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9Instructables56,617Views48CommentsJoined August 15th, 2011

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  • dcolemans commented on dcolemans's instructable DIY Submersible ROV10 days ago
    DIY Submersible ROV

    Sorry. I've never used PS1 or PS2 joysticks.

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  • dcolemans's instructable Vertical Planter Box's weekly stats: 2 months ago
    • Vertical Planter Box
      3,577 views
      49 favorites
      1 comments
  • dcolemans entered Vertical Planter Box in the Gardening Contest contest 2 months ago
  • dcolemans's instructable Reupholstered Banquette's weekly stats: 2 months ago
    • Reupholstered Banquette
      130 views
      0 favorites
      2 comments
  • dcolemans commented on dcolemans's instructable Reupholstered Banquette2 months ago
    Reupholstered Banquette

    Thanks. It was comforting to have the work space with an expert available. But it was still scary to cut into the leather for the first time.

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  • dcolemans entered Reupholstered Banquette in the Leather Challenge contest 2 months ago
  • dcolemans commented on dcolemans's instructable DIY Submersible ROV2 months ago
    DIY Submersible ROV

    If you plan on using brushless motors, you need to change motor variables and setup in the subrun tab, and you need to change how the motors are driven in the runThrusters tab. You will need to study how my motors are run. Then you need to do research to see how to control your motors. Sorry I can't be more help.

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  • dcolemans commented on dcolemans's instructable DIY Submersible ROV2 months ago
    DIY Submersible ROV

    For the OSD shield, look in Amazon for "OSD Shield for Arduino". It uses the MAX7456.h library. I used the default font, but I think there are ways to modify that.As for the motors, brushless would typically be easier, with only a PWM value to control each brushless ESC. They are usually made to be RC controlled, so the Arduino just has to give it a pulsewidth of something like 1500 for stop, less for reverse, and more for forward. The range is usually within 1000 to 2000 microseconds. For example motor.writeMicroseconds(1800); for forward. This has to be on an Arduino pin that does PWM. Brushless ESCs often have jumpers and sometimes programming that controls how reverse and braking work. Sometimes they insist that the motor be stopped before they will recognize a re...

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    For the OSD shield, look in Amazon for "OSD Shield for Arduino". It uses the MAX7456.h library. I used the default font, but I think there are ways to modify that.As for the motors, brushless would typically be easier, with only a PWM value to control each brushless ESC. They are usually made to be RC controlled, so the Arduino just has to give it a pulsewidth of something like 1500 for stop, less for reverse, and more for forward. The range is usually within 1000 to 2000 microseconds. For example motor.writeMicroseconds(1800); for forward. This has to be on an Arduino pin that does PWM. Brushless ESCs often have jumpers and sometimes programming that controls how reverse and braking work. Sometimes they insist that the motor be stopped before they will recognize a reverse signal. Good luck.

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  • dcolemans commented on dcolemans's instructable DIY Submersible ROV3 months ago
    DIY Submersible ROV

    The ROV has a slight positive bouyancy, so it floats on its own. But when you work the controls to Dive, then let go, the up/down motors come on as needed to keep it at a constant depth.

    The thruster mount prints as one piece and the bilge pump cartridge fits in it. The propellers print in multiple pieces.

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  • dcolemans commented on dcolemans's instructable DIY Submersible ROV3 months ago
    DIY Submersible ROV

    You can use Wi-Fi to transmit from the control box to a tablet or such. But Wi-Fi from the sub in a no go. No radio signals through water. Sent the video fee up the tether.

    Glad you got it figured out. Doesn't sound like any great advantage using the stereo camera anyway since you'd only be using one side. 100 foot tether huh. Ar you going to poke a cat5/6 cable through the polypropylene rope as I did. It was pretty comical, having the tether draped though the garage, out the driveway, and partly into the street, all the time poking with the ball point pen "fid" and massaging the bunched up rope down the line. Your Blue Robotics stuff sounds great. Maybe you can buy a tether ready to go.

    Not a circuit diagram per se, but I did add a wiring "diagram' or outline. See Electronics step SubDoc.txt.

