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Centrifugal clutches are common for small engine bikes (what we call "mini bikes") and carts in the US. Would be easy to use one of those... at least over here! That engine is really what makes it so cool looking. The only common and cheap in the US is a Briggs & Stratton flat-head, usually around 5 hp -- or similar Tecumseh. I guess some of the OHV B&S and even Honda small side shaft engines are becoming available now, but nothing as cool vintage looking as that Bernard! First thing I did when seeing it was look at your profile to see where you were from (the Netherlands), as I'd never saw one like it!
You need some more padding/support around your heel. Something like this, only you might need larger for boots: https://www.amazon.com/Premium-Leather-Cushions-In... I couldn't find anything larger with a quick search. Heel "cups" might help...
Have you considered hand stitching the soles on instead of nails? Stainless steel wire or a heavy nylon thread should work well, but punching or drilling all those holes would be more tedious. I just wonder if it might not be more durable than clinched nails.
Very nice saw! I have a cheap Craftsman band saw. As you stated -- leaves some to be desired. It only uses thin blades. The only issue I really have with it is that if you need to pull the wood piece back slightly while cutting the blade pulls off the wheel. You have to keep forward pressure on it. I've considered adding a nylon, plastic, or wood wheel to the cutting side of the blade. Do you have the same issue?
Would be good for use in a camper. The CO2/LPG monitors they sell are around $75 and have to be replaced every five years. Must have something to do with the LG monitoring.
Use a spar varnish or outdoor rated polyurethane to finish the wood, then use an outdoor fabric (like Sunbrella) for the cushions.
An electric saw is actually perfect. Electric motors produce 100% torque at start-up, whereas a gas engine has to build up rpm first. Much lighter and less noise also. The only drawbacks to an electric saw are dragging around a cord and you're limited to 1750 watts (2.4 hp). That's why you won't find anything more than an 18" bar electric saw, and most are 16". A 50cc two stroke chainsaw engine is ~3 hp. Only specs I could find were for a Husqvarna 450 with a 50.2cc engine, 3.2 hp, 20" bar.
I was thinking the same thing, but the two handles are separate pieces from the rest of the cart. If you need them longer (or shorter) because of your height, just make them to fit you.
A "Ford Pod" or "Chevy Pod" would be bigger. Front fenders from a 30s Ford or Chevy would be hard to find, but the REAR fenders from a 50s to early 60s stepside PICKUP would be relatively easy. No built-in headlight, but that just takes adding a headlight bucket and trim ring from an assortment of 50s cars/trucks. Might have to narrow those fenders, but length would be good...
Hmmm... using a push button phone should even be easier. Would be interesting in an old pay phone too! I'm thinking this might be a better idea than continuing to pay for the "hard" phone line my wife insists on keeping. Need to see what a second basic line would be for my cell service... no data needed...
Specifically, in English the Cardan (or Kardan) is the name of the inventor of what we call a drive shaft with at least one cross type "universal joint" for transmitting motion. The cross type joint is usually credited to Englishman Robert Hooke, but Girolamo Cardano preceeded him (Hooke died in 1703, Cardano 1576). Hooke reportedly often took credit for inventions that went through the Royal Society, where he was tasked to prove some of them. I've often heard of the back to back cross u-joint constant velocity joint referred to as a "double Cardan" CV joint. Didn't know about a "Hooke joint" until digging for this info.
PVC glue. In this case, you could probably use any household cement that is water proof and will glue plastic (NOT white glue). Gorilla glue would be fine. No pressure on the water, so it doesn't need to hold much, mainly not leak.
Sometimes called a test plug, used to plug openings so the piping can be pressure tested with air (or water).