author

dtrewren

201
Inbox View Profile
8Instructables319,112Views150CommentsBristol
I am an electronics engineer working in telecommunications in the UK. Generally I work on chip design for digital radio receivers. I like all things arty and consider chip design a bit arty :) Basically I have a lovely workshop and spend large amounts of time designing and building stuff but also including my little girl Ava as much as possible - trying to teach her to be interested, to question and to think.

Achievements

100+ Comments Earned a bronze medal
10K+ Views Earned a bronze medal
    • Magnetic Loop Antenna Automated Tuner
      9,777 views
      92 favorites
      41 comments
  • Magnetic Loop Antenna Automated Tuner

    Hi Barry,Sorry I missed your message regarding the 648R resistor - 649R is fine it is not critical. I have just messaged you with my email address.Cheers 73's Dave

    Hi there,Cool - thanks for the very positive feedback !Magnetic loops are great fun to build and also work really well - well worth having a go.Cheers and 73's, Dave

    Hello Gene,Thanks for your interest in the project !At present my design works with a stepper motor but the PCB is designed to operate with either a stepper or DC motor although I haven't actually tested it with a DC motor yet. The controller does not care about the capacitor value - if the loop is resonant between 3.5MHz and 29MHz the tuner should be able to find the loop and track it. My plan is to get the PCBs back (arriving soon) build and do a bit more field testing. If everything does to plan I will make boards available for cost price. I will get back to you once I have done a bit more field testing ......Cheers, Dave G7IYK

    Thank you Mickey,Good to get some feedback although I think I'll stick to lower powers :)Cheers, Dave

    View Instructable »
  • Magnetic Loop Antenna Automated Tuner

    Thank you Paulo,Appreciate the feedback.73's Dave G7IYK

    Hi Mike,Many thanks for the feedback :) much appricated !!!!Cheers, Dave

    Great - if you like the project and don't know what it is my work is done :)Cheers, Dave

    View Instructable »
  • Magnetic Loop Antenna Automated Tuner

    Hi Barry,Everything is standard 2.54mm pitch DIL packaging. You can get say the NE612 parts in SOIC packages and then fit them to an adatper board to convert to DIL. I sourced my NE612 in DIL from eBay at about £3.50/unit.Cheers, Dave

    View Instructable »
  • Magnetic Loop Antenna Automated Tuner

    Hi Daryl,The PCB's are in production - new supplier so looking forward to seeing what I get. Boards should come in at £3 a board ....... so cheap !Cheers, Dave

    Hi Barry,I have popped in a jumper for proper 4988/8255 compatibility - PCB's are now in production :)Cheers, Dave

    View Instructable »
  • Magnetic Loop Antenna Automated Tuner

    Hi Barry,Thanks for the feedback !I am laying out the PCB as we speak - looks like they will end up about £10. I was not planning on supplying the source code but can supply either a pre-programmed PIC or HEX files.Looking at the 8255 module versus the 4988 they are very similar. The main difference I can see is the VDD +5V supply. On the 4988 module pin10 is VDD for the +5V logic however on the 8255 module pin 10 is labeled FAULT and is an output. My guess is the 8255 has an onboard regulator whereas the 4988 needs an external +5V supply. So it may be possible to use the 8255 but a track might need cutting or I could put a wire link onto the PCB.Cheers, Dave

    View Instructable »
  • Magnetic Loop Antenna Automated Tuner

    Hi Daryl,Apologies for the delay in gettng back ....Yeh I get it might look a bit overwhelming. I am currently in the process of laying out a printed circuit board (PCB) for the design and will probably get x10 made. This should make it much easier to build if you wanna have a go. So I plan for the PCB to have everything onboard except the LEDs, buttons, rotary encoder and LCD but to have pin headers to attach the aforementioned. That way you can make up the tuner and then put it in a case and wire the LCD, controls and indicators whereever you wish. So if you are ok to hang on for a bit I will let you know when I have boards and have tested one.Cheers & 73's Dave G7IYK

    View Instructable »
  • WSPR (Weak Signal Propagation Reporter) Stand Alone Beacon

