dj_nme

This looks cool, but...Is it really a good idea to consume a slightly acidic foodstuff that's been cooked in an uncoated copper vessel?Apparently copper cookware (post and pans) is either tinned or lined with stainless steel to prevent acidic foods from leaching copper into them.I asked the same question of Bripe, but didn't get a reply.

I really like the slightly chunky mid-century look the finished shelves have.Having to refinish the shelves after assembly must have been a bit frustrating.One of the tricks for either re-using or pre-doing wood finishes of pieces you want to dowel together is to drill only partway through on both sides of the joint, so that when assembled, the dowels are hidden inside the joint.That's why there things called "dowel transfer pins" "dowel pins" or "dowel centre pins": so you can drill your dowel holes on side and use the dowel centre pins to transfer the hole locations by putting the other piece in place and whacking it down onto the pins with a soft-faced mallet to transfer the centre locations.

It looks very impressive and a nice looking piece of woodworking, but I'm not so sure it would survive being ridden.It seems like it could have done with connecting members from under the seat to the rear ends of the back wheel fork, to form a nice rigid triangle to support the rider.In steel or aluminium you could get away with this exact design, but in wood I'd be a bit leary of the rear wheel fork snapping off.

There doesn't seem to be any video or images in the instructable, even though they are refered to throughout.Did you forget to upload something?

I have made something similar in the past and found that unless you're going to be putting it inside a padded envelope, the top should wrap around the bottom so that it can be fully sealed for postage and you can put the address and stamp on the box itself.

Your build looks amazing, very clever using an existing monocular to give some function to your replica. Except for one small detail: the image on Wired is mirror-imaged (flipped left/right) and your prop replica is similarly flipped left/right compared to the screen-used prop (except you corrected the mirror writing).

Just be careful to remember that your speedometer reads low, because you have increased the diameter (and thus circumference/distance travelled with each rotation) of the tyres and you could be ticketed for accidentally speeding.Otherwise the build looks excellent!

I suppose if you used a laser printer, but don't forget that laser toner (the "ink") is a plastic which doesn't soften with water, so it might pucker or distort around whatever is printed rather than uniformly distorting the whole page.

A very clever instructable.I saw another DIY night-vision device which used a low-light security camera module with "privacy screens" or "censorship bars" used to make a cross-hairs out of, which were actually integrated into the video output of the camera.

Minor update is that this track seems to have been discontinued and replaced with VIDGA triple track in the Ikea catalogue.I'm guessing that the rest of this Instructable would have to altered slightly to fit, but the premise is unchanged.

I think you'll probably have to use 2-part casting resin to do this, as I think hot-melt only comes in translucent white(ish) and various solid colours.

I have a suggestion for side-panel material:Oxy/acet welding face shield lenses, in shade 5.These block UV and IR and are made to be optically clear, the other good thing about these sort of lenses is that you can cut them to size/shape with strong scissors or tinsnips.Something like Cigweld part No. 454486 - Shade 5 Polycarbonate

I think the instructions might be something missing from this instructable.