    Wow! Coming along nicely. The rs485s are a pain. I had occasion to revisit them yesterday and found a pretty good diagram reminding me of how I did it. My telemetry wasn't working so I suspected the rs485s. In the end it was a bad connection and I had to use my spare tether cable pair. I added a wiring diagram to the Instructable (See Electronics step SubDoc.txt). You know of course that pins 5 & 6 on the Uno are serial via Software Serial. And on the rs485s, you have to put 5v+ on the enable pins to send, and Ground on the enable pins to receive. You say you do see telemetry data on the serial monitor--- you mean on the Uno? If so, that would mean the RS485 is working and the problem is to do with the Uno sending text to the OSD. Are you using a MAX7456 OSD?Misc nosy questi...

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    Wow! Coming along nicely. The rs485s are a pain. I had occasion to revisit them yesterday and found a pretty good diagram reminding me of how I did it. My telemetry wasn't working so I suspected the rs485s. In the end it was a bad connection and I had to use my spare tether cable pair. I added a wiring diagram to the Instructable (See Electronics step SubDoc.txt). You know of course that pins 5 & 6 on the Uno are serial via Software Serial. And on the rs485s, you have to put 5v+ on the enable pins to send, and Ground on the enable pins to receive. You say you do see telemetry data on the serial monitor--- you mean on the Uno? If so, that would mean the RS485 is working and the problem is to do with the Uno sending text to the OSD. Are you using a MAX7456 OSD?Misc nosy questions: How long a tether are you going for? Where are you going to put your battery? How are you going to seal the end of your acrylic dry tube?

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  • dcolemans commented on charlesglorioso's instructable StreetWriter3 months ago
    StreetWriter

    This is a great project. Best of luck in the contest.

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  • dcolemans commented on dcolemans's instructable DIY Submersible ROV3 months ago
    DIY Submersible ROV

    Sorry. I don't have an actual circuit diagram.

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  • dcolemans commented on dcolemans's instructable DIY Submersible ROV3 months ago
    DIY Submersible ROV

    Glad you're making progress. I'd love to see pictures! Re. the limitation of 8 channels - the best way in my opinion is to assign one of the non-joystick channels to be a "mode switch". In one mode it would mean the joysticks control navigating the ROV. In another position it would mean joysticks do camera control, arm control, or whatever. You wouldn't be able to navigate while doing this stuff, but I suspect you wouldn't want to or need to. By the way, unless you have separate camera panning, turning left/right does the same thing doesn't it?

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  • dcolemans commented on dcolemans's instructable DIY Submersible ROV4 months ago
    DIY Submersible ROV

    My guess is that acrylic tubes are extruded acrylic versus cast acrylic. It tends to be cheaper and more available. But I see no disadvantage to polycarbonate tubing. 1/4 walls sound quite stout, at least for lake depths. Polycarbonate will machine nicely (e.g. cut threads). I'd love to see how you are putting it all together.

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  • dcolemans's instructable RC Vintage Fire Truck's weekly stats: 5 months ago
    • RC Vintage Fire Truck
      115 views
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      2 comments
  • dcolemans entered RC Vintage Fire Truck in the Toys Contest contest 5 months ago
  • dcolemans followed charlesglorioso5 months ago
      • Christmas Light Tree
  • dcolemans commented on charlesglorioso's instructable Christmas Light Tree5 months ago
    Christmas Light Tree

    Very nice and festive. And all from "inventory"!

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  • dcolemans commented on Johan Link's instructable Ball Balancing PID System5 months ago
    Ball Balancing PID System

    What an elegant and impressive project! I congratulate you and I think you deserve to win something in the contest. I was trying to see your logic for balancing and glanced though the Arduino and the Python code. I saw where the Arduino code is strictly for running the servos and does so based on serial input. I think it would have been helpful in the Instructable to outline the logic used in the Python including the fact that you are using OpenCV logic for the camera to find and locate the ball. There are references to "mouse" but I suspect you are using mouse logic for something else.

    I've been working with an alternative to OpenCV, which is OpenMV. This is a camera combined with a Python microprocessor and has many built in computer vision functions such as finding a colored blob, deriving a line... I'm thinking that your project could be done with an OpenMV cam and eliminate the PC. $65US or something like that.

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  • dcolemans commented on CHARLESCRANFORD's instructable Giant Gee Haw Whimmy Diddle5 months ago
    Giant Gee Haw Whimmy Diddle

    Very goofy. I love it.

