Tell us about yourself!
Thank you! That's very helpful. Now I think I can go ahead and build it. Perhaps I can write a simple Arduino sketch to send 8 characters plus the CR over to the controller board? Can I just tie into the RX, 5V and GND lines directly from an Arduino board? Or does it need to receive data structured to match standard RS232 protocol? You mention that it was designed to work with an Arduino. Do you have a sketch that you would like to share? Cheers!
This may be too broad of a question. But I'm not familiar with using the old style RS232 serial interface. I don't have any old PC's that still have it. USB-RS232 converters are common so I suppose I could use that. But how do I send characters bytes to the display character board? Do I use a terminal application on my computer? I went ahead and had PCB's manufactured and I have all the parts including the HDSP 2000 displays. But now I realize that I let my enthusiasm get ahead of me. I can easily assemble the board but I really have no clear idea how to proceed from there. I'm starting from rock bottom. Can you help?
HackerBox 0070: Radio Over Internet
So here's what worked for me. I downloaded the project (my computer automatically unzipped it) and I got a master file named "ESP32-Radio-master." I deleted "-master" from the file name. Now I have a file named "ESP32-Radio." I was then able to work on compiling ESP32-Radio.ino. I initially got some errors and I had to add and update some libraries before it would finally compile and load to the DevBoard (thanks again to earthwormchris' comments). It's still pretty buggy, so something is completely right. I've got to work with it some more.
Well, I've got it working, mostly. IR remote control doesn't seem to be doing anything (worked o.k. with the test sketch). I can only select stations through the browser. Seems to be a few bugs that need to be worked out. Thank you earthwormchris1 and Med City Geek for your helpful comments. There doesn't seem to be any option to set preferences for the SPI pins in the configuration screen. Does that matter?
I wondered why there was a big circle cut out of the spork tool. Maybe to reduce weight? My wife has informed me that it's for measuring out a single portion of pasta. Well duh! Why didn't I think of that?
Does anyone know of a list of all the code instructions for the version of BASIC that works with these retroShields? I get syntax errors for anything other than the most simple instructions. When I enter this instruction I get syntax error: A=INT(14*RND(1))+2. In fact I can't seem to get it to accept any floating point numbers at all. It's not much fun to work with right now. There must be more to it.
Congratulations on getting everything running. I'm working my way through with the Z80 shield today. Everything is working except for the keypad/LCD shield. I've enabled USE_LCD_KEYPAD 1 as you suggested. But nothing seems to happen. The LCD powers up/lights up. I've adjusted the contrast to make sure that characters will be visible. The RST button works. But that's all. No data seems to be going to the LCD shield. Is there something I might be overlooking? Maybe something else in the code that I need to modify? Any ideas?
You Sir have an eagle eye! Yes that works! I don't know what it's trying to tell me, but it works.
I'm working my way through with the Z80 shield today. Everything is working except for the keypad/LCD shield. I've enabled USE_LCD_KEYPAD 1. But nothing seems to happen. The LCD powers up/lights up. I've adjusted the contrast to make sure that characters will be visible. The RST button works. But that's all. No data seems to be going to the LCD shield. Is there something I might be overlooking? Maybe something else in the code that I need to modify? Any ideas?
Thank you for your detailed response! At least I know that it ought to be working with both sketches. I'll compare the two codes to see if they are the same. Maybe somehow something was changed between the two.
Add a Digital Display to an Old Communications Receiver
Yes indeed! I’m looking forward to that. Maybe I can be one of the first to receive packets from the new bird in the sky using my Hackerboxes ground station!
Any luck receiving satellite packets yet?
Yes. Same here. The only satellite that passes over my ground station is the "little foot." I periodically get a string of partial packets too sometimes with CRC error notifications. I don't know where the data is originating but I doubt it's from the VR3X-A. It's good to know that you are having the same experience I am. I did order a Heltec LoRa module for the 433 MHz band from AliExpress. Maybe I'll have better luck with Norby.
Have you received any satellite packets yet?
I set up my TinyGS ground station but it looks like there's no action on the 915 MHz band. No packets have been received from any satellites working that band for months according to the TinyGS website. Unfortunately everything seems to be happening on the 433 MHz band. I guess I'll try to find something on AliExpress that will work in the frequency range. Maybe someone will shoot up a new satellite soon that will work with the Heltec?
