emdee401

Send me a copy of your sketch folder with all files and i will run it on my hardware

If only the red dont work but other color do, then 2 things to check: what leds are you using? And did you configure the driver correctly.

Hi, it might me be a conflict with one of the lib version...try the web programmer.I just programmed my esp with the webprogrammer ( link is in instructable) and after that, i uploaded the V1.1 with arduino ( after compiling) here all is working fine...sd and audio

Yeah the problem is the array ssid[20] and password[20] increase it to 25 and your network issue is fixed. Will update that in the release this week

Yes 64*32 will work but the alignment will be off completely. You will see something but you have to change the x y parameters in the setup loop of settings tab

Not even a logo on boot? Can you try another display panel?

I see...the display problem could be related to the chipset, 1/8 scan panels are not supported without extra effort. However, It's more likely that it is a lib error. If you use a newer version for the display lib, it will not work. Check my doc to see what versions I used...You can also try using the web flasher...it uses my pre-compiled version using my libs. See if that works.REgarding the password WIFI I'd have to look into that...not sure spaces are allowed but that will be a error that can be fixed..lets deal with the issue's one at a time. Please report this issue at github and I'll address it. That way others can learn from it too.

Aliexpress

Absolutely true. A light sensor in on my list for the next update

Hi, I payed around €150 for purchasing the acrylic locally. Payed consulting? maybe depends on the workload. Send me an email mark.donners@judoles.nl

I used a laser engraver at my workplace. Without that, It's gone be hard....You got a point regarding the LIPO cells. However, the load is minimum as the leds draw a very low current. I don't expect any problems for now but I'll make sure to remember your advice when they fail.

Good Catch!!! indeed, there was a drawing error in the schematic. The button should be connected to GPIO15 ( its corrected now) Thanks for the feedback.

Ill take a look at that later but i already see something i like: ur using the esp32 with onboard lcd

Yes you can adjust the number of leds to your liking minimum of say 5 per band. The number of bands is fixed. If you want more control over the number of bands please take a look at my other post of the fft analyzer. Regarding the mic , its not build in but it has pre amp. All you need to do is connect a microphone to make it work. Its all described in the documentation on github

Cool!

Offcourse it is not found in library, it is not a library file. it is an actual file in your workfolder, it should be in the same folder as your sketch, together with some more .h files

Looks like the VU level meter.If you cut the ledstrip and line them up as matrix...the top horizontal line of leds is used as u volume meter. It will display the level of volume from the center of the matrix to the left and the right. I wouldn't worry about it...we can disable it in the sketch if you dont like it....but it might look better intact....my suggestion is to cut the ledstrip, make your setup ...and decide later if you want to remove it.

Is that the top line? Looks like the vu meter…. Can you show foto?

So usb is working fine but power supply is not. Then the problem is the power supply. It is critical. Has to be stable and no more then 5.1v. Try another type / brand and see if that helps.

MEga2560 datacable is a USB cable. You need that to upload the arduino sketch. The power supply needs to be able to handle the led currents 4A will do but if you wnat more brightness of the leds, than you have to use 8A.You can send me an email. Mark.donners@judoles.nl

The diagram you are refering to is there to give an impression. Take a look at the latest documentation and you will find a more detailed diagram

1’ the input sensitivity can be adjusted with the onboard potmeters2. This is due to the screensaver and can be disabled in the code

Its so sad to see how some people blame others for their own failure and lack of knowledge. Many have replicated this build succesfully.

Hello, First of all, let me start by saying that asking questions on every single platform you can find isn't the way to go. ...You've ask me questions on Email, youtube and now instructables. Don't get me wrong, I don't mind answering questions but I can't help noticing that you are enoyed that you can't make it work. Remember, This is not a beginners project, although the manual ( if you read it) will show you all you need to know. Instead you keep refering to old documents. As I told you by email, the latest document and software is available at my github. Also, I can't help getting the impression that you are not using the hardware I designed and sell in my tindie store, so I gues you made your own configuration? Please take a moment to study that! Regarding your questions, I will an…

