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  • RadioGlobe - Spin to Search Over 2000 Web Radio Stations!

    Indeed mate - just posted up my "Made It" photos.

    Yep -it's all working now :-) - just a bunch of the stations are silent - wondering if it is time differences . Currently listening to some aweful Argentinian radio!Switching the long and lat leads round cured a lot of weirdness

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  • RadioGlobe - Spin to Search Over 2000 Web Radio Stations!

    Update - I wiped the card and started again. This time I used Pi Imager to install the lite version. When I installed the RadioGlobe software and did the install it took a LOT longer - but now something happens. The display is still blank, but the RGB LED flashes white. On and off continuous. If I press the top or bottom botton it briefly flashes blue.That's it.

    Fire up for 1st test and get nothing. Blank LCD. If I run the program, manually from Putty:I get this. No idea where to start tbh.pi@radioglobe:~/work/RadioGlobe $ python3 main.pyRebuilding mapSaving mapDoneTraceback (most recent call last): File "main.py", line 142, in <module> display_thread = Display(3, "Display") File "/home/pi/work/RadioGlobe/display.py", line 16, in __init__ self.lcd = liquidcrystal_i2c.LiquidCrystal_I2C(DISPLAY_I2C_ADDRESS, DISPLAY_ I2C_PORT, numlines=DISPLAY_ROWS)AttributeError: module 'liquidcrystal_i2c' has no attribute 'LiquidCrystal_I2C'

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  • RadioGlobe - Spin to Search Over 2000 Web Radio Stations!

    I have a couple of questions regarding the HAT pcb which I've just assembled.The Jog wheel butotn has two GNDs. One is connected to the GND rail, the other is connected to nothing (third pin in from left , top left row of 5 pins). I've added a ground link to fix it. Is the blue wire underneath hiding another GND solder blob I can't see ? 2 photos attached explain.The other query is the RGB LED GND pin. Your example photos have it connected to a long green wire - which takes it to 3.3v. Also one of your photos shows it Grounded with a link wire but that link wire is not in othert photos. I can see it needs grounding by following the curcuit diagram (and I know how they work!), so two photos confict each otehr and I can't for the life of me figure what the long green wire to 3.3v is? Again…

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    I have a couple of questions regarding the HAT pcb which I've just assembled.The Jog wheel butotn has two GNDs. One is connected to the GND rail, the other is connected to nothing (third pin in from left , top left row of 5 pins). I've added a ground link to fix it. Is the blue wire underneath hiding another GND solder blob I can't see ? 2 photos attached explain.The other query is the RGB LED GND pin. Your example photos have it connected to a long green wire - which takes it to 3.3v. Also one of your photos shows it Grounded with a link wire but that link wire is not in othert photos. I can see it needs grounding by following the curcuit diagram (and I know how they work!), so two photos confict each otehr and I can't for the life of me figure what the long green wire to 3.3v is? Again, images attached to explain.Easy enough for me to correct but would fox anyone who can't debug a circuit diagram.

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  • RadioGlobe - Spin to Search Over 2000 Web Radio Stations!

    Just an update - build is underway - just taking my time and enjoying the process!

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  • RadioGlobe - Spin to Search Over 2000 Web Radio Stations!

    Aha! - seen it now. Nice one. Will be very helpful for 200x200 printer users. You might want to do your magic on the main base plate - no way can you print it on a 200x200. I went ahead and made mine a couple of days back. I drilled holes and stuck a carbon fibre rod between the two parts and used epoxy. It's stong enough that you can bend the whole cradle and the joint doesn't budge.With the base I just sliced it and glued the two parts together. I made the cut in a way that allows the plate screwed above (for the jog wheel) it to hold the join together later on. Along with the main case - it should all hold together tight.

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  • RadioGlobe - Spin to Search Over 2000 Web Radio Stations!

    Where do I find the files?

    Ha - cheers :-) I've made the yoke and base. I;ll take a look at your files.Just finilising the parts list - it's coming in very expensive at over £250 so trying to tweak it (and that's with using ebay/RS/Amazon combo optimising prices with a few small items from China).

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  • RadioGlobe - Spin to Search Over 2000 Web Radio Stations!

    Wish me luck! Going to dry drilling, inserting a CF pin, then bonding with plastic 2 part epoxy

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  • RadioGlobe - Spin to Search Over 2000 Web Radio Stations!

    Yeah - the base is right on the limit, but the cradle is well over. The 250mm dimension on a Prusa i3 is the Z-height :-)I've split the cradle in 2 and am currently printing and I'll then see how well I can join it together.

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  • RadioGlobe - Spin to Search Over 2000 Web Radio Stations!

    Arghhh - fallen at the first hurdle. I've a Prusa i3 and can't print the base, and, I suspect, the large round bit. It's the most common 3D printer out there I'd say. I've tried with a larger piece of glass, and with effort, I reckon I could get the base in, or, cut it in two, but the large round bit isn't going to break in two so readily. My 3D printer is totally dialled in, inside a home made heated cab, so in no position to replace it :-( Never mind.

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  • RadioGlobe - Spin to Search Over 2000 Web Radio Stations!

    Looks awesome - currently buying the parts. I have a few projects I've put on this site, but your level of detail and tuition is remarkable. Looking forward to building it. R

    UK

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  • DIY 2G/3G/4G Wireless Cell Phone Signal Booster

    Made it exactly as you did and it works perfectly! I have al alarm system in a shipping container that can't get a phone signal, seeing as it's in a farraday cage... Put one end in the container and the other outside and bingo! It works perfectly! Really, thanks so much! Bit of a rubbish photo but it's on the whiet wire on the container.

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  • Made it exactly as you did and it works perfectly! I have al alarm system in a shipping container that can't get a phone signal, seeing as it's in a farraday cage... Put one end in the container and the other outside and bingo! It works perfectly! Really, thanks so much!

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  • Thanks �

    Thanks �

    Thanks �

    Sorry. I found printing it in one part no problem

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  • That's awesome! - Nice looking feeder :-)Thanks for the pics

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  • Perhaps that might help...The printer is all about the quality of parts - mostly the print head, and the parts used in the extruder. I bought the parts from various sources. The frame kit from one, and the electrics from another (Ebay). That way I got the features I wanted (like a RAMPS board, and LCD control for computerless printing)

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  • Do it! make a Prusa i3 or similar. having a 3D printer if you like making things is truly amazing. Draw it in Sketchup, then a little while later you have it! Still blows my mind :-)The jams are the food getting trapped as the auger pushes the food into the tube and the odd kibble gets stuck between the edge of the auger fin and the edge of the tube where it goes from the feeding "T" section into the sealed round remainder of the tube, if you see what I mean. Having the servo do a partial reverse jiggle deals with this and lets the jammed bit drop.

    I like the RFID reader idea :-) The motors all have different benefits: A servo motor is easy to wire, doesn't need a specific driver board, and had a massive amount of torque. The downside is servos are not designed to rotate more than 360 degrees unless modified (there ARE some specialist free spinning servos out there) and driving servos needs PWM pulses to tell them speed and direction, which can be a little erratic. Stepper motors dont have as much torque, but are very easy to control precisely with a simple stepper driver board (like an Easy Driver). You can be very precise with steppers - even saying, "turn this direction and go to specific point "x" I'm finding my version of the machine with a stepper motor is jamming (the auger) far more than the servo motor.

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  • I run it both ways for the same reason.

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