drewscreen

Beautiful renderings of a pretty desk, but I don't understand how it improves desktop organization. Also, stainless steel isn't a good candidate for strong magnetic connections, and if it will be painted black anyway, carbon steel would be easier to recycle at product end-of-life.

The "V" shape is used to accommodate a range of unknown specific diameters. I applaud your use of a variation of it in your 'ible, since it vastly simplifies the build.

Cork is great! Long live cork!

Nice build and very pretty. I keep seeing people suggest old hacksaw blades for the cutter. I know old hacksaw blades are great for cutting lengths of sandpaper in your makerspace, but if I make a tape dispenser as a gift, I'll probably use a piece of stainless steel steak knife instead, considering that that part is the business end and the one thing that usually gives people the most frustration when it doesn't work well.

Nicely done and well photographed. One question: why did make the clamping faces faceted instead of round to conform to the circular cross-section of the drill column?

That's an elegant solution to a nagging problem. When I found a bunch of tanning salon reflectors in the trash, I used them as mirrors to put on the ceilings of some high nook closet spaces so that I don't have to get a stepladder out every time I want to check what's up there.

I do something like that too sometimes, but I find that rumination helps a lot, and if I'm stuck, a bike ride or a shower will often give me the cognitive space to create a different approach. I have been using trays for a long time now, in conjunction with a mat; the trays organize the parts and related tools, and the mat is where the magic happens.

Maybe you could use a bellows instead, like the (foot) kind used for blowing up air mattresses. For computer use, you might need to figure out a way to inhibit static build-up, though. I use a camp bellows with a reducer at the tip, instead of a air line compressor, to dust off the nooks of my bandsaw. It works well enough and as an added bonus it's quiet!

Where we live (Italy) the vast majority of the people believe covid is real, but summer tourism seems to have brought an influx of science deniers from EU countries that have had fewer cases. The problem I have with the Olson is it's vertical column of needle holes that passes in front of one's nose and mouth, which the Easy Best doesn't have. I was looking for a little more piece of mind with the Easy Best. I wasn't absolutely sure that the knit fabric I was using was 100% cotton, so that could be a big factor in the problems I was having. I think I WILL make a new batch of these masks with T-shirt fabric on the sides only, as they should be a lot easier to sew and cooler to wear.

I appreciate the wonderful hints and tips on sewing a batch of masks at one time.This design does not prevent fogging for eyeglass-wearers, at least not for me or my wife, who are always wearing our glasses outside the home. Also, I can report that unless you are already an somewhat of an expert at the sewing machine, sewing knit material is anything but "easy".In total I have made over 20 pieces of this mask, and while the T-shirt fabric on the inside does seem to be more comfortable on the face, it also makes the mask almost unbearably hot for summer use. I can't wear the earloop style masks because they make my glasses slide off, and pushing them back up all the time would mean I would be touching my face more rather than less. Thus we went with the band-over-and-behind-the-h…

I appreciate the wonderful hints and tips on sewing a batch of masks at one time.This design does not prevent fogging for eyeglass-wearers, at least not for me or my wife, who are always wearing our glasses outside the home. Also, I can report that unless you are already an somewhat of an expert at the sewing machine, sewing knit material is anything but "easy".In total I have made over 20 pieces of this mask, and while the T-shirt fabric on the inside does seem to be more comfortable on the face, it also makes the mask almost unbearably hot for summer use. I can't wear the earloop style masks because they make my glasses slide off, and pushing them back up all the time would mean I would be touching my face more rather than less. Thus we went with the band-over-and-behind-the-head further variant, so maybe that has been an additional factor in our disappointment in their performance. I will give them another shot in the cooler months. For now I am going back to the fine Olsen-style masks we found here on Instructables by ashevillejm.

That's cool! Do you get enough pressure to blow off dusty tools around the shop, such as around a bandsaw?

It's a shame that it took so long for the riving blade to be mandatory on tablesaws. Our old shop had a refurbished 70s-era Craftsman that was really solid and ran great, but really required extreme care and proper body positioning to avoid personal damage from kickback.

IDK, but if you have hard water in your area, it's probably calcium build-up that is blocking your nozzles. Most supermarkets sell some kind of anti-calc liquid cleaner in the the same isle as glass cleaner and mops. There is a product called CLR that is specifically formulated for this purpose https://youtu.be/luuyvSeqgaM

This is a really nice idea. I have always just run the eraser on the underside of whatever desk or table I was drawing at, since the underside of factory made wood furniture usually is unfinished and has the right amount of drag to clean the erasers really well. Of course that wouldn't work in bed... but what about the erasing crumbs from the drawing? Don't they end up in bed?

