emdee401

Great Job! I love the extra color pallets you added and the remove, great idea!Would love to take a look at your code if you;re willing to let me...you can email me if you like.Once thing you can add... I see you also used the see trough plexiglass in the middle to connect the left and right base....I actually put another pixelled inside of it and connected it to the ledstrip of the logo....

Correct, That is also a note in the latest assembly document

Hi,I can think of seveal things that you should check:- Voltage in on the pcb may not exceed 5.1V....make sure it is between 4.5 and 5.1, at 5.2V the arduino will freeze up sue to an onboard power monitor chip. - You can use UDB only to use the serial monitor and test modes...the brightness is dimmed in the software...it will not consume a lot of amps....I can run mine on usb only. - Check to see that you connect CN1 and CN2 correctly, the CN1 is mounted on the bottom side of the pcb. If you wired it as if it would be on top of the pcb, alle connectings will be mirrored. This will result in Peakhold time funtion will increase CCW and decrease CW and brightness will act as a mode button and the sensitivity will act as reset, THis would explain that the system resets when you turn the potme…

Hi,I can think of seveal things that you should check:- Voltage in on the pcb may not exceed 5.1V....make sure it is between 4.5 and 5.1, at 5.2V the arduino will freeze up sue to an onboard power monitor chip. - You can use UDB only to use the serial monitor and test modes...the brightness is dimmed in the software...it will not consume a lot of amps....I can run mine on usb only. - Check to see that you connect CN1 and CN2 correctly, the CN1 is mounted on the bottom side of the pcb. If you wired it as if it would be on top of the pcb, alle connectings will be mirrored. This will result in Peakhold time funtion will increase CCW and decrease CW and brightness will act as a mode button and the sensitivity will act as reset, THis would explain that the system resets when you turn the potmeter.

Fit on esp32 can work but it is also tricky....it will not be as smooth as the analog version and it will response different....I am working on a version like that and it is simply not as good looking to the eye as the analog version

Are you sure that the potmeters are connecties correctly sounds like you stopped two pins. You can disconnect power supply and run over usb for debugging. Just use middle brightness. LEDs freezing happens when the power supply goes up to 5.2V make sure it’s below 5. If you need help, contact me directly on Whatsapp or email... always willing to assist.

Yes it does! When looking at the led strips, there are little arrows to indicate a direction or it has a print Do. Di...... in side is input other side is output.Also if You swop left to right you’ll need to adjust the firmware of the high frequency band will be on the left side and the low on the right ;-)

Best, check your voltage.If everything is working as expected when using the USB as power supply then there are only two options:1.The voltage of the power supply is not 5V but maybe 5.5 or 4.5. The arduino has an onboard voltage detector that puts it in reset mode if the power is not right.2. check that all main components get power .....maybe there is one that has no power ( although not likely) I feed my ledstrip directly from 5V power supply so I only used the led dataline from that connector.IF the problem is with 1. ....a to high power you can overcome using a universal diode that you put in series ...it will give you a voltage drop of about 0.5VIf you can't put your finger on it...contact me directly. I'm always willing to help. facebook or email is finemark.donners@judoles.nlhttp…

Best, check your voltage.If everything is working as expected when using the USB as power supply then there are only two options:1.The voltage of the power supply is not 5V but maybe 5.5 or 4.5. The arduino has an onboard voltage detector that puts it in reset mode if the power is not right.2. check that all main components get power .....maybe there is one that has no power ( although not likely) I feed my ledstrip directly from 5V power supply so I only used the led dataline from that connector.IF the problem is with 1. ....a to high power you can overcome using a universal diode that you put in series ...it will give you a voltage drop of about 0.5VIf you can't put your finger on it...contact me directly. I'm always willing to help. facebook or email is finemark.donners@judoles.nlhttps://www.facebook.com/mark.donners.5

Your Welcome.....I entered the microcontroller context, but might take a day or two before it shows up.....Feel free to vote lol

Actually, I checked..its there:http://www.judoles.nl/Projecten/14channelSA/Fullsc...

NO, Both are the same; The one on Tindie is from the schematic you mention. There are no inconsistency. At least not to my knowledge. I first drew this schematic, made a pcb from it..and posted it on instructables and tindie... so...You mentioned that pcb has only one LM358 while the schematic has two?? You better look at the datasheet of this component. The LM358 is a DUAL opamp.. this means that there are two inside one package....that explains why you only see one lm358 in the PCB and two in the schematic

O but it is... both are used to read the outputs of the MSG Ic's

There are two schematics, not sure if both are mentioned in the instructable, but if not then you can find it under the youtube video for sure. ( I will check this and update the instructables..) There is a simple schematic that shows only the arduino, freq board, msg's and led strips..this is a working schematic but it is not from the PCB. The pcb schematic is bigger...more details and it includes a pre-amplifier.

No Idea about the current, it is actually the in-rush current that is important. I used this balast: TRIDONIC EC30 C502K al it says is the nominal current of max 0,4A and a labda of 0,32. No inductivity is mentioned. Maybe you can google it. I dont have a LCR meter to measure it for you. A regards to the resisters: NO! thats not how this works. You can play around with R1 and R2 but thats about it.