Hello, First of all, let me start by saying that asking questions on every single platform you can find isn't the way to go. ...You've ask me questions on Email, youtube and now instructables. Don't get me wrong, I don't mind answering questions but I can't help noticing that you are enoyed that you can't make it work. Remember, This is not a beginners project, although the manual ( if you read it) will show you all you need to know. Instead you keep refering to old documents. As I told you by email, the latest document and software is available at my github. Also, I can't help getting the impression that you are not using the hardware I designed and sell in my tindie store, so I gues you made your own configuration? Please take a moment to study that! Regarding your questions, I will answer them, no problem.1- I checked the supply voltage and it's 5V. - Good see the manual on how critital this is, higher then approx 5.2V will freeze up your arduino and it will not work!2- I tested that the si5351 board is solid.- How did you test, you keep sending screen dump of the serial terminal that I don't recognize....So you using a sketch that you changed of a sketch that I didn't write. So I can't help you with that.3- I tested that the MSGEQ7 chips are solid.How did you test? please specify. You can also test them by not using the frequency board and connecting a RC combination to the clock pin. See datasheet.4- I tested the LM358 chip is solid.you can bypass it completly.5- I bypassed the preamp and connected the input directly to the center pin. There was no change.ok, so the preamp is not the problem6- The potentiometers and buttons on the front panel work properly.good7- When I connect the input to ground it doesn't go into rainbow mode.IF you read the latest manual you'll know that the rainbow is no longer available in version 3.0, it has been replaced by the fire mode.8- The LEDs are always working in fire mode.good that means the arduino is working and the leds are working!9- These are the values on the serial monitor: )⸮⸮⸮Y⸮E⸮These I can not identify, In my setup, there is always clear readable feedback. Did you set the baudrate in the terminal correcly? it shouls be 115200. Also check your connections, check the pins on the arduino. Are you sure you didn't short out any?10 - I ran "si5351.ino" from the sample codes to test the si5351 board. These are the values on the serial monitor:Si5351 Clockgen TestThis is not my code, cant help you with this! although remember that your arduino is running on like 16Mhz tops...so it is nearly impossible to measyre a frequencty of 112.5Mhz..so how did you check it is working? all the serial monitor says is that you set it to that frequency but how do you know it is actually working?12:29:17.052 -> 12:29:17.052 -> OK!12:29:17.052 -> Set PLLA to 900MHz12:29:17.086 -> Set Output #0 to 112.5MHz12:29:17.120 -> Set Output #1 to 13.553115MHz12:29:17.154 -> Set Output #2 to 10.706 KHzFinally, and this is important!! use the diagnostig mode in sketsch version 3.0 as it has everything to test your hardware, including the frequency board. It will give you all the feedback you need on the serial monitor. See the manual for details.This is all the help I can give you for now. When you complete the diagnostics mode in my firmware 3.0, you can always send me the data from that to take a look...However, 9 out of 10 times the problem really is the MSGEQ7, many fake Ic's going around!.

Correct, That is also a note in the latest assembly document

Great Job! I love the extra color pallets you added and the remove, great idea!Would love to take a look at your code if you;re willing to let me...you can email me if you like.Once thing you can add... I see you also used the see trough plexiglass in the middle to connect the left and right base....I actually put another pixelled inside of it and connected it to the ledstrip of the logo....

Hi,I can think of seveal things that you should check:- Voltage in on the pcb may not exceed 5.1V....make sure it is between 4.5 and 5.1, at 5.2V the arduino will freeze up sue to an onboard power monitor chip. - You can use UDB only to use the serial monitor and test modes...the brightness is dimmed in the software...it will not consume a lot of amps....I can run mine on usb only. - Check to see that you connect CN1 and CN2 correctly, the CN1 is mounted on the bottom side of the pcb. If you wired it as if it would be on top of the pcb, alle connectings will be mirrored. This will result in Peakhold time funtion will increase CCW and decrease CW and brightness will act as a mode button and the sensitivity will act as reset, THis would explain that the system resets when you turn the potme…

Hi,I can think of seveal things that you should check:- Voltage in on the pcb may not exceed 5.1V....make sure it is between 4.5 and 5.1, at 5.2V the arduino will freeze up sue to an onboard power monitor chip. - You can use UDB only to use the serial monitor and test modes...the brightness is dimmed in the software...it will not consume a lot of amps....I can run mine on usb only. - Check to see that you connect CN1 and CN2 correctly, the CN1 is mounted on the bottom side of the pcb. If you wired it as if it would be on top of the pcb, alle connectings will be mirrored. This will result in Peakhold time funtion will increase CCW and decrease CW and brightness will act as a mode button and the sensitivity will act as reset, THis would explain that the system resets when you turn the potmeter.