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  • dcolemans followed Johan Link5 months ago
      • Ball Balancing PID System
      • Bokeh Shapes
      • Control Your Computer With Your Head!
  • dcolemans's instructable Tahoe Glow's weekly stats: 6 months ago
    • Tahoe Glow
      302 views
      2 favorites
      1 comments
  • dcolemans entered Tahoe Glow in the Make it Glow Contest 2018 contest 6 months ago
  • dcolemans posted an instructable Tahoe Glow6 months ago
  • dcolemans commented on Junophor's instructable UV-Fluorescence Steampunk Lamp7 months ago
    UV-Fluorescence Steampunk Lamp

    Very cool project. I love all things Steampunk. Nicely done.

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  • dcolemans commented on dcolemans's instructable DIY Submersible ROV8 months ago
    DIY Submersible ROV

    I used them straight from Thingiverse https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:639240. This link looks suspect here so within Thingiverse just query SOAR Propeller and pick the three bladed one.

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  • dcolemans commented on 271828-'s instructable Brushless Gimbal Balancing Robot8 months ago
    Brushless Gimbal Balancing Robot

    I was working on it when the smoke came out. I was struggling with using I2c to communicate from the OpenMV camera to the Arduino.

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  • dcolemans's entry Pirate Ship Tree House is a winner in the Tiny Home Contest contest 8 months ago
  • dcolemans's entry Pirate Ship Tree House is a finalist in the Tiny Home Contest contest 8 months ago
  • Arduino Robotic Bartender - 3D Printable & Bluetooth

    Very cool and well documented project. I attempted an automated bartender in 2014 but was only partly successful. My intent was to have a portable setup, all built into a suitcase, and with a steampunk flair. I used pumps and a scale to regulate how much liquid to pour. The scale was the problem area since it was vulnerable to moisture. Here's a pic.

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  • dcolemans commented on dcolemans's instructable Pirate Ship Tree House9 months ago
    Pirate Ship Tree House

    I didn't look that hard at what the restrictions might be and never asked (forgiveness being easier than permission). But I did know that it had to be under xx square feet. I never heard from anyone official. Fortunately the neighbors who live closest also have kids, and I interacted with them some during the build process. Their kids came over and tried it out, etc.

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  • dcolemans commented on dcolemans's instructable DIY Submersible ROV9 months ago
    DIY Submersible ROV

    Just saw your question...The depth sensor is connected via SPI. I found the code somewhere, and it's all in depthSensor.ino tab.Hope that helps.

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  • dcolemans's instructable Pirate Ship Tree House's weekly stats: 9 months ago
    • Pirate Ship Tree House
      11,601 views
      128 favorites
      29 comments
  • dcolemans commented on 271828-'s instructable Brushless Gimbal Balancing Robot10 months ago
    Brushless Gimbal Balancing Robot

    Very nice project and very cool design. I learned a lot following in your footsteps, in particular use of the timer interrupt to get more precise timing. It's amazing what you made the little gimbal controller do! I have a link to a video of mine in the I Made It section.

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  • dcolemans made the instructable Brushless Gimbal Balancing Robot10 months ago
    Brushless Gimbal Balancing Robot

    https://youtu.be/WdgefVsIm0w I hope the video works here since I don't have any pics of the thing.

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  • dcolemans made the instructable Brushless Gimbal Balancing Robot10 months ago
    Brushless Gimbal Balancing Robot

    Very cool design. Amazing what you can put into one little gimbal controller board. I added an OpenMV camera on top in hopes of getting it to autonomously follow a line. I was struggling trying to get the camera to talk to the Arduino via I2C when the board burned out. So here it is as far as I got.

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  • dcolemans commented on dcolemans's instructable Pirate Ship Tree House10 months ago
    Pirate Ship Tree House

    That's why they invented grandkids - even step-grandkids. You could build one on spec. (a treehouse, not a grandkid).

    It's been over a year and the trees seem fine. It's the treehouse that's eventually going to be torn apart by the trees growing.

    Yes. One inch diameter of course. Needed special order. They don't stock these at the local hardware store.