    Hello GMC500,That is fine - the only foolish question is a question not asked.At the low HF frequencies below 50MHz signal from the antenna will propagate in many directions. The exact pattern of propagation depends of the antenna used and where is is placed. It is possible to make directional antennas even at low frequencies but even if directional the signal cannot be considered a thin line.One of the main uses of WSPR is to analyse antenna propagation. The WSPR receiver returns quite an accurate measure of received signal to noise. By looking at the receive signal reports from many stations it is possible to deduce the pattern of radiation from the antenna. The other main use of WSPR is to determine which frequency bands are propagating well and which are not. Band propagation is …

    see more »

    Hello GMC500,That is fine - the only foolish question is a question not asked.At the low HF frequencies below 50MHz signal from the antenna will propagate in many directions. The exact pattern of propagation depends of the antenna used and where is is placed. It is possible to make directional antennas even at low frequencies but even if directional the signal cannot be considered a thin line.One of the main uses of WSPR is to analyse antenna propagation. The WSPR receiver returns quite an accurate measure of received signal to noise. By looking at the receive signal reports from many stations it is possible to deduce the pattern of radiation from the antenna. The other main use of WSPR is to determine which frequency bands are propagating well and which are not. Band propagation is dependant on many factors for example day/night, time of year and current solar activity.By contrast :Signals from high frequency microwave data links do travel in very narrow channel maybe only meters in diameter. These links use highly directional microwave antenna and the signals are easily attenuated by trees, buildings etc. However such links operate in the GHz or tens of GHz frequency range - very different from low frequency HF signals.Hope that goes some way to answering your question.Best regards, Dave

    View Instructable »
  • WSPR (Weak Signal Propagation Reporter) Stand Alone Beacon

    Hello GMC500,No a plane flying at distance will have no impact on the link at all. At wavelengths of 40 or 20m the signal will propagate through most objects. The long distance propagation mechanism is ionospheric reflection or skip which occurs around 40-50km into the atmosphere way above any man made or natural object. Personally I have had WSPR transmissions decoded more than 10,000km away on the other side of the world from me in Australia with output power of only a few watts - there must have been thousands of planes in the path. The signal can propagate around the globe due to the high altitude reflections.Cheers, Dave

    View Instructable »
  • WSPR (Weak Signal Propagation Reporter) Stand Alone Beacon

    Hello GMC500,Thanks for your interest in my WSPR beacon.Yes, a break in transmission would cause a receive failure as the FSK symbols are transmitted against a tight time stamp. The WSPR signal bandwidth is only 6Hz and so it is quite immune to broadband interference but a stong narrow band interferer near the receiver on exactly the correct frequency could jam the transmission. As the transmission is very slow, narrowband and forward error corrected the receiver is capable of successfully decoding data some 28dB under the noise floor - hence it is possible to be decoded the other side of the planet when radiating only a few watts. At HF frequencies objects such as birls, buildings and most other objects will not block the signal. At HF the main propagation mechanism is ionospheric re…

    see more »

    Hello GMC500,Thanks for your interest in my WSPR beacon.Yes, a break in transmission would cause a receive failure as the FSK symbols are transmitted against a tight time stamp. The WSPR signal bandwidth is only 6Hz and so it is quite immune to broadband interference but a stong narrow band interferer near the receiver on exactly the correct frequency could jam the transmission. As the transmission is very slow, narrowband and forward error corrected the receiver is capable of successfully decoding data some 28dB under the noise floor - hence it is possible to be decoded the other side of the planet when radiating only a few watts. At HF frequencies objects such as birls, buildings and most other objects will not block the signal. At HF the main propagation mechanism is ionospheric reflection or skip.Cheers, Dave

    View Instructable »
  • Home Made Electric Glass Fusing Kiln

    Hello,If you want 4000W of power you must wire them in parallel. If you wire them in series you will only get approximately 1000W with each heater generating 250W. So for 4000W wire in parallel.