Are you sure that the potmeters are connecties correctly sounds like you stopped two pins. You can disconnect power supply and run over usb for debugging. Just use middle brightness. LEDs freezing happens when the power supply goes up to 5.2V make sure it’s below 5. If you need help, contact me directly on Whatsapp or email... always willing to assist.

Fit on esp32 can work but it is also tricky....it will not be as smooth as the analog version and it will response different....I am working on a version like that and it is simply not as good looking to the eye as the analog version

Yes it does! When looking at the led strips, there are little arrows to indicate a direction or it has a print Do. Di...... in side is input other side is output.Also if You swop left to right you’ll need to adjust the firmware of the high frequency band will be on the left side and the low on the right ;-)

Best, check your voltage.If everything is working as expected when using the USB as power supply then there are only two options:1.The voltage of the power supply is not 5V but maybe 5.5 or 4.5. The arduino has an onboard voltage detector that puts it in reset mode if the power is not right.2. check that all main components get power .....maybe there is one that has no power ( although not likely) I feed my ledstrip directly from 5V power supply so I only used the led dataline from that connector.IF the problem is with 1. ....a to high power you can overcome using a universal diode that you put in series ...it will give you a voltage drop of about 0.5VIf you can't put your finger on it...contact me directly. I'm always willing to help. facebook or email is finemark.donners@judoles.nlhttp…

Best, check your voltage.If everything is working as expected when using the USB as power supply then there are only two options:1.The voltage of the power supply is not 5V but maybe 5.5 or 4.5. The arduino has an onboard voltage detector that puts it in reset mode if the power is not right.2. check that all main components get power .....maybe there is one that has no power ( although not likely) I feed my ledstrip directly from 5V power supply so I only used the led dataline from that connector.IF the problem is with 1. ....a to high power you can overcome using a universal diode that you put in series ...it will give you a voltage drop of about 0.5VIf you can't put your finger on it...contact me directly. I'm always willing to help. facebook or email is finemark.donners@judoles.nlhttps://www.facebook.com/mark.donners.5

Your Welcome.....I entered the microcontroller context, but might take a day or two before it shows up.....Feel free to vote lol

NO, Both are the same; The one on Tindie is from the schematic you mention. There are no inconsistency. At least not to my knowledge. I first drew this schematic, made a pcb from it..and posted it on instructables and tindie... so...You mentioned that pcb has only one LM358 while the schematic has two?? You better look at the datasheet of this component. The LM358 is a DUAL opamp.. this means that there are two inside one package....that explains why you only see one lm358 in the PCB and two in the schematic

Actually, I checked..its there:http://www.judoles.nl/Projecten/14channelSA/Fullsc...

There are two schematics, not sure if both are mentioned in the instructable, but if not then you can find it under the youtube video for sure. ( I will check this and update the instructables..) There is a simple schematic that shows only the arduino, freq board, msg's and led strips..this is a working schematic but it is not from the PCB. The pcb schematic is bigger...more details and it includes a pre-amplifier.

NO, Both are the same; The one on Tindie is from the schematic you mention. There are no inconsistency. At least not to my knowledge. I first drew this schematic, made a pcb from it..and posted it on instructables and tindie... so...You mentioned that pcb has only one LM358 while the schematic has two?? You better look at the datasheet of this component. The LM358 is a DUAL opamp.. this means that there are two inside one package....that explains why you only see one lm358 in the PCB and two in the schematic

No Idea about the current, it is actually the in-rush current that is important. I used this balast: TRIDONIC EC30 C502K al it says is the nominal current of max 0,4A and a labda of 0,32. No inductivity is mentioned. Maybe you can google it. I dont have a LCR meter to measure it for you. A regards to the resisters: NO! thats not how this works. You can play around with R1 and R2 but thats about it.

Did you get it to work? I’ve got mail from more then 20 people building this unit with succes... Although This is not a project for beginners, with some basic knowledge of electronics, you should be able to get it going. Like I mentioned before, most problems are with the msqeq chips, many fakes available and you won’t know until you buy and try.I did offer to help you but you didn’t reply. I told you to send me photo’s of the PCB and I even offered to send the PCB to me for repair If we cannot see the problem by looking at the photo’s. It’s a shame If you don’t get it going after spending your time and money on this...let me help you

Hi,So sorry that this is frustrating you. Many people have build this unit succesfully. I did include instructions on how to go about when it is not working ( its in the video description). However, you will need an oscilloscope to pinpount the problem. You say rainbow is working so there must be a problem with the audio side. Try connecting the audio directly to the input of the MSG, using a capacitor. Look at schematic for details... that should work..if not , there is a bid change your MSG is fake