I had the same problem with the first mask I made that used elastic, no matter how much I tried to adjust it, I always got unacceptable gaps. I switched to straps made from the same material as the mask, with one continuous loop that goes over the head, and ties in the back with a half-bow. Also, the strap ends are folded over and zigzag stitched to prevent fraying in the wash, and lastly I put knots at the ends to make pulling the tail of the bow easier for removal. Now the mask I made stays on even when riding bike (for groceries).

That's what I used for my filter material insert, with 2 layers, tacked together with a few patches of masking tape at the edges, although the actual body of the mask is bedsheet fabric, with ties made from the same bedsheet fabric, instead of elastic.

I think this is by far the best design I have seen. I made 4 so far, based on the linked video from Sabrinayaya. I was having a little trouble loading my filter into the pocket until I made this jig that holds the inside and outside panels of the pocket apart:

I just used the same fabric as the mask material, about 50" or (127 cm) long and 1" (2.5 cm) wide, folded to hem all the edges to 1/4" final width. I found this length to adequate to fit a medium sized head, with the top strap arching over the crown, and the bottom strap tying behind the neck in a half-bow knot that is easy to tie and untie, but holds securely.

We used to cut fabrics a lot on the CO2 laser cutter at my school. So if anybody has access to a laser cutter, that SVG file could really accelerate the cutting task.

If you have a couple of pliers or a Leatherman and a pliers, use them to take the filter apart, and save your fingers.

When it rains AND is windy, I check all the broken trashed umbrellas for the ones made with fiberglass rod stays. It's almost always some other part that has failed, and umbrellas are pretty simple to disassemble. I don't always have a planned use those rods, but I know that they have useful attributes that often suit the needs of some of my projects.

That's a fantastic idea. It saves so much time and resources to not have to order in or go get the supplies for a build.

This is a pretty 'cool' project!

Safety first! I think the OP has condensed the video for time and clarity of the operations at the expense of showing proper safety practice. Or maybe he doesn't know them.As far as using cutting tools goes, I always use my imagination to consider the consequences of a slip of the blade, as in where it will go if I make a mistake or something flexes or catches unexpectedly. I worked in a university level workshop teaching proper hand tool use, and have seen accidents caused by involuntary body actions such as a sneeze send 2nd year students to the emergency room. In my opinion, you can't have too many clamps and work holds -- they take so much of the danger out of a cutting procedure, and generally only take a few moments extra to figure out. If nothing else, use a big pliers to put some …

Safety first! I think the OP has condensed the video for time and clarity of the operations at the expense of showing proper safety practice. Or maybe he doesn't know them.As far as using cutting tools goes, I always use my imagination to consider the consequences of a slip of the blade, as in where it will go if I make a mistake or something flexes or catches unexpectedly. I worked in a university level workshop teaching proper hand tool use, and have seen accidents caused by involuntary body actions such as a sneeze send 2nd year students to the emergency room. In my opinion, you can't have too many clamps and work holds -- they take so much of the danger out of a cutting procedure, and generally only take a few moments extra to figure out. If nothing else, use a big pliers to put some distance between blades and your fingers!

A sheet! That gives me an idea to make a stage for my tool pegboard and then put a curtain in front of it that I can draw closed when the dust flies. Draping a sheet over my tools probably wouldn't work for me as I alway suffer snags when I try something like that.

I often use step drill bits for measuring the openings of holes. This is convenient for me since I most always keep a step bit chucked up when the drill is in it's case.

I used to use my skateboard for work too. I was a delivery pressman/skater in NYC for a small commercial print shop for about 4 years, using the Subway/skateboard combo to pick-up and deliver samples and proofs and make small deliveries. Years later in CA I used the same board to deliver 3d printed parts to the engineers at the enormous prototyping lab I worked at for a time, because we were discouraged from riding the supplied bikes in the hallways. Mine was made from a 1/2" slab of polycarbonate, and I used it for more than 20 years until I gave it away when I moved overseas.

Having moved ourselves several times, and having also been half of a 2-man operation in NYC, I recognized immediately that you made the classic problem of putting too much of the wrong kind of item in big boxes. Plates, books and delicate or precious items should be put in small boxes, leaving the big boxes for linens, clothes and other lightweight but bulky items. Using more small boxes usually makes packing the truck easier too.

This is the simple and practical solution I was looking for. Thanks for sharing!

That's really a great result for just a little work. Seems like it would be easy to store away too. I'm going to have to make this!

Thanks! This is the first time I had the presence of mind to document a repair that seemed like it could be useful to others in light of the exploding popularity of this type, and particularly this brand of mask.

It's definitely pretty when full, and looks to be quite well made, with a pretty good use of materials and a well documented build. I wonder why there are so many needlessly sharp corners on it though, especially when the bathroom is already statistically notorious for being the most dangerous room in the home. Also, since toilet paper's principle feature is it's absorbency, it might be a good idea to NOT place the paper cloud storage directly over the bowl where all the odors (read: bacteria) are generated. Maybe there's a good reason most people store their toilet paper in a cabinet.