That was a great idea for the antenna!
I just now finished doing the same. Even if it doesn't work much better (too much noise) at least it looks better. Two little copper washers popped out when I removed the bracket. It was a b***h trying to get them back in place. But....mission accomplished. Thank you for the idea!
At least the noise goes away when the display blanks out after a few seconds. No good for scanning the band unfortunately.
The FM radio kit is fun and easy to build. Reception is excellent! Unfortunately it's not so great for scanning the FM commercial radio band. The LED display makes a lot of RF noise which obscures the stations. But the display blanks out after a few seconds so that the noise disappears and the station that you're tuned into comes through loud and clear. It's very good if you already know the frequency of the station you want to tune, but not so good if your'e just scanning around the band looking for something to listen to.
I wonder why you would want to make U1 stand higher? Just bend the electrolytic capacitor over and everything will fit perfectly. You did read the instructions right? It specifically says to leave enough slack in the electrolytic cap so that you can bend it over to make room for the IC to sit into place.
All Natural Indigo Sourdough
I challenged my daughter to make this, and she did! Quite a process, took two days. She used her Moms sour dough starter to make the levain but the rest was all her doing. It came out fantastic! And the color is wild! Spectacular!
I've noticed the same. The two variable capacitors don't seem to have much effect on the signal.
HackerBox 0064: Scope
Did we do it before? I had the same feeling, but maybe I bought the kit on my own. Which Hackerbox was it?
Neon Ring Counter Heart
Too late now, but for future reference it's wise to always check your circuits on an independent power supply before plugging it into your computer just in case something is shorted. I believe that Macs have a protection circuit that kicks in when too much power is being drawn. I've seen it work on my Mac before. I guess it's not fool proof though. Sorry that you wrecked your expensive Mac.
MIDI Sonar "Theremin"
MIDI Drum Machine
Game & MINTIA
Mmmmmm! Asahi beer. My favorite!
Also you might what to include LCD LED > VCC in your connection summary. I know that you mentioned it elsewhere but people who are following the connection summary might not realize that the LED backlight needs to be connected to VCC. They will get a black screen and not understand what went wrong. New players (like me) are easily confused.
This is a great project! More people should be trying it out.
Great project! I'm making progress but I have some issues. I'm running Arduino IDE on my MacBook Pro, OS X Catalina v10.15.7. So far I have CHASE running on the LCD but no sound. I think there may be some errors in your connection summary. Would you please check? I think maybe the I2S amplifier module connections are incorrect. There are no pins on the amplifier module labeled "WCLK" or "DOUT" so I don't know where to connect the ESP2 GPIO pins. Also I think that maybe the GPIO connections are wrong? Right now all I get is noise. Would you please clarify? Thank you very much!
The I2S Amplifier module that I'm using is exactly the same as the one you have used. It has pinouts named: "VIN," "GND," "SD," "GAIN," "DIN," "BCLK," and "LRC." There is no "WCLC" or "DOUT" as you have listed in the connection summary. Also your connection summary lists the wrong ESP32 connections. They should be BCLK > GPIO 22, LRC > GPIO 21, DIN > GPIO 19. After I figured that out everything worked wonderfully well. Maybe you should take a look at your summary list and correct it so that others are not confused. Otherwise, This is a very excellent project. Congratulation on winning the competition!
It works! So far I've only tried the CHASE game and it works wonderfully! I Have a few hints for others who are working on this project. The connection summary has errors. You need to connect the LCD LED pin to VCC or the display will not be visible (because the background LED will be off). There are major errors for the Amplifier module connections and it won't work as currently presented. These are the correct connections: BCLK > GPIO 22. LRC > GPIO 22. DIN > GPIO 19. I haven't figured out how to load games using the ESP32 file system uploader on my Mac yet. The instructions are unclear or incomplete. Using an SD card works fine though.
Yes thanks! That helps a lot. I think I probably have some LDR's in my parts box that are in that range. As for the PCB I think I'll stick with the old version (which I already have) and wait until you've got the newer one checked out. I can always upgrade later.
