drewscreen

If they put up a sign that said they were using face recog cameras in San Francisco, it likely wouldn't stop the tagging but would instead enrage many law abiding residents.

There is a common hardware store item called a "hex coupling nut" or "connector nut" that comes in many standard sizes, both metric and imperial, that is basically an extra super wide nut that provides maybe 5x or 8x the number of threads as a regular nut, and would be a lot more secure.

That's a neat and simple solution. Did your helmet come equipped with a brim, or is that baseball cap inside the helmet?

Riding in winter rain may give the average person pause, but it's standard fare for the bike commuter. This could be a real plus if the fogging problem was solved. Maybe something like the Rain-X product offered for car windshields would work?

I agree. Maybe the magnets could be tied in place somehow with filament made from soda bottles, that would be a more flexible alternative to the staples. The curvature of the shield should make the alignment stand up.

Great 'Ible! And really a beautiful outcome! You've really updated the idea of log cabin(et). One recommendation though, you might edit the tool list to start with 3D printer and table saw. I very excited to try this project, but without those two essential tools, it would be a much longer project.

This is exactly what I was looking to do. Instructables to the rescue again!

Sometimes people say "that can't be fixed" when what they really mean is "that can't be fixed easily". When we lived in San Francisco, someone in my building threw out an Aeron Chair because the glass-filled nylon seat frame was broken. I recognized the chair and took it, then disassembled it and brought the seat to the model-making shop where I was working at the time to ask my boss for advice on how to fix it. He explained that due to the nature of the materials it couldn't be glued, and that it had to be able to flex in use. I decided to bolt it together and cover the crack with color-matched ShapeLock (Polycaprolactone), which made for a very strong fix. I then used that chair every day for 5 years without a problem, eventually giving it to my cousin when I reloc...

Sometimes people say "that can't be fixed" when what they really mean is "that can't be fixed easily". When we lived in San Francisco, someone in my building threw out an Aeron Chair because the glass-filled nylon seat frame was broken. I recognized the chair and took it, then disassembled it and brought the seat to the model-making shop where I was working at the time to ask my boss for advice on how to fix it. He explained that due to the nature of the materials it couldn't be glued, and that it had to be able to flex in use. I decided to bolt it together and cover the crack with color-matched ShapeLock (Polycaprolactone), which made for a very strong fix. I then used that chair every day for 5 years without a problem, eventually giving it to my cousin when I relocated overseas. If you look closely at the photo you can see that there is a bump on the far side of the seat -- that's the ShapeLock covering the nuts and heads of the 2 bolts pinning the cracked frame together.

This is nice, and well documented. Any suggestions for what to do if your saw doesn't already have the built-in mount behind the blade?

Black paint makes everything look better!

I was thinking the same thing: that this would make a great lightweight universal clamp. Perhaps this should also be listed in the tools section too.

This looks like a great idea. I just had to really clean several dozen dirty golf balls for a food-area art project and found that our commercially-made ball washer just didn't cut it, thus had to use a scouring pad to get them clean. Next round, I will definitely make one of these, and can save my poor hands! What cleaning solution did you use?

For a recent project I had to cut 60 golf balls in half. To reduce the risk of jamming and breaking the blade on our bandsaw, I made a jig that would allow me to securely grasp and discretely control each ball as I cut it. I used gaffer's tape to attach a metal (liquor) shot glass to each pad on a large QuickGrip bar clamp. Over the opening of each shot glass I taped rubber-coated grippy shelf liner. Using just the slightest amount of clamping pressure, I was able to keep the balls from spinning when I went to cut them in our wood bandsaw. To keep the blade from binding, I cut quickly, and as I passed the center point, put a slight outward pressure against one of the shot glasses. Because the large bar clamp gave me a lot of leverage and control, I confidently split all the balls in le...

For a recent project I had to cut 60 golf balls in half. To reduce the risk of jamming and breaking the blade on our bandsaw, I made a jig that would allow me to securely grasp and discretely control each ball as I cut it. I used gaffer's tape to attach a metal (liquor) shot glass to each pad on a large QuickGrip bar clamp. Over the opening of each shot glass I taped rubber-coated grippy shelf liner. Using just the slightest amount of clamping pressure, I was able to keep the balls from spinning when I went to cut them in our wood bandsaw. To keep the blade from binding, I cut quickly, and as I passed the center point, put a slight outward pressure against one of the shot glasses. Because the large bar clamp gave me a lot of leverage and control, I confidently split all the balls in less than an hour.

Your title is misleading. It should be: "Hide a shredder inside a gutted printer"