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dlebryk

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  • Vegetables and Fruits Ripeness Detection by Color W/ TensorFlow

    Congratulations on using ANN to make predictions from an unknown sample. As a proof of concept you've done a great job. And I get it, the ANN piece is your massive accomplishment. In the world of spectrum analysis, there are some things you should consider before you try to use this more widely. From the video, I can see you have a lot of difficulty placing the specimen on the sensor. If you look at the raw data for a single piece placed different ways on the sensor, you'll see a huge amount of variability. You need some way to more reproducibly present the specimen. You're using the two LED's on the device to illuminate the specimen. Those are probably throw away LED's with pretty random emission spectra. At the very least, they most likely aren't high CRI LED's - and therefore have a bi…

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    Congratulations on using ANN to make predictions from an unknown sample. As a proof of concept you've done a great job. And I get it, the ANN piece is your massive accomplishment. In the world of spectrum analysis, there are some things you should consider before you try to use this more widely. From the video, I can see you have a lot of difficulty placing the specimen on the sensor. If you look at the raw data for a single piece placed different ways on the sensor, you'll see a huge amount of variability. You need some way to more reproducibly present the specimen. You're using the two LED's on the device to illuminate the specimen. Those are probably throw away LED's with pretty random emission spectra. At the very least, they most likely aren't high CRI LED's - and therefore have a bias in spectrum. Your next step would be to get high quality / high CRI LED's to illuminate the specimen. The concept of using ANN and light to make predictions on unknown samples has been around for a pretty long time (at least 10 years). The light source and how you hold the sample are critical for this to work reproducibly. The secret sauce you've uncovered is an inexpensive sensor and some great coding work to get a proof of concept working. Good job.

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  • D-LBFG Discus Launch Balsa Free Flight Glider

    Sanding sealer. Really helps get the balsa smooth, sands so much better, and adds virtually no weight. This is in addition to ArturZ9's beautiful additions to your awesome instructions. In his point 4, if you start with sanding sealer, there is a little bit of filler in that dope. You can finish up with a colored dope. And oh boy does that stuff smell bad, be sure to use it in a well ventilated area. Know this from years of rocket building.

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  • dlebryk commented on tjaap's instructable Super-fast DIY Slide Scanner
    Super-fast DIY Slide Scanner

    This is a question that brings back memories. The problem you are having is the same as darkroom enlargers - trying to print larger negatives and not changing the condensers. There are a few possibilities here. One could be, you are too far away from the projector, and that is the projector's lens barrel doing the vignetting. You could troubleshoot that by moving your camera much closer or farther away (don't worry about focus, just is the image evenly lit all the way across). Move a lot closer or farther away from the projector. The other possibility, you've changed something after taking off the projector lens. The condensers in the projector lamp are focused on evenly lighting exactly the 35mm area at precisely that location in the projector. If you move the slide farther away or close…

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    This is a question that brings back memories. The problem you are having is the same as darkroom enlargers - trying to print larger negatives and not changing the condensers. There are a few possibilities here. One could be, you are too far away from the projector, and that is the projector's lens barrel doing the vignetting. You could troubleshoot that by moving your camera much closer or farther away (don't worry about focus, just is the image evenly lit all the way across). Move a lot closer or farther away from the projector. The other possibility, you've changed something after taking off the projector lens. The condensers in the projector lamp are focused on evenly lighting exactly the 35mm area at precisely that location in the projector. If you move the slide farther away or closer to the condensers, then the light won't be even. Or one of the lenses is missing in the light box - one of those big heavy glass lenses. That would for certain cause this problem.My guess, it is the lens barrel of the projector getting in the way. You'll need to be closer or farther away for this to work. https://www.flickr.com/groups/84061069@N00/discuss...Sorry about the link below - it is specific text in that wikipedia article about condensers:https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Enlarger#:~:text=A%2...https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Enlarger

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  • dlebryk commented on markus.purtz's instructable FPV in a Slot Car
    FPV in a Slot Car

    Took me a moment to find - it's two new pictures at the top. Nicely done. It looks really good. Any new video?

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  • dlebryk commented on ZaNgAbY's instructable Indoor Air Quality Meter
    Indoor Air Quality Meter

    This is a VOC meter. The air quality is based on measuring volatile organic compounds in the air. It doesn't measure radon, CO, dust, anything else you mentioned in your comment. It isn't easy to find or decode the information about what gas resistance means. It is VOC plain and simple, nothing more. The information you seek is on page 8 of this document (easy to understand, impossible to find)https://www.bosch-sensortec.com/media/boschsensortec/downloads/datasheets/bst-bme680-ds001.pdf

    VOC (Volatile Organic Compounds) - that's what it measures. Gas resistance, for this sensor in this case, translates to VOC (see above reply). It doesn't measure ozone or particulates. A HEPA filter does nothing for VOC - it is a particulate filter. Now most air purifiers include an activated charcoal or carbon filter in them, so they do have some impact on VOC's.If you really want to go down a rabbit hole, a good one at that, the EPA has an excellent series on indoor air quality:https://www.epa.gov/indoor-air-quality-iaq/introduction-indoor-air-quality