I think I'll submit an order to JLCPCB for the revised PCB version with the individual tuning pots. Maybe I'm overlooking where you mentioned it, but what is the resistance range of the trimmer pots that you are using for the new version? Also I don't see any details regarding the two LDR's. Do you remember what the resistance range and size is for the particular LDR's that you used? Maybe you have a link to the exact ones you used? Thanks for your help!
Yes. I got sound and video working using QuickTime Player on my MacBookPro (10.15 Catalina OS). Steps: 1. File > New Movie Recording. 2. The screen window should show up. There will be a red record button at the bottom center. adjacent right to that will be a tiny down arrow. Click on that. 3. Select AV to USB.2 for video setting. Select USB.2Mic for audio setting. Select High for quality setting. It may be a little glitchy and require a few tries but that's what works for me. I hope it works for you. Cheers!
I got it to work with QuickTime. So it's all good now.
That's great that you got it running on your MacBook Pro! I'm still struggling with mine. The USB/AV capture device just doesn't seem to do the trick. I've tried VLC, FaceTime and Photo Booth running the Frogger Demo 30 . I briefly get a proper opening screen image with each reset but it shortly becomes scrambled and there is no audio at all. Weird. I don't think that it's a problem with the PropKit hardware or the example code because everything runs beautifully on the one TV in my house that still accepts AV inputs. So maybe it's a particular setting on my computer? Or I need some other application to run video? What application are you using to capture the video image and audio? By the way it doesn't seem much like the Frogger Arcade game that I remember as a kid. I'm missing that 8-bi…
That's great that you got it running on your MacBook Pro! I'm still struggling with mine. The USB/AV capture device just doesn't seem to do the trick. I've tried VLC, FaceTime and Photo Booth running the Frogger Demo 30 . I briefly get a proper opening screen image with each reset but it shortly becomes scrambled and there is no audio at all. Weird. I don't think that it's a problem with the PropKit hardware or the example code because everything runs beautifully on the one TV in my house that still accepts AV inputs. So maybe it's a particular setting on my computer? Or I need some other application to run video? What application are you using to capture the video image and audio? By the way it doesn't seem much like the Frogger Arcade game that I remember as a kid. I'm missing that 8-bit music vibe and it seems to be running a lot faster then I remember. I get squashed pretty much instantly.
Never mind. I got it to work with QuickTime.
I'm having the same sort of issue with my MacBook Pro. The USB/AV capture device just doesn't seem to do the trick. I've tried VLC, FaceTime and Photo Booth running the Frogger Demo 30 . I briefly give a proper opening screen image which shortly becomes scrambled and no audio at all. Weird. I don't think that it's a problem with the Prop Kit hardware or the code because everything runs beautifully on the one TV in my house that still accepts AV inputs. So maybe it's a setting on my computer? Or I need some other application to run video? Or the USB/AV capture device isn't functioning properly on my Mac? Who knows? Any ideas anyone?
This sounds like a fantastic project! I plan on building it. Thanks for taking the time to make a very detailed tutorial!. I have a suggestion though. Why do you have the drill file separate from the Gerber files? When I submitted the Gerber's to JLCPCB they rejected it because the drill file weren't included. I came to realize that I have to take the drill file out of the drill file folder and include it with the Gerber files. Those of us who haven't had a lot of experience with PCB fabrication are not aware of these things and I'm sure it's very confusing to a lot of beginners. Why not have a complete and consolidated set of compressed files that are good to go that newbies like myself can simply drop into the JLCPCB order page? Or maybe I'm doing this wrong?
I see what happened. My computer automatically unzipped your Github files. So I saw the one called GerberFiles and I sent it to JLCPCB not realizing that it didn't include the drill files. So now I know what I should be doing. I need to send the whole package to JLCPCB and they will sort it all out. Same thing happened with your DS8 drum synth project which I plan on building as well. Thanks again! Cheers!
TFT module not working? Try these: 1. Make sure you added the adafruit_st7789 file into your library folder on the Circuit Playground drive. The TFT will not run without the ST7789 driver installed. 2. Make certain that there is continuity between the CPX boad and the header pins on the ghost board. The nuts and bolts between the two boards are not perfect fits and I found that my module did not run because on of the bolted connections wasn't good. 3. Double/triple/quadruple check your wiring. I hope this help someone.