If they put up a sign that said they were using face recog cameras in San Francisco, it likely wouldn't stop the tagging but would instead enrage many law abiding residents.

There is a common hardware store item called a "hex coupling nut" or "connector nut" that comes in many standard sizes, both metric and imperial, that is basically an extra super wide nut that provides maybe 5x or 8x the number of threads as a regular nut, and would be a lot more secure.

That's a neat and simple solution. Did your helmet come equipped with a brim, or is that baseball cap inside the helmet?

I agree. Maybe the magnets could be tied in place somehow with filament made from soda bottles, that would be a more flexible alternative to the staples. The curvature of the shield should make the alignment stand up.

Riding in winter rain may give the average person pause, but it's standard fare for the bike commuter. This could be a real plus if the fogging problem was solved. Maybe something like the Rain-X product offered for car windshields would work?

Great 'Ible! And really a beautiful outcome! You've really updated the idea of log cabin(et). One recommendation though, you might edit the tool list to start with 3D printer and table saw. I very excited to try this project, but without those two essential tools, it would be a much longer project.

This is exactly what I was looking to do. Instructables to the rescue again!

Sometimes people say "that can't be fixed" when what they really mean is "that can't be fixed easily". When we lived in San Francisco, someone in my building threw out an Aeron Chair because the glass-filled nylon seat frame was broken. I recognized the chair and took it, then disassembled it and brought the seat to the model-making shop where I was working at the time to ask my boss for advice on how to fix it. He explained that due to the nature of the materials it couldn't be glued, and that it had to be able to flex in use. I decided to bolt it together and cover the crack with color-matched ShapeLock (Polycaprolactone), which made for a very strong fix. I then used that chair every day for 5 years without a problem, eventually giving it to my cousin when I relocat…

Sometimes people say "that can't be fixed" when what they really mean is "that can't be fixed easily". When we lived in San Francisco, someone in my building threw out an Aeron Chair because the glass-filled nylon seat frame was broken. I recognized the chair and took it, then disassembled it and brought the seat to the model-making shop where I was working at the time to ask my boss for advice on how to fix it. He explained that due to the nature of the materials it couldn't be glued, and that it had to be able to flex in use. I decided to bolt it together and cover the crack with color-matched ShapeLock (Polycaprolactone), which made for a very strong fix. I then used that chair every day for 5 years without a problem, eventually giving it to my cousin when I relocated overseas. If you look closely at the photo you can see that there is a bump on the far side of the seat -- that's the ShapeLock covering the nuts and heads of the 2 bolts pinning the cracked frame together.

This is nice, and well documented. Any suggestions for what to do if your saw doesn't already have the built-in mount behind the blade?

Black paint makes everything look better!

I was thinking the same thing: that this would make a great lightweight universal clamp. Perhaps this should also be listed in the tools section too.

This looks like a great idea. I just had to really clean several dozen dirty golf balls for a food-area art project and found that our commercially-made ball washer just didn't cut it, thus had to use a scouring pad to get them clean. Next round, I will definitely make one of these, and can save my poor hands! What cleaning solution did you use?

For a recent project I had to cut 60 golf balls in half. To reduce the risk of jamming and breaking the blade on our bandsaw, I made a jig that would allow me to securely grasp and discretely control each ball as I cut it. I used gaffer's tape to attach a metal (liquor) shot glass to each pad on a large QuickGrip bar clamp. Over the opening of each shot glass I taped rubber-coated grippy shelf liner. Using just the slightest amount of clamping pressure, I was able to keep the balls from spinning when I went to cut them in our wood bandsaw. To keep the blade from binding, I cut quickly, and as I passed the center point, put a slight outward pressure against one of the shot glasses. Because the large bar clamp gave me a lot of leverage and control, I confidently split all the balls in less…

For a recent project I had to cut 60 golf balls in half. To reduce the risk of jamming and breaking the blade on our bandsaw, I made a jig that would allow me to securely grasp and discretely control each ball as I cut it. I used gaffer's tape to attach a metal (liquor) shot glass to each pad on a large QuickGrip bar clamp. Over the opening of each shot glass I taped rubber-coated grippy shelf liner. Using just the slightest amount of clamping pressure, I was able to keep the balls from spinning when I went to cut them in our wood bandsaw. To keep the blade from binding, I cut quickly, and as I passed the center point, put a slight outward pressure against one of the shot glasses. Because the large bar clamp gave me a lot of leverage and control, I confidently split all the balls in less than an hour.

Your title is misleading. It should be: "Hide a shredder inside a gutted printer"