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Awesome! You can link here, there's more content on instructables than there is on my homepage at the moment.
I just updated the code on github once again - I added support for the real time clock and three buttons so it can tell time for real now. You can see the pins I used in the code, or later I will update the instructions here. Cheers!
This is amazing, so glad you made it!
Hey good catch, I did not even see that! You're right, it was an off-by-one thing. I will update the code on github, or you can make the change in the screenshot I attached. Move line 862 down about 6 lines to below the if statements in the tick function and it should do the trick!
It's worth a try, but my one concern on that is that the extra light coming out the sides would illuminate the neighboring fibers. The end glow fibers do really well in this respect, there is practically no light bleed from one to another.
Ah, the answer is: a little bit of light comes out of the sides of the fibers... but it is only a fraction of what is coming out the ends. The entire fiber does light up causing the cool effect, but I would say it's only about 20% as bright or less than the ends. I found this very difficult to take photos of, if you look straight on to the fiber ends they are very intense, so between the different images my settings are all over the place depending on the viewing angle.
It's not reversed, but also not exactly the same. I made adjustments in the code to account for this.
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If I remember right, I just limited the maximums on the transmitter for the speed. I threw away the brakes since they just seemed like a waste of electricity, but you're right, the sabertooth can do it for you.
Wow, that is a really well thought out looking build, great job! I was considering the Pixhawk for an autonomous version. Google "ardumower", that project also looks promising.
I haven't had any trouble with this so far. It's not super clear in the diagram above, but I didn't ground the coil inside of the control box near the rest of the electronics - the connection point to ground is right at the coil using the original wires from the mower, so current path is from the coil, in through the relay contacts (isolated from the rest of the board) and back out to the mower ground. I believe this is what prevents the current spikes while the mower is spinning but the coil is grounded from damaging the rest of the goodies.
Cool! I haven't tried what you're suggesting, but I'm sure it's possible. The first idea that comes to mind is to write a third function for what you want to happen when both are pressed - then inside of the function for button 1 you check button 2 - if it's pressed go do the third thing, if not do the normal button 1 thing. Do the same in the function for button 2. Timing may be a challenge, so you may need to introduce a small delay before checking the second button in case you don't push them exactly at the same moment.
The font I used is called "Neo Sans", but I converted the letters to paths and edited each one that has a floating part to be more like a stencil. You can see this in the A, B, D, O, P, Q, R.Paint is just spray paint, nothing special. Probably Rustoleum or Krylon - whatever home depot carries. I'd love to see photos of what you come up with, good luck!
I haven't had any trouble with noise, but I haven't put the scope on it to see what it looks like either. I had the same concern running wires from the ignition coil like antennas in close proximity to the controller and arduino. I did consider putting the ignition relay outside of the control box closer to the coil to reduce it, but it hasn't been a problem yet.Do the motors move too fast? Yes! They are far more powerful than they feel if you've ever ridden in the wheelchair you get them from. What we did is reduce the maximum "throttle" percent in the RC controller. We set the maximum for the right/left channel down to 50% or less, and reverse lower than that. This reduces the responsiveness and makes it far easier to move slowly and go straight.
Good question - I didn't consider electric mainly because I have never used one, so I'm not familiar with their run time and power. It would make things a lot simpler electrically and mechanically other than the fact that they seem to be 100% plastic which could make it difficult to attach things (I would try to only build mounts for the motors and skip the frame since we don't need extra batteries). I also wonder how much the mowing time would be reduced if we steal power for the wheels, probably not that much. Never know 'till you try, but I think it's a good idea!
You're absolutely right, and in fact that is what I did - I just wrote it down wrong! I have corrected this and added a photo, thank you!
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If you're using a Digispark board, try the following:In the top menu try going to tools -> Board: -> Boards ManagerWhen I type "Digistump" in the search box I get a result for "Digistump AVR Boards" which I have installed.If you don't get that result, try going to File -> PreferencesIn the "Additional Boards Manager URLs" box put this in there:http://digistump.com/package_digistump_index.jsonIf you already have something in the box, you can leave it and just separate with a comma.Try going back to the boards manager and see if the Digistump boards show up to be installed, install them if they do, then you can choose the proper board from the dropdown.As for the library, I don't see it in my "manage libraries" menu, so it may be included in …
If you're using a Digispark board, try the following:In the top menu try going to tools -> Board: -> Boards ManagerWhen I type "Digistump" in the search box I get a result for "Digistump AVR Boards" which I have installed.If you don't get that result, try going to File -> PreferencesIn the "Additional Boards Manager URLs" box put this in there:http://digistump.com/package_digistump_index.jsonIf you already have something in the box, you can leave it and just separate with a comma.Try going back to the boards manager and see if the Digistump boards show up to be installed, install them if they do, then you can choose the proper board from the dropdown.As for the library, I don't see it in my "manage libraries" menu, so it may be included in the install for those boards. If not, you should be able to get it here:https://github.com/digistump/DigisparkArduinoInteg...Hope that helps!
It is .ino. I'd recommend opening a new sketch in the Arduino IDE and just pasting this in there (don't forget to install the libraries as well), then it will automatically save the right kind of file for you.
Indeed we can have a second button for the camera, I just made one up and added it as the last step above!
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OK, I made up a couple sets of parts, they're available here if you're up for it:https://www.etsy.com/listing/783091345/word-clock-...
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