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  • Single Sided PCB Home Fabrication (Presensitized PCB)

    Great tip about the baby oil, I have used water which might not work as well. Tinning all traces like they did "back in the day" is a neat way to prevent oxidation.As it requires a lot of time, effort and equipment I stopped making my own boards some years ago. You can get a lot of professionally made boards for the money you need to spend on these things.Great tutorial if you want to make boards as a hobby, or can't wait for a delivery from a PCB manufacturer... or if you have secret projects. :D

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  • How to Repair Peeling or Failing Clear Coat on a Budget

    Nice job!But... you're not actually repairing the clear coat, you're repainting the areas that are affected. So it would kind of be "Did you put too much salt in the food, here's how to fix it" and then it's fixed by cooking a new meal...

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  • DIY Cardboard Smartphone Film Scanner

    Nice!I like the LED-tubes.Got a film scanner in the flatbed scanner unfortunately, so I can't be motivated into building one. ;-)

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  • How to Make Ultra Realistic Eyes Using 3D Printing and Casting

    Nice, so you start off with a miniature "Death Star"... then paint it grey and then some tiny tiny Star Wars ships, forget about the eye thing and start making laser sounds. :DBeautiful eyes BTW, the things you can do (with a Death Star).

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  • Nice, nice color selection. Apart from the parts not 3D printed it really is an "Entirely 3D Printed Speaker". Perhaps "Almost Entirely" would have been better suited. Very nice though, I usually use blue and white for my 3D prints as well.

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  • e5frog commented on dankly1's instructable Cheap DIY Front Panels

    I'm wondering, doesn't the plastic film wrinkle when you tighten the nuts?What kind of film is that exactly? Seems worrying that it will clog up a laser printer, if you use transparent films that are meant to be used for drawing or for an inkjet printer they can melt in the laser printer and mess things up.

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  • I wonder it it gets warm, didn't see any ventilation holes.

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  • It says alkaline on the batteries so it's most likely not acid but should be neutralized with acid - if washing with water isn't enough. Nice to see things getting repaired and not thrown away.

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  • e5frog commented on OEsirik's instructable RF Transmitter and Receiver

    433MHz is a license free band in the EU for low effect (LPD433). In Sweden (possibly wider area, don't know) the allowed band is 433.050 - 434.790MHz and you often find them in cordless headphones, remote light/power switches etc

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  • e5frog commented on EammonL's instructable TLID Clock

    This is beautiful!You should make one with two balls, one for hours, one for minutes.

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  • Nice!It would have been really handy to have holders for the bits (magnets?) so you could use them if needed.

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  • Nice build for everyone with more time than money (as well as necessary equipment). I was thinking - using a stepper motor, that steps, doesn't that create a slightly jerky movement? Wouldn't a DC motor with gears produce a smoother movement?

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  • e5frog commented on mrwonton's instructable Smartphone Macro Lens

    Very nice, looks very good. For simplicity I would have tried another method for the clamp - which wouldn't be as beautiful though. Thumbs up!

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  • I was thinking mostly that if sensing a too loud volume it could have a timer before adjusting the volume to sense if the volume stayed that loud so that short loud sounds would pass without any change. IMHO, when the loud sound stops it should restore volume by the same amount of IR pulses that way it should get back to the same setting as before the commercial (or other continuous loud sound). If adding further functions it could have a timer with a night time setting where it won't allow a volume over a certain level at night not to disturb family or perhaps neighbours...

    Neat idea, there has to be CC to decode then I guess. Do commercials often have closed captions?

    Nice idea, I'm also annoyed with the difference in volume, I have often wondered if there was a way to sense when commercials started (and ended) and automatically change the volume. When hearing unwanted sound it's a lot more disturbing than say playing your favorite record at a loud volume. If this worked on kids I'd build one right away. ;-)When watching an action movie though, there's normal talk and then intense sound (gun shots, explosions etc) - or other similar dynamics. Seems to me there's a risk that the OSD volume bar will pop up right in the movie and when someone it talking straight after such an event you won't be able to hear them. Some kind of average calculation over a few seconds could help prevent temporary loud sounds to trigger the volume setting?Even if the commerc…