Did you get it to work? I’ve got mail from more then 20 people building this unit with succes... Although This is not a project for beginners, with some basic knowledge of electronics, you should be able to get it going. Like I mentioned before, most problems are with the msqeq chips, many fakes available and you won’t know until you buy and try.I did offer to help you but you didn’t reply. I told you to send me photo’s of the PCB and I even offered to send the PCB to me for repair If we cannot see the problem by looking at the photo’s. It’s a shame If you don’t get it going after spending your time and money on this...let me help you

Hi,So sorry that this is frustrating you. Many people have build this unit succesfully. I did include instructions on how to go about when it is not working ( its in the video description). However, you will need an oscilloscope to pinpount the problem. You say rainbow is working so there must be a problem with the audio side. Try connecting the audio directly to the input of the MSG, using a capacitor. Look at schematic for details... that should work..if not , there is a bid change your MSG is fake

Hi,I made a list of possible failures...maybe this could help:Trouble shooting:First bar, first few leds flickering.....This is low frequency noise coming from the powersupply and it is amplified by the opamp. I Compensated a little for it in the software but depending on your Power supply, it might still be there. In my prototype it only happens when i use the mic input. the line in is working just fine. If you have trouble with this you can try changing opamp to a different type or change the power supply, or add a high pass filter , blocking the low noise but thats not easy since it is related to the net frequency of 50 / 60 hz. Compensate for it in software.If nothing is working or parts are not doing what you you expect, remember the system can be divided into function blocks that yo…

Hi,I made a list of possible failures...maybe this could help:Trouble shooting:First bar, first few leds flickering.....This is low frequency noise coming from the powersupply and it is amplified by the opamp. I Compensated a little for it in the software but depending on your Power supply, it might still be there. In my prototype it only happens when i use the mic input. the line in is working just fine. If you have trouble with this you can try changing opamp to a different type or change the power supply, or add a high pass filter , blocking the low noise but thats not easy since it is related to the net frequency of 50 / 60 hz. Compensate for it in software.If nothing is working or parts are not doing what you you expect, remember the system can be divided into function blocks that you can test one by one:1. check your power supply is is 5V?2. when you connect the input to ground so that it will not pickup noise, after 1 minute of so, the unit goes into rainbow mode. This is seen as a colorful set of bars changing colors. IF this is working then you know that the software is running and the driving of the leds works fine!3. no leds turn on ever! check your connections to the ledstrip. Is is wired correctly?4. When you remove the msgeq7 Ic's from their socket, you can apply a voltage to pin 3 of the socket, depending on this voltage( 0-3 V) , you should see 7 bars increasing in numbers of leds that turn on, related to the voltage. You can test this for both the MSGEQ7 Ic's. If the leds turn on then you problem is with the MSQEQ7 or the preamp. You can leavy out the preamp and connect your audio directly to the center pin of the jumper, bypassing the preamp... stil no succes?5. Did you hook up the potmeters on the J2 pcb? there is one important for a good function and that is the sensitivity potmeter.7. Is the frequency board working? You should see a clock signal on pin 8 of the MSGEQ7?6. Most likely, if everything checks out but it is still not working, the MSGEQ7 is the problem. There are many fakes out there, specially china import....dont trust the MSGEQ7 from Alieexpress. Even my local supplier get me non working ones.....in the end I ordered them at Mouser. Mouser sells directly from sparkfun who is the manufacturer these days...You can check the function of this IC. If is has a clock and an audio input and a strobe, you should see the output changing all the time. It kinda looks like stairs but the steps are always changing.

Hi Cyril,1. You are right....if you use full brightness and with all leds on...that might be a thing.. However, in the software I limited the max brightness so the current will be limited. A switch mode power supply that can handle 5A and maybe a highner piek current should workIts a pass trough...and yes i placed it inside the base. You can see it in the video2. the audo plug , i used tulp plugs ( standard audi plug) for the line in.3. microphone is a condense mic, basically , yes it is simular to arduino mic but without pcb...just the mic only

Yes, That order is in my car...will mail it tonight

Yes, your not the only one pointing that out to me..I need to update the partlist... Regarding Rv1 and Rv2 Actually, those are not so critical approx 100K for RV1 and500K for Rv2. Both are used to set the amplification of the opamps.... You canuse any value that is approx the same. As for D1 a universal diode like 1n4001 will do, however, you can leave it out entirely. I put it there as a quick and dirty way of protecting my semiconducters in case i accedently connect the power supply reversed. In my next revision, that will be changed to a proper protection circuit. Also C14 and C15 have no function as I forgot to take them out of the design....but with or without them the pcb will work

O but there is, look at the schematic for details...the pcb is dual layer... ;-)The lm358 is amplifier...indeed

https://www.instructables.com/How-to-make-a-Dreamcatcher-2/

No no, the one hand rule does apply. Because you can touch the output of the coil with one hand while the other hand is touching a ground like for example your heater or some metal pipe/rod... that wat it can run trough your heart. The danger of this circuit is that the output is directly connected to one wire of your outlet. In some countries the wiring is not set by law. Meaning fase and neural can be swopped.

Thank you

Thanks!

Try changing the potmeter that sets the amplification, maybe its set a bit to high..

I have the same.... it only happens with the mic and not with line in... it it caused by noice in the mic and opamp.... you could use a low pass filter of modify the software... i already compensated a little for it in the software

Please open the link to the google drive files..you'll find the more advanced schematic including the pcb

That is correct, The schematic shown here is simplified version and is not the same as the PCB. If you open the given download link to the google drive, you'll find the advanced schematic that is related to the pcb...

can you show me? There are only two amps in the schematic and both are integrated in a dual amp dil/dip Ic and some caps are on the bottom side of the pcb

Thank you!