    View Instructable »
  • Home Made Electric Glass Fusing Kiln

    Hi Brendan,Thanks - I don't really sell stuff just make it for fun and give quite a bit away. Not really sure the total time - maybe 1-2 hours to reach temperature and then I just let it cool slowly. I am never in a rush so might get two firings in a day.

    View Instructable »
  • Home Made Electric Glass Fusing Kiln

    Hi Brendan,Thanks for the feedback - yes the kiln is still opererational and thankfully has not burned down the workshop - I even let it run over night. No idea how much it costs to run - one of my rules is not to look at the electric bill. Attached are some of the pieces myself and my daughter have made.Cheers, Dave

    View Instructable »
  • Ciclop 3D Scanner (BQ & Horus)

    Hi there,Yes the motor has to run in the correct direction - clockwise I think. Silly question but have you gone to the software preferences and reversed the motor as the error message suggests ? The other option is that you can reverse any two of the motor wires and the direction will reverse.

    View Instructable »
  • Automated Macro Focus Rail

    Hi Mark,Excellent - I can help you if you want to have a crack at building a rail. A couple of other guys have already been successful. I can supply you a programmed tested PIC micro and have all the GUI software for download. So you just have to build the hardware - leave the software/firmware to me. Message me via instructables and send an email address for easier communication.

    View Instructable »
  • DropArt - Precision Two Drop Photographic Collider

    Hi Jimmy,Fantastic feedback and wow your images are outstanding ! I'll teach you to solder if you teach me how to get such cool drop images :)Using technology to build a project to create art has always been something I have really enjoyed. Working with Jimmy to build this project has been very rewarding - there have been a couple of hickups but nothing Jimmy hasn't been able to handle. At the end of the day the build is complete and his images speak for themselves. Some of the best drop images I have seen. The DropArt project is but a photographic tool - you still need to know what you are doing in order to produce beautiful and imaginative images.Good job ! Dave

    View Instructable »
  • DropArt - Precision Two Drop Photographic Collider

    Hi JIm,Excellent work - very satisfying for me to follow the process of you building my design. Also a very useful process as you picked up design issues that I had not considered and therefore in the process of building your DropArt unit you have improved the design.Have fun with the unit !All the very best, Dave

    View Instructable »
  • Automated Macro Focus Rail

    Hello there,Thank you for the very positive feedback !Yes, I measured a minimum travel of just over 5um at one step and 1/16 stepping. Obviously this is just a function of the mechanics and there are plenty of other budget mechanical rails available with a finer pitch lead screw although I wouldn't think you would need anything less than 5um.Best regards, Dave

    View Instructable »
  • DropArt - Precision Two Drop Photographic Collider

    Hi there, Thank you for the positive feedback - much appriciated. If you do want to go ahead and build the DropArt project I can supply and programmed and tested PIC microcontroller for cost price (about £5 + postage).Cheers, Dave

    Hi there,Sure - if you send me a private message via Instructables we can exchange emails and go from there.I look forward to hearing from you. Dave

    View Instructable »
  • DropArt - Precision Two Drop Photographic Collider

    Thank you very much for the positive feedback !Instructables is a good motivation for a project and to get it finished and polished to the point where it can be written up and released. The devil is always in the detail but the detail is where you learn new things so it's a win-win situation.Cheers, Dave

    View Instructable »
  • DropArt - Precision Two Drop Photographic Collider

    Hi Jack-B,Thank you - very pleased you enjoyed the project !Cheers, Dave

    View Instructable »
  • Automated Macro Focus Rail

    Hi there,Very pleased you like the project. There isn't currently a Mac based application for the focus rail. I was under the impression it was possible to run Windows based applications on a Mac in an emulation mode ? The focus rail application has a very low overhead so this might be a good option although I have not tried this as have no Mac equipment.