I get the glitches too. Seems to happen across the spectrum form low to high. They aren't bad. Fairly minimal considering the resolution but I wonder why it isn't more stable.
A very well presented and fun project! I think that I will build it. Just one thing, I've looked carefully but I don't see the link to your Google Drive where you keep all the special files for the PCB board. Either I'm going blind or you missed adding the link.
Drum Synth (DS-8) With PS2 Drum Pad
Arduino Laser Show With Real Galvos
Keep at it. It seems a bit fidgety. I just kept redoing different things until it finally came to life. Check the FFC cable to make sure it's positioned and seated correctly. Make sure the wiring is actually connected to the right pins (they are labeled differently on either side, so that tripped me up). It will work.
HackerBox 0036: JumboTron
An important message.....
Yes, the laser flashes a red laser line across the image being scanned. It's very conspicuous and if you don't see it then something is wrong. I had the same problem but I found out that the pinouts on the ZIF connector are very confusing. They are labeled differently on either side of the board. See my comment above. Once I got it hooked up correctly then it worked. The other thing is you have to type something into the serial monitor and send it to get the scanner to start a scan.
HackerBox 0058: Encode
I finally got the barcode scanner to work. It seems that the pins on one side my flex cable breakout module are labeled incorrectly. The pinouts as labeled on the ZIF connector side of the board are correct. The pinouts as labeled on the other side of the board are different and do not work if followed.
Day two. All systems go! PM2.5 has fallen today. Less smoke in the air this morning. But P10 values given by this module are still incorrect.
Simple Air Pollution Monitor Using an Arduino Uno and SDS011
Great tutorial and very timely! I happened to have an SDS011 module sitting around which I had planned on experimenting with some day. Well, with all the fires in California, today is the day. I'm located in Coastal Humboldt County California. Smoke has been blowing in for days from all of the surrounding massive wildfires. As of 3PM today the PM2.5 is reading up in the 350 range which correlates well with other official and citizen scientist data from around here. Don't know what up with the PM10 reading. Seems way off.
I love it! I plan on putting it up in the back window of my car instead of a bumper sticker. I'll just have it running while I drive. That way maybe people will be less likely to vandalize my car when I'm not around.
I found that the USBasp programmer wiring differed from the diagram provided in the Instructable. I switched SCK and MISO and I moved the GND. See diagram. That worked for me.
Super Easy Raised Garden Bed
See-Through Arduino UNO
Nice tutorial! I've got my order up on AliExpress for the Red Green bar graph and for a RYGB one too! I'll use your code as a spring board to figure out how to apply the RYGB unit. Thanks for the great idea?
Shield for Arduino From Old Russian VFD Tubes: Clock, Thermometer, Volt Meter...
You need to solder the header pins onto the GY-33.
Happy Easter All!
Temp-ThinSpeak.ino code link is broken. Does not link to code.
HackerBox 0053: Chromalux
Creating Easy Glass Circuit Boards at Home
HackerBox 0051: MCU Lab
FX2LP CY7C68013A USB Dev Board (Logic Analyzer)
So far so good. The OSX version of PulseView seems to be working well on my MacBook. It recognized my Dev Board immediately and the demo sketch for the arduino is chooching away making sweet traces as it counts. Now it's time to dive in and figure out what this thing can really do. Thanks HackerBoxes and thanks wh_hsn! Great tutorial!
Yes, you really should.
These are fantastic! Here's what they have going for them: 1. They're made from scratch. 2. They are relatively easy to make. A gratifying project for the novice baker. 3. They taste wonderful!
A successful family project. Fresh out of the oven and ready for our tummies.
Chocolate Banana Muffins
I'm nearly ready to solder the ESP-32 module onto the board. I have a hot air reworking station and soldering iron. What would you recommend for the thermal pad on the underside of the module? Ignore it? Try to solder it from the underside of the PCB with a soldering iron? Use the hot air gun and solder paste (might overheat the module) or maybe use thermal paste instead of solder. Not sure how to proceed. How did you do it?