Hi,I made a list of possible failures...maybe this could help:Trouble shooting:First bar, first few leds flickering.....This is low frequency noise coming from the powersupply and it is amplified by the opamp. I Compensated a little for it in the software but depending on your Power supply, it might still be there. In my prototype it only happens when i use the mic input. the line in is working just fine. If you have trouble with this you can try changing opamp to a different type or change the power supply, or add a high pass filter , blocking the low noise but thats not easy since it is related to the net frequency of 50 / 60 hz. Compensate for it in software.If nothing is working or parts are not doing what you you expect, remember the system can be divided into function blocks that yo…

Hi,I made a list of possible failures...maybe this could help:Trouble shooting:First bar, first few leds flickering.....This is low frequency noise coming from the powersupply and it is amplified by the opamp. I Compensated a little for it in the software but depending on your Power supply, it might still be there. In my prototype it only happens when i use the mic input. the line in is working just fine. If you have trouble with this you can try changing opamp to a different type or change the power supply, or add a high pass filter , blocking the low noise but thats not easy since it is related to the net frequency of 50 / 60 hz. Compensate for it in software.If nothing is working or parts are not doing what you you expect, remember the system can be divided into function blocks that you can test one by one:1. check your power supply is is 5V?2. when you connect the input to ground so that it will not pickup noise, after 1 minute of so, the unit goes into rainbow mode. This is seen as a colorful set of bars changing colors. IF this is working then you know that the software is running and the driving of the leds works fine!3. no leds turn on ever! check your connections to the ledstrip. Is is wired correctly?4. When you remove the msgeq7 Ic's from their socket, you can apply a voltage to pin 3 of the socket, depending on this voltage( 0-3 V) , you should see 7 bars increasing in numbers of leds that turn on, related to the voltage. You can test this for both the MSGEQ7 Ic's. If the leds turn on then you problem is with the MSQEQ7 or the preamp. You can leavy out the preamp and connect your audio directly to the center pin of the jumper, bypassing the preamp... stil no succes?5. Did you hook up the potmeters on the J2 pcb? there is one important for a good function and that is the sensitivity potmeter.7. Is the frequency board working? You should see a clock signal on pin 8 of the MSGEQ7?6. Most likely, if everything checks out but it is still not working, the MSGEQ7 is the problem. There are many fakes out there, specially china import....dont trust the MSGEQ7 from Alieexpress. Even my local supplier get me non working ones.....in the end I ordered them at Mouser. Mouser sells directly from sparkfun who is the manufacturer these days...You can check the function of this IC. If is has a clock and an audio input and a strobe, you should see the output changing all the time. It kinda looks like stairs but the steps are always changing.

Hi Cyril,1. You are right....if you use full brightness and with all leds on...that might be a thing.. However, in the software I limited the max brightness so the current will be limited. A switch mode power supply that can handle 5A and maybe a highner piek current should workIts a pass trough...and yes i placed it inside the base. You can see it in the video2. the audo plug , i used tulp plugs ( standard audi plug) for the line in.3. microphone is a condense mic, basically , yes it is simular to arduino mic but without pcb...just the mic only

Yes, That order is in my car...will mail it tonight

Yes, your not the only one pointing that out to me..I need to update the partlist... Regarding Rv1 and Rv2 Actually, those are not so critical approx 100K for RV1 and500K for Rv2. Both are used to set the amplification of the opamps.... You canuse any value that is approx the same. As for D1 a universal diode like 1n4001 will do, however, you can leave it out entirely. I put it there as a quick and dirty way of protecting my semiconducters in case i accedently connect the power supply reversed. In my next revision, that will be changed to a proper protection circuit. Also C14 and C15 have no function as I forgot to take them out of the design....but with or without them the pcb will work

O but there is, look at the schematic for details...the pcb is dual layer... ;-)The lm358 is amplifier...indeed

https://www.instructables.com/How-to-make-a-Dreamcatcher-2/

No no, the one hand rule does apply. Because you can touch the output of the coil with one hand while the other hand is touching a ground like for example your heater or some metal pipe/rod... that wat it can run trough your heart. The danger of this circuit is that the output is directly connected to one wire of your outlet. In some countries the wiring is not set by law. Meaning fase and neural can be swopped.

Thank you

Thanks!