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  • dcolemans entered Pirate Ship Tree House in the Tiny Home Contest contest 10 months ago
  • dcolemans's entry DIY Submersible ROV is a winner in the Make it Move Contest contest 11 months ago
  • dcolemans's entry DIY Submersible ROV is a finalist in the Make it Move Contest contest 12 months ago
  • dcolemans commented on dcolemans's instructable DIY Submersible ROV1 year ago
    DIY Submersible ROV

    I think that the need to recalibrate at power up is the nature of the beast. My mobile phone compass also requires moving it around to calibrate when the app is brought up. I read somewhere that this is normal and perhaps unavoidable. After I power up (connect the battery) I just dangle my sub and turn in 360 before putting it in the water. But I can see that for a ground based rover it would be awkward, more awkward for a big one.For the non-automatic 9 axis compasses, I have seen code that does a calibration at the beginning. I've not been successful with that. Good luck.

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  • dcolemans's instructable DIY Submersible ROV's weekly stats: 1 year ago
    • DIY Submersible ROV
      2,380 views
      74 favorites
      19 comments
  • dcolemans commented on DIYunderwater's instructable ROV Quard Patrol System1 year ago
    ROV Quard Patrol System

    Thank you for the response. Wi-Fi enabled by temporary connection between ROV and wire to the surface has got me thinking...

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  • dcolemans's instructable Gas Heated Hot Tub's weekly stats: 1 year ago
    • Gas Heated Hot Tub
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  • dcolemans commented on dcolemans's instructable DIY Submersible ROV1 year ago
    DIY Submersible ROV

    For the acrylic dome, do a search in Amazon for Acrylic Dome 4". It was $12.99.Re. the RC, the receiver I use is one that has a separate PPM output. You have to look for that when you buy a receiver. To decode the PPM signal, there's pretty good discussion in Instructables here https://www.instructables.com/id/Reading-RC-Receiv... And many other sources if you Google "decoding PPM with Arduino". The only extra trick I needed was that stray erroneous signals would come in and cause the thrusters to twitch and spasm. The prefect solution was to use a Median Filter https://github.com/daPhoosa/MedianFilter to get rid of the extra high and extra low values. The filter takes the last 5 (in my case) readings, sorts them in value sequence, and gives you the center readin...

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    For the acrylic dome, do a search in Amazon for Acrylic Dome 4". It was $12.99.Re. the RC, the receiver I use is one that has a separate PPM output. You have to look for that when you buy a receiver. To decode the PPM signal, there's pretty good discussion in Instructables here https://www.instructables.com/id/Reading-RC-Receiv... And many other sources if you Google "decoding PPM with Arduino". The only extra trick I needed was that stray erroneous signals would come in and cause the thrusters to twitch and spasm. The prefect solution was to use a Median Filter https://github.com/daPhoosa/MedianFilter to get rid of the extra high and extra low values. The filter takes the last 5 (in my case) readings, sorts them in value sequence, and gives you the center reading. Hope this helps.

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  • dcolemans commented on Tustin High T-Tech's instructable First Person View RC Car1 year ago
    First Person View  RC Car

    Very cool project! Makes me want to do a VR goggle FPV project.

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  • dcolemans commented on DIYunderwater's instructable ROV Quard Patrol System1 year ago
    ROV Quard Patrol System

    Very interesting project. The induction charging and autonomous patrolling are impressive. Several questions though:Can you provide a few more details about how the wifi signal goes via "metal guide rings" and how this retrieves the video recording and allows re-programming the Arduino? Where does the video go after it "comes up" via wifi. Does someone manually scan 24 hours of recording to look for damage?What is the status of the project?

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  • dcolemans commented on dcolemans's instructable DIY Submersible ROV1 year ago
    DIY Submersible ROV

    Good old Amazon, where two day shipping has made me an impatient person. Here's the link to the 500 GPH cartridge https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001446X1Q/ref=o... If the link doesn't work, just search for Johnson Marine Pump Cartridge. BTW, the 500 GPH has the same dimensions as the 1000 GPH. I guess "cheap" is relative - compared to ready to go thrusters.

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  • dcolemans made the instructable DIY Submersible ROV1 year ago
    DIY Submersible ROV

    I see where you are headed with the mesh bag. Other folks have used wine corks for tether floats, but hey, we lucky folks with 3D printers... Good idea about hollow forms. Clip on would be better. They could be pretty skinny with thin plastic. Make a hole and shoot in some foam as you say. Float in pic is 30mm long.

