Tell us about yourself!
Thank you!When it comes to voltage of the relay I found that 12V is the best choice. It goes like this: the energy output is the same for all relays but as energy is current*voltage the 5V relays deliver higher currents i.e. brighter light but at a lower voltage output. Since the LEDs are quite bright even at low currents but require a voltage of 3V to light up a 12V relay produces the 3V at much lower energy input or at lower speeds. The voltage increases with the velocity of the magnet. Bottom line in reality is that a 12V relay lights up the LEDs at lower speeds while the brightness difference is not noticeable. I did not try 24V relays but they may work even better.
That depends on the battery capacity and the chosen brightness but the way I built them it lasts at least 5 hours, maybe even 8.
Nice work!I did a similar thing but with more sophisticated electronics and cast in silicone and not epoxy so I never had that battery problem.I made the moulds with a 3D printer, it is quick and you can just cut away the plastic after moulding or sand it down and print a new one, highly recommended if you have access to a printer.This would also work great in combination with the electronics from my garden jar light, you should check it out: https://www.instructables.com/Colorful-Solar-Ga...
Colorful Solar Garden Jar LightView Instructable »
Make a Massironi Shelf
I don't think you schematic can be quite right... the power input only connects to pin 5 which is the comparator input, there must be another connection there. Two things you can do: -try lifting the pin 5 so it is no longer connected to the board. Drive it with a PWM from an arduino and see if that can dim an LED.-get the correct boards. they changed the type in the link, you can see that the photos on the DX page do not match the photos from the instructable. Last time I ordered these was over 3 years ago, they still had them then. You can get the correct ones here: http://www.dx.com/p/mr16-1-1w-320-350ma-constant-c...but they are for 350mA, you need to change the current sensing resistor on the board to 0.3Ohm to get them up to 700mA, the rest of the board is the same.
I found this: https://www.mikrocontroller.net/articles/Datei:Pow...If this is what the circuit looks like it may work. The PWM signal is probably inverted, I am not sure if the software can be modified. The easiest would be to get the correct drivers. They are pretty standard on the chinese market, you probably also can find suppliers on aliexpress.
Thank you. So I stand corrected of this being the first open design, did not know about that one.
I forgot about left-lane driving countries... sorry. You can just mirror the design before exporting it and you can mount it on the other side of your bike.
Yes, exactly. I just added a schematic to step 5.
Done. See step 5.
Good idea, let me know if you try it. So far I did not have any problems with broken lights. It is very rigid once it is installed. The ones on my old bike have been working for two years, summer and winter. Now the bike is broken but the lights still work :)
I am sorry to hear you messed up your computer. Whatever you downloaded it surely was not OnShape as it is a cloud based service and there is nothing to download or install.
There are higher brightness LEDs for sure. You also need to provide more energy.
Good point. I will add one.
Why is 'towards the road' the wrong side?
Yes. See the introduction text in step 1.
Sure but 'ready made' is kind of missing the point of an instructable isn't it?
Your statement is very inaccurate. First you need a diode rectifier to turn the AC voltage from the relay into a DC voltage to charge the capacitor. Then there is a resistor necessary to limit the current from the capacitor to the LED. And last but most important: a 1000uF capacitor charged to say 12V will only light a single LED for about 1 second until it is discharged.
similar as in 'same same but more fancy and expensive' :)
Certainly. In fact there is an instructable about this using an off the shelf inductive light.
If you look closely at the video in step 1 you can see that I actually mounted three magnets on the wheel. Not balance the wheel (the weight influence of the magnet is negligible) but to make it blink faster at lower speeds.
Thanks. The LED keychain is not needed if you solder the LEDs dirctly to the relay. Do not put them in series but in parallel, one of them in reverse which is called 'antiparallel', just google it and you will find the circuit. You can also just use two LEDs instead of three, or even four if you like (two parallel, two 'antiparallel') Good Idea of using zipties, will make it easier indeed. I may add a redesign of the housing to suit that.
Thank you :)
Thank you!. I first saw these kind of lights when I was travelling in Danmark about ten years ago and soon later also found them in a local store, they are quite popular in Europe, but I think this is the first DIY design :)
Batteryless Bicycle Safety Light View Instructable »
I am very sorry I missed your comment, saw it just today. I uploaded the code to my github repository. https://github.com/DedeHai/RGBmatrix_6x6_Workshop/tree/master/Arduino/RGBmatrix_6pixel_nightlight
Glowing LED Mushroom Log Lamp
Ceramics as in heat resistant? Silicones are known to be almost in-destructable by chemicals (there are some nasty bases that actually dissolve silicone but nothing houshold-grade). Most silicones however start to degrade at 300°C. You could try to put your figurine on a barbecue grill and see if it can burn-off the residuals.