    View Instructable »
  • DropArt - Precision Two Drop Photographic Collider

    Hello, sorry for the delay.It is a little difficult to say if your valves would be suitable. The value I am using can open and close very quickly - in about 10ms. The valve I used is quite inexpensive and there are lots on ebay. You could try a different valve as an experiment.Cheers, Dave

    View Instructable »
    • DropArt - Precision Two Drop Photographic Collider
      16,147 views
      145 favorites
      53 comments
  • Automated Macro Focus Rail

    Hi There,Thank you for your feedback and interest. No my design is not compatible with Helicon - I designed it stand alone considering other software. I just needed a focuser rail so sat down and came up with a design that suited my needs. I use Helicon for stacking the output images from the rail but don't use Helicon remote.Cheers, Dave

    View Instructable »
  • DropArt - Precision Two Drop Photographic Collider

    Hello, I have added a parts list and some images in a new step 10

    Hello Bert,I am more than happy to send out a pre-programmed PIC with bootloader. Please send me a private message via instructables and we can sort out how you would like to proceed.Cheers, Dave

    Thank you - wow praise indeed !Appreciate the very positive feedback ...Cheers, Dave

    Hi Bill,Sure I can try and answer any question you have. I personally I never used the raspberry platform as I have always found it has far more features than I need. I also like to code from the ground up rather than have an operating system running. Most of my projects rely on quite accurate timing and so I prefer to be totally in control. I am sure you could implement the project using a Pi but I am not sure how.Fire away with questions though and I will do my best :)Cheers, Dave

    View Instructable »
  • DropArt - Precision Two Drop Photographic Collider

    Good point and very true - I find it best to use the flash units on as low a power as possible which generates a short flash duration. Also images should be taken in subdued lighting to minimise blur due to ambient light - I will add this into the description

    Hello, there are lots of the same valve on ebay - this is the one I purchased :https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/12V-DC-4W-Electric-Solenoid-Valve-Air-Gas-Water-Fuel-Normally-Closed-1-4-2-Way/312881213103?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649

    I also had a crack at this years ago but gave up because the results were poor and it used up lots of expensive film - modern technology has finally made it practical.

    Thank you for the great feedback - with the computer control over drop size and collision duration you can produce the same effects as different nozzle sizes.Very pleased you liked the project !

    View Instructable »
  • DropArt - Precision Two Drop Photographic Collider

    Thank you very much :)

    Many thanks for your feedback !

    Thank you Jessy,Very pleased you like the project - if you have any questions please fire away !Cheers, Dave

    Thank you :)

    View Instructable »
  • Automated Macro Focus Rail

    Hi Bill,Excellent - always good when someone wants to have a crack at building one of my designs. Probably easlier if we carry on discussions via email rather than this interface. If you send me a prviate message via instructables with your email I can get back to you with more information.Cheers, Dave

    View Instructable »
  • Automated Macro Focus Rail

    Hi Jim, thanks for the positive feedback. Yeh I am thinking of banging out a bunch of PCB's for guys that might want to build the design. Indeed I have also seen systems for, as you say, hundreds of pounds. The pre-flash PIC is not a problem as it has an embedded boatloader for subsequent re-flash and software updates. I will consider a kit if there is enough demand.

    View Instructable »
  • Home Made Electric Glass Fusing Kiln

    Hello Oliver,Yes indeed - the brick interior is pinned togther using a high temperature adhesive (1250 C max operating temperature) which comes in a cartridge. The bricks in the lid are secured in a similar way. I suspect the fibre blanket is being compressed reducing its ability to insulate. However, it was much easier to position the bricks and line the box with the blanket present.Cheers, Dave

    View Instructable »
  • Automated Macro Focus Rail

    Hi Bantman,Interesting - I wasn't aware there was a PCB contest, I will do some digging to find out what it is all about.Cheers, Dave

    View Instructable »
  • dtrewren's instructable Automated Macro Focus Rail's weekly stats:
    • Automated Macro Focus Rail
      3,188 views
      13 favorites
      9 comments
  • Automated Macro Focus Rail

    No problem - if you need any info let me know.