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    Nice idea, I'm also annoyed with the difference in volume, I have often wondered if there was a way to sense when commercials started (and ended) and automatically change the volume. When hearing unwanted sound it's a lot more disturbing than say playing your favorite record at a loud volume. If this worked on kids I'd build one right away. ;-)When watching an action movie though, there's normal talk and then intense sound (gun shots, explosions etc) - or other similar dynamics. Seems to me there's a risk that the OSD volume bar will pop up right in the movie and when someone it talking straight after such an event you won't be able to hear them. Some kind of average calculation over a few seconds could help prevent temporary loud sounds to trigger the volume setting?Even if the commercial is now (in the US at least) supposed to have the same "average volume" as the program they accompany - there's nothing that prevents the station from lowering the volume slightly just before the commercial - so that there's a difference in volume anyway.In Sweden currently we mostly have commercials for various online "casinos", not sure it's better than the female hygiene products or diapers usually seen before these.Anyway, nice solution, hope your dad is happy with it. I believe you can also share your design on Oshpark, so people can order it right away without having to upload any files.

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  • e5frog followed balder0
      • TV Commercial Volume Suppressor
  • Nice to see someone making this proper masterpiece from scratch and not using store bought cookies as an ingredient.Looks good!

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  • Not all of these tips require a ziploc bag, could be just about any plastic bag...

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  • When I was a student and didnt' have much money to spend, this was how I got parts (well, I desoldered them properly rather than using a blow torch). Now-a-days it's rarely worth the efffort unless you need parts right away.How do you know parts are OK without testing everything? Getting $100 worth of test equipment just for that purpose - seems it's cheaper to buy parts new.

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  • Nice idea, could be tough to grab a battery if there are too many stacked on top.

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  • These PSU:s often require a load to make them start and keep a proper voltage, a low ohm high watt resistor between 5V and ground (or 12V). The power on signal usually only needs an impulse to start, almost any low voltage push button would work. The larger button in the instructable could probably be used to turn mains on/off.

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  • I like the idea, looked fine until you just stuffed the components into the case. What about isolation distance, have you checked? It seems like a bad idea having something conductive touchable from the outside in case something goes wrong. Maybe some heat transfer compound would be good, perhaps even the two component epoxy type, looks like you just rolled some desoldering braid around that resistor and stuffed it in the slot.

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  • Seems like a neat idea, just worried about how even the light is, have you tried it, does it work? Can you wash away all the coating you planned to?Maybe board or UV panels need to be moving to get an even exposure?Other questions are, is the light strong enough, how long does it take for an exposure? I have only handled professional equipment and homemade versions with fluorescent tubes before. Haven't explored the option with UV-leds.

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  • Tack Simon, behöver du elektronik-hjälp så är det bara att fråga.

    alias här och sedan snabel-A gmail.com

    I'd love to buy one, not sure I want to make one, don't have the kind of nice large workshop. As it took less than ten minutes to make one I guess I could drive up to Trollhättan from Älvängen and see it being made. ;-)

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  • e5frog commented on randofo's instructable Secret Drawer Lock

    Why even use something electric, a magnet and a mechanical setup could lock it.

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  • e5frog commented on MrFixItDIY's instructable DIY Cheese Slicer Board

    That's cheap, never seen one like it before and I didn't know they were so cheap to buy. I'm aware it's instructables, I'm a member since 2011. I very much like instructions how you repair or make something cheaper than buying it, clever solutions or to make stuff you can't buy. If there was an instructable how to make a pencil in just 23 hours using tools for $500 - I'd rather buy a pack for $10.

    Buying one costs about $20. https://www.hwlarsen.se/se/product/ostskrare/ostskrare-50288

    If you're unhygienic, perhaps you could wash your hands before handing the cheese with a normal cheap "osthyvel" - chesse usually has plastic wrapped on it though so you don't need to touch the cheese with anything but the cheese grader or whatever the official term is.This instructable contraption doesn't move the cheese forward by itself, so you'd need to handle that all over as well. Probably pull it loose from the board and move it ahead depending on stickyness.It's a quite decorative version of the danish string type of cheese grader.There are finished ones to get as well if you're lazy.http://www.gemzell.se/blogg/wp-content/uploads/2010/04/image_0137.jpg

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  • Most things aren't good to inhale, water for example, but I'm not sure water will cause cancer. ;-)I understand why it was easier to skip the wool for the manufacturer in the first place. I have been looking differently an those mini-ovens now... I've got a few used spare regulators at work and I'm tempted.

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  • "...is classed as hazardous. It may cause cancer by inhalation and is irritating to the skin..." sounds bad, there was no better option?

    Very nice instructable, I was considering getting an oven for SMD soldering, now I have gotten a few good ideas.

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  • Yes, if you drill a hole in a PET bottle cap or similar you could mount the switch inside that and make it less likely to be pushed by mistake.