I did the same thing. I followed the pattern on the underside of the PCB which it turns out is the exact opposite of the way the transistors need to be oriented. Unsoldering 9 transistor leads is such a joy! I had sacrifice the transistors and snip off all the leads to get them unsoldered. Fortunately I had several more transistors in stock for replacemnt. So, the correct orientation is to have the flat side of the transistor facing the PCB so that it lays completely flat when bent down toward the board. Now the flashy thingy works fine.
I sounds like you are starting out at ground level. Where are you getting stuck? Soldering? Identifying the parts? The kits are very simple and are good for beginners. I'd be happy to help but I don't know where you are getting stuck. Also, there is just tons of information available on the internet. Really just dive right in and hope for the best. You may be surprised when it all comes together and works!
I had a similar problem. I pulled out the multimeter and found that the voltage regulator wasn't working. There was no voltage going to the ESP or the OLED. I happened to have another similar 3.3V regulator in my junk box so I swapped it in. Everything worked fine after that.
Thanks to TimGTech for helping to show the way!
Thanks for making this more simple and showing the way. Playing around with images and text now.
Got it! You were right, I didn't follow your instructions carefully at first. It took me a while to figure out exactly what, where and how to cut and paste your bitmap example into, but I persisted and ultimately I prevailed! Thanks for the tutorial. Now I need to give the image converter program a try!
It seems that the sources on Amazon are fleeting. Using the information that HB gave me, I was able to select appropriate 18650 cells, they took several weeks to arrive but they are working great. The seller is already gone or else I'd provide a link. I was lucky I guess. I didn't go for the cheapest. The cheaper they are the more likely they are to be junk/counterfeit.
I tried your code but I get an error message saying that the sketch is too big.
Success! Here is how I got the final fuse burning step to work on my MacBook Pro:The terminal commands that HB suggested did not work on my computer: "avrdude -c arduino -p attiny85 -U lfuse:w:0xe2:m -U hfuse:w:0x5f:m -U efuse:w:0xff:m”My Mac terminal did not know where to find the avrdude application and it obstinately failed to recognize the avrdude command.The avrdude application was supposed to be located in “/usr/local/bin” and the config file in “etc.” But Arduino does not install the files on my computer where they need to be to work with the terminal. Avrdude is placed in completely different directories. I couldn’t figure out how to direct it to where Arduino had them located.So…I installed avrdude using instructions from this site: http://macappstore.org/avrdude/That was a …
Success! Here is how I got the final fuse burning step to work on my MacBook Pro:The terminal commands that HB suggested did not work on my computer: "avrdude -c arduino -p attiny85 -U lfuse:w:0xe2:m -U hfuse:w:0x5f:m -U efuse:w:0xff:m”My Mac terminal did not know where to find the avrdude application and it obstinately failed to recognize the avrdude command.The avrdude application was supposed to be located in “/usr/local/bin” and the config file in “etc.” But Arduino does not install the files on my computer where they need to be to work with the terminal. Avrdude is placed in completely different directories. I couldn’t figure out how to direct it to where Arduino had them located.So…I installed avrdude using instructions from this site: http://macappstore.org/avrdude/That was a little scary because for all I knew I was installing malware into my root directories. But I backed up my computer and gave it a shot. It worked and the files were where they needed to be. Now the terminal recognized the avrdude command. But running the commands to set the fuses resulted in an error: “ser_open(): can't open device "unknown": No such file or directory”So I added a specific command showing the serial port that arduino was using: “-P /dev/cu.Bluetooth-Incoming-Port”That worked but the then it couldn’t find my specific programmer: “avrdude: stk500_recv(): programmer is not responding”So I gave it the name of the programmer I was using: “-c USBasp”And that worked! The final successful terminal commands that I used for my MacBook Pro were: avrdude -c USBasp -P /dev/cu.Bluetooth-Incoming-Port -p attiny85 -U lfuse:w:0xe2:m -U hfuse:w:0x5f:m -U efuse:w:0xff:mI have no idea how I figured all that out but I guess three years of struggling my way through HackerBoxes has warped my brain. Maybe this will help someone else out.
Same here. Whenever I search for 18650 Lithiums batteries there seems to be a multitude of sizes, voltages and AmpHours listed. I can be very uncertain. So, I've ordered some "18650's" from Amazon. They should be coming soon. If they fit then I'll post the link.