datajunkie55

I haven't used it on wood but have on leather. What I did was tape down one end to hold in place but let me lift up and check. If you have a heat press, there are probably videos online showing how to use a laser print with one. It's been a while since I've done this. I think I used a fairly low heat, kept the iron moving slowly and applied some pressure.

Have you ever repeated this with ones done at higher heat for big cracks with low heat to get both? I wonder if after cracking, these could be soaked in some sort of dye. I think this is how a lot of 'fake' druzy quartz is made.

The heat range is quite broad. Do you find a difference in the cracking effects from higher or lower heat?

Excellent!

Try just ironing it on instead, same process, use FRESH laser print, put face down, use an iron on the back of the paper. This remelts the laser ink.

Erynne, I saw a cosplay type instructable for making a mask with spiraling antelope type horns. I think it used something like worbla-fabric that can be shaped with heat, for the mold, cut a slit for a one part mold, and then used expanding foam to fill it. But I think this would be too bubbly--leaving a textured surface as well as being brittle. Some of the powdered paper maches have water activated hardeners plus give better detail and durability. May be lighter weight but I've not worked with either enough to recall. Have fun! I've been a newbie so often as I have endless curiosity that I can now dive in with fair confidence that I can learn how to do it well enough. Going to a hobby/craft supply store can give ideas on how to DIY products less expensively by going next to a hardware...

Erynne, I saw a cosplay type instructable for making a mask with spiraling antelope type horns. I think it used something like worbla-fabric that can be shaped with heat, for the mold, cut a slit for a one part mold, and then used expanding foam to fill it. But I think this would be too bubbly--leaving a textured surface as well as being brittle. Some of the powdered paper maches have water activated hardeners plus give better detail and durability. May be lighter weight but I've not worked with either enough to recall. Have fun! I've been a newbie so often as I have endless curiosity that I can now dive in with fair confidence that I can learn how to do it well enough. Going to a hobby/craft supply store can give ideas on how to DIY products less expensively by going next to a hardware/building supply store. Instead of using art grade flexible modeling paste for a dimensional effect on some plastic plant pots, I used a waterproof spackling paste that cures to a similar texture. May not be as durable but the pot itself won't last that long. I'm upcycling some inexpensive planters. Many art grade products have the same basic ingredients, charge more and while they may be more durable or have some better qualities, for my needs now I can get by with cheaper materials and have more $ left to buy more things to play with. Good luck!

I'll be trying this shortly. Might also try mixing in some hot melt adhesive powder I have. The sort used as thermal adhesives. Basically a hot melt glue stick or sheet in a fine powder form. I suspect only a small amount would be needed to increase self sticking. I will need to check the melting point of both first. I have instamorph plastic on hand.