    View Instructable »
  • Automated Macro Focus Rail

    Hello there,Keeping the camera and subject still between frames and adjusting the lens in practice is extremely difficult - it's just very hard to adjust the lens to get consistent slice depth. Often the camera/lens combination is only moving by less than a millimeter between shots and consistent depth of field overlap between shots is important to get a good stacking result. The best solution is to keep the lens focus fixed and move the camera/lens with respect to the subject.I tend not to include links to products for sale in the main body of the instructable (looks like I am selling stuff) but as you have asked specifically here is eBay number of the rail I bought, just enter the number on the eBay search line, cost was £36 : 173877929011Cheers, Dave

    View Instructable »
  • Automated Macro Focus Rail

    Thank you Jessy - was a lot of fun, now to use for photography :)

    View Instructable »
  • Home Made Electric Glass Fusing Kiln

    Hi there, this is a tricky question to answer or comment on because it depends on many factors. As the temperature increases it becomes more and more difficult to increase further. The heaters become less efficient, you lose more heat to the ambient surroundings. My heaters are around 3800W in a space similar to the volume you are proposing and 850 degrees is about the limit which is fine for glass. To get to 1020 degrees might be a struggle - it is not just a matter of time. Once you reach a point where the energy in equals the energy out it simply will not get any hotter unless you increase the input power or decrease the losses. I think you will have to try it and see how far you get. I will be very interested to hear how you get on - best of luck and be careful !

    View Instructable »
  • WSPR (Weak Signal Propagation Reporter) Stand Alone Beacon

    Hi James,That is excellent news - very pleased it worked out !No problem, any other issues I might be able to help with please fire away.Cheers,Dave

    View Instructable »
  • WSPR (Weak Signal Propagation Reporter) Stand Alone Beacon

    Hello James,Ok, I can see what you are trying to do. I am not sure the continuous phase is the issue. In my design I am simply reprogramming the AD9850 direct digital synth device at the tone interval of 0.683 seconds and with a tone spacing of 1.46Hz. I am reasonably confident that the phase is not continuous between tones. I have not read anywhere that the phase has to be continuous. Is it possible that you are incorrectly encoding the tones ?If have used Matlab in the past but many moons ago. I tend to write in C becasue although maybe not as powerful as Matlab I am generally coding to implement on a micro so if the model and target code are in the same language it helps.If you like I can generate a tone sequence for a particular input and then just double check the tone encoding …

    see more »

    Hello James,Ok, I can see what you are trying to do. I am not sure the continuous phase is the issue. In my design I am simply reprogramming the AD9850 direct digital synth device at the tone interval of 0.683 seconds and with a tone spacing of 1.46Hz. I am reasonably confident that the phase is not continuous between tones. I have not read anywhere that the phase has to be continuous. Is it possible that you are incorrectly encoding the tones ?If have used Matlab in the past but many moons ago. I tend to write in C becasue although maybe not as powerful as Matlab I am generally coding to implement on a micro so if the model and target code are in the same language it helps.If you like I can generate a tone sequence for a particular input and then just double check the tone encoding is correct. You gave a sequence at the start of your message, what was the input callsign, locator and power used to generate this sequence ?Might be better to private message me your email rather than using this Q&A page.Look forward to hearing from you

    View Instructable »
  • Hello Chris,Yes, this was the part I most scratched my head over. Many of the elements come fitted with cables which are not going to take the heat. My kiln was for glass and so only needed to hit around 850C mark and so I could use copper as a wire conductor. My solution was to encase the heater element end connections in fire wool - this is also the solution many commercial glass fusing units seem to adopt. The heaters I used had stainless screw terminals in ceramic end caps and so can handle the high temperature. Some elements have a spring loaded terminal but I didn't think that would be up to the job. I am not sure exactly what the temperature rating of the elements is but after many firings I have had no failures.

    View Instructable »
  • Hello Mike,Unfortunately, I don't have the exact source of the elements I used as I bought them as a one off job lot from eBay. However, there are lots of similar elements on eBay. I went for 400W elements so that I could reach about 4kW of power and have enough individual elements to spread the heat output. I also went for an element with a bolt type terminal at each end as I was planning on mounting the elements into a bus bar. If you do a search on "Quartz heating elements" you will find loads of options to suit your design.

