Modifying a Surface Gauge f...View Instructable »
Excellent question! To dye stabilized wood, you actually mix the coloring into the stabilizing resin before moving on to stabilizing the wood. The resin carries in the dye as it does its job, so you wouldnt need to add extra steps.You can put another finish on stabilized wood, though personally i dont see the need for my uses. The stabilization process is enough of a finish for the knife handles the wood is destined for, a coat of paste wax to shine everything up is all i ever do. Id avoid finishes that are more prone to adhesion problems, like polyurethane, but thats just personal preference
There are some limits to what you can stabilize, but the list of what you can is pretty extensive. I personally have tried nearly any species of wood that I can get my hands on that isn't already high in natural oils, and I've heard of people using the process on stranger things like corcpn cobs, paper, leather, think I saw one guy do a pinecone once, don't ask me why.
Resin Stabilizing WoodView Instructable »
hey, that looks pretty good! Glad I could be of service, it really is a handy layout tool. I use mine all the time for things like tennons, and leatherwork
Making a Woodworking Markin...View Instructable »
Sorry, that should read "doesn't require buying extra materials than what's listed". Kydex is usually sold in 8x12 sheets, so the price for the kydex would be the same on a longer blade. Ditto with the eyelets
1) Probably. Moving up to a 10 inch blade doesn't really require extra materials, just a little extra work2) Sitting on it would work, if you had 10 or 15 minutes to kill. Takes some time for the kydex to cool, the foam is a good insulator. Pushing it down or squeezing it likely wouldnt work, it takes some force. Book could work, if you have a lot of them. Really though, I recommend clamps. If you don't have any, Harbor Freight is an excellent source, 3 inch C clamps are only a few bucks and are extremely useful
Anytime, always happy to help!
Oh, i didnt think you were, not in the least, and it didnt come across that way at all. I was more agreeing with your taste in blades. I appreciate the compliments though!
Ill be honest, its not my first choice in blade style either, but sometimes its fun to step out of the comfort zone. Plus, it was just fun to make!
Hope those do it for ya! I cant claim credit for the design, that all goes to John Heiz at ibuildit.ca. Hes got the plans for sale, and if you cant make an all-metal grinder for whatever reason, this is a serviceable alternative for sure.I did tweak a few things on mine. Ive got access to a lathe, so i made the idler wheels for the platen attachment from some 6061 aluminium instead of mdf, and im using a metal platen instead of plywood as specified. Mdf does work fine for the idler wheels, the aluminium ones just run smoother, but after the plywood platen i tried first caught fire i decided metal was a better option. This ones 3/8" mild steel, eventually im going to make one from some D2, to cut down on wear
glad you enjoyed it mate! The way I see it, life's no fun if you take it too seriously. I've considered doing videos, but unfortunately my recording equipment (read that as phone) isn't up to par, maybe in the future though!
Making a Simple Kydex Knife...View Instructable »
That is an excellent question, though I'm not sure I can answer it. I've never had a Paracord wrap really wear out on me, it's durable stuff. Off the top of my head I'd give it at least a year before I'd worry about replacing it, but really my best answer is replace it when it needs replacing, I.e if it starts cracking or fraying
Glad you liked it mate!
Making a Cord-Wrapped Tacti...View Instructable »