    Pretty nice build, can't say how dangerous it is but I have some thoughts. I would have put the mains cable joint inside the box with tie wrap, not just hot glue. Fastening a heat sink with hot glue seems adventurous. ;-) but I guess it shouldn't go very hot if you just hold the button for a short time. Tips might burn out after some uses, could be handy to have them easily replaceable, maybe using a pair of standard nails/needles/screws. I'd also put two buttons, one on each side of the box that you need to hold simultaneously so you don't accidentally activate it. Or perhaps a switch in combination with the push button for the same reason. A switch on the mains cable could also be a nice thing as the transformer will heat up when standing idle.

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  • Wonderful Chinglish, if you feel down, grab one of those manuals and have a good laugh. ;-)It's a nice instructable, very useful if you have more time than money on your hands. I was worried about the heat problem but I see it was addressed already in the comments with a good tip how to better mount those batteries together again. I put a PSU and a cord on mine, rarely use the tool so the batteries are always either discharged or need to be in the charger. If sizes match you can put the PSU inside the battery compartment.

    Seems nice, might be cheaper to buy new cells than to get one of those chargers though.

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  • e5frog commented on tlp801's instructable Trash-Vac!!

    Clever - they should sell them like that, with a battery holder instead so you don't have to move it near an outlet.

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  • I work at a PCB factory so I don't really have the need but I've seen the toner transfer method before and it seems very common to get cracks in the toner that causes breaks on the traces. Is it possible to fill those in with a pen of some sort? You could just draw che traces with a pen directly on the copper if it's not complicated, or tape it, or use the rub on versions.

    Doesn't look very nice, maybe some polish with steel wool helps.

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  • Doesn't currently work with the cam-file provided, hole coordinates are sized up maybe 10 times. If changing cam for drills to EXCELLON_24 instead of EXCELLON it works fine from EagleCAD 7.6.It doesn't seem to do the outline board is just rectangualr, if selecting Outline it just shows the inside of the holes. Pretty nice anyway.

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  • It's a really time consuming place to store your deck of cards, one or two hours in either direction?

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  • It would be clear to anyone he meant...... wait for it....250mAh...and not 0.250mAhDots were added as decoration - in anticipation of the result, not as a decimal comma.

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  • For next google:r, different original PS3 controllers seem to function in different ways, some can apparently be used with plain chargers, someone managed to get charging working by connecting DATA+ to GND.I tried that, also tried grounding "pin X" or 4 pr ID as it can be called (that isn't connected in most mini USB cables) as that was the solution for a GPS my boss used - that also didn't work, grounding "DATA-" neither "both DATA" and also not connecting 100k from the +5V to each DATA-pin as suggested by Roshy10 here.According to sources "USB charger used must act as a USB host device" so charging from various other devices such as cable box, computer etc etc will work fine. Sony sells their own wall charger of course. Must be the most power wast…

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    For next google:r, different original PS3 controllers seem to function in different ways, some can apparently be used with plain chargers, someone managed to get charging working by connecting DATA+ to GND.I tried that, also tried grounding "pin X" or 4 pr ID as it can be called (that isn't connected in most mini USB cables) as that was the solution for a GPS my boss used - that also didn't work, grounding "DATA-" neither "both DATA" and also not connecting 100k from the +5V to each DATA-pin as suggested by Roshy10 here.According to sources "USB charger used must act as a USB host device" so charging from various other devices such as cable box, computer etc etc will work fine. Sony sells their own wall charger of course. Must be the most power wasting charging ever having to have the PS3, computer or cable box running just to charge when a small plain USB charger would have been enough - we have loads of those, right? I have the controller model called CECHZC2E A1.You can buy a host chip though, for example the TI TPS2540, which was the first I found. I guess they saved putting a chip like that into the controller and let the host manage the charging instead. Haven't checked the datasheet but maybe it's enough to add one of those to make it work.

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  • e5frog commented on mikeasaurus's instructable No-wrinkle Button Seam

    Hmm... doesn't that stuff you iron on get wrinkled even worse next time it's washed - and it's even worse getting the wrinkles out? Isn't ironing it enough?

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  • Just because you can build something dangerous, doesn't mean you have to - and if you do, not necessarily use it. Problem is that other people may try and do the same from inspiration, not thinking about the consequences. If you have a workshop with tools like that I'm sure you should already have some sense of preservation. Very nicely built though.

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  • Before twisting wires together, prepare shrink tubing over at least one wire - always annoying having to redo the job because of that. ;-) It's pretty much like the "Lineman splice" I guess.

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