    View Instructable »
  • Hello Roald,Absolutely, there should be no problem coupling the PC410 to your kiln. The PC410 will need a K-type thermocouple (there may already be one fitted to the kiln). You will also need a way for the PC410 to switch the heater - if you look at my Instructable you can see I used a solid state relay which will be more than adequate. Once you have everything hooked up you need to put the PC410 into it's self calibration mode whereby it will take the kiln temperature up to a preset point (I chose 400C) and then it will heat and cool the kiln about this temperature a few times. Once self calibration is complete you are done and can start using the kiln with firing programs.Fire away if you have further questions.

    View Instructable »
  • Hi Kiril,Sure, no problem I can provide you with my current Python script. Also I have used PyInstaller to generate a completely stand alone environment which will run on any PC irrespective of the tools or versions you have installed. If you private message me with your email details I can send you the relevant files.Cheers, Dave

    View Instructable »
  • Hi Mark,Sure I can share the design details. However, before you spend time making a board ... SDR-kits are now selling the entire range of boards at very reasonable prices. They have the complete kit of the board I made PAT-V for £14.40 or the PAT-70M for the 450D IF tap for the same price. I think you would struggle to make the boards for that price. At the time I made my board these kits were not available - all I had was a schematic.Here is the link:https://www.sdr-kits.net/index.php?route=product/category&path=66_73_84Or Google SDR-Kits.Cheers, Dave (G7IYK)

    Hi Mark,Further - that SDR-Kit price is for a fully assembled tested board not a kit !Dave

    View Instructable »
  • Hi Graham,That is great news, very pleased you git everything working. If you have any other questions please fire away (excuse the pun),Cheers, Dave

    View Instructable »
  • Hi there,I picked up a job lot of the elements from eBay for about £5 each. There are lots of similar types of element available like:https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/AC-220V-400W-Quartz-Hea...Depends of the dimensions of your kiln and lid design - I designed my lid around the elements I managed to find.Best regards, Dave

    View Instructable »
  • Hello Graham,Sorry forthe delay, had some time today to look at the controller programming. Hopefullythis format will be ok – written in Word and posted into Instructables.First thingto say is that the format of the menu system for the PC410 may not be in linewith the manual. My PC410 controller has custom firmware for BGA work and soonly some of the menu items are present and some are pre-set.The sequenceof events I use is as follows:-Basicparameter setup-Auto-tuningsequence-FiringsequencesBasic Parameter setup.Theoperational parameter list is accessed by pressing and holding the PAR/SET keyfor three seconds. For my controller thefirst parameter that appears is PROG. Mycontroller displays the following list. Each parameter is accessed by a subsequentpress of the PAR/SET key (manual sec…

    see more »