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  • dlebryk commented on markus.purtz's instructable FPV in a Slot Car
    FPV in a Slot Car

    You have an amazing track - gorgeous work. I'm a bit stumped though. I was really hoping for a reenactment of Grand Prix or Mad Max, with the camera inches off the road and going incredibly fast. At the bottom of the video frame includes internal parts of the car, the wires, the screws, the mounting hardware (especially compared to the amazing / incredible job you did on the track work - wow those side walls, underpass, track joints...). It loses the illusion of being in a car. And frankly, the car looks strange with that gaping opening at the front. I guess what stumps me, you could have easily used any commercial slot car chassis (that would include a magnet) and been a long way ahead on the build. And then you mounted the camera back quite a ways in the body so all those things are vis…

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    You have an amazing track - gorgeous work. I'm a bit stumped though. I was really hoping for a reenactment of Grand Prix or Mad Max, with the camera inches off the road and going incredibly fast. At the bottom of the video frame includes internal parts of the car, the wires, the screws, the mounting hardware (especially compared to the amazing / incredible job you did on the track work - wow those side walls, underpass, track joints...). It loses the illusion of being in a car. And frankly, the car looks strange with that gaping opening at the front. I guess what stumps me, you could have easily used any commercial slot car chassis (that would include a magnet) and been a long way ahead on the build. And then you mounted the camera back quite a ways in the body so all those things are visible. Why?

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  • British Isles 3D Map From Masking Tape

    Hunh, so the instructable is, draw a map, lay tape on the drawing and ruffle the pieces as you go. And the magic of this instructable, the ruffling of the tape is sped up in the video. And the type of tape to use isn't described. Hunh.The end result, however you did it, is pretty.

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  • Hidden Bookshelf Door for Closet

    You had to read one of the comment, and divine that 'ible was the link for the hinges.Here's the link in more verbose form. https://www.instructables.com/Bookcase-Door-2/

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  • How to Make a Custom Garage Door Opener

    Highly likely, even if the visor isn't lit, there is a wire harness in the headliner for a lighted visor. If you know where it is, not terribly hard to get - requires digging in the headliner. You'll need to get a visor with homelink from a similar vehicle for this to work. In the case of Ford, Titanium versions or the highest level trim, usually had that type of visor. And they used similar ones for a number of years.I've done this swap 4 times on a Ford Focus. Car companies are sneaky though - they change strange things, like the covers for the mounting bracket, that can complicate the swap.

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  • DIY Band Clamps | Step by Step Woodworking Tool

    Excellent simple project. More importantly, the glass you have, very nice. Wondering what that beautiful brown liquid is, and is it important to building this the right way?

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  • DIY Image Sensor and Digital Camera

    Very cool project - I love the passion you have for the sensor and all the work that went into making it. Seriously amazing that you were able to hand assemble that sensor. I'm curious though - why did you go through all the 3D printing? Mixing old and new would have been a lot easier. Your lens mount could have been much simpler with an old bellows from a camera (cheap at flea markets). Or for that matter just retrofit an old view camera with your sensor. A far better lens than a single element from a zoom lens would come with that view camera. Seems like the super amazing thing about your project is the sensor. The 3D printed box, lens mount, and disassembled lens are all superfluous. And how awesome would it be to mix ancient tech with new?

    Very cool project - I love the passion you have for the sensor and all the work that went into making it. Seriously amazing that you were able to hand assemble that sensor. I'm curious though - why did you use 3D printing? Mixing old and new would have been easier, or at least to do proof of concept for the sensor. Seems like a bellows from an old camera would make a faster lens mount. Or for that matter just retrofit an old view camera with your sensor. A far better lens than a single element from a zoom lens would come with that view camera. Seems like the super amazing thing about your project is the sensor. The 3D printed box, lens mount, and disassembled lens are all superfluous. And how awesome would it be to mix ancient tech with new?

    Very cool project - I love the passion you have for the sensor and all the work that went into making it. Seriously amazing that you were able to hand assemble that sensor. I'm curious though - why did you go through all the 3D printing? Mixing old and new would have been a lot easier. Your lens mount could have been much simpler with an old bellows from a camera (cheap at flea markets). Or for that matter just retrofit an old view camera with your sensor. A far better lens than a single element from a zoom lens would come with that view camera. Seems like the super amazing thing about your project is the sensor. The 3D printed box, lens mount, and disassembled lens are all superfluous. And how awesome would it be to mix ancient tech with new?

    Very cool project - I love the passion you have for the sensor and all the work that went into making it. Seriously amazing that you were able to hand assemble that sensor. I'm curious though - why did you go through all the 3D printing? Mixing old and new would have been a lot easier. Your lens mount could have been much simpler with an old bellows from a camera (cheap at flea markets). Or for that matter just retrofit an old view camera with your sensor. A far better lens than a single element from a zoom lens would come with that view camera. Seems like the super amazing thing about your project is the sensor. The 3D printed box, lens mount, and disassembled lens are all superfluous. And how awesome would it be to mix ancient tech with new.

