/67925.pdf

https://www.cmhc-schl.gc.ca/odpub/pdf/67925.pdf

It's true that you can build a solar supplied system that is strong enough to run an entire household. The key to building my system was cost effectiveness not finding the absolute most advanced component that will do the same job as the cheaper one. This makes it attainable by all. While you are reiterating the safety points I've made in the instructable, they can never be stated enough, so feel free to say them as many times as you want as some people don't read the entire Instructable or replies to previous comments and safety is important. I just ask that any comments be backed by an explanation and not an ambiguous remark. It would a safe to say that a car is dangerous, but everything must be put into context so that people understand why. Your system sounds larger scale than the one…

It's true that you can build a solar supplied system that is strong enough to run an entire household. The key to building my system was cost effectiveness not finding the absolute most advanced component that will do the same job as the cheaper one. This makes it attainable by all. While you are reiterating the safety points I've made in the instructable, they can never be stated enough, so feel free to say them as many times as you want as some people don't read the entire Instructable or replies to previous comments and safety is important. I just ask that any comments be backed by an explanation and not an ambiguous remark. It would a safe to say that a car is dangerous, but everything must be put into context so that people understand why. Your system sounds larger scale than the one I've built, why don't you make an Instructable to cater to everyone who wants the 'binford' version?

Google 'shutflo' and it should give you the manufacturers website and then you can find a local distributor in your area. Cheers

I agree, and will be upgrading the primary filter

Instructable updated with photos and links for connecting parts.Enjoy

Unfortunately these tanks are not designed for burial. The type that are cost significantly more. As for copper, I'm not sure as to the cleansing properties but it would not be cheap :)

Good point and I was thinking along the same lines. I will be using some of the leftover metal roofing from the gardenshed build and making a 'mini' shed around the water barrels at the end of the summer.

I think I have a photo of the individual components before I assembled it if I can find it I will upload it. Cheers

I would please ask that you refrain from putting misinformation up that could negatively affect someones opinion of solar power. Cloudy days do not put a strain on a solar system, the solar system still produces electricity in lower light, just less. Try this for yourself with a multimeter on DC volts and the input leads on the solar panel output. This is also a good way to 'aim' your solar panel to the direction that receives the most sun at that time of day. More sun= higher voltage. Cover or turn the panel and the voltage decreases. Open battery terminals are also only a hazard if they are in an open area that is potentially subjected to contaminants (liquid or solid) as these can lead to 'tracking' (where the battery finds a minor conductive path) or where they can directly contact …

I would please ask that you refrain from putting misinformation up that could negatively affect someones opinion of solar power. Cloudy days do not put a strain on a solar system, the solar system still produces electricity in lower light, just less. Try this for yourself with a multimeter on DC volts and the input leads on the solar panel output. This is also a good way to 'aim' your solar panel to the direction that receives the most sun at that time of day. More sun= higher voltage. Cover or turn the panel and the voltage decreases. Open battery terminals are also only a hazard if they are in an open area that is potentially subjected to contaminants (liquid or solid) as these can lead to 'tracking' (where the battery finds a minor conductive path) or where they can directly contact a conductive material creating a short. My battery in this system is located under the bench in a frontless enclosure with top removed for photos. Do not forget that when a lead acid battery charges it produces hydrogen gas which needs to be able to vent to outside. Do not store or subject your battery to direct sunlight or heat as this will cause your battery to dry out.Also, make sure that if you need to top up the electrolyte levels in a non-maintenance free battery, to only used distilled water so as not to introduce contaminants into your battery acid and reduce it's longevity.Any acid on or around the battery should be neutralized with baking soda first and then rinsed away with water before drying my.All of these things fall under preventative maintenance, the same way you maintain your car. If you don't change your oil or maintain your battery in this case, your system won't last as long, be as efficient, or could potentially create hazards.

I honestly can't see why you're fixated on graduated piping, and for the distance being utilized will have negligible effect. As I said I do have a 25-30 foot stream at the end of the hose. The pump is a proven design used worldwide for RV 's so has proven its worth for dependability. The alligator clamps are from the solar panel only. And if you look close you will see the schematic where fusing is provided, albeit absent from the photo. I can assure you, as I have been an electrical technician for 30 years, there is nothing 'Mickey mouse' about any of the connections. But most importantly, this is a garden shed, some rain barrels and a hose for all intensive purposes. There is absolutely no need to get more involved than it is. But I do thank you for your interest as it voices questions…

I honestly can't see why you're fixated on graduated piping, and for the distance being utilized will have negligible effect. As I said I do have a 25-30 foot stream at the end of the hose. The pump is a proven design used worldwide for RV 's so has proven its worth for dependability. The alligator clamps are from the solar panel only. And if you look close you will see the schematic where fusing is provided, albeit absent from the photo. I can assure you, as I have been an electrical technician for 30 years, there is nothing 'Mickey mouse' about any of the connections. But most importantly, this is a garden shed, some rain barrels and a hose for all intensive purposes. There is absolutely no need to get more involved than it is. But I do thank you for your interest as it voices questions others may have had but not known how to pose.

https://www.irrigationtutorials.com/using-a-smaller-pipe-to-increase-water-pressure/

excellent and recommended idea if I was using the water for consumption. But then I would also have to connect to household power as the electrical demand for a sterilizer would be more than an economical solar system could support

Each tank has its own independent ball valve and additionally I installed a ball valve (the red handle) that cuts off both tanks from the pump line. This is also in place to isolate the pump line for winter draining.

In my version 1 water barrel system I used a downspout diverter, and while it did work, it too had its limitations. The main reason I did not use them for this application is cost. 4 downspouts = 4 diverters. I chose the cheaper, and simpler route this time. And so far, the combination of the primary screen and secondary filter (prior to the pump) have enabled pristine water only to be run through the pump. There have been no maintenance headaches in either the version 1 or current version of the systems. And no matter how efficient a filter I had on the primary, I will always have a secondary filter prior to the pump as in my experience it is always better to have a filter as close to the pump as possible. It is after all, your last chance to prevent any contaminant from damaging the pum…

In my version 1 water barrel system I used a downspout diverter, and while it did work, it too had its limitations. The main reason I did not use them for this application is cost. 4 downspouts = 4 diverters. I chose the cheaper, and simpler route this time. And so far, the combination of the primary screen and secondary filter (prior to the pump) have enabled pristine water only to be run through the pump. There have been no maintenance headaches in either the version 1 or current version of the systems. And no matter how efficient a filter I had on the primary, I will always have a secondary filter prior to the pump as in my experience it is always better to have a filter as close to the pump as possible. It is after all, your last chance to prevent any contaminant from damaging the pump or introduction to your water output side.

Each foot of head pressure will only give you aprox .5 psi. So to get the equivalent pressure of what my pump puts out (55 psi) I would need to raise the platform about 120 ft. While it would be cool to have a water tower in my backyard, and a cool place to watch the woods from, it would not be practical. :)