author

danox574

Inbox View Profile
6Comments

Tell us about yourself!

  • Project Diva FT/CT Arcade Controller

    The USB provides the 5V, and the Brook Universal board (which is what I ended up using although it was a bit of a waste) does have a USBVCC out and a VCC out. The VCC is 3.3V, but the USBVCC is 5V and this is powering all four LED bulbs. I ran the 5V through the power switch so I can turn them off if I want, but I've never found a reason to do so. I hooked up all 4 and the pull was about 100mA. USB provides 500mA and the Brook board itself is under 80mA when being used, so plenty of power. I have the 12VDC plug installed but it isn't wired to anything. My bottom panel has gotten a bit scratched over time in the photo, but it was designed to really.

    View Instructable »
  • Actually, found the bulb: Super Bright Frosted Pinball LED Lights (Base type: 555 Wedge Base, Colors: Cool White)

    Bulbs came from NiftyLED.com but I cannot find what I used - I think it was the super bright frosted ($.80/ea)Decal Paper was from Amazon, I did have access to a very high end laser, so I'm not sure if these work with lower heat and would likely have problems with inkjet https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ZLVF698/ref=...

    View Instructable »
  • I went through about 4 different LED bulbs. Most just didn't light up the button in a even way and had a really clear hot spot of light. Tomorrow, in response to the author, I will get various additional photos of the top, wiring, and show the lights and try to find out where this particular set came from. The bulbs are equivalent to a 555 pinball bulb, which is not the 12V 194 recommended, but a 6.3V bulb. Unfortunately, the draw is too high for normal 555 bulbs to be run off the 500mA limit (of which about 60 is eaten up by the Brook board). The LEDs bulbs were drawing 20-25mA so they worked well. Also, my decals were cake, no curling, and I will post the reference I used for those (they came from Amazon). I happened to have a laser printer though, and those do work a bit better …

    see more »

    I went through about 4 different LED bulbs. Most just didn't light up the button in a even way and had a really clear hot spot of light. Tomorrow, in response to the author, I will get various additional photos of the top, wiring, and show the lights and try to find out where this particular set came from. The bulbs are equivalent to a 555 pinball bulb, which is not the 12V 194 recommended, but a 6.3V bulb. Unfortunately, the draw is too high for normal 555 bulbs to be run off the 500mA limit (of which about 60 is eaten up by the Brook board). The LEDs bulbs were drawing 20-25mA so they worked well. Also, my decals were cake, no curling, and I will post the reference I used for those (they came from Amazon). I happened to have a laser printer though, and those do work a bit better because they don't need sealant. I think the inkjet decal paper causes the ink to sit on top, where the heat actually puts the ink into the laser decal paper.

    View Instructable »
  • Thank you. It took a couple months to get everything. It took a while to find an LED bulb that was diffuse enough to light things up. Decals took a few tries to get right. A lot of trial and error along the way that makes DIY projects fun. The wiring when you actually get everything was fairly easy to sort out.

    View Instructable »
  • Project Diva FT/CT Arcade Controller

    I was able to put this together fairly easily, but I have made controllers before. The CAD files were extremely useful. I added a bottom with fasteners that go through the corners and corner brackets, I am using a Brook universal fighting board (so location of holes was changed) and LEDs powered off the Vcc on the Brook board instead of incandescant bulbs. The holes in the side panels were great for L3/R3 and the PS button, keeping options, share, and the touchpad buttons for marking favorites in the game on the top surface.

    View Instructable »