farna6548

If you ever used cassette tape for storage you would definitely not want it now! It would simply be a nostalgic feature of little real use. I tried using tape on my first computer in 87, and I saved up and got a disk drive ASAP! Tape was better than nothing, but you better make multiple saves of anything important. SD cards are much better and a great choice. I had a Andy Color Computer 2. It had as reliable a tape system as any other home computer, better than some. The cassette port was used more for the motor on/off relay to control outside devices in a simple manner more than anything else.

Great job!Would be easy to scale up to regulation size, and easy to make a heavier base with legs for a more permanent table. What was your final cost? I know that varies with area, but just knowing what state (assuming US...) you're in will help. I started to build my own table a few years ago, but the costs of the parts was a bit high (bumpers and such). I ended up buying a used portable table ($100, but that was 10 years ago) then making a base for it to slip into, turning it into a permanent model, but made it in such away that I could pull the original portable out without much effort if needed later (or for repairs). Still using the table! Like most, it got a good bit of use for 2-3 years, then declined... hardly used now.

Looks great! I started to say something about the shelf since it has an offset that made it harder, but I looked at the pics again and see why -- the height of the subwoofer box. Only thing you could have done was to make the cabinet 3" or so higher so the subwoofer fit on the upper shelf... or get shorter equipment! You did a great job of modifying the shelf so everything fit just right.

I agree with MarkP47. While it wouldn't have hurt to put a statement in like "check your local building codes to see if a permit is required", that should be understood. The big deal I see is the concrete floor. In many areas in the US it's not considered a temporary building if it is built in a way that it can't be moved. Conrete floor or a large size would do it. In most places you can buy ready made sheds that are truck or trailer transportable. While they aren't really easy to move, they are considered "non-permanent" since they CAN be moved. For those you don't need a permit in most areas of the US, even if you build it yourself, but you may run into HOA restrictions -- so check those rules too. Too many rules to actually mention in the article, especially since I…

I agree with MarkP47. While it wouldn't have hurt to put a statement in like "check your local building codes to see if a permit is required", that should be understood. The big deal I see is the concrete floor. In many areas in the US it's not considered a temporary building if it is built in a way that it can't be moved. Conrete floor or a large size would do it. In most places you can buy ready made sheds that are truck or trailer transportable. While they aren't really easy to move, they are considered "non-permanent" since they CAN be moved. For those you don't need a permit in most areas of the US, even if you build it yourself, but you may run into HOA restrictions -- so check those rules too. Too many rules to actually mention in the article, especially since Instructables is International!!

Reminds me of plastic grocery bag "recyclers"/dispensers. Stuff used bags in top, pull them out the bottom when needed. We have a cloth one, just a 18" tube with elastic around each end to mostly close it, leaving an opening about 1/2 the diameter, hanging on the pantry door knob now. I've had plastic wall mount ones. Either would work as a sock dispenser also. The only thing I don't like about yours is that the "get socks" opening is on the ground, unless you put it on a dresser or short table. But it looks good sitting on the floor!

Should have been worded as "diesel is not easily exploded"? Diesel engines work under a LOT of compression in order to combust diesel fuel (14:1 - 25:1). Diesel fumes aren't highly explosive like gasoline fumes. Military vehicles use diesel as it is doesn't typically explode if the tanks are hit by an incendiary shell or if leaks occur. It will burn under the right conditions, but won't explode or ignite easily.

Since you're using a "learning" technique it seems that this would work best with the person that "taught" it... and may not recognize other voices well at all. Not necessarily a bad thing -- sort of a "voice lock" as well. Only bad if you want it to be easily used by anyone. And I may be wrong about it not recognizing other voices... I do recall my brother-in-law having trouble with his first iPhone and Siri understanding his southern accent (which isn't as strong as mine!). It improved with use though, something your simpler system won't do. Using a specific vocabulary to add voice control to something is an ideal use for what you've done here! I applaud your efforts and very well written explanations of your procedures - well done!!

Centrifugal clutches are common for small engine bikes (what we call "mini bikes") and carts in the US. Would be easy to use one of those... at least over here! That engine is really what makes it so cool looking. The only common and cheap in the US is a Briggs & Stratton flat-head, usually around 5 hp -- or similar Tecumseh. I guess some of the OHV B&S and even Honda small side shaft engines are becoming available now, but nothing as cool vintage looking as that Bernard! First thing I did when seeing it was look at your profile to see where you were from (the Netherlands), as I'd never saw one like it!

You need some more padding/support around your heel. Something like this, only you might need larger for boots: https://www.amazon.com/Premium-Leather-Cushions-In... I couldn't find anything larger with a quick search. Heel "cups" might help...

Have you considered hand stitching the soles on instead of nails? Stainless steel wire or a heavy nylon thread should work well, but punching or drilling all those holes would be more tedious. I just wonder if it might not be more durable than clinched nails.

Very nice saw! I have a cheap Craftsman band saw. As you stated -- leaves some to be desired. It only uses thin blades. The only issue I really have with it is that if you need to pull the wood piece back slightly while cutting the blade pulls off the wheel. You have to keep forward pressure on it. I've considered adding a nylon, plastic, or wood wheel to the cutting side of the blade. Do you have the same issue?

Would be good for use in a camper. The CO2/LPG monitors they sell are around $75 and have to be replaced every five years. Must have something to do with the LG monitoring.

Use a spar varnish or outdoor rated polyurethane to finish the wood, then use an outdoor fabric (like Sunbrella) for the cushions.

An electric saw is actually perfect. Electric motors produce 100% torque at start-up, whereas a gas engine has to build up rpm first. Much lighter and less noise also. The only drawbacks to an electric saw are dragging around a cord and you're limited to 1750 watts (2.4 hp). That's why you won't find anything more than an 18" bar electric saw, and most are 16". A 50cc two stroke chainsaw engine is ~3 hp. Only specs I could find were for a Husqvarna 450 with a 50.2cc engine, 3.2 hp, 20" bar.

I was thinking the same thing, but the two handles are separate pieces from the rest of the cart. If you need them longer (or shorter) because of your height, just make them to fit you.

A "Ford Pod" or "Chevy Pod" would be bigger. Front fenders from a 30s Ford or Chevy would be hard to find, but the REAR fenders from a 50s to early 60s stepside PICKUP would be relatively easy. No built-in headlight, but that just takes adding a headlight bucket and trim ring from an assortment of 50s cars/trucks. Might have to narrow those fenders, but length would be good...

Hmmm... using a push button phone should even be easier. Would be interesting in an old pay phone too! I'm thinking this might be a better idea than continuing to pay for the "hard" phone line my wife insists on keeping. Need to see what a second basic line would be for my cell service... no data needed...

Specifically, in English the Cardan (or Kardan) is the name of the inventor of what we call a drive shaft with at least one cross type "universal joint" for transmitting motion. The cross type joint is usually credited to Englishman Robert Hooke, but Girolamo Cardano preceeded him (Hooke died in 1703, Cardano 1576). Hooke reportedly often took credit for inventions that went through the Royal Society, where he was tasked to prove some of them. I've often heard of the back to back cross u-joint constant velocity joint referred to as a "double Cardan" CV joint. Didn't know about a "Hooke joint" until digging for this info.

Sometimes called a test plug, used to plug openings so the piping can be pressure tested with air (or water).

PVC glue. In this case, you could probably use any household cement that is water proof and will glue plastic (NOT white glue). Gorilla glue would be fine. No pressure on the water, so it doesn't need to hold much, mainly not leak.