    Hello Graham,Sorry forthe delay, had some time today to look at the controller programming. Hopefullythis format will be ok – written in Word and posted into Instructables.First thingto say is that the format of the menu system for the PC410 may not be in linewith the manual. My PC410 controller has custom firmware for BGA work and soonly some of the menu items are present and some are pre-set.The sequenceof events I use is as follows:-Basicparameter setup-Auto-tuningsequence-FiringsequencesBasic Parameter setup.Theoperational parameter list is accessed by pressing and holding the PAR/SET keyfor three seconds. For my controller thefirst parameter that appears is PROG. Mycontroller displays the following list. Each parameter is accessed by a subsequentpress of the PAR/SET key (manual section 7.5).PROGTUNE (off)PROP (PIDcontroller proportional component)Int.t (Integral Time)dEr.t(Derivative Time)H c.t (Heatcycle Time)Loc (Configpassword 808)SPH (Setpoint High limit, I set to1000)SPL (Setpoint Low limit, I set to 0)H PL (Maxoutput power, set to 100.0)Snbp (0)OfSt (0)CF (Centigrade / Fahrenheit – I setto C)Addr (Default)bAud (default)Set those in boldMycontroller is pre-set for a K-type thermocouple and can’t be changed – yours maybedifferent. So look for a parameter inthe list called “Sn” – see software configuration section 8 of the manual. I assume you also are using a K-type thermocoupleand so need to set this parameter to “CAtc” if available.Theparameters listed above SPH and SPL are important to set up as you can onlyuse a set point temperature between these two limits.Auto-tuning sequenceThecontroller uses a PID algorithm to achieve stable temperature. A PID is notoriously tricky to configure but fortunatelythe PC410 has an automatic tuning algorithm which makes setting the controlloop really simple.I used thefollowing steps:-Setthe SPH and SPL as described above-Usethe up and down arrow buttons to configure a sensible mid-temperature set-point,I chose a value of 400. The general fullfuse temperature for glass is about 800C so 400 sits in the middle.-Pressand hold the PAR/SET key to enter the config menu. Press PAR/SET until you see “tunE”. Use the up down arrow key to select ON. The controller will now start auto-tuning andyou will notice the heater switch on full power. Temperature will climb at full rate until400C is reached. The controller will overshoot a few degrees and the heaterwill switch off. The temperature will fallto under 400 and the heater will switch back on. Again the temperature will exceed 400 andthen fall below. All the time theset-point on the display will alternate between the temperature and the “tune”indicator. Once this cycle has completedthe heater will switch off and “tune” is no longer displayed – that’s it tuningcomplete. The controller has now learnedthe thermal characteristics of your kiln and automatically configured the PIDcontrol loop.Firing sequencesThe PC410can store ten, eight stage firing sequences (I think). Each sequence consists of multiple sets ofthree parameters:-Rampin degrees per minute / second-Targetsetpoint in degrees-Dwelltime in minutesSee manualsection 12.2So for your sequenceyou would program the following:-Selectthe program you want to store using the PTN key, I start with zero.-Pressthe SET/PROG key and you will see the first parameter r1 or ramp rate one. This parameter is little confusing as it isconfigured as (degrees/minute . degrees/second). You need 150 degrees/hour which is 150/3600 ~0.04 degrees / second. This is anapproximation and will give you 0.04 x 3600 = 144 degrees per hour but it isnot that important. So r1 is set to 0.04-PressPAR/SET to see the next parameter Target Setpoint L1 in your case set to 620-PressPAR/SET again to get Dwell time d1 in your case set to 40x60 = 2400. My controller sets the Dwell in seconds notminutes as shown in the manual, yours maybe be different.Your remainparameters are, using PAR/SET to select:-r2 150/3600 ~ 0.04 degrees/second-L2 675-d2 40x60 = 2400 (assuming seconds)-r3 STEP (reduce rate to zero and one moredown arrow click) STEP tells the controller to achieve the next set point asfast as possible with no ramp.-L3 860-d3 12x60 = 720 (assuming seconds)-r4 STEP (as fast as possible)-L4 515-d4 40x60 = 2400 (assuming seconds)-r5 65/3600 ~ 0.02 degrees/second-L5 370-d5 2x60 = 120 (assuming seconds)-r6 End (reduce rate to zero and then twomore down arrow clicks)To start afiring sequence just select the sequence number using PTN key and then pressRUN/PROG. The display will tell you thecurrent temperature, set point and program step.The most important part is to getyour controller tuned otherwise everything else won’t make much sense.I hope thishelps, if you have questions please fire away and I can refine the detail ifconfusing.Cheers, Dave

    View Instructable »
  • Hello Graham,Good to hear from you and great build- your kiln looks the business.No problem with help on the controller, I will remind myself how to program the PC 410 and get back to you this week. The first thing you need to do is set the PC 410 to characterise your kiln's thermal properties. There is a special test mode you can initiate whereby the controller automatically increases/decreases the kiln temperature in order to "learn" your kiln's unique thermal profile. Once this has been completed the controller should be able to hold your kiln at a particular temperature to within a degree (it is very stable and accurate).I will be aback soon.Cheers, Dave

    View Instructable »
  • Hello Lesley,Sorry for the delay, I was on holiday.I think standard gas struts would be fine. The outside temperature of my kiln to the sides is only about 70C and even on the top only hits about 120C. I doubt there arespecial struts used on kilns for home use.Let me know how you get on.Cheers, Dave

    View Instructable »
  • Yes, you are correct you should see the sketch code. I am not sure what the message "Hack file to use Arduino IDE" means. I Googled the message but could not really find anything ? Maybe you have to be connected to the Arduino board. Have you selected the board type ?