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  • dcolemans commented on dcolemans's instructable DIY Submersible ROV1 year ago
    DIY Submersible ROV

    Thanks.

    It's a 10 Amp/Hr battery. Just observing the Ammeter, it draws 2 to 4 Amps only when it's pushing hard one direction or another. So based on the assumption one is not constantly travelling, it would only be drawing an average of 1 Amp, it should last several hours, say 5, taking it to 50%. That sounds optimistic though huh? Just playing around with it in the pool etc, the battery never seems to go down much. The voltage shown on the pics of the screen is not valid, not calibrated right.

    Re.filling the pipes with silicone: Why not just let it flood with water?You're right about risking the cable getting nicked. I hope it's well enough protected with the rope. The depth meter wires are individually potted but not the tether cable.You're right about the tether drooping down to the lake floor. If it all works well, I may try a longer tether at which time I'll try for positive buoyancy (maybe a larger poly rope). I've also read where folks have used cork floats strung along the tether, but that sounds like a mess. I'm not clear about how the light mesh bag approach would work... Would it uncoil as needed, coming out of the bag? Or is the bag more of a long sleeve?Re. salt water conductivity: It would be an easy experiment to dip a couple of terminals and see how cl...

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    Re.filling the pipes with silicone: Why not just let it flood with water?You're right about risking the cable getting nicked. I hope it's well enough protected with the rope. The depth meter wires are individually potted but not the tether cable.You're right about the tether drooping down to the lake floor. If it all works well, I may try a longer tether at which time I'll try for positive buoyancy (maybe a larger poly rope). I've also read where folks have used cork floats strung along the tether, but that sounds like a mess. I'm not clear about how the light mesh bag approach would work... Would it uncoil as needed, coming out of the bag? Or is the bag more of a long sleeve?Re. salt water conductivity: It would be an easy experiment to dip a couple of terminals and see how close they can get before they short out. My battery terminals are a good 2 inches apart. And maybe one could coat it all with waterproof goop. Then you'd need a reed switch inside the dry tube and a magnet on the outside.

    Thank you.

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  • dcolemans entered DIY Submersible ROV in the Make it Move Contest contest 1 year ago
  • dcolemans commented on dcolemans's instructable DIY Submersible ROV1 year ago
    DIY Submersible ROV

    Right now it's limited by the 50 foot tether. I've only had it to swimming pool depth so far. I don't know how much pressure it will withstand before it leaks. I think the seal around the acrylic dome is weakest point. The potting around the holes seems secure and the rubber hub-less connectors seem secure too.

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  • dcolemans commented on joesinstructables's instructable Snake Robot1 year ago
    Snake Robot

    Thanks for the reply. I guess I'll do some experimenting as soon as I can get the snake untethered (electronics and batteries onboard). I do want it to go as quickly as it can.

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  • dcolemans commented on joesinstructables's instructable Snake Robot1 year ago
    Snake Robot

    Very cool project. I am making a robot snake with 3d printed parts and am using your neat math for the serpentine motion. Question though, if you have a 12 segment snake (12 servos), why did you calculate angle of lag between segments using 11 as the divisor? I plan to increase my current 12 to 16 segments. Should I divide 2Pi by 15?

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  • dcolemans made the instructable Solar System Orrery (3D Printed)2 years ago
    Solar System Orrery (3D Printed)

    I did make it, but gave up trying to get the moon to go around. It's a wonderful design, quite thorough and well documented. I did enlarge the x&y dimensions of the gear arms by 1.5%. Also there was a bit too much reliance on superglue so I used set-screws to secure the gear arms and the body to the center shaft (threaded into the plastic). To mount the slip ring, I replaced the motor driven gear with a gear with riser and flange. Also I got fancy for Earth and used a beautiful little painted marble I bought on Ebay.

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  • dcolemans commented on Mixed Output's instructable Wifi Dot Matrix Sign2 years ago
    Wifi Dot Matrix Sign

    My dream is to have a heads up karaoke display in the car so I can sing while driving. My vague plan is to use an Arduino with MP3 module to send audio to the car's stereo and send synchonized text to the scrolling display on the dashboard. However most karaoke files are MP3 + a CDG video file. I'd need something like an SRT file where the timing and words are in text. Ideas?

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