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  • dlebryk commented on jacksonlyons07's instructable Mailbox Project

    About the snow - no worries. We live in Southwestern Michigan, tons of snow. Just about every country road and two lane highway, I see exactly this mail box, everywhere. Snow plows won't knock them down, even on roads with 55 MPH speed limits. No need to remove any slats. In fact one modification I see a lot - slats up to the top of the mailbox. That way nobody can go by with a baseball bat and ruin the mailbox. You have to put your house number on the slats though.

    Nicely written instructions. Classic design. I see this all over rural roads. The difference - especially if you live on country roads - they tend to run the slats all the way up to the top of the mailbox on the side facing the traffic direction. That tends to protect the mailbox from all kinds of damage. They also don't put slats on the opposite side - just one. You can expect your design mailbox to last for a really long time.

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  • Golf shoes. The spikes work perfectly, even the new version. Epoxy will flow back around the slight gaps.

    This will work (essentially no floor prep), if this is for light duty use - no cars or heavy equipment. Anybody thinking of this for a garage floor, the prep is much longer, much harder to get it right. And there are cheap epoxies (read the kind you up at a home improvement center) no matter how you prep a garage, will eventually lift. Garage floor requires all oil be removed and the floor etched either with acid or bead blasting. A lot of work to get right.

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  • Really great job. How the heck you figured out all those details. Your comments are outstanding - especially the cautions about painting, and prepping.Hey I kind of chuckled. I'm sure you meant to dilute the paint with water. You know confusing it wouldn't be nice!"Once you've selected your paint for the color wash, it's time to delude it with water."

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  • So well written, just the right amount of detail. Brilliant idea. I think you meant 1000 grit wet sandpaper to finish the edges (not 100).

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  • That is so thinking outside the box. Seriously, Ziplocs upside down. You’re a genius. That’s the secret sauce on this one!

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  • Cool idea.The links to RollerTrol don't work (you might want to check all of them).Here is the landing page for the roller motor kitshttp://rollertrol.com/store/en/88-diy-blind-shade-...

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  • The concept is fabulous.Your wood working skills are a pleasure to watch. It feels like the LED's needed some finishing - like a nice diffuser to hide the elements and make the light smoother and softer. Wire management is a not fun topic - you did what was acceptable for you and worked quickly. There are other ways to hide wire that look better and are closer to your skill level with the wood working. The barrier strips are really not a problem. They use those in Europe for just about everything. They're the equivalent of European wire nuts.

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  • You might think about LED lights for your next project.Although they are expensive, there are filament LED lamps that look a lot like vintage Edison incandescent lamps. Incandescent lamps will use around 40-60 watts each with a fair amount of heat, an LED will use around 4-8 Watts with no heat. These newer lamps have a 2500K color temperature, and output just about the light of a 60 Watt Edison. The previous generation were a little cooler color and output way too much light. When off, the filaments might look cool, or you might not like the look. There are also LED bulbs with a bunch of small LED lamps inside them (look like the starry night style LED). Those are more expensive, but they look way cooler when they are lit up.

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  • Too funny. If you were really interested, Google is your best friend for this. It would take you 2 minutes to convert everything into cups, tablespoons, and teaspoons. Weight measurements are the most precise for a recipe - the person writing this did a fantastic job making sure exact proportions are achieved. A kitchen scale costs around $10 on Amazon.

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  • This is such an awesome idea. An awesome write up of how to do this. You're absolutely right about the vast majority of inkjet printers not working.However pigment based inkjet printers will most likely work. The reason the inkjet print smeared is because it uses dye based inks. They are water soluble even after they are dry. So the water used to rub off the paper dissolved the dye and it smeared.Pigments aren't water soluble, so they should stay stuck to the board. Epson DuraBrite ink (mostly Workforce printers), Canon Pixma Pro printers (a small number of higher end Canon office printers use durable ink), and OfficeJet (NOT DeskJet) HP Professional Durability ink are all pigment based ink. Here is a long list of printer models that use pigment based ink:http://www.avery.com/avery/en_us/…

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    This is such an awesome idea. An awesome write up of how to do this. You're absolutely right about the vast majority of inkjet printers not working.However pigment based inkjet printers will most likely work. The reason the inkjet print smeared is because it uses dye based inks. They are water soluble even after they are dry. So the water used to rub off the paper dissolved the dye and it smeared.Pigments aren't water soluble, so they should stay stuck to the board. Epson DuraBrite ink (mostly Workforce printers), Canon Pixma Pro printers (a small number of higher end Canon office printers use durable ink), and OfficeJet (NOT DeskJet) HP Professional Durability ink are all pigment based ink. Here is a long list of printer models that use pigment based ink:http://www.avery.com/avery/en_us/Products/Industri...

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