    View Instructable »
  • How are you trying to open the firmware sketch ?

    View Instructable »
  • Hello,I have emailed you all the required information.Cheers,Dave

    View Instructable »
    • WSPR (Weak Signal Propagation Reporter) Stand Alone Beacon
      8,677 views
      101 favorites
      14 comments
  • Hello,If you are running from a 120v outlet rated at 15A you will only be able to a total power of approximately (120 x 15) = 1800w. If you want to support more power than this you will need multiple power outlets. The internal breaker I used was rated at 20A. This was to protect against a malfunction or short circuit. The current 20A breaker should be ok for your 15A outlet. I think the main issue is whether you have enough available power to generate the heating required. How big is your kiln going to be ?Regards, Dave

    View Instructable »
  • Thank you for the feedback, very pleased you enjoyed the project !Yes, I did think some video of the PC application would have been good. Unfortunately, in my workshop the laptop I was using doesn't really have the grunt to capture video. If I get a bit of time I will grab some video from my office machine and add in some clips. To be honest other than the time ticking by the PC application is not very animated and you would essentially just see the same as the static photograph/screen shot.Cheers, Dave

    View Instructable »
  • Hello Rudi,Many thanks for the feedback, I will take a look at the Python project !In terms of the software availability please see the comment I have just posted on the thread.Many thanks, Dave

    Hi Francis,Sounds like a great project in the making, I like the idea of LAN access. In terms of software availability please see the comment I have just added to the thread.Many thanks, Dave

    Hello guys,Many thanks for your feedback - very pleased you liked the project :)In terms of the releasing the software, I have been thinking about this. I am not sure at the moment if I might like to take this further as a product in the future. So I would rather not put the software out on the net for public release. However, if anyone wants to see the software or build a beacon of their own I have no problem with sharing on an individual basis with the gentlemen's agreement that at the moment it stays a private share.So, if anyone would like the software please send me a private message.Hope that is ok ?Cheers, Dave

    Thank you very much for the feedback !In terms of the software availability please see the comment I have added to the thread.Cheers, Dave

    View Instructable »
  • Excellent - I write everything up hoping it might prove of interested !

    Thank you, very pleased you enjoy it :)

    View Instructable »
  • Sorry for the delay, I was on holiday ....I have uploaded the horus software to my web-space and you can download here:http://www.dt-space.co.uk/Horus_0.2rc1.exeCheers,Dave

    View Instructable »
  • Hello,I didn't create a custom plate for the bearing holder - I printed the standard parts, not having to generate anything new or custom ?Can you indicate where in the instructable you think it says this ?Cheers,Dave

    View Instructable »
  • Hello Rebecca,Can I just clarify if you are having issues with the firmware that you flash onto the Arduino platform or the PC application software ?Cheers, Dave

    View Instructable »
  • Hello jlcurve,Nice work !I was planning on writing a C# GUI to control the Altec but never got around to it. I generally found that once I had my favourite firing profiles set up I didn't really change anything. However, having the temperature curve per firing would have been nice. I will take a look at your interface.Maybe you should do a quite Instructable ?Cheers, Dave

    View Instructable »
  • I am sorry - I don't understand your question ?

    Sorry, it is not clear what you mean - the camera is fitted correctly and operates as expected ? Can you provide more information ?

    View Instructable »
  • Hello Jay,The laser modules are set up to produce vertical scan lines. You shouldn't need any programming experience as all the software is already written. It is just a case of flashing the firmware onto the Ardunio board and installing the PC software.

    View Instructable »
  • Hello Jim,Sorry for the slow reply. Sure I can send you schematics and PCB layout. Please can you send me your email address and I will send you a link to the information.Cheers,Dave (G7IYK)

    View Instructable »