david.roseman

Ah, well, if the can is cool already, this would at least KEEP it cool!

Interesting concept, but highly inefficient. 1: It's easy to cool air, but using air at the top of the liquid to cool the entire liquid, will take hours.2: Once you move the container, water will end up in that fan, either destroying it (shorting) right away, or very quickly (corrosion)3: best idea i can come up with, is put a simple heatsink, sealed on the bottom, or side of the liquid. There, you will be cooling the liquid itself, not the air on top of it. No fan, means less power draw, and less things to break. Obviously, you can't do this with a vacuum thermos, and it'll be hard to seal....but at least it's an idea.

Just want to point out, that those hubs and wheels have a max rating of 55mph. If you want to go normal highway speeds, you need to upgrade to a larger wheel, and most likely 5 lug hub.Now, the question is.....55mph max speed at max LOAD, or any load?

1: Neat looking board.2: Foam is not produced by "burning oil".....3: There are major restrictions on any VOCs going into the enviroment, to collect gasses.4: Using hemp fabric won't help, because you still need resin.5: Yes, bio-resins are very expensive, and not as good as traditional ones. Work in progress, but we are far from it. Even many "bio resins" only replace a key compoent or two with a bio source.

What is the normal amount of liquid/agar amounts? Saying "juice of one orange" is 1/4tsp of Agar isn't exactly a stable measurment.

Does the charing come off when yo touch it? Do you seal it, or use as is?

You are kidding, right? Not only is solar cheap, large scale farms are helping with this, but there are also MANY solar thermal power generators. You might want to hang out on Wiki for awhile and read up.

1: You need to keep all the wires away from the front of the cells. If the cells get any shade from the wire, their efficiency of the entire module goes down.2: Covering it loosely in a plastic bag that is not optically clear, also causes a great deal of power loss. You are also introducing condensation, which will corrode both the cells and the wiring. 3: Why only produce 5v output? You won't be able to trickle charge much with that. If you wire large cells together in series then you can up the voltage per the wattage of the cells

Minus the laser. And cutting. But there are solar powered lasers already, but that is for another day.....

I meant the headlights. They are not bright, they will however, glare and annoy anyone else on the road. halogen headlights are designed only for filament halogen bulbs. No LED will ever replicate that, OR be bright enough.

Correct, mostly. This is not a COB light, this could be considered a corncob light though. Very different types of bulbs!!!However, COB lights are used WIDELY in LED lighting. Almost every LED downlight is going to be a COB, along with many MR16 type bulbs, work lights, and even flashlights. Plus there are literally tons of normal light bulbs that use some sort of COB tech, including the LED filament style bulbs. Even headlight bulbs!! (ps: one should NEVER EVER EVER USE THEM!!!)

Close. http://www.aamsco.com/light-bulbs/led-corncob/But yeah, the terms are confusing. however, COB, vs cob might help, if anyone grammars it correctly. ahaha

Decades? It's a very new technology. White LEDs are decades old!! COB type LEDs are about 5-8yrs.

So, putting 20v into a car charger rated to input 12v is safe and effective? Has this melted down yet?

"there is no cost to produce them" only if you steal the buckets and resin.

Exactly. Not carbon fiber, so don't call it carbon.

Or a color changing LED might be easier. Then you aren't stuck with one single color Storm Glass.

Holy overkill 20,000 batman. First off, thank you for adding a disclaimer that it's ILLEGAL to distill in almost all parts of the world (curse you NZ!!!). Permits for home-distilling is rare and VERY expensive most places.Second, you shouldn't distill beer. Hops oils will contaminate everything and make things taste like arse. Third, the amount of methanol in beer/wine when distilling is very small. Even if you drink the entire batch of spirits, you'd get a hangover and one nasty headache. That INCLUDES drinking the fores and tails. Removing fores is a good way to get rid of things. Keep in mind, only fruit based mashes will have methanol in them. Grain, not so much. Either way, the common misconception about going blind is due to the US Govt actually poisoning spirits du...

Holy overkill 20,000 batman. First off, thank you for adding a disclaimer that it's ILLEGAL to distill in almost all parts of the world (curse you NZ!!!). Permits for home-distilling is rare and VERY expensive most places.Second, you shouldn't distill beer. Hops oils will contaminate everything and make things taste like arse. Third, the amount of methanol in beer/wine when distilling is very small. Even if you drink the entire batch of spirits, you'd get a hangover and one nasty headache. That INCLUDES drinking the fores and tails. Removing fores is a good way to get rid of things. Keep in mind, only fruit based mashes will have methanol in them. Grain, not so much. Either way, the common misconception about going blind is due to the US Govt actually poisoning spirits during the prohibition to give them an edge, and get people to stop drinking. That, and moonshiners would ADD adjuncts to their spirits that are cheaper and legal, so they can have more volume to sell. It's VERY VERY hard to get majorly sick or kill yourself by distilling in a safe manor. And if you drink that much, you are gonna be wicked sick anyway, and prob' should seek help from needing that much alcohol in you!!Fourth, holy overkill batman!! HAHAHA.Also, if you use copper ONLY, with lead free solder (I guarantee you, that finned condenser was used with lead based solder, unless it was used explicitly for beverage cooling), you won't have to remove any weird metal ions.... This is the first time I've ever heard anyone even mention doing something like this!!!and finally, please, FOR THE LOVE OF GOD, please make sure that NO plastic ever comes in contact with alcohol vapor, or spirit. If you wnat something leaching into your product that will cause health issues, is plastic. Alcohol is a powerful solvent, and plastic WILL degrade into the vapor, wash, and final spirit. All seals should be teflon (high temp neutral material that is safe for high temp alcohol use), or flour paste.

Ah, good point on the condenser. As long as it's a straight tube, only the OUTSIDE would have been soldered.

Nice one! I suggest a few things. If you are to have the coldside heatsink outside of the main cooling area, I'd insulate that duct holder, because it's still in the same area as the hot side. Also, this will cause condensation inside, so prepare to wipe down the inside once and awhile. maybe add a slope to the bottom, and drill a small drain hole, and then keep a cup under it.

Where do you get the LCD? I see 100s of "Battery level LCD" on google. What voltage is this designed for? 3? What resistor do i use to change the input voltage, so I know it's correct? So much missing information!

It's blue. White LEDs do not use UV LEDs.

No, seeing that white LEDs use blue dies, not UV.

You are insane. And the first person I've seen take apart an LED just to rebond the die!!!! hahaha. My hands would never be able to be steady enough for that.

To what? Cook the paper? *facepalm*

Um...this isn't an air CONDITIONER.This adds humidity to the air! This is a DIY humidifier. Air conditioners extract moisture, condense it and let it drip outside.

This. Burning the wire does nothing. How could it?also, the SIM card has NOTHING to do with the reception or signal, or antennas....they are chip cards that signify to the phone, what carrier to use!!! Sigh.People.